Elantra XD (2001-06) :: No Brake Pedal - It Goes To Floor
Mar 5, 2012
I have been working on my 01 Elantra for 2 days now. My problem is that I have absolutely no brake pedal at all, it just goes right to the floor. and this is only when the car is running, when it is off I give it a quick pump and i have a nice firm pedal. I installed a new master cylinder, bench bled it and all that jazz. I replaced the rear brakes and a wheel cylinder, I have also bled the brakes multiple times, and mutliple ways. bled the master while on the car and all the brakes while the car is off and while it is running. I dont know what else could be wrong with this. I looked at all the lines and there are no wet spots, no hoses are swelling up. everything looks top notch...i just have no brakes why.
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Working on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. 4 disc, no ABS. Problem is the brake pedal goes to the floor without much force. I bled all 4 lines, but no improvement. Rigid lines from the brake master cylinder to the rear wheels were very corroded, so I ran new lines. The old ones pretty much fell apart when I took them off the car. I also replaced the brake master cylinder. I tried to bleed the brakes again, but couldn't get much (if any) fluid pressure at any of the wheels. Yes, I found a couple leaks at the junction points for the rigid lines, but I re-flanged those connections and got rid of all the leaks. Still no real pressure when trying to bleed.
So, I tried a second, then a third master cylinder with a new attached resevoir. No improvement. I bench bled the snot out of this third master cylinder because the symptoms clearly suggest air was likely trapped somewhere in the system. I used a wood dowel to fully actuate the cylinder many times after all the air had been released while I had short clear hoses running from the master cylinder outlets into a little plastic cup filled with clean brake fluid. I wanted to make sure there was no way air could be in the MC, and no air drawn back in when I released the wood dowel.
Next, I quickly capped off the MC outlets and connected a hose to each brake line individually where they normally screw into the MC. I then let clear fluid drain through each line until it was spilling out clear of each caliper bleeder with no air bubbles. So, no lines are kinked, clogged, or contain air.
I took every precaution to keep air out of the system, yet when I push the brake pedal, there is still virtually no real pressure generated by the MC. The power booster rod is shoving the master cylinder in as it should. I don't think there's any problem with the power booster.
I've used gravity bleeding, manual "push & hold the brake pedal" bleeding, vacuum bleeding, and I'm certain there is no air in the lines or calipers. Still no significant pressure coming from the MC when I push & hold the brake pedal to the floor. It takes maybe 20-25 pounds of foot pressure, but always goes completely to the floor with all the bleeders closed. If the pedal is held to the floor, fluid slowly seeps from the bleeders. I'm used to it spraying when doing this on a healthy brake system.
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I have a 2001 Grand Prix SE 3.1 that the brake pedal goes to the floor. I did notice the fluid was low , filled it up. I do not think it sucked air, although I can not be sure of that. As you can imagine, it is a beater so don't want to stick a ton of money in it. I had someone look at it that said he thought it was a "sensor" that would cost over 500 bucks. I don't know of any brake sensors at all. If there is, do they cost that much? If not would this be a master cylinder.
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I bought a 2001 chevy malibu about a month and a half ago.when I test drove it,didnt notice any problems or leaks...after driving it for a 2 weeks...the brake pedal would drop to the floor while driving and then if I hit it again real quick it would be ok...this problem would happen now and then....we replaced the right front caliper thinking that it was sticking and bled all the brakes..There was air in the system..everything was fine for about two more weeks then while driving the pedal would get hard when applied and then drop again..not all the way to the floor,and it alternates that way..what are your thoughts? I don't have much money to fix this problem.
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Here's the short of it. 3rd time in a year the brakes on my 2005 SF (177K miles, 2.7L) have gone out.
The brake pedal is very soft and goes to the floor before braking occurs. Typical signs of a bad master cylinder.
The first time was a year ago. I bought a re-manufactured master cylinder, change it and bled the brakes. Worked like a champ and lasted 10 months.
To months ago same exact symptoms. I assume it was a bad re-man part. It's under warranty, not big deal. I do warranty exchange, bleed system, brakes return. All is good.
Less then 3 weeks later, brakes gone, same symptoms! This time I spend the difference and get a brand new OEM cylinder with reservoir. Replace, bleed, problem fixed. Brakes go out in less than a week.
I'm not leaking anywhere. Reservoir is to corect level. ABS light is NOT on. No chattering in brakes. Braking is smooth both when power brakes work and when not. No visible damage to calipers. I'm 99% sure there is no air in the system, but I'm going to try bleeding again. I have not put it up on a lift to yet to check all the lines.
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My brake pedal goes almost to the floor when I'm braking.I replaced the rotors, pads, shoes, power booster and the master cylinder 3 times.Had it bled twice and I still have a soft pedal, but now it firms up a bit as I pump the brakes.
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2001 F-350 / 7.3L / 147K ... What are some symptoms of the master cylinder going out? And is there a such thing as a rebuild kit anymore? The pedal has been getting spongier & spongier over the past months. Truck still stops O.K. but you have to brake earlier than I used to. Pedal can go almost to the floor. Pedal continues to go to floor as pressure is applied. Does not go to floor though.
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Got Elantra GT 6 month ago. Good car, but it seems I have a very common problem of Elantras - lost of brakes. My car has TCS, but no ABS. It started 4 month ago. Car is fine for several weeks, but then within two days brake pedal getting from bad to worse. My mechanic already replaced master cylinder and right rear caliper. Did not work. Yesterday it was third time when I almost (very soft pedal) lost brakes. Today in Hyundai dealer service they bled the brakes and said "that they hope it will work". Their mechanic found air in both (left and right) rear brake lines. So, my question if I have a leak in, say, left line will it propagate to the right line? I am asking because I do not know the hydraulic schema of the brakes and want to collect as much info as possible.
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Very recently the brake pedal in my car has been stiff (won't depress all of the way down) after starting up the car when it's been sitting for a while. It takes a few presses of pedal for it to feel normal again.
I did some research and turned up a vacuum leak as a possible cause. I also wondered if a flush/bleed would be a possible fix for something like this.
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I've been having a randomly recurring problem with my 2004 Hyundai Elantra for several months now. I'll be driving along and will notice that my brake pedal won't depress. When I step off of the accelerator, it is like the brakes are already engaged. Eventually, the brake pedal won't depress at all and the car acts like the brakes are fully engaged. Sometimes I can let it sit for an hour or several hours and the brakes will readjust and I can move again. So far I have replaced both calipers, rotors, 2 brake hoses and the master cylinder, but I am still having this problem. My mechanic is flummoxed. Any time I have the car towed in, the brakes release by the time it arrives and he has no problem to observe.
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I have an issue that i have been trying to resolve. When i depress the brake lightly to a stop, the pedal pulsates. But if I depress a little harder it pulsates initially midway down and then it stops as i press harder to brake. (I hope this is easy to understand). so... press lightly, pulsates until I reach a stop. press firmly, pulsates briefly, then no pulsation until i reach a stop.
I have pretty much replaced everything. Calipers, rotors, pads, lnes, fluid, hardware. lugs are torqued to 100ftlbs.
Also the caliper is not sticking the problem persists even after I replaced the calipers. I am left at a total loss here. I cant think of anything else. One thing that i noticed is, the LUGS are really hot to the touch after driving it for 15 min or so.
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Is it normal to experience road vibrations in the pedal and floor? I've owned my car for about a month now (it's a used 2011) and it has brand new tires on it, but the past week or two it seems these road vibrations have worsened.. it's like I can feel the texture of the road on my feet. If I reach a freshly paved area it goes away like magic.
Is this indicative of a problem that I could have the dealer investigate? Or is this a "characteristic" of this car? I came from a 97 Corolla, with the exact same tires on it, and it did not have this problem at all. Then again, it was also much much quieter going over bumps too...
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I was driving around today and had to hit the brakes really hard for the first time. ABS kicked in and during the ABS 'action' the brake pedal rapidly went to the floor. With each 'pump' the ABS made it felt like the pedal sunk slightly.
This was on dry pavement, a little gravelly / dirty and the car stopped rapidly, but just as I stopped the pedal was VERY close to the floor, and with just a touch more pressure it did in fact hit bottom.
Sounds to me like the ABS pump needs to be bled, is that right? Can I do that myself with a VAGCOM? I hate having the dealer do anything, even if it is their job. How to SAFELY confirm if cars does / does not do this as well?
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2005 Volvo S60 T5, 90,000 miles. The brake pedal depresses almost to the floor. Dealer service has not had a solution to this problem. All brake components are supposedly nominal. Might pedal position sensor be faulty?
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My 04 Camry is having brake issues. It has 205k miles. The front pads are great and the back shoes are great. (Drums in back) I've had them adjusted multiple times but my pedal still goes almost to the floor. It's not the master cylinder cause I've already replaced that. The pedal doesn't bleed off either. But I have bled the brake lines and there is no air left in the lines.
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My mother went out 2 days ago to go run errands, she stepped on the brake pedal and it went to the floor (car still in garage and in park, low mileage car 81,xxx garage kept). I have not been able to duplicate the issue. The fluid has been changed twice since new, no signs of fluid loss, undercarriage inspection revealed nothing. I am thinking maybe a vacuum hose issue.
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When I go to start and depress the brake pedal it goes all the way to the floor. The brake fluid is at the full mark and my 2011 has only 25k miles. Where should I look since it did not go all the way to the floor when I forst got it with 6K miles.
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I drive a 1991 F-150 Lariat Extended Cab. Out of the blue, my brakes decided they didn't want to work unless the pedal is about 1/2 - 3/4 of the way down to the floor. As soon as I release past that 1/2 mark, they shut off. While this makes it great for tailgaters, it does not make it great for police officers.
We have already replaced the switch thinking maybe it was that, but alas it was not. I was reading in a couple difference places about the multiswitch? However, the symptoms other people had were similar, but not the same. I never tilt my steering wheel, so I dont know if that's the issue!
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2013 Prius c Two, bought brand new with 15 miles on it 5 weeks ago. A few times when driving, I noticed the brakes seemed weak, like they weren't stopping the car very well even at low speeds (My driving is mostly in town on residential streets, so I'm rarely going over 35 MPH. Even so, I'd have to really mash the pedal all the way to the floor to get the car to come to a complete stop, otherwise it would keep moving forward. Several times I ended up about 5-10 feet past the line, sticking the front bumper into cross traffic. Luckily no one hit me. I chalked it up to the quirks of a different car than the one I was used to, and figured if it kept happening I'd take it to the dealership.
On Monday, my wife was stopped at a red light. The light turned green and the car in front of her started to move forward. After a few hundred feet, he suddenly slammed on his brakes. She said her brake pedal went all the way to the floor, and the Prius didn't slow down at all. She hit him going about 25-30 MPH and totaled the Prius. She's an excellent driver and I've been with her before when she's had to panic-stop. She's never driven a car without ABS, so she is used to pushing the pedal hard and keeping her foot on it. She wouldn't even know how to "pump" the pedal. She swears the pedal just went all the way to the floor and the car didn't slow down at all.
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For the past several weeks, my daughter reports that she has to put her foot almost all the way to the floor to get the brakes to work. The brakes do not have an effect until her foot is 1-2 inches from the floor. It usually happens after she has been driving for a while without pressing the brakes. I’ve driven the car numerous times but haven’t been able to replicate the problem. Her commute is approximately 10 miles each way in stop and go traffic. The car is a Volvo xc70 with 200k+ miles. I've had it looked at by a mechanic who didn't find anything but it's continuing to happen. I'm suspicious that it may be a master cylinder problem and concerned about complete brake failure -- should I be?
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When I press the brake pedal, the car will stop. But if I keep pressing it while the car is stopped, the pedal wants to keep going towards the floor. I have to press hard for it to do this. I have bled the brakes. I've checked the calipers and the hoses for leaks and don't see anything. The master cylinder is topped up and I don't see any fluid underneath it. It doesn't appear to be leaking. The funny thing is, when I turn the engine off and press the pedal, the pedal comes to a stop and doesn't want to move after I pressed on it as hard as I can.
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