When I try to start my wife's '06, it takes a little bit longer to start than in the past (used to take only 2 turns or so, now it takes 3 or 4). When it does finally ignite, it's a rough ignition and then it goes to normal. Why this is happening?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Elantra GT, and for the past year it sometimes makes no attempt to start when the ignition key is turned. All the dashboard lights, radio, bells and whistles are fine, but once the key is turned to start nothing happens. There are no clicks or anything. Some dashboard lights stay on and I can hear the initial whirring under the hood from the electrical system.
I've replaced the battery, ignition wires, and plugs. This will happen very erratically. Then all of a sudden it will fire up like nothing was wrong. This is always over a several minute time span of trying and retrying to start. I took it to a mechanic but we can never replicate the problem while there.
My coworker is giving me a clean 2001 Santa Fe with 151000 miles. It was running fine then all of the sudden it lost power but was able to stutter home. I went to check it out it started fine but idled a little rough. When I revved the engine it rose to about 2500rpm and stuttered then stalled. Kind of like it was rich and choking out. It then had difficulty restarting.
View 10 Replies2003 elentra. yesterday my friend went to start her car and it wouldn't start. she said it sounded like a baseball card in bike spokes. later that night they tried it again and gave it gas while starting it. it started right up. the car runs fine after they get it started. the check engine light isn't on. and there is increase scent of gas while driving it.
View 3 RepliesI've got a 2006 Elantra with 102,xxx miles. When starting the car, especially a cold start, it ignition is rough, sometimes a jolt. It runs fine after that. What might be the issue? FYI, i replaced the spark plugs in August or so.
View 4 RepliesMy GF has a 2002 Elantra, and recently, she's had a remote start kit put in her car. Previously, though, we were moving something in/out of her car and broke the shift knob and the rod became bent, so we had to bend the rod back to be able to put the car back into park. (The car is an auto).
Recently, she's had a couple rough/no starts from her car. There have been a few times where she would come over to my house and the car would not restart soon after she turns off the ignition. However, the car will start rough about 3 hours later and run perfectly fine once it cranks. This doesn't happen often, but enough to be troublesome.
The problem with this though is the fact that sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't, and it runs PERFECTLY fine. The lights are not dimming, the battery is not dying, the car has not required to be jumped. While having these problems we drove the car around for about 5-6 hours and it was perfectly fine. Her dad thinks it's the alternator, but the battery hasn't been losing any charge and the battery hasn't been dying. There has been one time where her father moved the shifter up and down and put it back into park and the car started just fine. Could this be related to the shifter, and how the car isn't reading that's it's fully in park to relay ignition? Her dad said he tested the alternator and it was "bad," but like I said, if the alternator was bad, her battery would be losing charge, and that is definitely not the case.
I had a rough idle and now car wont start. 2002 elantra, 4 cylinder. replaced tps, replaced fuel filer, cleaned IAC. I can hear fuel pump car wont stay running...
View 22 RepliesSo I recently bought a Hyundai Elantra Gt 2003 that I totally love. But ever since I bought it, it struggles to turn on. It makes a cranking noise before it turns on, and it takes about 2 to 3 times for it to fully turn on. I changed the crank shaft sensor and the fuel pump. What can it be?
View 1 RepliesEvery time i stop for gas..my 01 santa fe is hard to start..it would take 4 to 5 start before she goes, then i have to keep the rpm up, bring her to idle..after that shes ok, till the next fill up.. the only way around this is to keep her running while gassing up..while filling up she run rough idle, some time engine shuts off..then its hard to start..
View 5 RepliesI am trying to fix the pesky hard start that I have. My car doesn't start right up anymore unless it is frozen cold. Other than that it takes 2-3 cranks sometimes 4 to turn over. That's annoying and embarrassing and I am trying to remedy it ASAP.
I have a check valve and Purge valve on hand right now. In my research it seems this is where I need to focus. I do have an engine code it was P0456 this time. I also have a gas cap.
I have a check valve because of the all too familiar cutting off early at fuel pump problem. I wanted to start there first since I am sure something needs repairing down by the fuel tank and since the problem is common. And hopefully the valve will work with the fill up and MAYBE with the start, if not that is where the purge valve comes in.
I got as far as get the 2 12mm bolts off and then couldn't make it any further.
I just recently had a new (used) gas tank and new fuel lines (front to rear) put on the car.
On the first fill-up, I pulled out from the gas station, drove 20 seconds to the next red light. The car stalled (automatic transmission) when I came to a stop. It was hard to start and hard to keep going, and had intermittent periods of extreme power loss when I drove it down the highway.
Took it back to the shop, there was an engine code for the O2 Sensor, so the O2 was replaced, but made no difference. They checked fuel pressure and the catalytic converter, both were fine. They wanted me to keep driving it until another code came up.
As the tank neared empty, the car started driving almost perfectly. Filled it up again, and the problems started all over again. I have tried driving it with the gas cap off to make sure air can get in to replace the gas, but made no difference.
I changed the spark plugs, and all 4 of the old ones were covered in black carbon from the fuel running too rich (i assume).
Also, when the car is idling and it starts struggling, the exhaust does smell extremely strongly and is grey.
Now, engine code [P1166 O2S Controller Adaption Diagnosis Malfunction (bank 1)] is appearing (I have to check with the garage monday to see if it is the same code they had earlier).
I'm not sure why a new tank would cause this, unless somehow dirt/rust ended up where it didn't belong during the changeover.
2001 Ranger Edge 3.0. Like the title says, when I start my ranger it idles really rough. If I give it gas it shudders like it's gonna die. After about 2-3 minutes it smooths out. If I'm on the interstate and down shift to pass someone, while accelerating it feels like I have a misfire (no CEL given) not all the time though. I've changed plugs and wires and it stopped doing it so I thought I had it but, it continued a few days later. Then I changed the fuel filter and it stopped again for a few days. Well it's back again. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump but I wanted to check here before I take my truck bed off. I also checked for vac leaks and I'm all good there.
View 1 Replies01 Elantra, once warmed up to running temp starts to run like a pig & wont idle, has new plugs/leads.
Funny thing is there is no engine check light, in fact it doesn't even come on for the 6 seconds when the ignition is first turned on at all.
Secondly I have OBD2/ELM327 with scanpro but it doesn't connect to the ECU.
We put it into a shop & they claim they were able to connect to ecu but gave no codes which I find a bit strange.
My 2002 Elantra GT has been turning off while driving. The radio, lights, and other accessories remain on. The car doesn't lurch but all of the dash lights come on like when you're first starting a car. I was able to restart the car after about 10 min the first time and 5 min the second time it happened. 1 week between episodes.
Brought it to the garage and they couldn't find a problem while letting it run for 30 min. Also, there are no error codes. What could be wrong?
Just started having issues with my door chimes this morning.
Hopped in, started up, and now the door chime will not go until I take the key out of ignition. All doors are shut, seatbelt fastened. No lights on dash, no open doors.
Engine runs very erratically and I got ignition failure codes on all cylinders plus mixture too lean code. 2 years ago I changed the gadget that sticks right into the middle of the engine and regulates the mixture and the issue disappeared. bought the part from rockauto. should I change sparks and ignition cables or order the same part again? Never changed the ignition cables and sparks.
View 12 RepliesMy main relay is chattering badly when my ignition is in the on position but not in the ACC position. All of my "dummy" lights are flashing with the chattering main relay. I have tried to replace both the Start and Main relay and I replaced the battery 3 weeks ago. I have checked the wiring and I do not see anywhere the wires could have been chewed by a mouse and everything appears to be connected. Checked all of the relays and fuses to make sure they were in tightly. Could this be the ignition?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 SF/2.4 I4. When the car warms up, the ignition coil sparks between the rubber boot and the coil itself, drawing the spark from the plug and resulting in a misfire. This is especially apparent when the A/C is running and the car is idle-ing, resulting in the A/C turning off and a rough jumping idle. Once the car is running this is not noticeable and the A/C turns on.
I have changed the spark plugs to new autolite plugs, and the situation disappeared for a day, but now it is back. I ordered OEM NGK Laser Iridium plugs, I hope they will fix the situation. Why would the A/C matter? Next on the list will be the ignition coil and wire change, but I hope to avoid that.
Drove to work today and all was fine. Came out at 3 and started my Elantra up, dropped it into gear and it was ROUGH. Engine ran for a few seconds before I put it in gear. The shifts up the street were hard and the downshifts were equally hard. I put the transmission in manual--same thing. After a few minutes, the shifts returned to normal. No CEL. The car has 48,700 miles on it.
View 10 RepliesMy 2004 Elantra is having electrical problems. I left the keys in the ignition one night, and now systems within the car do not work. The car no longer responds to remote controls (lock/unlock). The lights in the cabin do not work. The digital clock and radio displays are blank. The gauges are also reading incorrectly when I start the car (all of them move up and freeze for a few seconds at 4000 RPMs, 70 mph, Hot Engine, then come back down to correct readings).
The car starts fine, and I have checked all fuses. I tried letting the car run to charge the battery, and also tried a jump start from another car to recharge the battery.
Remember, this all started when I left the keys in the ignition over night
My girlfriend has a 2005 Accent and recently we went to go drive it and the battery was dead. I noticed that when we shut the car off the black LCD Odometer display was staying on the dash with the power shut off and no key in the ignition. I figured out which Fuse it was under the hood and pulled it. The odometer lcd turned off and we also lost all of the interior lights.. When I ran the car with the fuse pulled the Odometer LCD would display normally but somehow the battery is still managing to drain even with the Fuse pulled.. Any wiring diagrams for the fuse panel under the hood or if it could be a relay that is still drawing power when the car is shut off..
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