Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Lower Control Arm Bolt Spinning
Dec 26, 2015
I just might be out of luck but wanted to check here first. My driver side lower control arm is dangerously rusted. I bought a replacement and was able to get everything undone except 1 of the 2 bolts that go into the sub-frame. The one towards the rear of the vehicle came out ok. The one towards the front of the vehicle just spins. I have read that it is probably a welded nut to the frame that has broken free and is just spinning inside the frame.
I have seen pictures and another thread on here (but for a santa-fe) where the owner had just drilled a 1 3/4" hole through the bottom of the subframe to grab that nut. Well mine is in a location that a 1 3/4" hole would almost be more than the width of the frame itself. So I thought maybe just a "slit" in the frame so I can get a open end wrench up there to grab the nut. I drilled just a test drill to see where I would land, sure that I would be past the end of the bolt. But I wasn't. I can see the threads of the bolt.
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A friend was attempting to replace his control arms but unfortunately he ran into a bummer: the bolt is free spinning inside the frame. What's the solution? It's a 2002 Santa Fe .....
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How do you get the front lower control arm bolt off of the passenger side? There isn't even enough room to get a short socket between the bolt and the oil pan...
I imagine I can get it off with a box wrench and some sweat. But then how do you torque it putting it back on? Crows foot?
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I changed the Passenger side with no problem , the driver side bolt is hitting the transmission oil pan. I am thinking of loosening the mounts and try to jack the pan up to get that 1 clearance or worst case drain the transmission take the pan off remove the bolt and put in fluid in. If I drop the the transmission pan is there a filter in there? also how much transmission fluid does it hold.
[IMG] ....
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So I just replaced my oil pump and i am reassembling my front end and I just cant get my passenger side engine mount bolt to stop spinning so i can get the nut on (the mount underneath the car) , I have no clue how to stop the spinning
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Over the past month or so I'd been thinking the front passenger side of the car is lower than the driver side, but I didn't actually measure it recently. It turns out the FR side is about 3/4" lower than the FL.
I replaced the strut/springs with Gabriel Ready Mount about 6 months ago. I can't say for sure it was or wasn't this way from the beginning.
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I am trying to replace my control arm but I am having a few problems,
1. the front bolt on the frame side just spins but doesn't come out.
2. I cant get the bolt in the spindle to come out, I have been hammering away at it and even broke 2 sockets trying to spin it, still cant get it to move.
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Was replacing the struts and front ball joints on my wife's '04 Explorer last week. I get to the last one (driver's side front) and the lower strut bolt seems to be frozen to the bushing. I heated it up and beat on it a little bit. Nothing. Just wondering for some other way or am I going to have to cut it out?
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I am installing my coilovers on my gli and I have everything installed but the passenger side coilover. I cant even remove the old strut because the damn lower strut mounting bolt is seized and I've been trying for hours to remove it at no avail. I have used pb blaster, my heat gun, and my sweat. I dont have impact tools, just my ratchet..
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Just got off the boat (offshore boat captain) and my wife has been using my truck while I was gone so it doesn't sit for forever. I made a quick trip to the hardware store for some materials and back to the house. Total drive time was about 20min. Noticed that I had a terrible shake like a weight got thrown off a wheel. When I got home and started looking at my tires I was on the passenger side front tire and noticed oil on the driveway. That's when I saw the drop.
Now I climbed under the truck and looked around and found oil all over the passenger header and starter and basically all down the passenger side of the motor. I popped the hood and and the valley was clean. Then I felt around the passenger valve cover and found a lower valve cover bolt missing. Second from rear on the bottom. My question after that long description is, can one missing bolt cause a leak bad enough to completely clean the oiled areas and start the truck and in about 1 min have clean oil dripping down? If so, when I get a bolt should I go ahead and replace the gasket?
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My 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
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I've never owned a car with TC AWD yes but not front wheel w/traction control! At times when slightly spinning on ice or in snow I'll hear a 'click,click,click until I let up or it gets traction, is this a normal sound?.
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I have this weird problem with the cruise control of my 2002 elantra gt: I cannot set the cruise control at 30 or 40 mph, but I can do it somewhere above that (just went to the highway and set it around 60 mph). What could be the problem? Do cruise control systems need calibration or would I have to replace it?
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My cruise control wouldn't engage this afternoon and once I got home I noticed that the brake lights including the third light are on. Headlight switch is rotated to off position, checked brake fluid and its normal, backed car up and hit pedal thinking something might have been locked up but to no avail.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra GT and the climate control lights went out. I need 3 bulbs but can't find the right part # One I was giving is 97269 light and socket. Like to put in LED if Possible but can't find what # will work. dunno what T it is in LED but the bulb is very small. Here is a pic of the bulb I need....
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It has been raining, finally, in bay area, thats the good part. The scary part is that, today I was driving normal close to 15mph and took a left turn at a traffic light and the car spun out. This was the second time in couple of months. Both times it had rained for long periods, road was not water logged.
First time had spun out of control on right turn and second time on left turn. Tires are close to 30K old. Wheels aligned 6k back, rotated 1k back. And passenger side CV makes clicking noise occasionally. Do not remember, the CV making the noise around the time of spin out on both occasions.
2000 Passat 64Kmiles.....
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I'm removing my idle control valve to clean it. Everything went well until I'm at the last T40 bolt holding it. I go to insert my T40 bolt it doesn't seem to go in. So I'm like oh I guess it was switched to a smaller T so I put a T30 and it's to loose so I'm like aww cmon. Here are 2 pictures (not the best I know) of the bolt in question.
Is it actually stripped or it's some kind of other bolt? I tried a allen but it seems to slip to. If the bolt is stripped.
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I have a 2001 Elantra GLS. After reading info on the forums it sounds like my crunching/clunking noise when I go over bumps would most likely be the upper control arm. Is this the only control arm?
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well Im working on mother in laws 2002 escape...replacing wheel bearing and ball joints...I went with replacing control arm with ball joint already pressed in , I did try to press out old ball joint first but it wasn't budging...so I went on to the control and the back bolt came out fine...except threads at top of bolt look worn bad...anyways moved on to front and it was tight and moving along good...sprayed down with pb blast moved it back in sprayed again and waited a bit....as I went to bring it back out it snapped....I got the broken bolt out...it broke right at where the threads start...anyways Im having problem with gettting the control arm out while the rest of that bolt is still in there.
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I just bought a 2005 Elantra GT 5 speed. Nice car but the dash lights (including the radio and climate control) don't work. All fuses are good the rheostat (dimmer) is fine. Checked the continuity from the dimmer to the back of the dash instrument panel all checked OK. Light bulbs are good.
Basically it appears that I am getting power to the panel lights, yet they don't work. The radio appears to be stock with a factory plug. All other lights and electrical gadgets work fine. I can not find a schematic to check grounding.
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I've had two control arm bolts broken in the last year (resulting in the arms being replaced) during my '3 year alignment' program.
The bolts have been broken and then I get a call and a bill for the new control arm and labor.
Is it that common to break the control arm bolts when aligning the wheels? I do live in Michigan where salt is used on the roads.
There are some other things that seem have not inspired my trust (billing mistakes and not torquing the rear wheel after replacing the arm and letting me drive home) ...But, I want to be fair and if this/these are regular occurrences I'll go back and work with the shop.
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