Elantra XD (2001-06) :: No Heat Or AC At Idle
Jan 9, 2017
2004 Elantra - 65,000 miles: Heat and AC works fine when vehicle is moving. At idle or parked it just blows air.
View 2 Replies2004 Elantra - 65,000 miles: Heat and AC works fine when vehicle is moving. At idle or parked it just blows air.
View 2 RepliesThe heat works fine when driving but when car is idling there is no heat, the blower is working just blowing cold air, the temp gauge reads normal???
View 3 Replies2005 Elantra here with 120k miles
Problem: Not heat will come out unless
1) I don't turn on the Fan Motor at all. Very Nice heat will "bleed" out of the vents as long as there is no Fan on - on any setting.
2) Lukewarm heat will come out if I am giving the car gas or revving it. As soon as it goes back to idle or I am no longer giving gas it goes back to no heat at all.
Things I have tried:
Topped up the radiator and tank (radiator has been replaced)
Water pump replaced
No leaks
Thermostat is opening ( Upper hose gets hot, Lower hose stays cold for a while and then gets hot)
Flushed heater core with a garden hose.
Inlet hose to heater core is hotter than outlet hose but outlet hose is not cold to the touch.
Radiator cap has been replaced
Car does not run hot at all
I have to admit this is for my 2001 Civic EX. She warms up easily in summer and winter, never overheats, has a new thermostat and flushed radiator and gives plenty of heat when driving....but as soon as you stop at a light or sign no heat...drive off and you have heat. I was thinking clogged radiator or heater core...hoping it's the former.
View 14 RepliesIts a 2005 Elantra i dont know the sub model, but they said the heat will be working just fine, then out of no where it stops, at first i thought it was the issue's i've seen on here before about a bad blower, but its still blowing it just goes from hot to cold, and then it will shift back again after x amount of time.
View 4 RepliesSo this problem came about after I changed the timing belt on my wife's 05' elantra.
The idle will bounce from 1.5k to 3k exactly and continue this for as long as the car is on. Some times it will stay at some point within that range for around 2 seconds then continue to bounce.
I checked the belt today, and it seems to be tight enough but not to loose either...maybe I screwed the timing up? But would that cause this problem?
Here is what I have done:
Replaced the IAC valve
Cleaned the MAP sensor (no MAF sensor on this engine, that I know of...)
Checked and cleaned the spark plugs
Cleaned all electrical terminals
Checked the resistance in the throttle control sensor
Checked for vaccum leaks with carb cleaner
Cleaned PCV valve (3 times)
Replaced Air filter
Probably a few things I am missing in there, but nothing has been a success.
02 elantra 138418 miles. Before I cleaned throttle body engine idled fine, but know I can't get engine to idle below 1500 rpm, check engine lite is on, went to advance auto parts, he pulled code, he said idle air control stuck, i am hoping there is something i can do before spending $ and replacing it.
View 6 RepliesNew iac and now runs at 3000, replaced iac, input shft speed sensor,and #3 fuel inlector because of codes. Have factory shop manual. Old iac had higher than factory ohm resistance by 5 ohms on each test of terminals 1 and 2 and then on 2 and 3. new iac [wells] is 4 ohms higher on both tests . Old iac ran at 1200 rpm new at 3000 rpm. tps is smooth on resistance test so assume it is ok. Blocked off all hoses to intake manifold to check for open pcv or evap. valve but still the same. 2001 elantra gls is giving me a fit. soft reset of ecm did nothing. Pulling pigtail on iac will drop rpm's to about 1100 but runs rough.
View 8 RepliesI have 2005 elantra ve and I got rough idle stop for a while.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2003 Elantra GLS that has two issues that may be related. The first one the engine will shut off for no apparent reason. Doesn't matter how fast, or if the a/c is on or not. I used to be able to start it right up after I pulled over, now I have to wait about 15 seconds. Starts up fine and runs like nothing happened. There is no particular time frame when it will shut down. Maybe once a month, then happen twice in a week.
Second issue is when I have to stop at a red light and have the a/c on, it seems to have an intermittent miss, meaning after it does miss it idles fine for a while and then misses again. It seems like a miss to me, feels like the car almost shuts down but catches itself and will idle fine until next miss. If I turn off the a/c I do not feel it miss. If I have the a/c on and put it into neutral, it does not appear to miss near as much.
The check engine light has come on twice for a day or so and then goes out. Car runs fine when it does. Below is what I have done since I purchased the car used at 104,000 miles. current mileage - 117,000
* changed timing belt, transmission fluid, brake fluid, changed oil at 104,000 miles when bought.
* installed new radiator recently
* installed crankshaft sensor (due to error code when checked)
Other than that, car runs great, accelerates good, idles good
My 05 Elantra 2.0, 5 speed won't idle when cold til I drive it a few hundred feet. It will stall. Only then will the idle rise to what it's supposed to be. Is there some sort of cold idle sensor/module that needs replacing?
View 2 RepliesWhen I am driving my elantra (engine warm), say I pull up to a red light or I am in a 'drive thru' my RPM's will go to under 500 and normally go under 400 which causes the whole car to shake and sound like it will stall. The car also has the issue with the Air Conditioning on that makes the vehicle have a deep rattling sound along with the very low idle which follows with my lights dimming or lightly flickering.
Milage: 177,000
Current Codes:
P0422 (catalyst 2 efficiency below threshold bank 1)
U0D00 (What that is)
As the title says the 2004 Elantra only has a/c at idle and low speed. It started with the a/c stopping, and a mechanic gave me as story about the wiring going to the compressor being faulty. He jumped a wire from the drivers side fan to the compressor. It turned on the compressor and I had cold air again. or so i thought.
Now, it's cold at idle or slow around town stuff, but as soon as I get on the highway it stops working and blows outside temp air. Is it the compressor? If not, I wondered if the fan (drivers side) is turning at highway speeds and not back on till I stop.
Below is a link to a video showing what my 2003 Hyundai Elantra is doing. It is idling very rough (Jerks at idle) and can actually be heard in the exhaust. I think it may be miss firing?? Does not do it at speeds over 60. Under 60 it can be felt at times, but only at low RPMs. [URL] ....
View 16 Replies04 Elantra GLS, AC works great and is icy cold at higher RPMs but gets hot when stopped at idle or driving low speed. Fan works, refrigerant level is correct. At low idle speeds the compressor just shuts off. A few minutes later or if the engine speed picks up it will engage and start cooling again. AC tech didn't think it was the compressor since the pressure difference between the high and low sides was in the correct range. Has this issue fixed by replacing the pressure sensor/switch on the high pressure side? It doesn't look like there is a low pressure side sensor that I can see.
View 2 RepliesI had some problems with my Elantra and I fixed (or tried to) them all this weekend. I needed a new IAC motor, the motor was reving up and down and I tested it, then changed it. I needed a fuel injector and changed that. I needed a lower thermostat housing and changed that.
These changes resulted in the following problems. The vehicle now revs at a high idle all the time at approximately 3000. What are the causes of this?
I know that when I was burping the coolant system (changing out all the hoses and the thermostat housing) I got antifreeze sprayed all over the top of the motor.
Here is the problems that I have now. Didn't have these before.....
The engine idles at or about 3000 rpm. Constant from startup until shutdown. It idles down when you shift it into gear but that is because of the strain on the motor with the brake used.
The transmission is now having problems shifting from 1st to 2nd. I checked the fluid, its good. There is however antifreeze on top of the transmission by some sensors. Do these sensors have anything to do with the shifting?
I have an '04 Elantra GLS with 274k on it. I've been caring for it myself with basic maintenance; that said, I changed the oil in it about 100 miles ago. Halfway through my drive home it started to idle rough under 1k rpm.
I've noticed a lot of other Hyundai's have the same issue. What would be/is the most COMMON cause of this? Timing belt? Basic tune up? I moved a state away from my local shop and I refuse to go to a Midas/Jiffy/ect.
2002 elantra hesitates and sometimes stalls staring from rest. Worse when cold but still sluggish after warm up. Where do I start?
View 7 Replies2002 Elantra idles high, 2.5 rpm, just when I start it up in the morning. The second I put brake on and put it into gear, it settles down and doesn't do it again until the next morning.
View 3 RepliesIt has 158,000 miles on it and you can feel the engine vibration through the steering wheel, seats, and floorboard, and especially through the gas and brake pedals! Under the hood the engine shakes in place and very badly . it stops at about 1500 rpm and got worse when I installed a intake...
View 2 RepliesI had a rough idle and now car wont start. 2002 elantra, 4 cylinder. replaced tps, replaced fuel filer, cleaned IAC. I can hear fuel pump car wont stay running...
View 22 Replies