My elantra seems loose in the rear end when cornering on slightly rough bends just seems to want to skip the tyres are correct pressure have good tread and shocks don't seem to bounce to much.
View 2 RepliesMy 2006 Elantra is having a problem I think within the shifting box area. When the cars and park I have a 50-50 chance of the vehicle starting. This does not have anything to do with the break or the switch on the side of the shifter. The transmission while driving is fun and there is no slippage between the gears.
I've opened up the gearbox area and I found we're at the shifter hard into park forwards the car seems to start more consistently. The shifter seems to be very slightly loose. The little orange marks indicating the placement of the shift is not "aligned" with park. It's a bit off. However when I opened the gearbox and I push the cable on the right of the shifter forwards and turn the key, the car consistently starts. Now, I'm wondering if this problem with the cable or maybe a switch in the front? Parts to replace?
As I've been doing work on the rear struts I noticed drag on the rear wheels when the car is jacked up. It's definitely the brakes. At first I dismissed it thinking it was the rotor going out of alignment when the tension from the wheel lug nuts is released (I don't have the retaining screws on the rotor). I can turn the wheels by hand but there is definite resistance.
However, yesterday I asked someone to listen to the rear wheels while the engine was off and the car was moving slowly. They could hear the sound of pads against the rotors. There is no smell nor do I notice any extra heat.
The caliper pistons move very easily and I'm fairly confident they're not stuck. The rotors and pads are in great shape. So I'm assuming it's an issue with the parking brake cable. But, I don't even know where to start. The parking brake seems to work fine otherwise.
I have a 14 GT base with manual and I've been noticing at idle (sitting at stop lights...foot on or off brake and or clutch...in or out of gear) it has a bit of a rough idle or stumble during the first mile or two...then its fine. It doesn't feel like it will stall and if I tap the gas I do not notice any difference in throttle response. RPM needle stays steady... is the just something that is normal? It doesn't bother me a lot... just noticeable. All that aside, except the occasional lifter noise at cold start (not always...which is odd) all is good.
View 6 RepliesMy 2011 Elantra has a slightly rough idle at stop lights. It doesn't happen ever time, and some people probably wouldn't even notice it, but at every few/several stops it idles a bit rough. When I recently had it in to Hyundai service for the ECM update, I asked them to take a look at it. Of course, they couldn't replicate it at the time, so they couldn't do anything to address it directly. The service manager asked if it happens when the A/C is on or off. While I didn't know the answer at the time, it seems to happen with it both on or off. He did say that the ECM update may address/fix the issue, but unfortunately it didn't. While it's not a big problem, it's a minor annoyance I'd like to get fixed (as I need to enjoy my ride at all times.
View 220 RepliesI was cleaning my car today and when i rolled the rear windows down to wipe the top of them i noticed i could shift them horizontally with ease. I double checked with the front windows and they are sturdy. I was using rain-x wipes when the window moved. It's both of the rears. Is this a problem or is it a "self adjusting" feature?
View 13 RepliesI have an issue with a slightly rough sounding engine and some white smoke on start up. It disappears very quickly. I have been told it may be glow plugs or an idle actuator thingy, how do i check which one it is. How can you tell if a glow plug is working or not. I have a 2006 Santa Fe 2.0 with 58000 on the clock.
View 2 Replieswhy would my axle nut come loose? not once but twice. I had a funny road feel so I put it up and found the front right to be loose.... surprised and bewildered I pulled the cotter pin and retorqued the axle nut... Tightened right up. no more loose. Now a month later I get the same road wander and sure enough it is loose again.... I have already replaced the bearing about 15000 ago and there is no noise from the bearing. The assembly design pretty much locks the hub to the axle with no play in it at all.... Is it possible that I am pulling the axle apart through the outer knuckle?
View 3 Replies1993 with 95,XXX miles. Driver's seat has developed a little looseness that allows it to rock just a little. Is there a reasonable fix?
View 3 Replies06 limited 98,3xx miles.
The front passenger door inside handle is loose, making it harder to open when pulling the handle.
My 2013 has developed a rattle. The rear window visor (outside) on passenger side is loose - or loosening up... and rattles a lot when driving, which is very annoying.... Took a quick look to see how this thing is held into place, not quite sure what's best way to take it apart...
View 1 Replies2001 GLS... Noticed the passenger front door window outer weather strip is loose at one end. Looks like a "tab" on the strip fits into a slot on the door panel. Since the tab is smaller that the slot, is there some kind of clip or something that holds the weatherstrip tab securely in the slot?
View 2 RepliesIt's the '99 Escort again, about 80K miles, now with the son and his bride in Chicago. He reports a clanking noise, maybe from the "rear axle" (a misnomer, I believe), when cornering at the high end of normal cornering speed (15 mph??). No noise at low speed. No info on if the noise is periodic or if it varies with speed (except on/off). No info if braking changes the noise. Lug nuts are tight (my not hopeful wild guess of a cause). I told him it's probably not DIY anyhow, and the car goes to a mechanic tomorrow. What we should expect to find (just to gain confidence in the diagnosis)?
View 9 RepliesI recently bought a 98 CE with about 80k miles for my commuter car. Overall I am very please with it but today I started hearing a metallic type chattering sound from the left side of the engine (looking from the front). Sounds to me like the timing chain is slightly loose and maybe the cause of the sound but when I search all the auto pats websites it doesn't show a timing chain tensioner. So do I have a belt or a chain? What the sound is? it doesn't do it continuously but it does seem to only start when the engine is warmed up and at idle. I did a compression test and all the cylinders are in the ballpark so Im hoping that's means my valves aren't taping.I cant imagine it would have lasted this long if the valves were taping (driven it about 500 miles so far).
View 14 RepliesI have a 92' Escort GT and the clutch started to act up, it's not burnt cause it is fairly new. The clutch pedal feels slightly looser when pushing it to the floor, the feeling like a cable snapped or something?
I'm pretty sure the clutch is a hydraulic one, not 100% .. Is there a hydraulic reservoir that somewhere that might be low?
I have 2005 elantra ve and I got rough idle stop for a while.
View 12 RepliesMy car is a 2002 Hyundai Elantra with an automatic transmission. It was bought with about 79k miles on it and currently has about 94k miles. Last week I began experiencing rough shifting between gears. My CEL had been on for a few months but I wasn't having any performance problems so I ignored it. When I started having shifting problems I went to autozone to have the codes scanned. All that came up was P0441. I cleaned the purge valve and cleared the code. The CEL stayed off.
I continued driving and having shifting problems. The car slipped out of gear when it wanted to upshift. The engine revs until I release the gas. Once the rpms drop low enough the next gear would engage. This seemed to happen for every gear shift except 1-2. For my first few trips no CEL.
Finally, yesterday on my way to work I got a CEL, and it was intermittent, similar to other issues I had read about. However, the more I drove the car, the worse this problem got. It would not stay in gear while cruising down the road. I tried changing gears manually, revving the engine up and letting it drop to idle, but nothing would work. Luckily the car got me to work but it was a real jerky ride. Towards the end it didn't even want to take off from a stop. And it wasn't in third, the engine just wasn't engaging the transmission. It's like the car was in neutral. But moving the gear shifter didn't seem to work.
The car did not make it home, however. When I started it after work, it went fine for about 2 blocks and then started slipping. Within a quarter mile I couldn't even go in first. Turning off the car and waiting a few minutes, then going again would gain me some distance, but the car would start slipping again almost right away. I was able to turn around and park the car in my work's parking lot.
The problem is I have no way to pull the DTC's now because the car can't make it very far. If it's something simple like the input/output speed sensors, I'll replace those in the parking lot. I'm a DIYer and hate paying others for what I can do myself, but I may need to bite the bullet on this one.
Friend of mine has a 2001 Elantra, not sure of the mileage but it started running really rough, like it's on 3 cylinders. His mech wants to look at the head, thinks there's a broken spring or something.
I asked if the timing belts ever been changed, no it hasn't. My suggestion is it might have lost a few teeth from the belt and jumped. I can't see it being a broken valve spring or something worse because the beta engine are tough as nails.
He said the wires are fine, they probably need replacing too because my friend is the type of person who changes oil and that's it.
Below is a link to a video showing what my 2003 Hyundai Elantra is doing. It is idling very rough (Jerks at idle) and can actually be heard in the exhaust. I think it may be miss firing?? Does not do it at speeds over 60. Under 60 it can be felt at times, but only at low RPMs. [URL] ....
View 16 RepliesWhen I try to start my wife's '06, it takes a little bit longer to start than in the past (used to take only 2 turns or so, now it takes 3 or 4). When it does finally ignite, it's a rough ignition and then it goes to normal. Why this is happening?
View 3 RepliesI have an '04 Elantra GLS with 274k on it. I've been caring for it myself with basic maintenance; that said, I changed the oil in it about 100 miles ago. Halfway through my drive home it started to idle rough under 1k rpm.
I've noticed a lot of other Hyundai's have the same issue. What would be/is the most COMMON cause of this? Timing belt? Basic tune up? I moved a state away from my local shop and I refuse to go to a Midas/Jiffy/ect.