Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Rough Running With Low Power And Flashing Engine Light - Cylinder Sparks
Apr 29, 2013
I have a 2001 elantra 2.0 gls. It is running rough with low power and flashing engine light. It may have a bad 02 sensor but when checked for spark only the 2 and 3 cylinders were sparking. I can confirm this because when I unplugged the 1 and 4 spark plugs it made no difference in the way it was running. Next I tested the resistance on the coil packs. Both were an even 1.5 ohms. How can it be that the coil packs are good yet the plugs aren't firing? I also have moved plug wires around and have had no success.
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2001 hyundai Elantra 97000 mi. perfect on Thurs. Engine light flicker, sulfur smell, rough running, low power on Friday
First thought / hope, Bad gas? Had Filled up on Weds.... I added dry gas and FI Cleaner.
Second thought / fear Cat. Converter
Third . .. . ???
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I started the car the other day and it was running really rough and engine light was on. I started pulling the spark plug wires and pulling #3 didn't make any difference in terms of decreasing performance where the others all did.
I've replaced the plug, and distributor cap. I've also confirmed with the plug out of the block that it is firing.
I'm not sure at this point what to look at next. This happened overnight, not gradually over time, and apart from running rough the engine isn't making any noises which based on sound, and how fast it happened doesn't make me think its a scoring/compression issue.
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Ok on the way the my 1997 f150 4.6 L 180,000 check engine light started flashing and running rough and then the light went off, Also we took the Aftermarket Dynomax muffler off of it earlier today if that makes any difference, it still has the Cat Converter, New Plugs and Napa Wires.....
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Got an 07 Screw with only 50,000 miles. Yesterday, wife drove it home from work and said it would only do 45mph and didn't sound good. No warning lights were on, she said. I test drove it in the evening and it ran totally fine. Today, she drives it to work and said it ran real rough and "Check Engine" light was on. I picked it up from her work and it idles very rough and slow, and once you hit about 2000 rpm, it runs decent, maybe even normal. Below that, it stumbles and engine doesn't sound right. "Check Engine" light is either ON steady, or flashing. I don't have a code reader, so its likely going to the Ford Dealer Monday. Is there any way to read the code without a reader?
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2005 F-150 4.6L 2WD, 268,000 miles....
Recently I got a flashing 'Check Engine' light and a rough running engine (along with a tapping noise) when I was passing someone (and pulling a trailer). I retrieved codes 300, 304, & 305. I can't swear to it, but I think the tapping noise started at the same time as the coil problem.
I replaced coils #4 & #5 (later that same day) and the engine smoothed back out but the tapping noise is still hanging around. The noise speeds up at higher RPM's and doesn't go away if I shift into neutral. Oil level and pressure are fine and I only use Motorcraft 5W-20 and Motorcraft filters (and change the oil every 5K miles).
Not sure if this is relevant: I think I have bad valve guide seals (blue smoke after long idles) but no other problems that I am aware of. It sort of sounds like a lifter, but is there a good way to pin it down? Is it possible that this tapping is related to the bad coils?
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I have a 2003 ranger and have had ongoing problems with misfire cylinder six and have had three different mechanics diagnose the problem as a bad ground. I have replaced all plugs, wires, coil pack, injectors and am constantly pulling the plug on cylinder six, cleaning and often replacing, I also disconnect the battery so it resets the check engine light and it runs fine for about 100 miles and starts running rough again and on goes the check engine light. I have 134000 miles and have maintained it since new.....
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So I did a cylinder contribution test and a buzz test today. It buzzed evenly on all cylinders. Then when I did the cylinder contribution test I got these codes,
P0269 cylinder 4 contribution balance
P0284 cylinder 8 contribution balance
It has been running a little rough lately but not smoking. Seems to be chattering more than it was too. I did the FRx, HPx, CVDs and banjo bolt mods about 500 miles ago and it was a lot quieter and ran better. Just recently started running rough and a little louder. Could these injectors be bad? I did new injector O-rings about 800 miles ago. I ran the test with the engine cold and with it warmed up and got the codes both times. It seems to have a little bit of throttle flutter when holding it about half throttle while driving.
As far as I know the injectors haven't been replaced and they have 186K miles on them.
2001 F-350 Lariat Dually Supercab 6-spd manual 7.3 Powerstroke Turbo Diesel 186,000 miles....
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I have a 2002 Elantra with 123k on it. It has been having issues with poor acceleration, rough idle, surging, and the car just overall shakes sometimes when driving. The check engine light started flashing on and off periodically today, so I coded and it and it gave me P0303, which is a cylinder 3 misfire. I checked the spark plugs, and the cylinder 3 spark plug was pretty bad, so I went ahead and replaced all 4. The wires were in mint condition, so no issues there. I also put fuel injector cleaner in just for good measure. When I went to test the car, startup and acceleration/reverse were better, but the other symptoms still persist. What I should check next???
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As the title says I have plugged a code reader in and it says "cyclinder three misfire". So I pulled the plugs and good god they were nasty. Some having a gap of 80-90 thousandths of an inch. So I figured the plugs were the source of the problem, thus I replaced them but to my dimise the check engine light is still on, and still reading the same ol' "cyclinder three misfire". I have put 350 miles on it in 24 hours of changing it to allow for proper time of the circuit cycling for the light to change but not sure if it takes longer...?
I also went ahead and checked the plug wires resistance when I had the plugs pulled and they ranged from 1.5-2.5k ohms shortest to longest (cylinder 4-1). And if your curious the magic cylinder three was around 2k ohms for however long that wire is, my guess would be 18 inches. Would this be out of tolerance, I know the norm is 10k ohm for every 12 inches or so...?
My next guess would be replacing the power pack or I guess you car guys call it the "ignition coil"...? I will say that the car does run much smoother after replacing the plugs.
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In the last month, my car has had an awful time starting on 2 different occasions. The first time it ran really rough for about 1 minute then was ok. The second time was the same but the engine light came on. Took it to an out of town dealer and he said it showed a misfire code but could never find anything else and all looked OK. Spark plugs?
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This issue has only happened twice to me.
I go out to start the car, it cranks and cranks and cranks. I stop turning the key. I then try again and it hesitates to starts. I give it a little gas and it starts. When it does this, the car begins running very rough and idling rough. When I give it a little gas while it's parked, the check engine light begins flashing at me.
I turned the car off and came back to it the next morning (maybe 10 hours apart). It started right up no problem, no CEL either.
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I have a 2004 SF/2.4 I4. When the car warms up, the ignition coil sparks between the rubber boot and the coil itself, drawing the spark from the plug and resulting in a misfire. This is especially apparent when the A/C is running and the car is idle-ing, resulting in the A/C turning off and a rough jumping idle. Once the car is running this is not noticeable and the A/C turns on.
I have changed the spark plugs to new autolite plugs, and the situation disappeared for a day, but now it is back. I ordered OEM NGK Laser Iridium plugs, I hope they will fix the situation. Why would the A/C matter? Next on the list will be the ignition coil and wire change, but I hope to avoid that.
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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I have a 2001 Elantra with 170K miles. well taken care of. I've been having a rough idle issue for some time now. The car idles very rough. I checked for codes and I got the cylinder 2 misfire code (P0302)...
I started out and replaced the plugs and wires, no solution...
I replaced the coil packs, no solution...
I replaced the MAP sensor, no solution...
I figured it may be no to low compression, so I did a compression test and all cylinders came back normal, still no solution...
I figured it might be a dirty injector, so I poured some seafoam in the gas tank, and no solution...
So my next step is to switch out the injector. Is there anything I am overlooking?
Here's the big thing that is happening too... Everytime I fill up the gas tank, I turn the car on and it idles even rougher. Like if you talk while sitting in the car, you sound like Chevy Chase when he is on the vibrating bed with Beverly D'Angelo in the movie vacation! LOL. It slowly goes away after 10-15 minutes of driving. All this rough running engine ONLY happens at idle, otherwise it runs very smoothly.
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I just purchased my first foreign car ever. it is a 2002 Elantra it idles very rough changed plugs using NGK and wires new fuel filter and ran 2 full tanks of high grade fuel with STP fuel injector cleaner. but had no effect on idle also have no check or service engine light. What to check next?
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I'm having an issue with a 2008 Passat 2.0T. Engine ran rough one day and check engine light came on! I get the VagCom out, scan the ECU and get misfire on cylinder #2 and #4. Car has 109 000km. Plugs were never changed so I order some new OE Bosch platinum iridium plugs. Go for test drive after having change the plugs and I still get misfire on both cylinder number 2 and 4.
I know coil on plug are prone to be weak on those engines so I go ahead and order 4 new coils which are pretty low cost which is good. Once install on the car I go again on a test drive. car ran really smooth and no check engine light came on. I said fine! I fixed the problem only to discover the day after that the CEL decide to come back on I scan again and this time only get misfire on cyl #2 with fault frequency of 39.
I suspect my injector to be bad but before I decide to remove the intake manifold and spend another 2-300$ in parts. Any way to test my injector with VagCom in order to see if that really is my problem. Also heard the PCV could be a problem but i hardly doubt it would throw a fauly code on just one cylinder.
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We have a 2005 Prius with 77,400 miles on it. My wife came home from a short trip yesterday saying the engine was shaking the car and the CEL was flashing. About 4 months ago we also had the CEL come on but not flash and it ran a bit rough but not as bad as it is now. I was told by our local dealer that a flashing light is worse than if the light comes on and stays on. When this happened 4 months ago at 74,000 miles the dealer said they downloaded codes P300, 303, and 304 and that I needed to replace all 4 fuel injectors.
I realize that 300 is a general misfire code and 303 is a misfire code for cylinder 3 and 304 is for cylinder 4. After reading some advice on here 4 months ago, I cleaned my MAF sensor, ran some fuel injector cleaner through a tank of fuel, replaced all 4 spark plugs, and started buying Chevron gas. The CEL stayed off and our mileage went back to normal. I thought I had solved the problem but now this after 3000+ miles. I checked all the ingitors, connections, spark plugs, and wires yesterday and all seem to be in good condition. Maybe they were right and the fuel injectors are going bad. I am at a loss as what else to do other than take it back to the dealer now and plan do that this afternoon.
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Friend of mine has a 2001 Elantra, not sure of the mileage but it started running really rough, like it's on 3 cylinders. His mech wants to look at the head, thinks there's a broken spring or something.
I asked if the timing belts ever been changed, no it hasn't. My suggestion is it might have lost a few teeth from the belt and jumped. I can't see it being a broken valve spring or something worse because the beta engine are tough as nails.
He said the wires are fine, they probably need replacing too because my friend is the type of person who changes oil and that's it.
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Okay so last year i bought a 2000 celica gt manual with 50,000 miles, and currently has 67,000 miles. A few days ago I started to notice the engine was running rough and then about 10 miles later the chack engine light came on. I promptly went to the auto parts store to read the code. I was informed I have a cylinder 1 misfire. Naturally i replaced the spark plugs with NGK iridium, reset and rechecked engine code. Same code. Next i swapped the coils from 1 and 2, reset and rechecked. same code. I then swapped fuel injectors from 1 and 3, rest and rechecked. Same code. So now i am a bit stumped.
Only faulty equipment prior to this incident would be 2nd gear synchronizer. Only applicable above 5,800 RPM.
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Well it finally happened, a couple of weeks ago I was headed to an MX race and my check engine light came on and it started running rough. Long story short a piece of an exhaust valve broke off and went out through the head. Dealer has been great even though I was 300 miles from home and they did get me a rental(small POS SUV). Truck was supposed to be finished this week, but now they are saying the head gasket is on back order and they probably won't have one until the middle of April......... I can't be without my truck that long, but not much I can do. By the way truck is completely stock with just under 20K on it, and I have never had any issues with any of my Ford trucks or Ford diesels, even my old 6.0.
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