The RPMs while driving does up and down. You can feel the engine doing this. You can watch the Tac go up and down. Whats the problem. We just brought a TP sensor but I say its a vacuum leak.
View 11 RepliesI was driving my elantra today, and hit a big pothole. Since then, sometimes when I'm driving in fourth gear (I think), I'll feel a thud, and the rpms will go up a little. Then, when I try to accelerate after a stop, the car won't accelerate normally, like it's still stuck in fourth gear. 2005 Elantra ...
View 3 Replies06 Elantra Limited, 96,xxx miles. When I'm idling at a light or something, the Rpms drop for a split second, almost to the point of stalling, but recovers. Happens in a split second. Does the same thing even when driving, but does it more frequently when idling. It even does that when I first put my foot on the throttle to accelerate from a red light.
I've cleaned the throttle body but it still does it. I've taken it to 3auto parts stores. One said that battery was bad. The other said the battery is fine but alternator is producing low. The last said both are fine.
So I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra, it is a manual transmission. I was having problems with the rpm's going higher than normal at random times while driving, then I noticed that the fluid in the clutch fluid reservoir was low. I determined that to be caused by a bad clutch slave cylinder that was leaking fluid. So I replaced the slave cylinder and that seemed to fix the problem, but now I am noticing that the car lacks power when I'm going up any sort of hill or trying to accelerate faster than normal.
When going up a hill the rpm's will go up and I have a hard time maintaining my speed. When trying to accelerate fast, as in pulling out in front of someone or similar situations, the car seems sluggish and it seems like I need to shift because the rpm's are high but I'm not going fast enough yet for the next gear.
This sounds like it would be some sort of problem-related to the clutch going bad or could the leaking slave cylinder have damaged the clutch. Or does this sound like more of a different problem, maybe something with a fuel filter or something?
When I married my wife two Fridays ago I also married in to her 2006 GLS Elantra.
It has pretty bad ticking which varies with RPMS, and how warm the car is, but is always there at lower RPMS. This has gotten worse the past for weeks, but that may be because she is longer into an oil change, and the filter isn't a great filter.
I am trying to do some research, but the search function appears to bring up items from all the different forums on the site.
Does this engine have solid lifter or hydraulic lifters? I am going to try a few oil changes with some seafoam and a quality filter first.
If that doesn't work how involved is it to replace the valve adjusters, or remove and clean?
I need to keep this car alive for a while, it is in overall great condition, 130k miles, everything works, doesn't smoke, doesn't leak oil, transmission is solid.
All that is wrong is the noisy valve train!
Can't run a/c rpms drop to almost 200 from 1200-1500rpms. Really bad when at at traffic light. I have to constantly press gas pedal.
View 5 Replies2001 elantra has been revving really high on cold starts, RPMs will stay at over 3000 till u switch it into drive or reverse, Never happens when engine is warm, had intake cleaned out, did not solve issue...
View 5 RepliesI have a 05 Hyundai Elantra 2.0L engine(Manual) thats been acting funny. There's a couple issues im having with it.
1. Not matter how far the gas pedal pushed down RPMs wont go over 2,500
2. Car surges and jumps back and fourth sometimes.
3. Idles around 900rpm
4. Sometimes when I take off I'm able to get around 40 mph, and thats where it tops out at.
5. Shifting into 1st gear feels a little spongy
6. Also it can go all the way into 4th gear without dying and the top speed will only be at 10mph
Things I've done so far.
1. Compression test cylinders all came back fine
2. Replaced TPS
3. Checked to make sure exhaust wasn't obstructed
4. I got a stethoscope and listened for the ticking for the fuel injectors and also got some fuel injector cleaner.
I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS with over 215,000 miles. About a month ago, I started my car and it revved up & down from 2 to 4 rpm. I took it to my mechanic and replaced the TPS, thinking it would fix it. What to do next. My mechanic fixes cars, but doesn't do it professionally. I don't have the money to take it to a dealership.
Now, after doing a tune-up and changing out other sensors the RPMs came down to 3 and will stay at 3 rpm when I start the car. When I drive it, it pulls on it's own without touching the gas pedal and is hard to brake. What else I need to fix or replace?
2001 hyundai elantra. Car is almost stalling randomly at stop lights. Low rpms under 500 and stops. Sometimes drops to 100 rpms then shoots up to 500 right before it might stall. Engine light came up got misfire on cylinder 2 and 4 with codes p0440 and u0d00.
View 5 RepliesI'm currently moving cross-country from LA to St. Louis. Had routine maintenance done b4 I left. I've only made it to New Mexico so far b/c my car is losing power after logging 250 mi. RPM's also become erratic. Doesn't completely stall, but won't let me go more than 45mi/h. After a rest break, the problem doesn't re-create.
At my first mechanic stop, the computer checked-out as ok. That mechanic changed the spark plugs and also told me the 2004 has no fuel filter (fuel filter being my suspicion of what was wrong).
Today it lost power again. Jim Bob at a rural garage said maybe the alternator or fuel pump. I have an appt. at Pep Boys tomorrow, as the dealers don't have any avail appts. until Fri.
The contents of my apt. are in the trunk and backseat. Is it worth it to remove them (to get to the fuel pump) at the cost of another hotel day, or should I limp home at 250 mi. a stretch?
I've got an automatic transmission 2002 elantra 2.0 that I purchased in 2009. About a year after owning it a weird problem developed that I've just sort of lived with since. Between 25-40 mph my RPMs occasionally "bounce" persistently by an amount between 500 (mild) and about 1000 (severe). There's a bit of fluctuation insofar as what RPMs/speeds it happens at depending on outside temperature and how warm the engine is (higher temps correlate with this issue happening at higher RPMs and a more pronounced fluctuation), but it's a consistent issue every time I drive. It *seems* like my car is always trying to push down the revs, hits a certain low point depending on the gear/speed, then jumps up just a bit only to edge back down. Lather, rinse, repeat. It's not simply a display problem as I can feel and hear the engine revs changing.
No fluctuations at idle. Above 3000 RPMs it's ALWAYS smooth sailing. When I'm actively accelerating there's never a problem, even if my acceleration stays in the revolution problem range. The car is never in danger of dying, but if the cruise is engaged (ESPECIALLY in the 25-30 MPH range at operating temp) the car shudders uphill - I assume this is because the RPMs dip a bit too low for the gear the car is in. If I press the throttle the car responds normally. This bouncing RPM issue itself NEVER causes the car to shift gears in response, and if it's happening and the car DOES shift everything works fine until it goes back to trying to maintain RPMs in the problem range. When it happens I usually just increase speed by 5MPH and it goes away, though if the car is warm and the speed limit doesn't allow me to go fast enough to get out of the problem range it just does the same thing at the slightly higher RPMs.
When the problem started my car threw an OBD code - I didn't read it myself and brought the car to a random service shop who SAID they changed the throttle position sensor, and the code was gone, but a few days later it was doing the same thing without throwing a code. I tried changing the fuel pump thinking it was a fuel delivery problem, but that didn't solve anything. I put seafoam in the fuel system monthly so I'm fairly certain that fuel system gunk isn't an issue. The symptoms haven't changed AT ALL during the 6+ years this has been happening.
The kicker is that a few years ago I found a SUPERB mechanic - the first one I've ever actually trusted to be not only competent but also honest. Described the problem and even demonstrated it to him. When I brought in my car to have the struts and mounts replaced he spent two days trying to figure out what was causing the RPM issue too... and couldn't nail it down.
Possibly related: after starting the car - regardless of how long it's been running - there's a brief delay between pressing the gas pedal and the engine responding. Delay seems *slightly* longer the colder it is outside, but it's never more than a second and a half. No further delays unless I shut the engine off and turn it on again. Replacing the fuel pump didn't affect this matter whatsoever.
So my 2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS with 80,000 miles, I bought it with 70,000 off of Craigslist to use as a daily driver while i rebuild my honda s2000. Anyways the trouble I am having is that on a cold start the engine idle is almost normal like it should be but the engine just runs really rough and shakes. I do not have a misfire. However the current check engine light was an evap light in which i just removed the charcoal box completely from the system and closed off the vacuum lines. I then unhooked the battery and of course the light went off. I drove it down the road and ir still has the power loss but the cel did not come back. So cel fixed and i hoped the idle would improve but it hasn't. I do not know what to do next...I have read in other threads to check the intake gasket and i will i was just wondering, what this problem could be and how to fix it. As for emissions i don't really care. I have a buddy that will pass the inspection.
View 2 RepliesSo my girlfriend has an 04 elantra 2.0... the car will be running fine but then after so long of driving(maybe 15, 20mins) itll start acting strange..
It will hesitate to accelerate and shift hard and at higher rpms. Then at cruising speed it will turn off instantly(no sputter, hesitation, almost as if you just turned the key off). Seconds later the engine will come back but the gauges die and the engine will remain on.
At that point i pulled over and as i was on the brakes the car died when I came to a complete stop. Once the car completely turned off it would not start back up. However jump starting it got it going. The car is not throwing any codes.
My friend was having trouble with her 2001 elantra. Her idle was erratic and her RPMs were constantly high. we checked every where for a vacuum leak but could not find one in any of the lines. We went on to switch out the idle air control valve, the throttle position sensor, and even cleaned out her throttle body. we threw up our hands and sent it to a shop. Come to find out there WAS a vacuum leak. apparently in the air idle control valve sensor there is a gasket that seemed to be missing. I of course didn't think about replacing a gasket when I replaced the sensor because I never saw one there.
View 1 RepliesI have manual shift and the clutch is worn out. when in motion if I press the pedal the rpms jump but the car does not accelerate. only way to accelerate is to press very gently.
Q: do I always need to change the flywheel, which is expensive or changing just the clutch will do??
The car is an '05 elantra, 97,000 miles, auto., car is new to me. First time on the freeway today, 30 miles @75-85 mph, at the end of the off ramp I could feel it surging, shift to neutral rpm's went to 1500, hoss the gas and back to normal. On the return trip off ramp, went to neutral, jab the gas, everything OK. I'm going to clean the throttle blade, check things, etc.
View 3 Replies2002 Elantra auto trans issue.
We are experiencing NO throttle after the car sits over night. But Not every time. When I write "NO throttle" the car will start but will not increase rpms with pedal input/movement. Runs at idle only. After a few minutes, it picks up the pedal input and is fine until is sits over night, sometimes.
I have changed out the TPS and no change. The car has just over 80000 miles and otherwise runs like a champ. There is no check engine light or any stored codes. The cable rotates freely at the TB. I read in the forums that the TPS replacements can be suspect.
2002 Elantra engine is revving up to 3000 rpms when in neutral or park. I changed the Throttle Position sensor and it went right back to revving up. Code read P0121. What might be causing this? Seems like I get one thing fixed and then another code shows up..
View 2 RepliesAfter 10-15 minutes of driving my car tonight I noticed a knocking sound and maybe a sort of whining sound that corresponded in speed/pitch to the RPMs. No warning lights, codes, temperature gauge ok, performance was fine.
I looked under the hood and I'm pretty sure it's coming from the left side of the engine (where all of the belts are). I didn't have time to isolate it further.
After 2 hours I started it up again and the noise was gone. As I drove I listened closely and after about 10 minutes I started hearing it again. It was quieter than before, but I assume it would have continued to get louder had I not arrived at home and turned off the car.
So my 2005 elantra 2.0 CVVT has 189k on it 1 owner.
I got a check engine light one day and i read the code. Came out to be 02 sensor code bank 1. So i order a denso o2 sensor and replace the part.
I drive the car for about 400 miles to reset monitors and get a check engine light. P0420 cat code. At this point the car drives with normal power and pickup.
1000 miles later my car has lost power. It doesn't have any get up or power when driving normally. I take the car to my local shop and they recommend replacing front cat. I replace front cat, same issue.
At this point i'm not sure if it is a transmission problem or maybe my 2nd cat or something else?
On the freeway if I put my pedal to the ground the rpms surge up very very slowly,
Also seems like the car doesn't shift till around 4k rpms, seems like previously it shifted sooner.