Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Random Misfire On Cylinder 2 / 3 And EVAP Codes
Nov 11, 2011
Trying to troubleshoot my 2001 Elantra (173k). I'm having intermittent trouble codes being set and I'm wondering if they may be related:
P0302
P0303
P0446
The cylinder 2 and 3 misfires are relatively recent. Plugs and wires are visually ok (and not that old). I swapped plugs 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 to see if the plugs are bad. It took 3-4 days, but the P0303 set again (and it's very intermittent - car will noticeably lose power for a few seconds, code set, then run fine for several days). I also sprayed carb cleaner on the intake manifold gasket with no change in engine idle, so the gasket appears to be intact.
I had read in a forum somewhere that the misfires could be related to a vacuum leak, which could also be setting the P0446 code. I removed the charcoal canister and inspected the lines - visually ok.
I bench-tested the canister control valve and it did operate, though I noticed some charcoal blocking the valve so it would not close all the way when energized. I used compressed air to blow the debris out of the valve and it appears to close properly now.
I went to hmaservice.com and noticed there are no instructions for the P0446 DTC. I've been using a Haynes manual instead. For quite some time now when refueling, the fuel nozzle shuts off every few seconds (I have to slowly put the fuel in to avoid).
Some questions:
- Can these codes be related?
- Based on my symptoms, should I replace the canister control valve? What about the charcoal canister and the charcoal air filter - should those be replaced as well?
- What else should I check?
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Okay, so a few weeks ago, my tire blew out on the freeway. Of course my spare wasn't in there and when I got one I couldn't get the lugs loosened. My 4way was too big on all sides. It was late, I am a single mother of two young kids so I had no choice but to drive slowly to get it off the freeway. The next morning I came back fully prepared, got my car in to get a new tire. I have been driving with ONE code for my CEL, but at the shop (where I use to work) I used the scanner and it threw 5 codes.
P0300 Random misfire
P0442 Small EVAP leak detected (this one was already there)
P0420 Catalyst system below threshold bank 1
P0301 Misfire cyl 1
P0303 Misfire cyl 3
My beautiful love is an 02 Jetta 2.0 4 Cyl. Now, since 4 of these codes popped up AFTER my first blowout (I turn 30 next month, knock on wood)
Did driving my car at 5 mph about a mile and a half (everywhere up until the gas station was NO PARKING) do something to my car? All of a sudden, any in town driving ESP IDLING makes my check engine light blink and my car has no power I just have to pull over wherever I am. I checked the car out myself on the side of the road and my cat was glowing. After this I do not drive my car.
So, what should I do. I did a tune up. Should I replace the 02 sensors then the cat?
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Here are the codes I'm getting:
P0455 - large evap leak
P1451 - main control (evap canister)
P0306 - cylinder 6 misfire
P0174 - bank 2 lean
are these all related? Or two separate issues. I have replaced all the evap lines with new lines. I have a new egr valve, and exhaust manifolds, and what should I look at 1st
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I recently found these codes. My car is APR 1+. The car seems to run fine so I'm not sure what is going on. I changed the plugs at ~60K miles and now have 72K miles.
Address 01: Engine (CRZ) Labels: 06F-907-115-CDL.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 907 115 M HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: 5BH20--- Serial number:
Coding: 0403010A180F0160
[Code] ....
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So on monday the following error codes appeared on my car. What needs to be replaced off the error codes?
P0300Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected2014-02-04 13:48:29
P0301Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected2014-02-04 13:48:29
P2030No Description Available2014-02-04 13:48:29
P3030No Description Available2014-02-04 13:48:29
C0033No Description Available2014-02-04 13:48:29
P0603Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error2014-02-04 13:48:29
C1400No Description Available2014-02-04 13:48:29
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My check engine light came on the other day, with no symptoms or problems. Today I stopped at the Auto Parts store and had the codes read. They were P0440, P0441, P0446, and P0301. They are for the EVAP system and misfire.
I had read here that one of the codes could be for the gas cap so I tightened it and then, also as read on here, disconnected the negative 12 V battery cable to perhaps clear the check engine light. I was curious.
When I started the car again, I now have not only the check engine light, but the red triangle exclamation point. How would you proceed? The 12 volt battery is around 5 years old. The entire exhaust system was replaced last year.(not O2 sensors though)
The hybrid battery was replaced at 70,000 miles and I now have 110,000 miles on it. I really wonder why disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it caused more error lights to appear? Also, the Auto parts guy said his code reader was fine for my car but I seem to remember here that there may be a special Prius one.
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2001 Prius (242,044 miles) with transaxle error code! Red triangle with exclamation mark, check engine light, PS error, Main battery error, and little red car with exclamation mark error. One week ago car gave random misfire codes with a burnt smell... could have been from my car or could have been a smell from the car next to me. Cleared codes and they never came back. This week I get the CODE OF TRANSMISSION DEATH the dreaded P3120 along with a 5 minute wait by the side of the road until I could restart it and drive the 5 miles back to the house. Cleared the code but it came back the next day with another total loss of power and another 5 minute wait on the side of the road.
After I turn off the car and wait a few minutes it will usually start back up and I can continue on my way... sometimes for a few miles and sometimes for 10 miles. My question is this... could this problem be something other than a bad transmission (transaxle) or should I be looking for a used transmission on ebay? I have also heard that it is possible that the MG2 might be bad and that it can be swapped out without pulling the motor so how can I test and confirm my real problem. I plan to repair myself one way or another... Other than all these warning codes and exclamation mark warnings symbols she drives great until she stops producing power and coasts to a total stop.
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We have been fighting a misfire code for about a year now and I'm pretty sure I finally found the cause. Last Spring the car died on the road and we had it towed to a local service center where they said the fuel pump was bad...this was the 2nd in about 2 years (previous owners doc). We had it replaced and the car was fine but as mentioned had a random misfire code that would come and go. In the last month the car has left us stranded several times and then started after a few hours or a day. While checking the connection to the fuel pump with a meter and test light I verified the pump was getting power correctly to the 5-pin connector but would not start. I unplugged the connector and the 1st 2 pins in the harness connector were damaged and probably burnt.
I cleaned it and applied dialectic grease and plugged it back in turned on the key...fuel pump primed and then the car started and ran fine. It then started to randomly turn on and off but not enough to stall the car. I wiggled the connector and the it I could make it run or shut off. Obviously the connector is bad and the contacts are intermittent. While driving the vibrations would move it just enough to make it cut on and off and more than likely cause a misfire code and sometimes stall the car. My problem now is I can't find a replacement connector/pigtail for the harness connector anywhere including the dealer. Where can I get a new connector for the 5-pin fuel pump harness connector? I have found a MAF replacement connector that looks very similar but not 100% sure if it's the same.
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I bought a 2001 golf gls 1.8T (AWW) about a month ago and it was running pretty bad, was throwing some codes, cylinder 1 misfire and some o2 sensor codes, I replaced the coil packs and spark plugs and then cleaned the MAF. It was still running bad ,rough idle and power loss. I figured it had to be some kind of vacuum leak, I replaced the PCV valve, cleaned the intercooler and put on a silicon TIP. Still had some rough idle and power loss, checked for vacuum leaks, using the good ole starter fluid method and found my intake manifold was leaking so I replaced that gasket. STILL rough idle and power loss, now I'm pulling codes for o2 sensor and a misfire in cylinder 3. My question is, should I replace my pre-cat o2 sensor or replace my MAF sensor? Or are there other things that should also be checked/replace.
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2001 f 150 5.4 liter with it being code pops up saying cylinder one misfire, I've charge coil and spark plug ran great for awhile now starting to act up again. Got coil check and says still good and look at spark plug and looks still in good shape being just replace two weeks ago. It's running fine but if it sits over night and I get in and start it and begins to shake when I but it in drive and don't even need to move the truck just place it in drive with foot on break. I drive it awhile and it stops and runs fine?
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2001 elantra 167000 miles, started a hesitation when given gas and check engine light came on. After hesitation rpms go up it runs good. Code is # 2 cylinder misfire. I have changed plugs, ignition coil and ran seaform into vacuum line and tank. Still no change. Could that 1 injector be clogged.
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2004 Elantra AT ... 6 months ago top of the radiator cracked caused it to overheat and blow the head gasket and warp the head. Repaired that and compression is fine now. It ran great for 4 months but now it randomly stalls. at or near idle. Seems to do it more at operating temp rather then cold. Occasionally the check engine light will pop on and the code reads (random misfire). It acts just like it has been shut off. But immediately restarts.
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I have a 2002 Elantra with 123k on it. It has been having issues with poor acceleration, rough idle, surging, and the car just overall shakes sometimes when driving. The check engine light started flashing on and off periodically today, so I coded and it and it gave me P0303, which is a cylinder 3 misfire. I checked the spark plugs, and the cylinder 3 spark plug was pretty bad, so I went ahead and replaced all 4. The wires were in mint condition, so no issues there. I also put fuel injector cleaner in just for good measure. When I went to test the car, startup and acceleration/reverse were better, but the other symptoms still persist. What I should check next???
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My car is misfiring, as in acceleration 90% sputters until I lay the pedal to the ground, which obviously isn't good for my gas. What do I do? I can't find anything online and I don't want to be throwing money into things that don't work.
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I have a 2001 Elantra with 170K miles. well taken care of. I've been having a rough idle issue for some time now. The car idles very rough. I checked for codes and I got the cylinder 2 misfire code (P0302)...
I started out and replaced the plugs and wires, no solution...
I replaced the coil packs, no solution...
I replaced the MAP sensor, no solution...
I figured it may be no to low compression, so I did a compression test and all cylinders came back normal, still no solution...
I figured it might be a dirty injector, so I poured some seafoam in the gas tank, and no solution...
So my next step is to switch out the injector. Is there anything I am overlooking?
Here's the big thing that is happening too... Everytime I fill up the gas tank, I turn the car on and it idles even rougher. Like if you talk while sitting in the car, you sound like Chevy Chase when he is on the vibrating bed with Beverly D'Angelo in the movie vacation! LOL. It slowly goes away after 10-15 minutes of driving. All this rough running engine ONLY happens at idle, otherwise it runs very smoothly.
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As the title says I have plugged a code reader in and it says "cyclinder three misfire". So I pulled the plugs and good god they were nasty. Some having a gap of 80-90 thousandths of an inch. So I figured the plugs were the source of the problem, thus I replaced them but to my dimise the check engine light is still on, and still reading the same ol' "cyclinder three misfire". I have put 350 miles on it in 24 hours of changing it to allow for proper time of the circuit cycling for the light to change but not sure if it takes longer...?
I also went ahead and checked the plug wires resistance when I had the plugs pulled and they ranged from 1.5-2.5k ohms shortest to longest (cylinder 4-1). And if your curious the magic cylinder three was around 2k ohms for however long that wire is, my guess would be 18 inches. Would this be out of tolerance, I know the norm is 10k ohm for every 12 inches or so...?
My next guess would be replacing the power pack or I guess you car guys call it the "ignition coil"...? I will say that the car does run much smoother after replacing the plugs.
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2003 hyundai accentra and I have trouble code P0303 misfire detected cylinder 3 the car would run rough and hesitate at idle and run rough in drive and reverse I checked the plug gap on number 3 cylinder and it was excessive so I regapped it and put back and the car run good for about a day and now the engine light is back and is running rough and hesitating.
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I would like to find out why my car is misfiring before throwing parts at it. I have a basic level of mechanics and have checked a few things before posting here, which may or may not have ruled out some possibilities.
The problem: I have been consistently getting P0301 and P0304 but only happens sometimes, while other times there is no check engine light. I first checked the ignition coil, right side of it, that controls cylinders 1 and 4. Did resistance test, measured for voltage, and checked the wires for continuity to the connector, with everything coming out good. I know a few must have had issues with the cheap pigtail connector like me so I went and changed that but still got the misfire codes. I then put in an older known to be good working coil but no change.
After that, I removed spark plugs 1 and 4 and put them where 2 and 3 go but still got the same codes P0301 and P0304.
A friend who is a mechanic for Nissan checked the spark and wires, saying they were fine. He then checked the injectors and noticed that injector 1 didn't increase in ticking sound when RPM increased. He said I should replace injectors 1 and 4 to see if that changes anything or switch injectors 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 to see if the codes at least change. I removed them all, got two of them from junkyard just in case, made my own tool where I pumped straight fuel injector cleaner through each of them with pumped air, and put the two from junkyard on cylinders 1 and 4. I still got the same codes so then I switched injectors 1 and 4 with 2 and 3, which didn't change the codes.
I was told by another local mechanic shop that it's definitely the coil but I knew it wasn't.
Other info: I am not sure it would matter when dealing with a misfire but I borrowed a code scanner and saw that the Long Term Fuel Trim was -7%. I researched that and it means that the car is running rich and the computer is being told that it needs to run lean. I am not sure that this would make only two of the cylinders misfire and the freeze data shows that same negative LTFT for when the P0301 happened. I also know that there is an air leak at the gasket where the front cat connects to the flex pipe/rear cat. I have also gotten a rear downstream 02 sensor code once within the past month but it hasn't come back.
Would the LTFT being lean have anything to do with the misfires? Would the gasket between the two cats cause the 02 sensor to get a faulty reading? If so, would the downstream 02 sensor be able to adjust to a lean fuel mix? What else should I check?
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I have a 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora with 103,000 miles. I'm receiving the codes P0300B Misfire and P0440B Evap Emission.
I use Premium Unleaded gas (not at a cheap station) so I don't think it's the gas causing the misfire code P0300B. Also I've put on a new gas cap but I still get the Evap Emission code P0440B.
Working on a 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora with these 2 codes?
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1999 Passat 2.8L. New coil pack assembly, wires, plugs, valve cover gasket(oil in plug holes). Misfire at idle and low rpm. Driving at higher rpm's misfire seems to go away. Codes are random misfire and cyl 1 misfire. Need to know if I would get an injector code if a fault or If that motor has problem with faulty cams or springs or any other common problems. I am going to do a compression check this weekend I'll update that info.....
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Replaced my water pump March 2nd using the "From Below" method. Started the car after and the check engine light was on and water pump was no longer leaking. I drove the GTI to Advance (15 Mins away) it drove fine and I pulled two codes.
P0300 - Random Multiple/Cylinder Misfire
P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire
The car pulled and drove normally. The next day the car is misfiring badly. Hesitation and bucks when accelerating until roughly 3k then smooths out.
I will swap my coilpacks and check if the misfire moves as soon as I can get my hands on an OBD2 Scan Tool.
From what I understand about the VR6 :
-The water pump runs off the serpentine belt
-Camshaft timing is controlled by the timing chain.
-Timing chain is not affected by the serpentine belt/pulleys.
Questions :
-Can turning the Crankshaft Pulley affect timing?
-Can that be the cause of the misfire?
24V VR6
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