Elantra XD (2001-06) :: No Heat When Car Is Idling


Mar 10, 2012

The heat works fine when driving but when car is idling there is no heat, the blower is working just blowing cold air, the temp gauge reads normal???

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Passat (B5) :: 2001 - No Heat When Idling

Why my Passat will not put out any heat when idling? I recently had some body work done (right front fender replaced) and it seems like this has started to happen...any possibility they didn't hook up some line...???

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Elantra XD (2001-06) :: No Heat Or AC At Idle

2004 Elantra - 65,000 miles: Heat and AC works fine when vehicle is moving. At idle or parked it just blows air.

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Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Heater Won't Blow Heat

2005 Elantra here with 120k miles

Problem: Not heat will come out unless

1) I don't turn on the Fan Motor at all. Very Nice heat will "bleed" out of the vents as long as there is no Fan on - on any setting.

2) Lukewarm heat will come out if I am giving the car gas or revving it. As soon as it goes back to idle or I am no longer giving gas it goes back to no heat at all.

Things I have tried:

Topped up the radiator and tank (radiator has been replaced)

Water pump replaced

No leaks

Thermostat is opening ( Upper hose gets hot, Lower hose stays cold for a while and then gets hot)

Flushed heater core with a garden hose.

Inlet hose to heater core is hotter than outlet hose but outlet hose is not cold to the touch.

Radiator cap has been replaced

Car does not run hot at all

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Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2005 - Heat Not Working - Goes From Hot To Cold And Shifts Back Again

Its a 2005 Elantra i dont know the sub model, but they said the heat will be working just fine, then out of no where it stops, at first i thought it was the issue's i've seen on here before about a bad blower, but its still blowing it just goes from hot to cold, and then it will shift back again after x amount of time.

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Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Sputters While Idling And Power Loss If Try To Accelerate Hard

My 2004 Elantra occasionally won't start. When I hold the ignition on Start, the radio loses power (but the dashboard doesn't) and nothing else happens. Sometimes, tapping the gas pedal will suddenly cause the car to start. Once, I had to stomp the pedal to the floor before it would work.

I just replaced the battery (and positive cable end since it was corroded in place) and recently replaced the spark plugs (which were badly burnt). There is a check engine code for "catalyst underperforming" which seems unrelated.

I suspect my car has fuel delivery problems. It occasionally sputters while idling and often has power loss while driving if I try to accelerate hard. It seems to have trouble shifting into 4th gear from 3rd or 5th, but that may be another issue entirely.

What I should check to diagnose this, or replace to resolve it?

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Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2002 Gt Idling Very Rough With Rpm Jumps Back And Forth From 1500 To 2500

My wife drives a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. Recently the car started idling very rough with rpm jumps back and forth from 1500 to 2500 rpm. The check engine light came on and threw a code for the IAC. I also notice a clicking sound coming from the engine and I can see sparks arching at the coil/plug wire. The arching is happening at the coil with the numbers 1 & 4.

The car is difficult to drive. It shakes and surges and isn't pleasant to drive at all. These issues started happening very recently. The car ran great up until now. We've stopped driving it for the time being until we solve the problem.

We had the car serviced a few years ago and they changed the IAC and mentioned something about a gray wire that we should watch out for.

I'm not really sure what the issue is. I don't know if it is the spark plugs, wires, or coil. Or it could be the IAC or something else. I'm comfortable working on the car myself, but I would rather not try fixing many things if it is just one thing actually wrong.

So far, the only thing I've tried is to spray some carb cleaner into the throttle body towards the IAC in hopes that it would clean it and solve my problems.

Where the IAC is located. I want to try remove and clean it, but I'm unsure of exactly where it it. I know it is somewhere on the throttle body or intake manifold, but I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking for.

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Montana :: 2007 SV6 - Little Or No Heat When Idling At 700 RPM

2007 Montana SV6 3.9. I have lots of heat when vehicle is reving 1500 -2000rpm. when idling at 700 little or no heat. recent flush, thermostat, and serpentine belt. I'm thinking, if it was the water pump not circulating enough water the car should be over heating. heat guage remains on the half mark.

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Venture :: Heat Gauge Going Up When Idling For A While

I have a 2000 chevy venture with 100,000 miles on it and I just had the thermostat replaced a month ago. Now that the weather is getting warmer I have noticed the gauge going up when idling for a few minutes, drive through, etc. Is there a sensor that could have went bad when the thermostat went out that should be replaced? When I start driving again the gauge comes back down. I have noticed that the fans arent kicking on, but when I turn the a/c or heat on then they do.

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Repair :: Heat Drops Off While Idling At Intersection?

With the cold weather arriving I've recently noticed that when I have the heater on it does fine while I'm going down the road. However when I idle at an intersection the blower still works but the heat drops off.

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Ford - Focus :: 2008 - Heat Goes Cold While Idling

I have a 2008 Ford Focus. The heat in my car stays hot while I am driving but when I stop at a light or slow down the heat goes very cool.

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 - No Heat After Idling For 3 To 5 Minutes

2007 f150 5.4 supercrew, average temp for the last 2 weeks was -27. I plug the truck in all night it starts good and idles down fast engine is warm. no heat after idling for 3-5 min and then try to drive it takes another 5 min for the temp gauge to hit full temp 192. then my windows fog over even the dash and there is minimal heat coming out takes another 10-15 min to clear the windows. what the "F". fulid levels up, winter front on, block heater works, not using or smelling antifreeze, brush off every last speck of snow and I still have to pull over on the highway and wait......should have kept my 95 5.8l.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Heat Only Works At 70 Mph But Not While Idling

I have an F-250 Ford, 2006, 6.0 turbo-diesel. Started noticing that my heat only works while running at 70 mph or more and the turbo is at around 15-20 psi. Now that it has gotten cold it is definitely an issue. Truck does not overheat, I am not able to feel heat on the hose after control vlave and I do not feel any vacuum on the line (grey) to the control valve. I have checked for leaks, changed out the fill cap, checked anti-freeze level, pulled control valve just to verify its position when opened (which it seems to stay open). It's getting really cold in the cab of that truck now.

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Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Exhaust Heat Shield Vibration

Had an annoying vibration when pulling from a stop til up to speed or if I was going up a hill at low speed. Figured it was the exhaust heat shield so I took it in for service. I was told that it was indeed the heat shield and that there is a service bulletin regarding it. I believe they repaired it with a pair of clamps.

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Elantra GD (2013+) :: Engine Heat Coming Into The Car From Pedal Area

I got my 14 Elantra GT 3 months ago.

If I am driving with all the windows and roof opened, I can feel the engine heat coming in to the car from the pedal area. I took it to the dealer and they said it's normal.

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Elantra HD (2006-10) :: 2008 - Heat / AC Blower Intermittently Not Working

I have a 2008 Elantra w/ 108K miles. The current issue is the heat/ac blower intermittently not working. On Christmas Eve I started to drive it and realized the windshield was fogged up because blower was not working. The next day it worked fine...we chalked it up to maybe being related to having plugged a crock pot into the cigarette lighter (with a plug convertor thing)...wishful thinking that maybe something just got "overloaded." It has been working fine since, except last night when I started it, same thing--no air blowing on any of the settings (I read that if setting 4 works, but not 1-3, it makes a difference w/ the diagnosis). And, then again today...it works fine. Other things that I have noticed/that have happened in the past year or so (possibly unrelated, but figured it couldn't hurt to mention them just in case):

June 2013--started intermittently hearing a loud buzzing type sound (at first thought it was my phone vibrating)...sometimes would happen randomly, but mostly when I would adjust the heat/ac...sound coming from the passenger side front of the car floor area (maybe under glove box where I know the blower motor is). The buzzing would last anywhere from 2-20 seconds. Never did anything about it since everything was working fine...

Last winter--while driving home during a heavy snow storm w/ defrost on high and windshield wipers going noticed that the fan/blower seemed to "surge" when I stepped on the gas..like the blower would slow down when I braked and blast out much more air louder when I accelerated. I noticed this again tonight...possibly it has been ongoing and I just have not noticed.

Early Dec 2014-present--unable to adjust the temp setting...despite twisting the knob from red to blue, it remained hot air. Assumed it's the blend door, but figured we'd deal w/ it in the spring when I needed cold air again!

What this could be (or an overall problem that would explain all the problems?).

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Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Climate Controls Do Not Power On With Remote Starter - No Heat

Last year my oem remote starter worked great. This year when I start the car with the remote start the climate controls do not power on until I insert the key and turn it. I've pulled just about every fuse out, in and under the hood and can't find the problem. Not sure where to go from here.

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Elantra GD (2013+) :: 2014 - Engines Vibrates Sometimes When Idling At A Traffic Stop

I have a Elantra GT 2014 with about 7000 miles on it. It has been running great, pretty good gas mileage, about 28.5mpg combined. However, I do have a small irratation with it. Sometimes, during my drives, if I stop at a Red light and put my car in neutral gear, I felt the engines does a strong vibration for a few seconds sometimes. It's kinda annoying. Is that a sign of a problem for the engine in the future? or am I just being too picky?

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Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Headlights Flickering When Idling / Inadequate Power Supply

My friend has a 2008 Elantra, and she had me jump start the car the other day. The car jump started just fine, but then when it was idling, the headlights would flicker, as if there was an uneven of inadequate power supply. Then, when driving the car, turning the wheel and taxing the power steering would cause the headlights to almost turn off momentarily. After driving for 30 or more minutes, the car did not improve at all. I turned the car off, then went to start it, and immediately it was too dead to turn over again. I'm lost with the electrical, I don't think its the alternator.

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Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Engine Shake Heavily When Idling - Warning Code P0172

Recently, I got a error code of P0172, that indicate mixture correction (bank 1) rich. Actually, air filter and spark plug have been replaced.

My avante is only 4 years. and 70k mileage. By the way, I found the engine shake heavily when idling.

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Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Knocking Noise In Steering When Idling And Turning The Wheel Back And Forth

I have a 2007 elantra. I drove it for a while, then my ma needed a car (her tercel was a little unsafe) so I traded her. She loves the car, but as sometimes is the case, her dealer is not very nice. She has a severe side to side knocking noise in the steering- can be easily duplicated by sitting with the car idling and turning the wheel back and forth, even a little. Doesn't correspond with driving over bumps unless the wheel is inadvertently turned by the bump. If the suspension is unloaded (front wheels off the ground), noise disappears. No EPS lights, no codes in any system.

Listened with a stethoscope inside the car- not that loud through column within car. Inner and outer tie rods are tight, noise is not heard loudly with stethoscope through struts, upper mounts, lower arms. Under the car with loaded suspension (rhino ramps), noise is deafening in the rack, with a stethoscope. Dealer told her it needs a steering rack, I definitely understand why they would say that as the noise is clearly audible through the aluminum housing directly below the entrance of the column shaft into the rack. Only TSB I found was for a worm shaft flexible coupling, but the TSB says this is bump related.

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