I drive a 2005 elantra drives smooth until when the temp rises to the middle of the gauge and then it idles more with a racking noise from the engine it happens fast when I drive with the A/C on in the afternoon I have a new radiator tank now.
View 6 Replies2003 Hyundai Elantra.
Driving on the highway and thought I heard a belt squeal. Looked at temp gauge, overheating in the red. Stopped car. Antifreeze on passenger side sprayed around, hard to tell from where.
Waiting a while, put a good amount of water in it as there seemed to be no anti-freeze left. Drove a bit more and it started going up on temp gauge. Pulled off highway on an exit, temp gauge went back down before I could pull over.
So I continued on the highway. The temp gauge would go back up to 3/4, then I'd put it in neutral to cost to a better place to stop, and the gauge would go back to halfway.. continued this for several miles to get home. Never overheated again, but kept getting "hot"(3/4) and dropping back down to normal (1/2)...
So my 2005 elantra gls has been having overheating problems. A few weeks ago, it overheated one day driving around town for about 30 minutes. I kicked on the heater and made it home. I went out the next day and didn't see any problems. Everything went fine for two weeks, then yesterday the problem happened again. I read about the thermostat often failing, so I did some research on that and replaced it today.
For replacing the thermostat, I followed the lower hose and found the housing, removed it and took out the old thermostat. Removed the old gasket, cleaned around the connection, dried it off. Then I put the new thermostat in , put some gasket sealer down and putthe new gasket on. Finally, put some more sealer on the outside of the gasket and put the housing back on.
After replacing it and immediately turning on the car, I got a High Oil Temp code. I cleared the code and let the car idle for while. After about 15 minutes I went for a drive around the neighborhood and then took it out on the highway for about 10 minutes. It started overheating by the time I got home. I turned it off and when starting it again I get the High Oil Temp code.
Is it possible that I didn't do something correctly with the thermostat. If not, what else could I look for and could I have bumped/damaged the oil temp sensor?
I have Elantra GT 2006 with traction control and ABS, disk brakes. The rear right wheel is overheating. Checked if sliding pins are moving. They were fine. With working engine if brake pedal is pressed wheel does not move, pedal is released and wheel can rotate. Three days ago I replaced rear right caliper together with the caliper hose. It did not work. After driving in city for 15-20 minutes right rear wheel will be hot to the point that you cannot hold your hand (left rear and front ones are barely worm). I tried to remove the fuses for ABS and it did not work.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT Hatchback, and it is not going so well with me at the moment. My thermostat works perfectly fine, but my car is overheating. I've taken it to the shop multiple times but still doesn't seem to get fixed. My coolant seems to be fine, and stays at its level, but what doesn't seem to be fine is that it doesn't seem to be sucking strong enough into the radiator so that it can go to the engine! On the lower level coolant cap (one with the hose attached), it seems to be leaking out of there when the car is hot, as if the coolant is trying to suck into the radiator but not strong enough but yet leaks out of it since it isn't strong enough. My theory is, the cap with the hose isn't on tight enough to fully let the coolant suck through the hose, and so air leaks cause the coolant to leak out of it and not into the radiator.
View 7 RepliesMy Girlfriends car over last night, i went and picked her up and found the radiator caps was not on right and the electric fan was unplugged. Fixed both of the those and got about 10 miles and the car still over heats only while under throttle. I pull over and park it starts cooling down. turn on heat seems to work for a moment but it never blows warm air. The check engine light came on and i have got the code P0117, Engine Coolant Temp, circuit low input.
View 2 RepliesLooking for diagnosing an troubling engine noise. Working on a 04 Hyundai Elantra with a 2.0L engine. This is a reman engine installed by the dealer. Engine has ~ 25k on it since install. Orginal one, thrust washer cracked, and crank drove front seal out. So replaced under warranty.
Changed timing belt, tensioner, idler pulleys ~ a month ago. After driving I noticed a whining noise. Said Noise is RPM dependant and sounds like a bearing or belt whine. Loosed all the belts still there. Sounded to be in the area of the water pump.
Changed water pump ~ a week ago, noise still present. Removed all belts from crank pulley and noise still is there. Thought it might be timing belt or idler tensioner pulley even though they were new.
Today changed timing belt and idler/tensioner pulleys with a new Gates set again. Left lower and upper covers off of the timing belt. Whine is still present.
After all this I have narrowed the noise down to internal engine. So my question is this, Is there any common internal engine issues that might cause this. I know this motor does not have a balance shaft so not bearings there to whine. About the only thing left is cam/crank bearing. I might add the noise sounds to be lower in the motor, therefore, thinking bottom end.
I have a Hyundai Elantra 2001 that I just bought off someone. I've had the car maybe 2 weeks, I changed the radiator because it overheated last week. Then, I found out the valve cover was cracked in four places, I replaced those too... I bought and installed a new thermostat, and I thought that would be the end of overheating... I was wrong, last night I felt like I smelled antifreeze strongly, so I parked it and this morning before heading home from work, I checked the radiator, it was empty. I filled it with antifreeze, and headed home, 20 minutes later, I parked on my drive and see that I have a huge leak... and it's antifreeze.
So, seems like I had left the cap open somehow, I didn't close it all the way. That was understandable, so I put some more coolant in it, and took off in the afternoon - 20 minutes into my drive, it starts slowly overheating, I see the gauge going up so I pull over, as soon as I do the car shuts off. I took the keys off the ignition and opened the hood. Now, there's smoke coming off the engine (smoke came from under the valve covers). I gave it 20 minutes rest at least, then added water in the radiator. Turned it on and it worked ok for about 5 minutes, I drove 2 hours to get it home at this rate, stopping every so often. Then, got it home and parked it.
I recently replaced the water pump, timing belt and all other belts in my 2005 Elantra. The car runs great, but there is a whirring/whining noise at idle when I have the car in park and in drive when I'm stopped at a light. You do not hear the noise when I accelerate and you do not hear the noise at any speed above idle.
At idle the whirring/whining noise can be heard whether the A/C is on or off. I have done some research and some causes for a noise like that have been a bad power steering pump, alternator, or pulleys.
The Elantra has 106,300 miles and gives me 26 MPG. I love this car. It has been the most dependable car I have ever owned. I plan to maintain it and hopefully last me for another 100,000 miles.
My 2005 Hyundai Elantra starts immediately, but you hear a clacking noise coming from the right side of the engine. It stops when the car warms up. It sounds as if some part is slapping or banging against something in the engine. The car starts and runs just fine. There is no hesitation at all while driving or when stopped at traffic light.
View 3 RepliesToday, the air conditioning stopped working in my 2003 Elantra. Just stopped blowing cold air. Then the engine thermometer kept on climbing. When I pulled over home, I lifted the hood and heard a lot of bubbling and gurgling sounds, and coolant fluid leaked out underneath the car.
What could be the cause of this? When I let the car stay for a while, the AC did kick back on, but only for a few moments and the thermometer kept on climbing again until I turned the car off. The fan is blowing, I can hear it, but it is obviously not cooling the engine off appropriately.
A few weeks ago I noticed a fluctuation in my car's heater. The heater blows really hot when driving, and blows cold when the car is idling or coasting. I read up on the forums to check the coolant levels, which were full since my last fluid change a few months ago. The next step seemed to be to change the thermostat. I changed the thermostat and the heater acts the same, and since then the car has begun intermittently overheating. The temperature warning will flash on for maybe about a minute, then go back off. I have been running the heater on full blast trying to keep the car from overheating.
This brings me to a couple of questions:
There's an arrow on the thermostat. Does this need to point toward the radiator, or straight up?
In moving the air cleaner housing to get to the thermostat, I lost two of the little clips that hold it shut. Is this critical?
If the thermostat is good, and the coolant levels are good, there's no air in the system and I don't have any leaks, what could this be?
Engine will overheat unless I turn the AC on. The engine fan only operates with the ac on it seems.
Will not overheat unless in traffic for a while.
Would it be radiator thermo switch or the Fan Control Module?
Another month and another problem to be resolved. Here goes: The 2001 Passat 1.8T has had a hard life in the past year. The specifics are listed in previous posts. Most recently, the radiator was replaced because the engine was overheating again. The car has been leaking fluid ever since but it is not radiator fluid. Yesterday, I took a look at the oil and found tan gunk mixed in with the oil. I must admit that I had concerns after the fact about the shop that did the last oil change. Is it possible for mechanic to screw up the head gasket while replacing the radiator? It was fine before the repair. Is there another source to look for the seepage into the oil? Basically, the question is - Is the car destined for the graveyard because of this?
View 9 RepliesI drive a 2001 Honda Civic EX and have over 248,000 miles. Almost at a quarter million! Recently, the engine has been overheating. The coolant has been leaking and the coolant reservoir would becomes full. I've checked out the fan and the fan relay and both seem to be fine. The temperature seems to increase (to redline) during traffic jams and any times of idling. When I blast on the air conditioning, the temperature seems to decrease, but would later increase when the car idles. The temperature also decreases to normal when I sustain my speeds over ~60mph. Also, the temperature will fluctuate from cold to hot to cold. What does this all mean?
View 4 Replies2001 Jeep Cherokee sport ... Just bought this Jeep with 145K miles. Had radiator and all hoses replaced. The overflow tank is boiling over but the engine is not overheating. Safe to drive? What should I be checking for?
View 13 RepliesMy temperature has been randomly dropping, them back to middle, and recently my engine was overheating because I'm guessing the fans didn't turn on, because I'm also guessing, the engine didn't know it was overheating?
Anywho, during my replacement, I made sure to get rid of the pressure, and the car was cold. I tightened the cap again, but when I took the sensor out, all the coolant spewed out.
Now if I understand this correctly, do I have a leak? I figured the leak I had was coming from the temp sensor as it is.
Here's some pictures for those who'd like to see ....
I drive a 2002 Mazda Protege and it's been great to me until this past weekend. I had a 4.5-5 hour trip ahead of me and Google Maps told me a more direct route (i.e. not using the interstates) would save time. It must have erroneously assumed that the highway comprising basically the entire trip would be speed limit 55-65 the entire way. Instead, I found myself slowing down to stoplights and stop signs in small villages between 15-minute sprints. At some point, the interior heat stops - the air being pulled in from outside is not being warmed at all, no matter what settings I fiddle with. Not long thereafter I notice a rattling noise behind the dash. From inside the car it sounds almost like an animal skittering around in the chassis - irregular, short and clipped. With the hood up and an ear to the engine, it sounds like a piece of plastic fluttering in the wind, but with a faint electric "crackling" quality. Soon thereafter the check-engine light illuminates.
Before long the engine overheats and I pull over to the side of the road. Nothing appears to be leaking, and the crackling sound is the only thing noticable. Being in the middle of nowhere, I jumped back in and proceeded to drive at about 35-40, which was warm on the engine but enough to get me to a small town. At this point I checked the coolant reservoir and it was empty. Bought some from Wal-mart, poured it in, and headed out. Things looked fine at first since the engine had sat cold while I was running errands, but pretty soon it was overheating again at speeds as low as 30mph. After getting it towed to my destination, I took it to a garage the next morning. They couldn't find anything wrong with it, and indeed when I drove it back to the hotel that morning the engine behaved normally, the check-engine light was off, and the interior heating was functioning properly.
The next morning, when it was time to depart (but again after an entire night of sitting in the cold), a 20 minute drive to breakfast was smooth as before. Thinking that the mechanic had either waved a magic wand or I'd gotten extremely lucky, I hit the highway and did 65 for a good 20 minutes until the engine began to overheat again. Slowing down to 45 bought a few more minutes to find an exit, but eventually I had to pull over. Popping the hood, I notice the coolant in the reservoir is bubbling to the top! Thinking the mechanic might have added more and overfilled it, I cursed him in absentia. After a good fifteen minutes of cooling off, the coolant settled and in fact drained the reservoir entirely; I refilled it to the line and, again being in rural snowtopia with few options, decided to hit the road again. Not wanting to tempt fate, I stuck to 55mph and the car ran fine for an hour and a half (with the interior heat blasting, per a friend's advice). I stopped once to check the coolant and all was as it should have been - just below the line I'd filled it to earlier. Closer to a city, I decided to experiment again and took the speed up to 60mph.
This was great for 20-30 minutes but eventually the engine began overheating ever-so-slowly and I had to pull over, let it cool off, and replace another full reservoir's worth of coolant that had disappeared before I kept going. I drove the rest of the way home going no faster than 55mph and stopping on occasion to check the coolant. It overheated once even while doing 55mph, but a 15 minute break + coolant refill bought it the rest of the trip. In summary: Although not 100% correlated, going faster than 55mph seems to trigger the engine overheating, at which point the rattling noise appears and the coolant begins to bubble its way back up the reservoir (like it's boiling?!). I'm not sure how the coolant is disappearing because I'm unable to find any leak, nor is there any extra exhaust that would suggest it's burning.
I have used this forum to look up everything I've needed to since I bought my 05 F250 FX4 6.0 brand new. I was pulling our brand new camper in 100* heat. I began to hear a clicking from the truck from the engine compartment that would be right by the turbo. My engine started overheating, but I had no smoke (black or white). The engine cooled down after I was done climbing the hills, but I had feathering from by the air cleaner and the clicking/chirping was still present.
I pulled over to let the truck cool and checked my coolant reservoir. While pulling over, I lost accelerator pedal responsiveness. The turbo was also engaging a lot. I pulled over. Put the truck in park, but left it idling. As I was looking around under the hood, the truck died. I have not been able to start it. (This all happened Saturday). The truck is 20 miles from home, and I've been out tinkering every day. Here is what I know:
1) I have 48 volts to the FICM.
2) I have tried to start it early in the morning and in the evening when temperatures were low.
3) When I crank, I do get oil pressure from the instrument cluster.
4) The oil level is at the correct markings on the dip stick.
5) Using my scanguage II, I have verified an IPR reading of 14.8. As I crank, it goes up to 84.7. My ICP reading is all over the place. It always gets to above 500, yet it with the key off - engine off, I get a reading higher than zero. With the key-on I go from 300 to 500 and to over 1000 with out the think even hinting at starting.
6) I have oil in the oil filter housing.
7) I have fuel in the upper fuel filter housing bowl.
8)The batteries and alternator have all passed load testing.
9)I tried to start the truck with the ICP disconnected, and didn't have any luck.
10) I have no codes set or pending.
I am at a loss. I don't want to start throwing $$ at various parts.
This morning I was on my way to work, I stopped at a stop sign then accelerated and turned right, a couple of seconds after that I heard a snapping noise, that sounded like it came from underneath the car, immediately followed by a huge cloud of what I believe was smoke at which time my car began making a noise similar to when you touch spinning blades of a fan. I got over in the grass as fast as I could and turned off the engine.
The smoke cleared and all the noise stopped. When I looked under the hood I couldn't see anything odd but when I looked under the car I noticed liquid dripping out pretty quickly, thought maybe Id blown a hose. Later when the tow truck got there the guy noticed a trail of oil in the grass where I pulled off, and sure enough it was in the road too. I am hoping I cut the engine off quickly enough before it did anymore damage!
A little background, I bought this car used 9 months ago. It has about 130,000 miles on it. 2 months ago I had to replace the intake manifold gasket but before I got to that conclusion I replaced spark plugs and the TPS.
1 month ago I took my car to get the oil changed and the guy said my oil pan had an over-sized drain plug which is used when the original is striped out. He wouldn't remove it and evacuated the oil from the top and told me this needed to be done every time I had my oil changed from now on. I wish I had known that before I changed the oil myself on the previous oil change. I knew it was leaking a little after I did the change but didn't know the reason behind it.
Just wondering to diagnose the noise my manual 2002 is making when I engage a gear.
Generally, it'll clank every single time I put the gear in gear. I.e. clutch down (quiet), shift into gear (clank), lift clutch up (clank).
Very annoying; has been happening basically since I bought the car (but obviously not when I test drove it!)
I do not think it's a motor mount, especially since I wouldn't think that moving the gear into gear (before lifting clutch back up) would cause the motor to shift enough to make the mount clank. If at all...
Anyway, here is a link to a YouTube video I've uploaded. Every time you hear a clank, I'm simply lifting the clutch to engage the gear. I do this quite a few times going forward and backward. [URL] .....