Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Rapid RPM Fluctuations
Aug 8, 2013
The car would rev high to 3k rpms for around 3 seconds on start ups. After I did a timing belt job the car has been jumping 2k to 3.5k back down to 3k, etc sometimes settling at 1.5k. Each time it jumps it stays there for about three seconds. This mainly happens when I am stopped and foot off the throttle, but still does it when it drives, but it is not noticed as much since there is a load under the engine.
Couple of notes:
I made dam sure the timing was correct and belt teeth were installed properly, checked it about 10 times before buttoning everything up. Only thing I can think of is that the belt is too tight but I don't see that causing this problem.
I did clean the pcv valve and a few electrical connections which solved the problem short term, but has come back 3-4 weeks later.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with a 2.7 4wd. It has started fluctuating the rpm's and is shifting erratically. I have seen on here that it is possibly the TPS. Does the same in manual or auto.
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So this is a two-part question because that's the type of day that I'm having. 1st, I went out to start my car to find that it won't. The radio and lights come on, but it won't actually start, and makes a rapid, loud, clicking noise. I have a video of this however...
My boyfriend thought perhaps I need a jump start, so we were going to try that first but when we went to pull the latch inside the car to open the hood, we found that it doesn't work. So now we can't get the hood open.
So, I'd like to first know how I can get my hood open easily, and what may be going on with it not starting.
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When driving, if I let off on the gas, my 2016 Elantra kinda coasts for a second or 2 and then does a rapid deceleration or sometimes sudden acceleration and moves unevenly instead of coming to a smooth stop or slowly coasting at a constant speed. The car jerks just enough to feel like I'm braking a bit. Not smooth like it should be.
I have been using my Elantra 2016 since end of last year. It has mostly been like this since the last few months and lately it has increased. Also, lately my fuel economy hasn't been great as well. Why my Elantra has been behaving like this?
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My sister was driving my '02 Corolla (120K miles) this morning when the RPM's started to fluctuate between 1500-2500 for a few seconds. Did it on the highway (60 mph) and then again on a city street (45 MPH). Then back to normal. Had a tune up etc less than 2 months ago.
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My ScanGauge II is saying my Optima Yellow Top while in READY mode cruising down the highway is 13.4V. When I came to a stop and put the vehicle in park, it switched to 14.0V. Out of curiosity I put it in drive and it went back down to 13.4V.
Yesterday while driving on the highway for about 30 minutes it read 14V the entire trip. What's going on? Normal?
Yesterday I also had my battery tested directly on the battery at Advance Auto Parts with a computer battery tester certified for AGM batteries. It tested at 12.75V exactly, which is normal.
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Check engine and tcs light came on solid. Rough idling and rpm fluctuations while cruising. Brought it to toyota and they scanned it revealing a P2195 code: bank 1 air fuel sensor stuck lean. So what I'd like to know is; How long was the vehicle in the shop? What is involved in repairing this problem?
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I have a 2006 Sentra that over the last few months on a few occasions (3-4) when driving on the highway would jolt into the next gear.
Last week, the car simply died on me waiting at a light and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. The car did not start again for about a minute. It did. When I drove it home, the car accelerated slightly on its own into the driveway. I took it into the local Nissan dealer. They found no error codes of any kind. They recommended a whole bunch of things that more or less needed to get done anyways but the pertient one is that they flushed and refilled the transmission fluid and replaced the filter.
I'm pretty sure this isn't a transmission issue but... not ruling anything out. Hoping it is not a transmission issue.
So I took the car home. A week of local light driving with no issues. I got on the highway yesterday to go to a meeting and the RPMs start fluctuating wildly from 1500-3500. I got off the highway and the car stalled out on me three times on the 10 mile or so drive back to the dealership. It did start on those occassions right away.
They claim they've had multiple people test driving the car over the last couple of days and no one is experiencing what I did. Still no error codes anywhere.
I absolutely do not feel safe driving this thing on the highway at this point. What do I do? They seem to be at the end of their diagnostic capabilities and short of randomly repairing every single part on a ten year old car that might be causing this seems... silly.
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I have a 2015 PRIUS C for 3+ months now (used to drive a 2012 PRIUS) . Approx 3K+ miles traveled already to date. Anyway, I noticed on 2 occurrence that my MPG on the odometer view has had a huge reading fluctuation. Prior to the first occurrence, my Travel A was somewhere around 46MPG and it closely matched the Odometer view reading. Then I noticed it go down to 33MPG while Travel A is still at 46MPG, both had the same miles traveled. I let it go and when I checked my MPG on the Odometer last week, it was back to normal.
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I have a terrible car. Honda Civic 2002 that runs alright but quakes and shudders after I start it. It also revs up for no reason at all whilst I drive around. Anyway two machanics have told me I have a headgasket leak that will cost a lot of money to fix. Two others have told me I don't or that it is so minor it needs not be messed with. The last one I saw decided I had a bad Coolant Sensor for the Computer.
I guess there is one for the computer and one, um, not for the computer. I bought both sensors and he changed them Friday. Today I took the car out and three times while I was out, my temp gauge shot up into the red hovered for a few minutes and sank back down. It has never done this before. Why this might be happening now? I am really sick of taking my car in and getting a thousand different stories, paying to fix things that are not wrong with it and watching it die a slow death.
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So it's been REALLY cold here in MA. for the first time this winter. I've noticed that once my engine warms up to temp (160), the needle drops back down to about 140-150 idling at a stoplight, and takes a while to get back up to temp. Maybe this is normal for the diesel? I've just never noticed this in any of my previous VW gassers. Coolant level is fine, engine runs fine, so maybe its just the brutal cold weather??
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Nothing but trouble lately with this thing. All the big stuff is done and just switched to Synthetic oil too. Now I have these intermittent RPM drops of about 200 - 400 RPM. Seems worse under load.
I've been advised to check the ICP pigtail which I can't do without taking it apart. I did program the ICP volts into the SGII. See the video.
Power stroke video - YouTube
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I recently bought an '09 Santa Fe Limited. I want to love the vehicle, but I've got a problem with how it drives. Basically, here are the symptoms:
1. Engine RMPs dance around about 200 RPMs at idle. (I was told this is normal. I don't think it should be.)
2. Under normal acceleration, it bogs down immediately after shifting into 2nd gear and after a couple of seconds there is a surge and acceleration seems "normal."
3. Occasionally, I feel subtle fluctuations or surges in the engine under both acceleration and/or cruising speed (any speed, really.) It's like I'm feathering the throttle when I know I'm not. This is most pronounced when under a load, such as taking off from a stop sign at the bottom of a hill and accelerating up the hill.
So, here's what the dealer has done to address the issue.
1. According to the Carfax report, the previous owner had the throttle position sensor replaced at 22,000 miles and again at 27,000 miles. I bought the vehicle with just over 30,000 miles (certified pre-owned).
2. On the day that I bought the vehicle, I noticed the issue and the service manager took it for a test drive with me. He told me it was wind buffeting that I was feeling. I thought that was bunk, but with it being a higher profile vehicle, it put some doubt in my mind. He went ahead and flashed something to reset the adaptive learning module that supposedly adjusts something in the engine based on how you drive. It seemed better after that, so I went ahead and bought it.
3. After a few weeks of driving it, it became clear to me that it was definitely not wind buffeting, so I scheduled a service appt. It was taken for an "extensive" test drive (according to the service record) with a diagnostic computer connected. Apparently, the service technician said they were only able to find one small blip with the mass airflow sensor, so they replaced it and called it fixed. I should also note that at no time, have any codes ever shown up when they check for error codes.
4. Although it seem slightly better, the problem still exists. Just for kicks, I dumped a bottle of Seafoam in the gas tank with my last fill up, but that doesn't seem to have made any difference.
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I am on my third EGT gauge. My mechanic installed it as per "auto meter" specifications. He told me, the only reason he could find that the gauges have been failing is low voltage output. I have an onboard compressor for my airbag suspension and every time I start my vehicle it runs to fill up the air system. The voltage drops to 11.1V. It comes up once all is running and the compressor quits. is there any such thing as surge/brownout protection for these systems?
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Here is my problem....the cooling fan will not come on, even with the A/C turned on. The A/C fan works fine. I've changed the fan for a new one and replaced the relay, and checked all the wiring, but nothing has changed. I've read other threads that have kind of the same problem and they mentioned the coolant temperature sensor. I don't have a problem changing it, but don't know where it is located.
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Just yesterday, my 2001.5 Passat GLX had trouble starting. I got a lot of rapid clicking and after a few tries, it finally turned over. Then I drove it around a bit and it started fine after a quick lunch. A few hours later, it hesitated again, so i thought maybe I didn't charge it up enough, so I took a trip down to my local Kragen and thought I'd get the battery tested just in case.
They did a test of the battery with some handheld device and said it came back fine. The guy did say that if I could take the battery out and bring it back, they could test it in a different machine, though, but otherwise the battery was charging fine and was holding the charge fine.
This morning I started up the car to see if it would start. Started fine. Then I did it again and it started fine again. OK, must have just drained somehow and now it's got some juice again. Fast forward to this afternoon and my wife was going to the grocery store and she says "The car is dead!". Yup, dead. Just rapid clicking again, but not turning over.
After checking out some threads in here it looks like it could be the battery. And it is about 5 years old according to the date sticker on it (Duralast, btw). So to test it as best I could, I charged it up with a battery charger, then took a reading with my multimeter. With the car off, I could literally see the voltage dropping in the readings. It started around 13v, but got progressively lower and lower as if it was a timer counting down seconds. I then disconnected the Terminals and took more readings. This time the voltage maintained it's reading and was static.
ok, so now maybe something is draining the battery (and fast!). One thing I noticed when I re-connected the Terminals is a sort of whining sound coming from the area of the coolant reservoir. When I put my ear closer, I could hear liquid moving around there. Is that normal that it would be on when the car if off? Could that be my culprit?
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After doing some searching I was unable to find what exactly would cause a water pump to create a knocking sound and was wondering how or why a water pump for a 350 (5.7l) would knock.
The other day I had to change the water pump on my '96 k2500 (w/ 5.7l). Bought a brand new pump and put it on, refilled the coolant. No odd noises. Heater blew out very hot air, too. Drove for about 20 miles then parked it for about 6 hours. the radiator was still full and no signs of leaks - everything looked normal.
Within 10 seconds of starting the truck there was a rapid knocking... like numerous valves were suddenly out of adjustment or rod bearings crapped out. Shut it off and rechecked everything started it again. The oil pressure was steady at about 55psi. shut it off again.
With the serpentine belt off, oil pressure was good and there was no knocking. Put the belt on and the knocking returned. I also tried it with the fan removed and the belt on - still knocking.
Returned that water pump and got another and so far no problems. But I still wonder, if it was a bearing or maybe some impeller tolerance was off or what exactly in a water pump could cause a rapid knocking sound.
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Very occasionally and usually from a cold start I get a rapid discharge of the battery.
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The other day I decelerated rapidly. I didn't slam on the brakes, but I went from maybe 45mph to 0 in maybe 40 feet or so. When the car stopped, the CEL came on. No apparent issues at the time so I drove it the last few miles home. I checked under the hood with the engine running and heard a whistling noise which I tracked to the plastic pipe connecting the intake manifold to the brake booster. I didn't take a picture of it, but it is the one that has a silver heat wrap on part of it where it passes close to the throttle body. I grabbed a random pic online that kinda shows it.
R32 bay pic by isaacpettit, on Flickr
I believe this pipe feeds air from the intake manifold to charge the brake booster? If this was the case, I thought possible by hitting the brakes harder than usual the back pressure at the check valve was enough to burst the plastic pipe, which may have been heated, stressed already? Then the vacuum leak caused the CEL?
What is the actual purpose of that pipe. The car is well maintained with recent service and just over 30K miles.
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2006 Prius with 130k miles. I'm thinking that my HV battery has slowly deteriorated to the point where it's causing drivability issues, and now needs to be replaced.
The main symptoms I'm experiencing are rapid charge/discharge according to the MFD and significant loss of power once the battery has discharged to one bar. I realize the latter is "normal," but the problem is that I'm seeing one bar frequently now. Hill climbs that my car used to do with no problem and would drain the SOC to 2-3 bars now cause the battery to drain to 1 bar about half-way up and then loss of speed from 65 mph to 45 mph by the time I reach the top. Descending hills, it's not unusual to see the SOC go from 2 bars to 7-8 bars within 30 seconds or so.
I'm not seeing any error lights, and my (cheap) code reader does not report any logged DTCs.
This seems to be a slow degradation of battery performance, rather than an outright failure. I first noticed that the battery would charge/discharge a little quicker than it had been at about 90k miles. At 99k (before the warranty ended) I took it into the dealer and they tested the HV battery. Block voltages ranged from 16.59 to 16.68 V and resistances ranged from 0.025 to 0.026 ohms. Based on this, they said that the battery was fine, and sent me on my way. Since then, the problem has just gotten worse and worse, though.
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I have a 05 V8 with just over 1000 miles on it. The other day while driving with the driver window down, I had the trans in sport mode. As I accelerated quickly and got the rpm's pretty high, I noticed a rapid clicking noise coming from the underside of the car. It sounded like it was below the driver seat area. The clicking I heard sounded electronic, and can be best described as similar to the noise a playing card makes when kids put them in the spokes of their bicycles. The noise became apparent as the car reached the next shift point, and stopped after the shift. As the rpm's rose and it reached the next shift point, I heard it again. I have been able to duplicate the sound in tip mode as well, but I mostly hear it when it's in sport mode as it's easier to get the rpm's up before the shift.
I took the car in and took the service manager for a ride. He claimed he couldn't hear it. So I got my salesman to let me drive another 05 V8 and I heard it on that car too, but not as severe as on mine.
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