I have manual shift and the clutch is worn out. when in motion if I press the pedal the rpms jump but the car does not accelerate. only way to accelerate is to press very gently.
Q: do I always need to change the flywheel, which is expensive or changing just the clutch will do??
My 2003 Elantra has multi spark (quad) electrodes? I have a hesitation on acceleration problem. Also feel resistance when pressing the gas pedal. I am going to change the plugs and wires. Just wondering if the type of plugs may contribute to the problem.
View 9 RepliesSo my girlfriend has an 04 elantra 2.0... the car will be running fine but then after so long of driving(maybe 15, 20mins) itll start acting strange..
It will hesitate to accelerate and shift hard and at higher rpms. Then at cruising speed it will turn off instantly(no sputter, hesitation, almost as if you just turned the key off). Seconds later the engine will come back but the gauges die and the engine will remain on.
At that point i pulled over and as i was on the brakes the car died when I came to a complete stop. Once the car completely turned off it would not start back up. However jump starting it got it going. The car is not throwing any codes.
2002 Elantra auto trans issue.
We are experiencing NO throttle after the car sits over night. But Not every time. When I write "NO throttle" the car will start but will not increase rpms with pedal input/movement. Runs at idle only. After a few minutes, it picks up the pedal input and is fine until is sits over night, sometimes.
I have changed out the TPS and no change. The car has just over 80000 miles and otherwise runs like a champ. There is no check engine light or any stored codes. The cable rotates freely at the TB. I read in the forums that the TPS replacements can be suspect.
My Hyundai Avante (2011 model 1.6) suddenly loses acceleration while my foot is still pressing on the gas pedal. Every time that happens I have to raise my foot from the gas pedal and press it again to make the car accelerate. This thing happens randomly, but mostly at speed lower than 80 Km/h
I tested the car on an empty road once; I didn't raise my foot from the gas pedal this time when the car lost acceleration. The car speed dropped to zero and the RPM gauge returned to idle (i.e. around 1000 RPM).
The check engine never light up during or even after this thing occurs. Here is the list of things the mechanic tried on my car:
1-Cleaned the body throttle
2- Tested the car with another used body throttle
2- Tested the car with another used gas pedal
3-Check the fuel pressure and injection
4- Checked the sparks
5- Tested the car onboard computer.
None of the above worked!!! Here is the strange thing my mechanic discovered, if he unplugs the cable of the Anti-lock braking system in the car. The problem never occurs.
I have been driving the car for two weeks, with the ABS system unplugged. The loss of acceleration problem never happens. I am not sure what the ABS has got to do with the car acceleration.
We have a 2006 Santa Fe Hyunda with 100,000 miles that when we hit 80 mph on the highway the rpms drop to zero and stay there. We just had the camshaft and crankshaft replaced. Why this is happening?"
View 3 RepliesDo I have to press a button on the ultimate lockpick every time I want to use the navigation while in motion? If I do have to press a button is there any module out there that will allow me to use the navigation while in motion without having to press a button?
View 9 RepliesWhen I so this its like pressing in the clutch and revving it but my car is an automatic. During the upshift and downshift there is no jerking or hard shifting so I would assume this is OK? And is full throttling your car every few days bad or good?
View 10 RepliesAlmost two weeks ago, I began to have a problem with my car. (2001 Elantra) At times it acted like it was about to stall as I was driving up the smallest incline. Once I got up the incline, my car would jump gears. (second to third, so on)...
The car was taken to Advanced Auto where I received codes about the catalytic converter and the output sensor. I've known about the converter since I bought the car last year and the sensor was replaced. But I am still having problems with the car. My friend is literally having to drive it like it was a stick.
We fear it might be the transmission as I you can go in reverse with no problem. What it could be instead of the transmission?
So I just bought a 2002 Elantra with 72k on the clock (legitimate) and I'm having issues where the car will start fine in the morning and idle normally, however, say I come back to go somewhere else about two hours later, when I start it the car will rev up to 3k and stay there for about 3 seconds and jump down to normal idle speed. What's the issue?
View 7 RepliesI have recently had some problems with my 2001 Yukon, it a 5.3L and has 4x4. when I accelerate I get about 2000 RPMs maybe and can barely get above 35mph. I brought it to a local dealer for a diagnosis and was told I had a bad catalytic converter, four bad O2 sensors and bad injector connectors. I've replaced the injector connectors but its still acting up. I don't want to spend the 700-1000 on a new catalytic converter when I can just replace the sensors.
View 4 RepliesI might bring up a couple issues I've been having with my 2001 elantra gls manual recently.
The big one: Recently, if I accelerate aggressively or even moderately (passing someone or merging onto the freeway), there will be no power to the wheels and the car will rev into the 4K's and will not accelerate until I let off the pedal and am in the 2500 range. Then I can accelerate ever so slowly through the gears or risk being "disconnected". If that even makes sense. Basically, I shift into gear, accelerate, if I accelerate too fast (which is not fast at all) it "goes into neutral" and revs up to 4K and above until it falls back to 2500 or so.
The other problem is that my dash lights keep going on and off. Only some of them, and if I bash my dash they'll sometimes come back on. I checked for loose wiring. Non to be found.
My 2005 Elantra is jerking soon after I accelerate. It does not jerk at any other time. It's not a hard jerk. Sometimes it doesn't jerk at all after acceleration. When it does jerk, the rpm jumps up too, and goes back down after the jerk.
I took it to a transmission shop and they checked the fluid and used a diagnostic thing to check the electrical components, all of which were fine. Is there another possible reason for this jerking?
The RPMs while driving does up and down. You can feel the engine doing this. You can watch the Tac go up and down. Whats the problem. We just brought a TP sensor but I say its a vacuum leak.
View 11 RepliesMy '02 Elantra would have a hard time starting up in the winter right after I filled the gas to full. Usually I would have to give it some gas to startup. After that, it didn't have problems starting up until I filled it again. This was only in the winter.
About a month and a half ago, it became really slow to accelerate. Since the O2 sensor light had been on constantly for a long time I never bothered to check it. Soon the car became really slow to accelerate and would lunge forward in spurts. The error codes I got were P0133 and the O2 sensor. I replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires, and this seemed to do the trick. The check engine light went away, the car sped up nice and quick. Also at that time, I put in some fuel injector cleaner.
The a couple weeks ago, P0133 and P0420 came back. It seems like the car is using up more gas than it should. There is a very minimal sluggish response when I push the gas. I have a spare ignition coil, but trying to find what it could be more specifically before I swap out more parts willy nilly.
I have an 01 Elantra Gls with perplexing issues. The car starts at 3000 rpms, and continues to bounce between 2k and 3.5k in both park and neutral. when I put it in reverse i get a very hard shift. It actually jerks the whole car. in drive and reverse, it idles around 1.5k it hesitates quite a bit to accelerate. All fluid levels are right and don't smell burnt. it takes me 10 mins to put 4 gallons of gas in. if i pump too fast it shoots back at me. i randomly smell gas while driving. Im hoping these problems are a couple of issue I can handle at home. i just wanted some input before i buy the manual. thinking vacuum lines maf sensor.
View 7 RepliesI've been having problems with my '02 Elantra. It shudders and doesn't accelerate well (or at all) going up hill, or attempting to accelerate quickly (like passing a car on the interstate). If I try to push it through these situations it will run worse, engine light flashes, and sometimes will stall. In the past, when it stalled, it would start up again in about 30mins or so.
Codes it has thrown were P0304, P0303, and P0420.
When I took it to mechanic, he really couldn't figure it out. He ended up testing and replacing fuel pump motor in November. Got it back and within a few days it was throwing same codes and having same symptoms.
Everything else from this point as been DIY. I bought a manual, researched these forums, learned as I went, and did the following myself:
I changed the spark plugs and wires. Still ran as described above but at this point when the engine light comes on, I am only down to the P0304 code right now.
Thought perhaps it was a vacuum leak. I have very few tools, and Autozone said I could use seafoam as a means to tell if I had a leak if smoke came out of vacuum lines as I put it in. I tried this, none came out of vacuum lines that I could tell. I drove it after seafoam, some white smoke came out tail pipe from solution but dissipated after driving a little while, and then I had the shuddering issues and loss of power while driving the interstate. It literally would act like I wasn't pressing the gas peddle, then suddenly surge as if it realized I was... engine continued to run until I pulled over and then it stalled. Normally it would start right back up after 30mins or so. But this time it didn't, I had to tow it home.
With a crap load of starter fluid and jamming the gas pedal, I finally got it to start. It ran horribly at idle, had a weird knock. So I didn't drive it and did the following instead.
I replaced the coil pack.
Replaced crank position sensor.
I confirmed that I have spark on all 4 cylinders.
There are no obvious oil leaks (nothing on garage floor and I don't see any obvious signs of wet oil on engine or smoke when it runs)
Temperature is fine, coolant level is normal & hasn't needed refill or topping off.
I pulled the fuel pump again, noticed that the fuel sock had holes and was full of muddy/pasty type crap. Gas was dark, cloudy in spots, and appeared to separate in some areas.
Replaced fuel sock.
Syphoned gas.
Thoroughly cleaned out gas tank.
Put premium gas in.
Manually cleaned fuel injectors.
Reassembled and it started right up, runs strong, no more weird knock, but the other symptoms start to reappear... the shuddering, loss of power, and stalling. Its intermittent... sometimes when I jam on the gas peddle, sometimes when I'm cruising at low speeds. I can force it to stall by jamming on the gas peddle to the floor, acts like it's choking, engine light flashes, lose power, then it stalls. Pretty much every time I push it like that.
I can continue to limp it to Autozone for codes, but the engine light currently isn't on.... and it usually takes it a hard drive pushing it through the symptoms for the light to appear, and it's always been the P0304 code at this point.
Is there anything else I can do from home with no special testing equipment?
Is there a part or sensor that would cause these symptoms and NOT throw a code other than the misfire?
When I married my wife two Fridays ago I also married in to her 2006 GLS Elantra.
It has pretty bad ticking which varies with RPMS, and how warm the car is, but is always there at lower RPMS. This has gotten worse the past for weeks, but that may be because she is longer into an oil change, and the filter isn't a great filter.
I am trying to do some research, but the search function appears to bring up items from all the different forums on the site.
Does this engine have solid lifter or hydraulic lifters? I am going to try a few oil changes with some seafoam and a quality filter first.
If that doesn't work how involved is it to replace the valve adjusters, or remove and clean?
I need to keep this car alive for a while, it is in overall great condition, 130k miles, everything works, doesn't smoke, doesn't leak oil, transmission is solid.
All that is wrong is the noisy valve train!
Can't run a/c rpms drop to almost 200 from 1200-1500rpms. Really bad when at at traffic light. I have to constantly press gas pedal.
View 5 RepliesThis car has turned into a bad dream. When it first starts in runs well for a mile or so until it warms all the way up. Then it goes into starvation mode and won't accelerate. Maybe a cough or two then it runs fine for 10 or so seconds. And goes back to stumbling. Most times I have to pull over out of traffic and wait for it to so call catch again.
I have changed plugs, wires, coil rack & fuel pump module. Because someone else looked at it before I did, they erased stored codes. I have pulled 2 codes on 2 different occasions. The first was P0134 the second was P1166. Other times no codes were stored. I did notice that if I shut off ignition & restart it runs great for 10 or 15 seconds.
My 2004 Elantra occasionally won't start. When I hold the ignition on Start, the radio loses power (but the dashboard doesn't) and nothing else happens. Sometimes, tapping the gas pedal will suddenly cause the car to start. Once, I had to stomp the pedal to the floor before it would work.
I just replaced the battery (and positive cable end since it was corroded in place) and recently replaced the spark plugs (which were badly burnt). There is a check engine code for "catalyst underperforming" which seems unrelated.
I suspect my car has fuel delivery problems. It occasionally sputters while idling and often has power loss while driving if I try to accelerate hard. It seems to have trouble shifting into 4th gear from 3rd or 5th, but that may be another issue entirely.
What I should check to diagnose this, or replace to resolve it?