When I so this its like pressing in the clutch and revving it but my car is an automatic. During the upshift and downshift there is no jerking or hard shifting so I would assume this is OK? And is full throttling your car every few days bad or good?
View 10 RepliesMy Hyundai Avante (2011 model 1.6) suddenly loses acceleration while my foot is still pressing on the gas pedal. Every time that happens I have to raise my foot from the gas pedal and press it again to make the car accelerate. This thing happens randomly, but mostly at speed lower than 80 Km/h
I tested the car on an empty road once; I didn't raise my foot from the gas pedal this time when the car lost acceleration. The car speed dropped to zero and the RPM gauge returned to idle (i.e. around 1000 RPM).
The check engine never light up during or even after this thing occurs. Here is the list of things the mechanic tried on my car:
1-Cleaned the body throttle
2- Tested the car with another used body throttle
2- Tested the car with another used gas pedal
3-Check the fuel pressure and injection
4- Checked the sparks
5- Tested the car onboard computer.
None of the above worked!!! Here is the strange thing my mechanic discovered, if he unplugs the cable of the Anti-lock braking system in the car. The problem never occurs.
I have been driving the car for two weeks, with the ABS system unplugged. The loss of acceleration problem never happens. I am not sure what the ABS has got to do with the car acceleration.
My 2003 Elantra has multi spark (quad) electrodes? I have a hesitation on acceleration problem. Also feel resistance when pressing the gas pedal. I am going to change the plugs and wires. Just wondering if the type of plugs may contribute to the problem.
View 9 RepliesI have manual shift and the clutch is worn out. when in motion if I press the pedal the rpms jump but the car does not accelerate. only way to accelerate is to press very gently.
Q: do I always need to change the flywheel, which is expensive or changing just the clutch will do??
What Is that little hose for? I can Smell the gasoline whenever i start the car in the morning. It is cracked But i recently heard a z-zzing Under the hood. Is it an expensive hose? What about the hose clamp.. it looks weird.. is its special for that application ? I wanna replace it myself but I don't want to do it wrong and turn my car on fire.
View 4 RepliesI have an 05 Elantra and the blinkers suddenly don't work any more. Both of them. The headlights still work and everything else seems fine. I tried checking the fuses and the ones I can see are fine but there are several that are larger and opaque. You can't see if they are tripped. What could be causing the blinkers not to work and how do I check the fuses if that is the culprit?
View 5 RepliesI am having some brake problems. They started grinding really hard suddenly one night while I was at work (delivery) on the passenger side and having recently replaced my driver's side wheel bearing I thought maybe something was wrong with the other one (seeing as how they have the same number of miles on them) that was causing my brakes to get wonky.
Drove to my Dad's to enlist his expertise. When we got it all taken apart the first thing we noticed was the rim of the rotor was all eaten up. Then we got the pads off and saw they were completely worn all the way down to the metal only on the outer edge, so they are wearing at a diagonal. Same for the back and front pad but the front pad was worse.
We thought the caliper was sticking and causing that since it was hard to move before taking it off, so we replaced and regreased the pins, and put on a new rotor and break pads.
Decided to take the other side apart to see what it was doing. Same story just not all the way through the pad yet but quickly heading that way. However the caliper pins on this side were easy to compress and quick to pop back so things were starting to stink like that wasn't our problem on the other side either.
We had a very tough time getting the caliper, although fully compressed, back on with the new brake pads. It was a struggle to make it work, but we did and then I made my drive back with less than optimal braking power which was probably not a great idea (3 hour drive.)
My dad had a sleepless night that night because nothing added up for him as to why the pads were wearing that way and having so many problems. In the morning he got online on Advanced Auto's website where we bought all our parts and then compared their brake pads to ones on OReiley's website. Well OReiley's offers two different styles of brake pad one which has a tab on the outer edge and one that doesn't. The pads that came on my car when I got it didn't have this tab and the ones Advanced auto sold us which I put on my car the time before I started having all these problems, did have a tab.
We are pretty sure this tab is causing the brake pad to sit in the caliper at an angle because the opening in the caliper is not big enough for the tab to clear it. This is why my pads are wearing at an angle, and only the outer edge of the pad is making contact with the rotor. I really only had like 20% braking power!
I still had the brake pads that came on the car when I got it so I popped those on with the old rotors before I went to work tonight (they still have a ton of pad left and its a long story why I replaced them) it's not ideal but I have WAY better braking now and its a temporary fix until I get this sorted out.
Why Advanced auto sold me these pads that don't work with my car TWICE or what I was supposed to know before going in to buy brake pads? Generally I trust that when I got in there and tell them what my car is and ask for a part they will give me the part that works with my car. And one time being wrong is fine but twice at two different stores?
I have a 2001 Elantra with 126k miles. For months it's been randomly hesitating, meaning I'll be riding along and suddenly the gas pedal will do nothing...then about 3 seconds later, VROOOM, the gas pedal will start working again. Recently, it's started stalling as well.
I've already replaced the MAP sensor, input speed sensor, throttle position sensor, spark plugs, wires, and coil pack. Nothing has worked, but it is getting progressively worse (it stalls more frequently, and the gas pedal becomes suddenly unresponsive more often).
I can get it started and let it idle for an hour....idles smoothe. As soon as I try to move the car or step on the throttle...it stalls.
View 2 RepliesI just changed timing belt all accessory belts and water pump on my 2001 Hyundai Elantra. Now the check engine light is on and it is sluggish in throttle response. It sounds smooth. I was quite sure I had the cam and crank marks dead on. I turned it 2 revolutions by hand and they both looked dead on before I started it. If I were off 1 or 2 teeth would that be the cause? And if so how do I fix it? Also will it hurt it to drive it that way?
View 2 RepliesMy Girlfriends car over last night, i went and picked her up and found the radiator caps was not on right and the electric fan was unplugged. Fixed both of the those and got about 10 miles and the car still over heats only while under throttle. I pull over and park it starts cooling down. turn on heat seems to work for a moment but it never blows warm air. The check engine light came on and i have got the code P0117, Engine Coolant Temp, circuit low input.
View 2 RepliesMy 2005 elantra hvt 2.0 has oil leaking into the air filter coming through or near the throttle body, I've been told its an egr valve.
If it is...where is it and how much for a new one and is it an easy fix? If not what could be causing the leak?
I've tagged this as a Civic but it's a 1999 Honda City 1.5 EX. (Asian market vehicle)
Normally this car would shift to 2nd at 20km/hr and 3rd at 40. But if I hit 40+ and it shifts into third, then coast for a while and let the speed drop to below 40 (say 35), when I push the throttle now the car doesn't kick down and it feels like it has almost no power even if I push the throttle to the floor. The feeling of no power lasts for about 2 or 3 seconds, and then the car downshifts automatically and the RPMs shoot up. Quite dangerous trying to move around quickly in Asian city traffic. I adjusted the kick down cable to make it stiffer, but now the same problem happens at a higher speed and shifting at a higher RPM.
2002 Elantra auto trans issue.
We are experiencing NO throttle after the car sits over night. But Not every time. When I write "NO throttle" the car will start but will not increase rpms with pedal input/movement. Runs at idle only. After a few minutes, it picks up the pedal input and is fine until is sits over night, sometimes.
I have changed out the TPS and no change. The car has just over 80000 miles and otherwise runs like a champ. There is no check engine light or any stored codes. The cable rotates freely at the TB. I read in the forums that the TPS replacements can be suspect.
While driving the other day, the truck suddenly began to stall when pressing the accelerator. The water in fuel light came on as did the glow plug light. This continued with the truck sometimes dying all the way and other times just stalling then picking back up. No difference in throttle pressure seemed to make a difference except that letting off totally then slowly pressing seemed to let it keep running sometimes.
So I get home and drain the fuel water separator. I gets about a thimble full of water and lots of the rusty looking junk others have talked about. Try to run the truck again, same thing as before. I then changed fuel filters and thought that had it licked but after about 10 minutes it started again. By the way, the 6mm plug seemed to have about a third of the threads rusted off. Not sure what that means as I drain it at least twice a year.
I have read a lot about the ICP and IPR issues and was wondering if this could be my problem. I am hoping its not the HPOP. My other thought was something in the fuel tank blocking the in tank filter. I checked the top mount bowl and it was only about two thirds full after running the truck
Truck info: Late 2004 Ford F350 Dually 4x4 crewcab, 6.0, EGR delete plate,4" turbo back exhaust with cat delete, no muffler,K&N filter and filter box, Diablo tuner usually set to 60hp upgrade.
I went to clean my wife's throttle body out with brake cleaner and I think I sprayed too much into the throttle body now the car won't start. It makes a small clicking/grinding noise when I try to start it. What have I done?
View 12 Replies2002 camry. The car will not accelerate. The throttle body makes a clicking sound when pedal is depressed.
So.. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts in it. In the mean time located a spare throttle body from a 2003 from a local yard. The old throttle body has a part number 22030-28030 and the replacement has a part number 22030 0H010. The replacement throttle body wouldn't even move when the pedal was depressed.
I put the old one back on.. and now it doesn't click anymore but the car in Park only revs to 2000 rpm's. Its not sticking or having any mechanical issue.
I checked the parts site for Toyota and the replacement is the new number. Superseded. Does the throttle body after replacement need to be reprogrammed? Or whats the deal. I wish I was more Toyota literate when it comes to this.
Yesterday I was driving my R spiritedly (the usual...). I accelerated up close to redline and was just about to shift up when something happened in front of me (I forget what, lane change, something like that) so I let the gas pedal snap back up. I didn't touch the brake pedal at all.
What surprised me was the tach fell off almost like the car was dead. My expectation is that momentum and the car being in gear would cause the RPMs to decay slowly, just as my speed decayed.
Do you think the DSG plays a role here? Did it engage the clutch because of the 'panic' lift of the throttle? It didn't put me in an unsafe condition or anything, it just surprised me as I'd not seen it do that before.
When Rolling Either Of The Front Windows Down For The First Time Of The Day, It Sounds Like The Window Glass Is "Sticking" To The Weatherstripping When Rolled Down. Hence The Cracking Sound, I Can Only Assume Something Is Loosening Up In The Door.
View 15 Replies1 weird problem.... when I open either door, only 2 light on top of the mirror light up, but the rear one right beside the handle is not lighting up.
I play with the button at the side, it's only ON/OFF. no door option like the front....how can I make all of them light up when door open?
So I had a weird problem this morning. I have a 2013 Elantra GT with about 27,000 miles on it. This morning when I went to start it, it tried to turn over once then stopped. Every other time I tried turning the key it didn't make any kind of noise and wouldn't start. Despite all the lights and radio and windows working fine, I still tried jump starting it, but to no surprise, that didn't work at all. Finally I tried using the shift lock to shift into drive then back into park again. When nothing worked, I tried making a complete guess and shifting it into neutral, when I was in neutral and tried turning the key, the car finally started. That happened about an hour ago and the car has been starting fine since.
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