Elantra XD (2001-06) :: P0422 And P1529 Codes - Car Will Shift Hard Into Third Gear And Stay There
Jul 27, 2013
I have a 2001 Elantra GLS, 160,000 miles. These two codes come up on ny diagnostic tool.
P0422
Main catalyst efficiency below threshold (bank 1)
No symptoms at all
P1529
Customer snapshot request
Symptoms
Car will shift hard into third gear and stay there without shifting at all regardless of speed. Shutting the car off and restarting will sometimes fix, but only temporary. When car runs normal, it runs fine and shifts good. At speeds around 40 it seems to kick back and forth between 3rd and overdrive as if it can't decide where to be. Tried replacing speed sensor, but new sensor did not fix problem.
Fuel Sys 1 CL
Fuel Sys 2 NA
Calc Load 18.4
ECT 201
STFT B1 0.0
LTFT B1 -2.3
MAP 8.6
Eng RPM 3351
Veh Speed 22
EV flashing
O flashing
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I have the following codes:
P0705
P1529
It looks like P1529 is caused by P0705. P0705 is the neutral range sensor. I purchased the sensor and replaced it. It is aligned correctly and I am still having the same CEL and codes.
What the car doing: The car jerks into reverse and drive. The dash does not indicate what gear I am in (PRNDL).
When it drives, acceleration is very slow. I believe the car is "stuck" in third gear. I've heard of fail safe mode?
What I did: This problem started when I changed my stereo. I did three bad things which may have caused this problem.
One, I had to put the car in "L" to get the dash off. I left it in "L" for a while then I tried starting the engine while it was still in "L".
Two, when I reinstalled the center console I swapped the wiring for the hazard lights and the rear windshield wiper (GT)
Three, I wired the dash illumination positive and negative together.
The cluster's backlight does not come on anymore and these codes came up. I checked all fuses and they are good. Where to look for a possible shorted wire that can be causing this?
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While on my 20 mile commute my check engine light turned on, attached the code reader to the car and got codes P0422 and U0D00. Looked up the P0422 code to find "Caralyst efficiency below normal (bank 1)" I have a list of possible fixes but have no luck finding out about the U0D00 code. I notice I lose and a quart of oil every month and when I start the car, the first 5 seconds or so the engine revs to 4000 rpm.
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I have a 2002 SF GLS/LX (?) with 2.7 L V6 2WD (60,000 miles) and it started to apply the ABS brakes in a random manner. Found out it was caused by a broken front wheel tone ring. So, I pulled the ABS fuse under the dash and it stopped the brake problem. Drove it today to pick up some wood and now the check engine light has come on.
My neighbor has an OBD scanner and he plugged it in and said I have a P0501 code and a P1529 code, but he didn't know what they meant. What they mean and are they related to me pulling the fuse under the dash? Did I pull the wrong fuse? Is there another fuse somewhere that I should have pulled?
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Elantra GT 2003 ... I had engine check light on and OBD 2 code reader showed DTC P1529 and P0705. I erased the codes to see if they comes back and one month later I have same codes back. P0705 indicates Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction, so probably I should check range sensor. How the range sensor looks alike and where to find it. Where can I find it?
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Could my brake issue be related to my transmission problem? Neither are constant. Brake problem= sometimes the brake pedal feels hard, like there's no power brakes (I drove a car once. ..looong time ago. .. that had no power brakes or steering) but it will kick in after a short distance. Transmission prob= seemingly unrelated, is a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This has happened maybe a 1/2 dozen times, the first time and mostly when in heavy commute traffic and when going between 1st and 2nd gear because of the slow commute speed, but also at other times when not in lengthy slow commutes. When it doesn't shift, the odometer doesn't work (shows only dashes) and an engine light comes on (the sprocket/gear looking one). Usually the transmission will eventually shift and the light goes off.
I read that the brake problem might be a vacuum hose problem? Something about a booster? Is this dangerous? or is it like having a car w/ no power brakes? Going to have my transmission looked at this week. Read on another site about dropping valve seats on this year car. If there's a major transmission problem, I'm wondering if it's worth fixing? I changed, timing belt, water pump, front and rears brakes, tires. 143,000 miles.
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I got a new clutch & shift cables & fluid professionally done one year ago. I have only put 5k miles on it since. In the last two months the... gate/slot for 1st & 2nd have been getting worse n worse. All gears show sporadic rough shifting (read rough as a clunk or one tooth grind), but 1st/2nd are consistently rough & the gate seems to be getting narrower...
Environmental & operating temp, do not noticeably affect these symptoms.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with approx 155,000 miles on it(I don't know if that matters). The car started ok at first. When I put it into reverse, I noticed that it was really hard to move the gear shift(which it's normally really easy). I put it back in park and let it sit for a minute thinking it just had to warm up a bit more.
When I tried it again, it was still hard to shift, but this time when it got into gear I heard a loud clunk. This scared me, so I put it back in park and turned off the car. Now it won't start. All of my lights(headlights, dashboard lights, radio) come on, but the engine won't turn over.
I don't know if any of the following is relevant but I'm putting it out here anyway just in case it is: The battery is only a year old(and since all my lights came on, I don't think it's dead)I had an oil change on Saturday. The belts were replaced a few months ago. My check engine light is on because of an O2 sensor.
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A few months ago I had multiple misfires due to a failed coil. When it happened I drove it enough to get to an Advance auto to have the code checked that came up. After I replaced the coil the car ran fine, but then the engine light came on with the P0422 bank 1 code. Does this mean the manifold cat converter is shot? The car runs fine except for what feels like the transmission trying to decide where it wants to be around 40mph (like it's shifting back and forth, don't know if it's related). I have a flex pipe that is leaking and needs replaced. I haven't noticed any loss in MPGs (consistently 26mpg city since I started checking). I have 133k miles.
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My Santa Fe 2001 model V6 4X4 Automatic shift gears down hard from 3rd in to 2nd. I checked transmission oil and its light brown. Should I drain and refill or not worth it.
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Drove to work today and all was fine. Came out at 3 and started my Elantra up, dropped it into gear and it was ROUGH. Engine ran for a few seconds before I put it in gear. The shifts up the street were hard and the downshifts were equally hard. I put the transmission in manual--same thing. After a few minutes, the shifts returned to normal. No CEL. The car has 48,700 miles on it.
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My 98 elantra will not shift out of 2nd gear?...
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I have a 2002 Santa Fe V6 2.7 liter, FWD, 215,000+ miles. When it shifts from 2nd to 3rd the whole vehicle jerks. It does not do this on the other gears. I took it by a transmission place for a free scan and they said the transmission is fine.
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I have an 01 Elantra Gls with perplexing issues. The car starts at 3000 rpms, and continues to bounce between 2k and 3.5k in both park and neutral. when I put it in reverse i get a very hard shift. It actually jerks the whole car. in drive and reverse, it idles around 1.5k it hesitates quite a bit to accelerate. All fluid levels are right and don't smell burnt. it takes me 10 mins to put 4 gallons of gas in. if i pump too fast it shoots back at me. i randomly smell gas while driving. Im hoping these problems are a couple of issue I can handle at home. i just wanted some input before i buy the manual. thinking vacuum lines maf sensor.
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So my girlfriend has an 04 elantra 2.0... the car will be running fine but then after so long of driving(maybe 15, 20mins) itll start acting strange..
It will hesitate to accelerate and shift hard and at higher rpms. Then at cruising speed it will turn off instantly(no sputter, hesitation, almost as if you just turned the key off). Seconds later the engine will come back but the gauges die and the engine will remain on.
At that point i pulled over and as i was on the brakes the car died when I came to a complete stop. Once the car completely turned off it would not start back up. However jump starting it got it going. The car is not throwing any codes.
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i bought a f250, i rebuilt the 7.3 after installing it the transmission isn't shifting correctly. Reverse perfect, 1st and shifts to 2nd great. wont go into 3rd. i replaced the 2 sensors on the transmission, i replaces the sensor on the 3rd member. the speedometer works but not correctly, i can unplug the sensor on the front of transmission and it shifts into 3rd. but when i plug it back it doesn't. no codes. could it be the ecm?
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The strangest thing happened to me on the way home yesterday from work. I was driving about 110 all the way home on a highway and took an exit to my local area when i noticed as i approached the ramp i wasn't able to shift into any gears. It just felt like there was something blocking me, like a wall of rubber or something. I stopped the car on the side of the road, unsure what was going on. While the car was on and my foot on the clutch, i am able to move into all gears perfectly fine but its when i start moving i cannot go into the others. Strange. I was able to force it into second gear from first but it sounded like two plates or discs sort of sliding around on each other..maybe that was my imagination but i stopped and didn't proceed further.
While i was sitting waiting for the tow truck, i remember that the last few months it has been getting harder and harder to get into gears while driving. I would be driving and would have some resistance to get into the pocket. This progressively got worse and i guess lead to this point where i am unable to get anywhere.
First thing i thought was the transmission, but i am able to go forward in first and reverse okay and the clutch pedal was not to the floor. The clutch was recently changed, approx 20k ago.
Could it be something easy to fix? Perhaps the clutch cable has stretched out and it is not pulling me far enough into the gears making it impossible to shift. Maybe the master or slave clutch cylinder have failed? I am not sure at all!
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I have an '01 Elantra 5 speed. Been great for 3 years. Replaced the clutch at 169000 km and it's been going really well.
It now has 186000 and just recently the gear shift lurched to the left (I did not notice exactly when it happened) but when I tried to shift down to 2nd it was noticeably more difficult to select. Selecting 1st or 2nd has become more difficult ever since.
It is certainly visible that the shift has moved because when 3rd is selected it looks like 1st is selected. I'm guessing a mounting bolt for the shift may have broken or dislodged.
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01 jetta vr6 5 speed. Alright so earlier today I pulled out the driveway. (Hard) was in 1st gear around 3 or 4 grand and I stomped it. Got to 6 grand and hit 2nd. Took 2nd to 6 grand and let of around 60 mph. After that I short shifted into 3rd, 4th, then 5th. I noticed going into fith was hard. Had kinda rev match to get it. I stayed in 5th till I got to my destination roughly 4 miles. When I came back out to leave I had a hell of a time getting it into reverse. On my way home it was extremely hard to shift and now when the car is running I cant get it into any gear. This is what I did.
Car shifts fine with car off.
Car will not shift with engine running.
When started in gear with clutch depressed I can still let the clutch out and stall the car.
When starting car while in gear with the clutch NOT DEPRESSED the car jumps forward.
I can figure it out ove tried re adjusting the linkage. Nothing.
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I have two codes P0760 and P0755, malfunction shift solenoid B and C, today I took it to Hyundai here in queens ny, I was told that It would cost e 2684.00 to fix my issue, I can't believe that if those two codes are the problem why would it cost 2684.00 ? Where are these solenoids located?
The car feels like your one of the flintstones, it's stuck in 3rd gear and cant get out, then it jerks when it tries to shift, tranny oil is fine not burnt like if the clutches are gone.
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I have been having an issue with my 4-5 gear shift under hard acceleration and know that a rebuild is due soon but I was wondering if any high performance kit available with all the clutches and friction discs needed to rebuild.
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