Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Occasional Thumping Noise From The Rear - Motor Mounts?
Jan 31, 2016
Have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra 2.0, 4-dr sedan, with 120,000 ,miles on it. Since we bought it in 2007, there occasionally was a thumping noise, seemed like from the rear. Well now, I have just about changed everything you can think of on this engine. But when I put in gear, or am stopped at red light the cars idle is terrible, runs very rough. Someone said maybe the motor mounts? If so how can I tell, approx cost, and are there only the two?
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I have a 04 elantra and its driving me up a wall. when driving first thing till the trans warms up it has a harsh shift between 2-3 gears and its rough like all the motor mounts are bad and you dump a clutch. i have tried the tsb reflash and the adaptive learn still did it, Replaced the trans twice reflashed the computer after the last trans and redid the adaptive learn twice fist time at cold temp then redid the learn with the trans at full operating temp.
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I have a 2002 santa fe 2.7. I just had the transmission rebuilt and since then have noticed a clunking sound when I shift into drive or reverse. It seems to be the lower motor mount is making noise from the motor moving the mount. I look at the mount and it appears to look good, but was wondering how I can really tell if a motor mount needs replacing or not.
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I have a Hyundai Elantra XD 2004 FX hatch. About 3 weeks ago we noticed that there was an occasional rough change in the transmission. It happens mostly between gears 3 and 4, but can happen outside these gear also.
I have checked the fluid level and it always seems low. Over the last 3 weeks I purchased some transmission fluid (I used the Castrol brand for that specific car as looked up by the spare parts shop) and the problem hasn't got any better. On top of that despite adding a total of 800mL over the last couple of weeks it still doesn't appear to register between the cold and hot level on the dipstick.
I've looked around for leaks and can't seem to find any, there were a couple of drops underneath the car but I can't say for sure they are transmission fluid, I'll have to check this again soon (it's a bit difficult as it's not my car it's my wife's and when she gets home it's dark). Either way it's only a couple of drops at worst.
What this might be, and what the process I should follow to diagnose it is? If it's anything besides a leak in a hose then I'll definitely be taking it to a mechanic/transmission specialist.
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Dealing with mother in law's 01 Elantra GT. 175k miles, unknown history for the most part except for recent maintenance.
Having some issues now. The car will not start..the battery is fine and that is ruled out. The car will intermittently not crank...it could be days, but luckily I have the car today and the situation is currently happening. All my dash lights and electricals work fine.
It is an automatic car.
Brake lights work when pressing the pedal. I looked at the switch near the pedal and it appears to function properly but see below.
When I turn the key, I can hear noise from the cruise control module underneath the hood, but nothing else. No clicking, no crank. Dash lights don't change except the clock fades out, but turns back on when key is off the start position.
I thought maybe something with shifter. In the Run key position, I can sometimes shift it out of park and into another gear...but sometimes not. It seems that changing how I press the brake pedal affects whether I can get it out of park.
The car was perfectly fine earlier today and that is why this is so strange. Sometimes it would leave her stranded, sometimes it works fine.
When I do shift out of gear, the dashboard reflects the proper gear on the digital display.
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I took my 2010 Elantra to a shop to have a four wheel alignment done because my tires were showing unusual wear and I had the thumping road noise. My mechanic has a new computerized alignment system. He told me that my right rear wheel could not be aligned to factory specification because Hyundai did include a means to adjust by the amount needed. My car only has 63,000 miles on it.
I did some research and found that there are many people who are having the same problem with their Elantras. It causes excessive tire wear and that annoying thumping. Some shops have fixed the problem with non specific shims while Moog has come has come out with an adjustable arm that replaces one in the suspension so the camber can be adjusted.
I complained to Hyundai customer service about it and asked them why they made the rear end so it couldn't be aligned. They don't seem willing to admit that this is a chronic issue, possibly even a safety issue that needs to be addressed. So, I have to take my alignment readout to my dealer so they can look at and check the alignment problem for themselves which is most likely just a run around tactic.
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I bought an 89 celica gt back in december of last 2010. and my motor mounts recently went out on me and i was wonder how difficult it would be and exactly how many motor mounts does my car have? I am fairly new to car repair.
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2002 Passat 1.8T 170,000. My motor mounts have been slowly going bad for a few months now and they are now to the point where when I am slowing down as it is shifting down into third, it feels like I am being rear ended. My question is, is this doing damage to my engine and tranny or is it more of an annoyance.
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I recently found out my motor mounts are bad. Almost a year ago I noticed I was leaking coolant so I just filled it with water every time it was empty. Now I have been getting an overheating problem if it's not filled to the right amount. Just yesterday the problem got worse as there is green gunk at the opening of the radiator and it's always hot. The reservoir is filling up with hot water a lot of the time. My radiator will be empty when that happens. As I was driving the gauge was reading hot. Turning on the heater didn't work much. I tested it tonight, with the radiator full and 2 cups water in reservoir. Drove it a few blocks and turned off car. Radiator had lots of pressure and hot. The reservoir was same level.
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra GLS Sedan, 6 speed manual with 65,000 miles. I recently bought a new set of wheels for my car brand new. I had tires mounted and balanced. I brought them home and installed them on my car myself and had no problems, this was about 3 thousand miles ago (1 month). 2 days ago I went down for my first oil change and tire rotation since getting the new wheels. The technician who I trusted suggested I balance the two rear wheels when bringing them to the front, so I went ahead and let them do that.
When I left the shop I noticed the front left wheel had a "thumping" sound when driving, as if there was a large nail hitting the ground every time the wheel went around. You can feel this in the floor. I just went back today to the shop to have them look at it and they too can feel it when driving. They put my car on the lift and while in gear they said they noticed the left front CV joint turning but it was not straight. It wobbled a bit. They showed me the play in it when pushing it up and down and said that it was not normal.
They were not trying to get me to replace them, the mechanics actually suggested I went to the Hyundai dealer to have it looked at. I'm replacing my front brakes tonight and I will be rotating that tire to the rear again to see what happens. I'm just curious as whether the play we noticed in the CV joint is normal, if they could have screwed up the tire balance somehow (which they did not recheck) or if the CV wobble could possibly be normal. I'll be switching that tire to the back and if the vibration is in the rear it will be going back down to Monro muffler and brake. If the problem remains in the front I will be visiting the Hyundai dealer.
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I have a little vibration from the motor mounts which disappears with an extra soft touch on the gas pedal at idle. If I would keep the car I would change the mounts, but there are a lot of new parts already....I cleaned inside the plenum.....
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I am feeling more vibration at idle than I believe I've felt in the past. I can feel it in the seat more than I remember before. Granted, it's not like the car is shaking or anything, but I can feel it more than I think I should. Could this be the motor mounts?
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I had my motor mounts replaced about 2 weeks ago with APR ones and noticed that vibrates more than before at idle. is this normal? One guy told me that it takes about a month for the new motor mounts to adjust and then it will not vibrate that much. after two weeks no changes. Also I noticed that they did not put the rubber cover on the left motor mount (passenger side) could this missing rubber cover bring any issues on the short term?
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2003 Elantra GT ... Yesterday I went out and heard a sort of grinding noise from the rear. I thought it was the brakes. This morning I took it to a mechanic and he said it was the brake pad rubbing on some rust on the rotor.
This evening my wife took the car out and, in addition to the sound, said she smelled burning rubber. So I took it out and after a while figured out it is the bottom of wheel coil (see photo) on the rear driver side rubbing against the tire! I assume the mechanic didn't spot it because it may move out of contact with the tire when the car is lifted up. What happened here?
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My local dealer had a special on an oil change, tire rotations, and break inspection and my 2011 Elantra GLS auto w/ 20k miles was due so I took it in.
After I got it back I noticed a noise I had never heard before when reaching speeds above 45mph. The best word to describe it would be "thumping".
I figured maybe due to the rotation the tires might need to settle in, but I've drove about 50 miles since getting it back and the noise isn't even slightly going away.
The worse part is my avg. MPG went from easily/consistently being 40+ down to low 38/high 37.
Should I just give it some more time or start to worry the service guys messed something up? Until today it's been the perfect car.
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When driving forward on my driveway there is no noise. But, when backing up the creaking noise is coming from the drivers side rear tire.
With the rear tires off the ground I rotated the tire forwards/backwards, no noise. Removed the lug nuts/wheel cover and found out that the steel rim has several cracks in it. I never heard of that, but searched on the web and found out this is caused by potholes, curbs and metal fatigue.
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I'm suspecting that my motor mounts are going bad, but I'm not 100% sure. I have a video of the engine movement when slipping the clutch and revving the engine with the e-brake on. [URL]............................... I don't need high performance ones, but don't want to spend a ton on OEM ones either.
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So ever since i put stiffer motors mounts in my car, the trans has whined. It was perfectly fine before the new motor mounts.
Its not nearly as loud as what straight cut gears sound like....but after taking my car on a road trip to Atlantic City this weekend, it does get annoying after a while. Happens every gear but at low RPMS... 1900-3000 RPMS.
4th gear seems to be the worse. This is not my daily driver so i can live with it, but if it was my daily i would be annoyed and probably but the stock mounts back in. While on the road course i do not hear it because i am at high RPMS and the noise isn't really there (well it might get muffled by the sound of the engine but i hear no whine)
I actually hear everything going on in the trans to be honest, i can hear the clutch engaging/disengaging and every move i make with the trans. (i am glad i still have the dual mass because im sure the chatter would be 10 times louder with stiffer mounts)
I run OEM trans fluid... i have heard of some guys running different fluid to quiet it down some...
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I have a 2004 4-cylinder Camry. Saturday I changed the passenger side motor mount which was broken and the front motor mount, which did not appear to be broken, but there was more play in it than in the replacement. I had to take the battery out and the air intake in order to have enough room to remove the front mount. To remove the front mount, I jacked up the engine with a 2 X 4 underneath the oil pan so as not to damage it. The passenger side wheel rose several inches off the ground. After everything was back together, the car ran rough at first but eventually got better. The only symptom that remains is a noise and slight vibration when the car is in drive. In neutral and all other gears there’s no noise or vibration. They noise seems to be slightly less when the car starts to roll, and after a few seconds in motion, I can’t hear it. What’s causing the noise? If there a third motor mount that I may need to replace?
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just replaced the timing belt and water pump on my '97 Acura TL. (80k mi), It now vibrates in gear at idle,but runs like a champ above 1000 RPMs. Didn't do it when I took it in. Our trusted mechanic says it's the motor mounts. I say "how do motor mounts go bad overnight?" There are small drips on my driveway under the car.
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I have an '05 Dodge Neon SXT (4.0) with 113,000 miles on it. A few days ago, I had three cracked motor mounts replaced. However, I'm experiencing an increased amount of vibration when the engine is idle. I've had the timing belt , the accessory belt, water pump and valve replaced within the last year. I also recently had a coolant flush and an oil change. I was told that the timing belt cover is broken and I intend to have that fixed in the near future. However, I do not believe the timing belt cover is the cause of the vibration since it was broken and did not cause vibration before the motor mounts were replaced. Why I having the vibration?
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