Elantra XD (2001-06) :: No Throttle - Car Will Start But No Increase In RPMs With Pedal Input
Nov 16, 2015
2002 Elantra auto trans issue.
We are experiencing NO throttle after the car sits over night. But Not every time. When I write "NO throttle" the car will start but will not increase rpms with pedal input/movement. Runs at idle only. After a few minutes, it picks up the pedal input and is fine until is sits over night, sometimes.
I have changed out the TPS and no change. The car has just over 80000 miles and otherwise runs like a champ. There is no check engine light or any stored codes. The cable rotates freely at the TB. I read in the forums that the TPS replacements can be suspect.
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First ever failure with a Toyota. We limped home at 25mph this morning. No response with throttle pedal input, but the throttle body did operate in fail safe mode. Throttle pedal checks out with omhs check across the terminals per Toyota manual. I'm looking at having the car transported 45 miles to nearest dealer. I can change the tb out myself but not sure of the electronics. Does the computer have to be programed for a new tb?
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I got in a work truck yesterday, sat down, put my seat belt on and started the truck. Just as I did that another employee drove by and waved, all I could do was nod back at him because my hand was still starting the truck. This took my attention away for a split second, then as I put the truck in gear, my foot still on the brake, I noticed that the tachometer was pegged and the engine was racing. I instinctively pushed harder on the brake pedal, then looked down to be sure that I was pushing on the brake pedal and I was. Right then then rear of the truck started shaking violently and as fast as I could I turned the key off and put it back in park. This all happened in about 1 second, maybe 2.
The shaking was caused by the sheared off driveshaft. And it was sheared off because the center section of the rear differential had broken the spot welds that hold it and place and rotated on the axel housings. It is now pointing upward towards the bed of the truck. Have a drive by wire truck run the engine at wide open throttle with no input from the pedal? 2010 F150 4.6L...
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I have manual shift and the clutch is worn out. when in motion if I press the pedal the rpms jump but the car does not accelerate. only way to accelerate is to press very gently.
Q: do I always need to change the flywheel, which is expensive or changing just the clutch will do??
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I've noticed when encountering a moderate hill at 60 mph in cruise the revs might suddenly increase from 2200 to 2700 rpm, then back down slowly as I crest the hill. If I'm in manual mode it stays in 6th gear, but almost feels like a downshift. I also feel no accelerator pedal movement. Is this a two stage intake at work?
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2001 elantra has been revving really high on cold starts, RPMs will stay at over 3000 till u switch it into drive or reverse, Never happens when engine is warm, had intake cleaned out, did not solve issue...
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS with over 215,000 miles. About a month ago, I started my car and it revved up & down from 2 to 4 rpm. I took it to my mechanic and replaced the TPS, thinking it would fix it. What to do next. My mechanic fixes cars, but doesn't do it professionally. I don't have the money to take it to a dealership.
Now, after doing a tune-up and changing out other sensors the RPMs came down to 3 and will stay at 3 rpm when I start the car. When I drive it, it pulls on it's own without touching the gas pedal and is hard to brake. What else I need to fix or replace?
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So my mom recently bought a 2003 Elantra (75K miles, auto trans) and within a few days the CEL came on. She took it in to PepBoys and had them hook it to their scanner to get the codes out of it. The only code that came up was P0113 Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor high input. I've done a little research on the net but there is a lot of random info for this code out there. Is the IAT a separate sensor or is it combined in with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor(if this car even has a MAF) or combined in with the MAP sensor? I've read on the net that it could be any of these 3, I think it's combined into the MAP.
I've also read that this code could be caused by a bad IAT, bad O2 sensor, an exhaust leak, bad wiring/ground(I checked the wiring/grounds visually and everything seems ok) or many other things. If it's as simple as replacing one of the sensors I can do that myself, I just don't want to go randomly buying things and either it be the wrong part or have it be the right part but not fix the problem. The car runs great, even with the CEL on. Yesterday when she stopped by my house I disconnected the battery for a couple minutes and reconnected it, started the car & no CEL. She drove the car for about 125-150 miles before the light came back on.
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2004 2.4L 4cylinder manual transmission. I had a knock sensor code and replaced it. Then I had a code for the TPS and I replaced it with the new part today and after replacement the vehicle idles at 2000 RPM. what should I change?
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My accelerator is very "slowpoke", anything I can do?
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Anybody have any issues with this? I have a week old r-line and had the epc light come on, turbo seems to spool heavily with little throttle input and seems a bit sluggish.
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I have a 2003 Jetta 2.0 with the drive by wire throttle and I've been having some problems with it lately.
When on the highway (at a constant speed) sometimes it's almost like you take your foot off the accelerator pedal, then when you go to press it more, nothing happens, until you pump it a few times, it works again. This sounds like an electrical problem to me, not fuel or spark, because it's not sputtering at all, it just ignores your accelerator input. Is the "throttle module" a serviceable part?
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What Is that little hose for? I can Smell the gasoline whenever i start the car in the morning. It is cracked But i recently heard a z-zzing Under the hood. Is it an expensive hose? What about the hose clamp.. it looks weird.. is its special for that application ? I wanna replace it myself but I don't want to do it wrong and turn my car on fire.
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I recently took a long drive, and on 2 occasions, I heard the engine revving up when just simply cruising steadily at 70-80mph with little throttle input. I checked the LCD screen drive-train diagram, and there's no indicated of the engine turning during the revving. The car does not accelerate during the revving. Happens say for 10 - 20 seconds each time. To stop the revving, I simply give it a bit of throttle. I'm not on Cruise Control. Its a strange feeling, and I hope this isn't connected to the runaway Prius syndrome.
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Mark IV GTI. Neuspeed intake, chip, exhaust. The situation is...
When driving enthusiastically, harder, and sportingly, the car runs beautifully!
When driving normally, such as highway cruise or lower speeds with a consistent throttle input, the power will cut-out. Then the max boost pressure will be approximately 3 psi until the key is cycled. Then normal chipped operation resumes. Since it is difficult to drive hard all the time, this circumstance comes up often.
There is a new N75 recently installed. The situation does NOT set off the check engine light.
I have noticed according to the boost gauge readings, it tends to happen between 10 inHg to 0 psi. Above or below that, don't recall it happening.
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I can get it started and let it idle for an hour....idles smoothe. As soon as I try to move the car or step on the throttle...it stalls.
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I just changed timing belt all accessory belts and water pump on my 2001 Hyundai Elantra. Now the check engine light is on and it is sluggish in throttle response. It sounds smooth. I was quite sure I had the cam and crank marks dead on. I turned it 2 revolutions by hand and they both looked dead on before I started it. If I were off 1 or 2 teeth would that be the cause? And if so how do I fix it? Also will it hurt it to drive it that way?
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When I so this its like pressing in the clutch and revving it but my car is an automatic. During the upshift and downshift there is no jerking or hard shifting so I would assume this is OK? And is full throttling your car every few days bad or good?
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The RPMs while driving does up and down. You can feel the engine doing this. You can watch the Tac go up and down. Whats the problem. We just brought a TP sensor but I say its a vacuum leak.
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1998 3.1 ... 206,000 miles on it. Transmission rebulit about 25,000 miles ago, about 1 year ago.
Yesterday and again today from initial takeoff i noticed a whistling sound from about 20 mph up to about 40 mph.and it seemed to increase as i applied throttle. Is there some kind of vacuum to do with the choke maybe causing it?
I didnt notice the whistle after car was operating temp.
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92 Jeep Cherokee 4wd, 4.0 motor, automatic. Several things have been done recently, new timing chain, coil, distributor and cap, map sensor, computer, cam shaft timing sensor. motor now will start and run. It runs well at idle, but the timing gets all out of whack as the RPM's increase. Is there a knock sensor on this motor, and could it cause this? If so, where is it located?
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