Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Overheating - Bubbling And Gurgling Sounds / Coolant Fluid Leaked Out Underneath
Jul 31, 2011
Today, the air conditioning stopped working in my 2003 Elantra. Just stopped blowing cold air. Then the engine thermometer kept on climbing. When I pulled over home, I lifted the hood and heard a lot of bubbling and gurgling sounds, and coolant fluid leaked out underneath the car.
What could be the cause of this? When I let the car stay for a while, the AC did kick back on, but only for a few moments and the thermometer kept on climbing again until I turned the car off. The fan is blowing, I can hear it, but it is obviously not cooling the engine off appropriately.
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I have 2001 Nissan Xterra SE 3.3L V6. A few weeks ago my car started to overheat while going through the grapevine (mountain pass in SoCal). After filling it up with coolant, I took it to the shop. They couldn't figure out what exactly was the problem. It passed the block test and such. They said the top hose was swelling up as if something was blocking it. They also said my car was going through about a gallon of coolant. They replaced the water pump, thermostat, and the top hose. they also replaced the timing belt.
After driving the car for an hour, it started to overheat again. This time, I took it to the Nissan dealership. They said the timing belt was off by 2 teeth and they think that's why it overheated, so they fixed that problem. They also did a cooling system test and found no leaks.
I got the car back and it still overheats. After the turn off the car, I see coolant being bubbling back into the reservoir almost to the top. Also, my radiator was replaced about a year ago.
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I can see where coolant has leaked out from underneath and come out the sides of the motor beneath the intake gasket.. probably a bad definition but yall probably know what i mean.. i know its a common 3100 motor problem.
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A few days ago, my car developed a loud squeeling noise coming from the belts. I opened the hood to find both caked on and still wet PS fluid all over the left side of the engine compartment and the belts/pulleys. Most of the mess was concentrated near the PS fluid reservoir and the two hoses attached to it (picture of hoses and reservoir below from Google). This leads me to believe there is a leak in one, or both of these suction hoses. I will replace the hoses but my question is how should I clean up the fluid on the belts and pulleys? Should I use a soft brush and a rag with soapy warm water, brake cleaner and/or engine degreaser to get all the gunk off? I would really loathe having to have to put in new belts, seeing as that I just had all the belts changed 6 months ago. This squeeling noise makes my car sound like some old junky clunker and I hate it.
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So I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue with about 190k miles. It currently has an overheating problem but first I'll discuss some history:
-It had a previous overheating problem a few months ago that was accompanied by bubbling sounds. We diagnosed this as boiling coolant because the system was not pressurizing due to a leak in the reservoir. We fixed the reservoir leak and pressure tested it to find that the leak was repaired. The bubbling noises stopped and the car no longer overheated.
-The car was then underheating nearly all the time. We diagnosed this as a broken thermostat, probably killed by the overheating that was caused by the leak in the reservoir. We replaced the thermostat and bled/burped the system and now the car does not underheat.
Now the car operates around the half-temp mark and stays very regular except in traffic or parked in the driveway. So it overheats when it is idling. You can rev up the engine in these cases and see the temp gauge fall back down, so it is dependent on RPM only and not on the actual traveling speed of the car. Also at this time the car supplies nice heat to the cabin.
Things to exclude:The electric fans seem to be working fine and they switch on and off supplying a good deal of wind.The system was bled/burped.The system has a new thermostat.The system does not leak based on a pressure test.The system has enough coolant.The system supplies good heat to the cabin.
My guess is that there is a clog/general grossness inside the system someplace or that the water pump is starting to fail?
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So I noticed one day when I was standing outside of my car right after I had turned it off that I could hear the coolant bubbling some. I had just recently flushed the coolant, put on a new water pump, thermostat, and put in a new reservoir with a new cap so I figured it was just some air in the system because there was air in the top radiator hose. So I just worked the air out and thought that was it. The next time I drove my car it did it again and there was no pressure release when I took off the cap either. I ended up getting the head worked on (valve job and check the head for warping). Even after all of this my reservoir doesn't seem to build pressure and every time there also seems to be air in the top radiator hose. After the car is warm I can work coolant back in the hose and 5 minutes later theres air back in it. I've pretty much replaced everything with the cooling system besides the hoses within the last year so I don't know what it could possibly be.
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Ok so I have an 04 Jetta 2.0 and lately it's been overheating on me. The first time it started overheating was because my radiator was cracked and leaked out all my coolant, I swapped the radiator everything was fine for a while. The second time I started overheating, I saw my primary fan was bad it wasn't spinning at all, I swapped it everything was fine for another while. I also changed the coolant temp sensor, it wasn't bad it's just because the coolant flange was leaking coolant, so I changed it a long with the O-Rings and sensor. I also changed the thermostat just incase that was the problem but it wasn't.
I don't think the fans are turning on by them selves when they have too, but either way the car still overheats when I turn on the fans manually with the A/C. I'm not sure if the coolant is circulating, as the car only begins to overheat when I come to a stop and it idles. I have a feeling it's the water pump but I wanna be sure it is before I change it. What it could be? Things that I should check for that usually go out?
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I have a 04' RX 330 with 92k. It has small radiator leak. If you are standing in front of the car and look below the fan on the left side of the radiator you can see a small amount of red fluid that has leaked out of the radiator. However, the leak isn't big enough that I ever have to add coolant I just top it off when I get the oil changed. Also it doesn't puddle on the pavement when parked.
The only thing I really notice is that my windows tend fog abit easier now so I assuming the moisture must be making its way into the ventalation somehow. My mechanic said its about a $700 repair. My question should I fix it and is $700 reasonable. Also I've never had the timing belt replaced would it make since do have this done at the same time as the radiator. How long will it take before it becomes a major problem instead of a minor annoyance?
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT Hatchback, and it is not going so well with me at the moment. My thermostat works perfectly fine, but my car is overheating. I've taken it to the shop multiple times but still doesn't seem to get fixed. My coolant seems to be fine, and stays at its level, but what doesn't seem to be fine is that it doesn't seem to be sucking strong enough into the radiator so that it can go to the engine! On the lower level coolant cap (one with the hose attached), it seems to be leaking out of there when the car is hot, as if the coolant is trying to suck into the radiator but not strong enough but yet leaks out of it since it isn't strong enough. My theory is, the cap with the hose isn't on tight enough to fully let the coolant suck through the hose, and so air leaks cause the coolant to leak out of it and not into the radiator.
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I have an issue with my 2004 GLS 3.5 L w/ 68000 miles. After the SUV warms up for a few minutes I can hear a whine or rattle on the passenger side. I noticed a little power steering fluid leaked out the top of the reservoir (a few little bubbles in the oil). Then reading on the HMA website it says the filter in the reservoir can get clogged and restrict the flow. I took the reservoir off and flushed it out then replaced with new oil.
Unfortunately this did not fix the issue the noise is still there. It's most prevalent when you turn but the noise also picks up a little when you hit the gas. I have checked for hose leaks but cannot find one. My next step is to have the steering pump changed out. While the mechanics in there I am going to have him check the hoses/pulleys really close and look around for another leaks anywhere. Noise is annoying but the steering works fine.
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I checked the coolant level on the reservoir and it was low.
I decided to add coolant by removing the radiator pressure cap, however, the coolant fluid is full under this cap.
So my question is where should I add coolant? through this cap or the reservoir?
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I just had a new evaporator installed in our 03 Gx 470, and now it is making a gurgling, bubbling type sound while the air conditioner runs, it almost sounds like air is in the system.
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I have a 2003 Camry. When I start it, I hear a "gurgling" sound, like bubbling water.Sounds like it is coming fom under the dashboard, but can't be sure.Heater core is my first guess, but heat is fine and it seems to be coming from the driver's side - not the passenger's side where the heater core is located.
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I have a '99 E350 that sat for a winter. When I started it up, it appeared to be overheating and boiling over. I didn't have time to mess with it, and it sat for another year. Today I tried to figure out the issue and determined that I have trains fluid in the coolant. Pulling the trans dipstick revealed a white milkiness on the dipstick, so I'm guessing the trans cooler/radiator failed and the two fluids have mixed.
My question is, is the transmission salvageable? The van has not been driven in this condition, so I'm hoping there is hope. Obviously, flushing both systems (multiple times) is in order, along with a new radiator. But is there any hope for the transmission? I'd hate to spend the money flushing it all multiple times if it is a lost cause.
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This morning I was on my way to work, I stopped at a stop sign then accelerated and turned right, a couple of seconds after that I heard a snapping noise, that sounded like it came from underneath the car, immediately followed by a huge cloud of what I believe was smoke at which time my car began making a noise similar to when you touch spinning blades of a fan. I got over in the grass as fast as I could and turned off the engine.
The smoke cleared and all the noise stopped. When I looked under the hood I couldn't see anything odd but when I looked under the car I noticed liquid dripping out pretty quickly, thought maybe Id blown a hose. Later when the tow truck got there the guy noticed a trail of oil in the grass where I pulled off, and sure enough it was in the road too. I am hoping I cut the engine off quickly enough before it did anymore damage!
A little background, I bought this car used 9 months ago. It has about 130,000 miles on it. 2 months ago I had to replace the intake manifold gasket but before I got to that conclusion I replaced spark plugs and the TPS.
1 month ago I took my car to get the oil changed and the guy said my oil pan had an over-sized drain plug which is used when the original is striped out. He wouldn't remove it and evacuated the oil from the top and told me this needed to be done every time I had my oil changed from now on. I wish I had known that before I changed the oil myself on the previous oil change. I knew it was leaking a little after I did the change but didn't know the reason behind it.
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Hyundai Elantra 01 GLS. The main problem is that the airbag light is on and stays on no matter what. This is my girlfriends old car and she tells me that a couple people told her it had something to do with a faulty/corroded connection or something like that... I have been working on this car for about a year and I am finally to the point where I am just ironing out the little kinks. The old engine was bad along with a lot of other stuff, and I swapped it out for a good motor with less miles on it.
I also have recently replaced the alternator and instrument cluster just to name a couple repairs. Now the two things that I want to get settled are the airbag light and the check engine light. The check engine light comes on sometimes and I am almost positive it either needs a new 02 sensor or cat since when it was ran through a code reader those were the two options my mechanic told me it could be. I also hear a gurgling/crackling faint sound coming from the drivers side dashboard/engine area. I am not sure what this is. How can I get the airbag light off ?
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My 2005 Elantra (what a beauty, cobalt blue) shakes, rattles in the front underneath, an obvious suspension problem. Was told 3 different things by 3 different mechanics. Bad shocks/struts, bad universal joint, bad tie rod.
When I go 50mph it rattles the worst, except for when you hit bumps, but mostly the ride is bumpy all the time. At 65mph, it's smooth. Also, the steering squeaks when car first starts up. Replaced belt, keep wd40 handy, but still does it. Steering strong and seems good otherwise.
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I have a 1998 Saturn with about 270,000 miles. Two weeks ago, I was shifting in and out of reverse and drive, trying to get out of a tight spot in my driveway. Suddenly, I heard some sputtering noises. The transmission started jamming and jarring, rather than shifting. I got out of the car and saw transmission fluid rapidly leaking all over the driveway. I put the car in park, turned it off, and haven't done anything for about two weeks because I had to go out of town.
Now that I'm back at home, I'm trying to assess the situation. I'm not sure if I should spend any money for a mechanic to even diagnose this car because it's only worth a few hundred dollars, if that. I figure that any diagnosis and repair work will probably far exceed the value of the car. I guess the worst case scenario is that the transmission is blown. I would not invest in a new or rebuilt transmission. I suppose the best case scenario is that this is merely a leak that might only require a $2-$300 repair. I don't think I could justify spending upwards of that, $400 or more, on this car.
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I took my 2007 to the dealer yesterday to have spark plugs replaced and both coolants drained and filled. They did this in less than 2 hours. After the service, as I started driving away, I heard very loud gurgling sounds indicating that there was air in the system. When I stopped at a light, the gas engine did not shut off like it normally should, and the entire car was shuddering. When I accelerated again, I got a bunch of emergency lights and the gas engine shut off. I pulled over and turned the car off. When I turned it back on, the only remaining warning lights were the red triangle of death and check engine light. (I didn't see which other lights came on, as I was frantically trying to pull over safely). I managed to limp back to the dealer and I'm awaiting their call.
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My washer fluid leaked out of the bottom of the reservoir and I would like to pull the fuse because it keeps beeping it is low. obviously. I do not have a rear wiper as it is shaved so #27 fuse is out and I was wondering if I pulled # 24 if that would stop the damn sensor or if I can pull something else, maybe just unplug it from the reservoir. I find myself using it never so I wont be fixing it anytime soon.
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Another month and another problem to be resolved. Here goes: The 2001 Passat 1.8T has had a hard life in the past year. The specifics are listed in previous posts. Most recently, the radiator was replaced because the engine was overheating again. The car has been leaking fluid ever since but it is not radiator fluid. Yesterday, I took a look at the oil and found tan gunk mixed in with the oil. I must admit that I had concerns after the fact about the shop that did the last oil change. Is it possible for mechanic to screw up the head gasket while replacing the radiator? It was fine before the repair. Is there another source to look for the seepage into the oil? Basically, the question is - Is the car destined for the graveyard because of this?
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