Elantra XD (2001-06) :: No Attempt To Start When Ignition Key Is Turned
Dec 11, 2012
I have a 2004 Elantra GT, and for the past year it sometimes makes no attempt to start when the ignition key is turned. All the dashboard lights, radio, bells and whistles are fine, but once the key is turned to start nothing happens. There are no clicks or anything. Some dashboard lights stay on and I can hear the initial whirring under the hood from the electrical system.
I've replaced the battery, ignition wires, and plugs. This will happen very erratically. Then all of a sudden it will fire up like nothing was wrong. This is always over a several minute time span of trying and retrying to start. I took it to a mechanic but we can never replicate the problem while there.
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01 Elantra, once warmed up to running temp starts to run like a pig & wont idle, has new plugs/leads.
Funny thing is there is no engine check light, in fact it doesn't even come on for the 6 seconds when the ignition is first turned on at all.
Secondly I have OBD2/ELM327 with scanpro but it doesn't connect to the ECU.
We put it into a shop & they claim they were able to connect to ecu but gave no codes which I find a bit strange.
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Today I came out of a store & my car started beeping the panic alarm. I don't carry the key fob with me, just a key. I unlocked the door, sat down, put the key in & turned the ignition. The lights all lit on the dashboard as normal but the car did not start. absolutely nothing. I was at a loss for what to do.
Fortunately, someone came out of the store & asked me if I needed a jump & explained what happened, and he said let me try something. He tried to start the car, then got out of it, locked the door, unlocked the door, sat back down & tried again. The car started right up.
The car is a 2014 Elantra SE with the Premium Package.
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When I try to start my wife's '06, it takes a little bit longer to start than in the past (used to take only 2 turns or so, now it takes 3 or 4). When it does finally ignite, it's a rough ignition and then it goes to normal. Why this is happening?
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I have a 07 Elantra with 68,000 miles. I am having a cold start issue. When the car sits overnight and I attempt to start/place the car into gear (auto), the car will stall. This occurs whether the car is placed in forward/reverse and with the a/c on/off. The vehicle will start fine the rest of the day with no issues.
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For over 1 year I've had a problem with my 2001 Volvo S60 only giving a "click" when I attempt to start it. Often when I repeat multiple times, it DOES START, but more often than not, it doesn't (at least right away).
I've replaced the battery, starter/solenoid and starter relay. Twice I've had it to the local Volvo dealer, and both times the mechanics said the problem was associated with "corrosion" on the solenoid blade. Once the mechanic just "wiggled" the connector, and the other time the blade was sanded to remove potential oxide/corrosion.
After replacing the starter/solenoid, it STILL didn't start, so I replaced the wire leading from the fuse-box, thinking that "wiggling" the connector may have degraded the crimp on it.
Now the car won't start AT ALL. I've tested the line from the fuse down to the wire to the solenoid, and the ECM only now gives a "pulse", rather than turning ON while the ignition is turned to START. I'm thinking that some other input is telling the ECM to NOT CONTINUE CRANKING.
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2001 explorer, SOHC. Sometimes just lately (5 times in the past three weeks) the engine just does not start. It turns over just fine but makes no attempt to actually start. When it does this it will after a few attempts start right up like nothing was ever wrong. It doesn't seem to matter whether it is cold or warm. Intermittent problems are very hard to diagnose .....
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2001 F250 5.4 ... I'm losing my mind chasing a Gremlin. I've been having mostly intermittent starting issues with my truck. I've had the truck for a little over a year, after someone totaled my previous one.
It occasionally wouldn't start on the first attempt, but it got really bad in the last couple weeks.
I first thought it was a faulty inertia switch or wiring in that vicinity, as at one point after manually tripping and resetting the cutoff switch it would start, UNTIL I put the trim panel back. At this point I think that may have been a coincidence.
I eventually probed the switch and it tests as it should electrically.
I put in a new fuel filter and things were fine for several days, but it acted up again. That time was last Saturday. Got it to start and all was good until tonight. Now it won't go, and I've tried so many times that I can see the battery power is dropping.
Last Saturday I pulled the relays from behind the radio and cleaned 'em up real nice. Also, just to check another variable I swapped the two that matched.
I'm about ready to change the fuel pump, but I've heard so many people say they did that but the problem was something else. Not only will it costs hundreds of dollars, its cold out and we'll have to drop the tank in the driveway.
In addition to the relay, inertia switch and fuse, I have found some mention of faulty fuel pressure regulators causing issues. I'll pry the vacuum line off in the morning to see if I can detect fuel residue on the vacuum side. (There is some noticeable corrosion on the fuel rail in that area).
I REALLY want to make sure I rule everything else out before spending hours under the truck in freezing weather dropping the tank and changing the sending unit out.
On key-on there is a noise from the gas tank, but someone else listening described it as a click but no whirring.
I do hear the relay clicking behind the radio. (Also, I pulled them again tonight and put a meter to them. With 12V on the primary side, they click and the other side shows continuity on diode check, and about .2 Ohm on resistance mode.)
I went through a lot of trouble to get my spare out looking for the fuel control module before finding out my truck is about 3 years too old to have one too. What else to check?
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have an issue with my 03 trailblazer. i have the problem of no start when key turned to start position. actually nothing happens when the key is turned to start position. dash comes on when key is turned to on pos tho. took battery off and had it tested and it is at full charge. took starter off and had it tested and it passed. checked ignition relay cavities per this youtube video "Chevy Trailblazer no crank testing and information" and there is no light when touching the ground request cavity and turning the key to start position.
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I have a 2001 BMW 330i. The car has been a dream since the beggining but lately issues have risen to the surface. Today, when I turned off the ignition all the dashboard lights remained on. The keys in hand, lights off, nothing else on, but the dashboard was lit up light a christmas party. I recently recharged my battery, a problem, I think, caused by the cold temperatures. Other than that I have not noticed anything wrong ..
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2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 DOHC. Starting Problem. When the door is opened the interior lights come on, door dings, etc. As soon as the ignition is turned everything goes black all power is lost. Disconnect battery cable and reconnect, the open door again and the interior lights come on, door dings, insert key and turn, everything goes black, the car does not start. This cycle repeats over and over again every time the battery is disconnected and reconnected. I have replaced the battery, ignition switch. The starter was replaced last year. Why does power blackout, and car not start when the key is turned?
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Ok, so I'm working on a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, 93,000 miles. The vehicle runs great! So great that you cant get it to stop running!! The problem is intermittent and generally happens after the vehicle has been running for at least 3 minutes. I turn the key off and she keeps on running (not dieseling, but running at 340-450 rpms!) I have already removed the aftermarket remote start that was installed on the vehicle thinking that was the problem, it was not. Then I went to the ignition switch and unplugged that, also to no avail! I plugged my scan tool in and can communicate with the computer and view pids while the key is on. When I turn the key off, I should loose communication. When everything acting normal and the car actually shuts off with the key, I loose communication with the computer upon turning the key off. When I turn the key off and the veh. keeps running, I do NOT loose communication with the pcm. The only way to shut the car off is to step on the gas pedal. Otherwise it'll run at 400 or so RPM for an hour or so!!
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My wife's 2001 Gran Prix has a problem with the ignition switch, or related to the ignition switch. Intermittently (more frequently in warm weather or when the car's warm) the ignition switch can't be turned back to the 'off' position all the way, meaning the key can't be removed from the switch. We've heard from several mechanics that there are a couple problems that can cause this, and in fact had the ignition switch replaced which did not solve the problem. I understand there is a connection to the transmission or gear shift lever that may also be part of this problem in some way. There can only be so many solenoids, switches, connections, etc, related to this, I'd like to fix the problem and avoid spending money unnecessarily.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Sante Fe 2.4L that keeps blowing the ECU fuse under the hood when the ignition is turned on. We have replace the fuel pump and the inertia switch. I have tested the relay, ignition failure sensor, both coils and O2 sensor wiring.
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I noticed yesterday that my 2001 was stumbling when turning left. Later in the day, the CEL came on, and I retrieved a P0301 code. In both cases, I was driving around town, not cold but not fully warmed up, engine temp around 40-70 C.
I haven't done any further investigation, other than trying some different driving experiments. I've been able to recreate the problem several times starting out with a left turn when the car briefly runs on three cylinders. Going straight or turning right is fine.
Question: which cylinder is #1? My intent is to check the plugs and leads first, but since it's cold outside I'd like to focus my attention as much as possible on the problem area. I thought at first it might be fuel related because of the turning behavior, but on reflection, it feels more like an ignition issue.
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I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am it will start once but after that if you turn off ignition it will not start again until it has sat for a long time.
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What is wrong with my Passat: once a week my car fails to start. When clutch is pressed and ignition key is turned I can hear relay under dash is clicking and nothing happening. It does not sound to me as starter (I hope). After a few seconds and few attempts car starts normally. I checked which relay is clicking and it was Relay # 53 (starting interlock relay), which linked to a clutch switch. Replaced this relay and after a week problem repeated.
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I have a 2002 Passat GLS and when I tried to start my car this morning, it would not start. When I turn on the ignition, the car gives off a loud clicking sound. The interior and exterior light works, the panel light works, and the radio works as well. What might be the problem?
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My 2003 Toyota Camry LE has been running fine. Recently I parked the car somewhere for about 5 minutes and when I returned the car would not start, i.e. when I turned the key in the ignition the engine would not engage. I called the tow truck. The tow truck driver takes a look and tells me that she can hear the engine trying to kick in. She thinks the battery is fine, the alternator is fine etc. etc. So she pops the hood, takes a long metal rod, places it on the starter and gives it a couple of gentle taps. Then she asks me to start the car. I do and it works. She tells me that the starter was stuck and that what she did freed it up.
The car runs okay now but I am concerned as to whether this could be a sign of things to come. Should I take my car in the get the starter looked at or maybe replaced? The dealer says that a new starter will run me 350 bucks but also said that I don't need to come in unless it happens again. What does the community think? Do I have a problem or was it a one off thing that I can ignore for now? And I don't know if its important or not but the weather here has been starting to get colder lately. Could that be responsible in any way? I have about 81000 miles on this car.
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Here is my problem....the cooling fan will not come on, even with the A/C turned on. The A/C fan works fine. I've changed the fan for a new one and replaced the relay, and checked all the wiring, but nothing has changed. I've read other threads that have kind of the same problem and they mentioned the coolant temperature sensor. I don't have a problem changing it, but don't know where it is located.
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My 2002 Elantra GT has been turning off while driving. The radio, lights, and other accessories remain on. The car doesn't lurch but all of the dash lights come on like when you're first starting a car. I was able to restart the car after about 10 min the first time and 5 min the second time it happened. 1 week between episodes.
Brought it to the garage and they couldn't find a problem while letting it run for 30 min. Also, there are no error codes. What could be wrong?
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