My 2005 elantra hvt 2.0 has oil leaking into the air filter coming through or near the throttle body, I've been told its an egr valve.
If it is...where is it and how much for a new one and is it an easy fix? If not what could be causing the leak?
What Is that little hose for? I can Smell the gasoline whenever i start the car in the morning. It is cracked But i recently heard a z-zzing Under the hood. Is it an expensive hose? What about the hose clamp.. it looks weird.. is its special for that application ? I wanna replace it myself but I don't want to do it wrong and turn my car on fire.
View 4 RepliesEver see the round plug on top of the throttle body pop out and leak coolant?
View 1 RepliesI have been having the dredded EPC light coming on and according to the vag scan its the throotle body. What I need to know is if one off a 2003 2.0 jetta will work on my 2004 2.0 jetta. The number on the side of mine 06A 133 062s is not the same number on the 03. I was told that they must match to work properly.
View 2 RepliesSo starting with the specs: I have a Stage III+ Golf R with about 39k Miles on it. Stage III+ was added at 17k miles and has treated me pretty good. The car is driven about 3 days a week and has the oil change interval of 3k miles.
Things that I've checked or done recently:
- Cam Follower: Wasn't too bad but seemed like the outer coating was wearing off on it so I replaced it.
- Oil change: Changed the oil about 1 week ago but hadn't driven it since then until yesterday were we did about a 50 mile road trip. (No unusual things noticed)
When we came back home and parked in the garage, I noticed the sound when I turned the ignition off. It was pretty noticeable as you will see in the video. Could I possibly have a bad throttle body on my hands?
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I have a Hyundai Elantra 2001 that I just bought off someone. I've had the car maybe 2 weeks, I changed the radiator because it overheated last week. Then, I found out the valve cover was cracked in four places, I replaced those too... I bought and installed a new thermostat, and I thought that would be the end of overheating... I was wrong, last night I felt like I smelled antifreeze strongly, so I parked it and this morning before heading home from work, I checked the radiator, it was empty. I filled it with antifreeze, and headed home, 20 minutes later, I parked on my drive and see that I have a huge leak... and it's antifreeze.
So, seems like I had left the cap open somehow, I didn't close it all the way. That was understandable, so I put some more coolant in it, and took off in the afternoon - 20 minutes into my drive, it starts slowly overheating, I see the gauge going up so I pull over, as soon as I do the car shuts off. I took the keys off the ignition and opened the hood. Now, there's smoke coming off the engine (smoke came from under the valve covers). I gave it 20 minutes rest at least, then added water in the radiator. Turned it on and it worked ok for about 5 minutes, I drove 2 hours to get it home at this rate, stopping every so often. Then, got it home and parked it.
Obviously its not a good thing, but this seems a little severe for a truck that hasnt had any issues prior. The truck is a 1998 F150 4.6 and was running just fine until POP!! A puff of grey smoke coming from the throttle body and followed by (obviously) a rough idle. So basically, I know that any metal fragments were directly sucked into the intake and based on the size of the chipped area (roughly 1.5cm). I am wondering what type of internal damage this would (or already has) caused.
View 3 RepliesI was driving down the road and the car was driving great. all of the sudden I heard a clunk and the car lost power and started shuddering. I made it home and cut the car off. When I start it now, the car runs rough and stalls out. I can't get it to a place to check the codes so I am trying to self diagnose. I was thinking it might be the MAF so I took it out and cleaned it well. there is still no change in the way the car runs. it seems like the fuel isn't getting to the engine as I put my foot on the gas pedal it stalls out. I'm not too excited about buying a throttle body if it's the MAF. It could possibly be something else.
View 1 RepliesI brought my Prius, 128,000 miles, into the dealer with the check engine light on. Runs fine, and checked the gas cap. Toyota dealer said they need to replace 4 fuel injectors, replace oxygen sensor, and clean the throttle body. Check engine light needs to be off so I can pass emission test.
View 8 Replies2006 Honda CRV, throttle by wire. How can you get the throttle plate open to clean the throttle body etc.
View 4 RepliesI could smell fuel so I popped the hood to look for a leak. On top of the filter housing cover fuel was puddled in the little nooks and crannies of the black cover and some had leaked over the side into the valley between the heads. Is this a common leak? How in the world did fuel get on top of the cover but not on the hood insulator cover?
Also, just bought this not too long ago and the po said he had just done the fuel filter service on it. The gasket seemed pretty flimsy and weak and didn't really fit the gasket surface. Although I'm used to my cummins powered trucks and they use a o-ring to seal the housing cover. 2001 excursion 7.3
I have a 2001 f250 7.3l 4x4 and the fuel filter housing is leaking real bad from either the back or under it. I need to get info on parts that i would need as well.
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Replaced fuel filter. Got all 4 washers plus cap from old filter. Engine won't start. Saw there is a fifth rubber washer that nobody mentions anywhere and transferred that to the new pump. still won't run.
When I turn the key to On, I can hear the pump turn on for 2 secs and stop. if I do this 5-6 times and then try to start, engine will start and then die immediately. seems the pump is not pumping when the engine tries to run. it pumps only for two secs when the key goes from Off to On position.
There are two lines going to the pump. which one feeds the engine. if I disconnect that line, should I see fuel coming out when I turn the key and try to start the engine?? or is there a better place to disconnect closer to the engine??
I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 96,000 miles and a brand new 2015 Hyundai Elantra.
It had been randomly sputtering for a couple of weeks before this and I thought that the fuel filter/pump was going out. So, I replaced that and when I turn the ignition on gas squirts out of the fuel pump so I know that is working. I then replaced the spark plugs because I don't think they had ever been replaced, but it still won't start.
When I turn the key everything sounds good, but it just won't start. I am trying to avoid having it towed to the shop until I exhaust the ability to fix it myself.
My 04 Elantra GT hatch is my lifetime favorite car. Especially like the rear seats that fold flat. It has 104k miles, but I want to keep it going.
Day before yesterday the blower started making loud noises. I took car back to Pepboys who replaced the cabin air filter they put in a month ago. They had installed it incorrectly, and it shredded with a 6 inch hole in the middle, and paper everywhere. When I left, the fan was not making any unusual noises.
Yesterday I drove 20 minutes on freeway, stopped to shop, started driving, and turned on fan. Immediately the check light went on. Back to Pepboys, service manager said check was P0501 and was a transmission speed sensor that couldn't be related to the filter mess.
Last night I found the Hyundai forum and I read in a post that this is a wheel speed sensor that would be located in the right front wheel and well not far from the cabin filter. Is it possible that the debris from the fan/filter collision has affected this speed sensor? Or is this just a very untimely coincidence?
I know nothing about automobiles. What I should do next and thereafter? Is it safe to drive this car as usual until the problem is fixed?
I can get it started and let it idle for an hour....idles smoothe. As soon as I try to move the car or step on the throttle...it stalls.
View 2 RepliesI just changed timing belt all accessory belts and water pump on my 2001 Hyundai Elantra. Now the check engine light is on and it is sluggish in throttle response. It sounds smooth. I was quite sure I had the cam and crank marks dead on. I turned it 2 revolutions by hand and they both looked dead on before I started it. If I were off 1 or 2 teeth would that be the cause? And if so how do I fix it? Also will it hurt it to drive it that way?
View 2 RepliesWhen I so this its like pressing in the clutch and revving it but my car is an automatic. During the upshift and downshift there is no jerking or hard shifting so I would assume this is OK? And is full throttling your car every few days bad or good?
View 10 RepliesSo while driving yesterday I had a EPC and Check eng light come on and go away shortly after... maybe 1hr of drive time. Any way I took into dealer today to have them scan and they stated it was an issue with my throttle body.
Now as soon as he told me that he also said he can not do any work under warranty on my engine due to Stage 2 software and intake/down&mid pipe...... no big deal as I figured he would say something like that anyway. Should I take it apart and try to get it cleaned..... or what?
Its a 2010, with roughly 21k miles.... Had APR stage 2 for a few months now and this is the first thing that has come up.
My Girlfriends car over last night, i went and picked her up and found the radiator caps was not on right and the electric fan was unplugged. Fixed both of the those and got about 10 miles and the car still over heats only while under throttle. I pull over and park it starts cooling down. turn on heat seems to work for a moment but it never blows warm air. The check engine light came on and i have got the code P0117, Engine Coolant Temp, circuit low input.
View 2 RepliesSo i recently bought a used 2003 camry le 4cyl with 72k miles on it. So it's still in good condition. Previously I had a 92 camry 4cyl which is run with throttle cable. The new generation camry's now are drive by wire or driven electronically. So I decided to check out the whole car and looked into the throttle body, the out side of the butterfly plate, and notice some thick black substance. It seems like grease or oil. I don't know if its there to lubricate the motor to run the plate or just oil.
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