Elantra XD (2001-06) :: No Power In Engine Even To Climb A Small Hill
Jan 14, 2013
I've a 01 elantra its a 2 litre tubro diesel. There is no power in the engine even to climb a small hill...
View 1 RepliesI've a 01 elantra its a 2 litre tubro diesel. There is no power in the engine even to climb a small hill...
View 1 RepliesA few days ago I posted a thread about losing power on a steep hill climb with a cold engine. I replaced the hybrid battery and all seemed well. A few days later, the problem occurred again--bummer. (The car has 120K miles and has spent most of its life in a hot and mountainous environment, and I knew the hybrid battery was failing, so that's not a problem.)
The car starts the climb OK, gains a few hundred feet in elevation, still has some charge left in the hybrid battery, then loses power, surges a couple of times, then comes to stop. The engine continues to run at idle and I get no warning or check engine lights. The "ready" light stays on. This time, the second time it happened, I turned off the car, turned it back on again immediately, and all was well. The remainder of the 1000' climb went fine. As did several other similar climbs on the same drive. Since then I've climbed this hill with a cold engine without a problem, so it's intermittent.
I hesitate to pay Toyota for a code scan since the check engine light did not come on. Should I do this anyway? My local auto parts store will scan for free, but I know that their scanner will not read Toyota-specific codes, just industry standards.
My 2007 Prius has 120,000 miles. I live in a mountainous area. I need to climb 3 miles at 6% grade to get out of my neighborhood. Lately I've been noticing the traction battery loses charge fairly quickly and I've been thinking about replacing the battery. Much of my driving is in steep hills and I run a full charge cycle many times a day, so I guess I should expect some loss of life.
View 7 RepliesI go over a mountain pass, to and from work. It is about a two mile up and down incline/decline. On several occasions while going up the pass,the gas motor has rapidly accelerated at a high rpm. I back off the gas pedal and check the 'battery indicator bars' and there are none. I then drive very slowly to the top of the pass and the batteries quickly recharge on the decline to a color of all light green bars, indicating a full charge. Same experience coming home. Once I do normal town driving, the bars settle around 'four or five blue bars.' Local dealer says there is on problem. I am driving at 55 mph when this happens.
View 4 RepliesMy neighbor has a 1995 Dodge Dakota 3.9L that I have been trying to get back in good reliable condition. It has the 3.9L V6, manual transmission, and is 2WD if that matters. It is a pretty basic truck and must have about the fewest options they had that year. It has air conditioning but no radio as it came this way from the factory.
It has an issue which I suspect is vacuum related. When you accelerate or climb a hill, the HVAC acts really crazy. The vents start blowing air and then stop. It doesn't do this on a flat surface but does it immediately when you accelerate or otherwise put the engine under greater load.
I have inspected all the vacuum lines and found nothing wrong. There have been some issues with mice building a nest in the air cleaner but I couldn't find anything chewed. Where to look?
I have an 01 Hyundai Elantra that has had power steering problems for awhile.
Awhile back, when we would fire it up, we'd get a loud screech. Eventually, my father in law replaced the power steering pump and belt.
Now there is a new issue. Ever since he has replaced that, on start up, there's a small screech and when turning out of a parking space, the steering wheel is tough as if the power steering isn't working.
I was thinking it's the power steering pump pulley, but can't seem to find any real stores that just sell the pulley itself. I did see the pulley have a minor wobble in it when examining it. Thinking maybe its the bearings on the pulley.
I have a 2002 EX 7.3 and have never towed anything with it since purchased a year ago. This weekend I towed a side by side on a single axle trailer about 400 miles and could not maintain 70 mph with the small load up a mild hill. Also I could here the turbo surging while climbing hills. I have a AFE cold air intake and that is it. Truck had a aftermarket muffler on it when I bought it. New to the diesels but I thought it should tow that Trailer a little easier. I have no boost gauge or anything. Truck runs great other then this issue. Does not burn oil, get hot or anything out of the ordinary.
View 14 RepliesEvery time I turn my car off, I can hear a small puff of air releasing from around the engine (front grill area) if I am in front of the car (not loud but you can hear it when you are in front of the car). I have a 2013 limited USA version.
Also, how do I remove the negative battery terminal? I would like to do some lighting work and I want to stay safe doing it.
This just started last night. 2012 e ltd goes "pfft" 3 times after shut off. Sounds like 3 small back fires about 2 seconds after I shut off engine. Very soft sound. The third one is not quite as loud as the first two, and if the door isn't open, you can't hear it. Seems to be coming from under the engine cover, near the throttle body.
Let me add the mileage has dropped from about 26.9 in town to 23.6.
I have been reading several past post regarding the misfire while in OD and going up a small hill with light acceleration around 45 to 55 mph. Everything points to the COP so I replaced it today. Still getting the code after 20 minutes of driving around. My truck shudders and looses power. I can either let up on the throttle or hammer down on it to eventually smooth it out and everything goes back to normal.
Check engine light flashed but didn't stay on. My scanner does report misfire on cylinder 7 (P0307). Haven't owned this truck very long so I don't know much of it's history except OASIS report shows nothing alarming. Guess next step is a new set of plugs.
Another first today, is the tachometer is stuck at 4500 rpm. Shut the truck off and let it sit for an hour, then went back to start and tach. acts like 4500 is the new zero and running engine at 1000 rpm now indicates 5500. 2007 F250 SD 5.4 ....
I own a 2009 Nissan Sentra with a CVT transmission. It has about 65,000 miles. During the warmer months, my wife and I have both experienced times while driving (usually for more than 2 hours) when the engine would lose power while going up a hill. After doing some reading we learned that this was common in Sentra and Rogue models with CVT transmissions. Apparently the transmission fluid heats up, boils, and foams. The foam triggers a sensor that cuts power to the engine. Once the fluid's temperature decreases the car performs as it should.
We have visited the dealership and even have a case number with Nissan consumer affairs. After many appointments and phone calls, the only action taken was decreasing the level of transmission fluid. This action was approved by Nissan. This has worked a little but the issue still occasionally persists. For the record, neither my wife nor I are expecting this to drive like a race car. We'd just like it work correctly. I know Nissan has extended the warranty on this and many CVT transmissions.
I have a 2001 elantra 2.0 gls. It is running rough with low power and flashing engine light. It may have a bad 02 sensor but when checked for spark only the 2 and 3 cylinders were sparking. I can confirm this because when I unplugged the 1 and 4 spark plugs it made no difference in the way it was running. Next I tested the resistance on the coil packs. Both were an even 1.5 ohms. How can it be that the coil packs are good yet the plugs aren't firing? I also have moved plug wires around and have had no success.
View 8 Replies2001 hyundai Elantra 97000 mi. perfect on Thurs. Engine light flicker, sulfur smell, rough running, low power on Friday
First thought / hope, Bad gas? Had Filled up on Weds.... I added dry gas and FI Cleaner.
Second thought / fear Cat. Converter
Third . .. . ???
I have a 2001 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab XE with a V6 (without the supercharger). I bought it on Halloween night with only 42,000 miles. It now has 112,000 miles on it. I moved from Georgia to Kentucky and heard that I needed to have the cooling system flushed/filled to prevent it from freezing in the winter time. I then noticed that it would periodically "overheat." The temperature gauge would climb up to the line just below the "H" and then I would turn on the heater.
I read online about a "bleeder valve" on top of the intake manifold. I loosened it, squeezed the radiator hoses to get all of the air out and then tightened the bleeder valve. I then let it run until the thermostat opened, revved it up to 3,000 to let all of the coolant flow. Now, at various time with no specific reason, it will run fine and then just "decide" to overheat.
I can drive it on the interstate for fifteen minutes, park it in front of my house and then have to "tack it up to 3,000" just to get it cool. I've changed the thermostat and had the water pump tested. Neither of them are faulty. My mechanic vacuumed out all of the air from the system with a special tool the dealer recommends using and it still does the same thing. What's going on with this vehicle?
I purchased my 2013 F350 PSD July of 2014 and immediately noticed "the shudder" when the engine was lugged down to 1000-1100 rpms on a hill. Sounding like somewhere around the turbo belching air too. At first I was startled but learned to manually downshift to higher rpms and it will stop. Once or twice I tried accelerating out of it and it shuddered as bad as the poster who said it made the steering shudder too.
My truck has 16,000 miles and I never let the rpms drop now. So I figure I have a real problem I'm not imaging. What should I tell my dealer is the TSB or remedy ?
Fuel mileage is terrible also but the truck really has no power. Running down the highway it kicks down just to pull a small incline. Check engine light is not on and there is no hessitation. The truck has 105k on it and i have put only 5k of those miles on. I did pull a couple plugs and they are autolites so plugs must have been changed at some point. Does this sound like a coil problem?
View 5 RepliesI'm trying to figure out a small leak on my mothers' Santa Fe. Recently I smelled coolant after my mother had gone for a long drive. I checked the Radiator and overflow... need maybe 1 qt of coolant.
Now I'm trying to find the cause of the missing coolant ! While it's running, I see no leak. Shut it off and it starts to drip from a small plastic tube on the firewall inside the engine bay area (on the passenger side). It drips down onto a rubber boot covering some steering stuff. Is this from the heater core?
I have 2003 f250 7.3 automatic 181,000 miles completely stock. Never had chip,tuner or anything on it. I am second owner and got it when it had 70,000 miles on it. Ok here we go I live on top of a mountain and soon as i start up the mountain or any steep hill, or pull or tow something my service engine light pops on. First time it came on I took it to diesel shop they hooked it up to scanner and said it was code p1211 said icp sensor was bad so they put new one on. Couple days later light started popping back on so i decided to order a auto ingenuity after doing some research.
Hooked up to truck started up mountain while scanning at wot light pops on code p1211 and think it was live data I remember seeing icp pressure at 1922 and duty cycle at 63% i was trying to drive and read it at same time and my lap top went dead. What does this reading mean 1922 pressure/ at 63% cycle done little research but dont really understand. Year and half ago replaced all orings on all injectors, new rebuilt hpop pump. New ipr valve, glow plugs, past month 2 different icp sensor new,and new ipr valve new pig tails on both and light still popping on.
I thought I smelled anti freeze the other day pulling a hill with a trailer so I stopped and looked and have no puking and coolant level is exactly the same as when I changed the coolant last year and I haven't added any. So I went and bought a gauge and took the truck in over drive to 30psi boost floored to about 90mph and coolant pressure climbed from about 2psi to roughly 6psi and it stayed there until the truck cooled off at home. Truck has SCT tuned and ARP studs and egr delete.
View 14 RepliesI just turned on my car to move it out of the drive way and i noticed it starts rising when cold probably like 25-50 rpm then goes down, then back, and so on. i never noticed this before. is it a cold start assist or something like that ? i dont believe it does it when cold ( never noticed )...
View 11 RepliesI have a small coolant leak coming from the passenger side near the back of the engine that forms a spot about the size of a dinner plate if it sits for a few days.
One thing I noticed is if I turn off the AC selector switch when I park I will get the drip but if I leave the switch on MAX AC when I shut the truck off I do not get any leaking.
It is definitely coolant and not just the condensation from use of the AC. If I haven't used the truck for a few days or if I have run it with the AC off I will get the drips.
If I run with the AC on and leave the switch in the on position when I shut the truck off it won't leak. I have tried to locate it from looking above and below but can't determine where it is coming from.