Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Low Idle / Power Stutters At Mid RPMs Upon Acceleration
May 8, 2013
So my 2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS with 80,000 miles, I bought it with 70,000 off of Craigslist to use as a daily driver while i rebuild my honda s2000. Anyways the trouble I am having is that on a cold start the engine idle is almost normal like it should be but the engine just runs really rough and shakes. I do not have a misfire. However the current check engine light was an evap light in which i just removed the charcoal box completely from the system and closed off the vacuum lines. I then unhooked the battery and of course the light went off. I drove it down the road and ir still has the power loss but the cel did not come back. So cel fixed and i hoped the idle would improve but it hasn't. I do not know what to do next...I have read in other threads to check the intake gasket and i will i was just wondering, what this problem could be and how to fix it. As for emissions i don't really care. I have a buddy that will pass the inspection.
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So my 2005 elantra 2.0 CVVT has 189k on it 1 owner.
I got a check engine light one day and i read the code. Came out to be 02 sensor code bank 1. So i order a denso o2 sensor and replace the part.
I drive the car for about 400 miles to reset monitors and get a check engine light. P0420 cat code. At this point the car drives with normal power and pickup.
1000 miles later my car has lost power. It doesn't have any get up or power when driving normally. I take the car to my local shop and they recommend replacing front cat. I replace front cat, same issue.
At this point i'm not sure if it is a transmission problem or maybe my 2nd cat or something else?
On the freeway if I put my pedal to the ground the rpms surge up very very slowly,
Also seems like the car doesn't shift till around 4k rpms, seems like previously it shifted sooner.
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My friend was having trouble with her 2001 elantra. Her idle was erratic and her RPMs were constantly high. we checked every where for a vacuum leak but could not find one in any of the lines. We went on to switch out the idle air control valve, the throttle position sensor, and even cleaned out her throttle body. we threw up our hands and sent it to a shop. Come to find out there WAS a vacuum leak. apparently in the air idle control valve sensor there is a gasket that seemed to be missing. I of course didn't think about replacing a gasket when I replaced the sensor because I never saw one there.
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I'm currently moving cross-country from LA to St. Louis. Had routine maintenance done b4 I left. I've only made it to New Mexico so far b/c my car is losing power after logging 250 mi. RPM's also become erratic. Doesn't completely stall, but won't let me go more than 45mi/h. After a rest break, the problem doesn't re-create.
At my first mechanic stop, the computer checked-out as ok. That mechanic changed the spark plugs and also told me the 2004 has no fuel filter (fuel filter being my suspicion of what was wrong).
Today it lost power again. Jim Bob at a rural garage said maybe the alternator or fuel pump. I have an appt. at Pep Boys tomorrow, as the dealers don't have any avail appts. until Fri.
The contents of my apt. are in the trunk and backseat. Is it worth it to remove them (to get to the fuel pump) at the cost of another hotel day, or should I limp home at 250 mi. a stretch?
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,I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra (stick shift) with about 104k on it. Was running absolutely great till about a month ago when I noticed that it was beginning to accelerate quite slowly. If I pushed it and got the RPMs up really high it would still pick up, but still not great performance. Also after pushing it a little hard there was a faint burning or smoke smell. Note, once it is up to speed say 60 or 70 it has no trouble maintaining such speeds. It just takes a while getting up to them. And if I really need to step on it the RPMs sky rocket with no real immediate increase in speed.
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I got a problem with my 03 elantra, recently the car had a problem of stalling. I replaced the crank shaft sensor and that fix the problem, but the car always when idle and then press the gas to go feels like it has no power at all then all the sudden all power kicks in it only does that for a second when i press the gas. What I did was to replace the fuel filter that actually was extremely dirty,but no change i guess it could be the fuel pressure regulator.
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Yesterday as I crawled my way through heavy traffic on my drive home from work, my car started lurching unexpectedly. When I let up on the gas, the lurching subsided. I was able to recreate the behavior multiple times on my drive home, as well as while parked in my driveway. As the RPM exceeded 2500 the engine would lose oomph/power and the RPM would start stuttering/oscillating between ~2500 and ~2800 RPM. The behavior was identical regardless of which gear I was in (D1, D2, D3, D, or N), regardless of my speed, and regardless of how aggressively I was pressing the accelerator pedal. Every time the RPM hit 2500, the engine freaked out.
This morning, it did NOT happen when I tested it briefly. I was able to rev up to 3500-4000 RPM without any issues. I did read a case online in which someone experienced a similar issue that only manifested after the engine had been running a while. My car has ~173k miles on it, and this is its first engine issue. What might be causing this?
Video attached; also located here: [URL] ....
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The RPMs while driving does up and down. You can feel the engine doing this. You can watch the Tac go up and down. Whats the problem. We just brought a TP sensor but I say its a vacuum leak.
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When I married my wife two Fridays ago I also married in to her 2006 GLS Elantra.
It has pretty bad ticking which varies with RPMS, and how warm the car is, but is always there at lower RPMS. This has gotten worse the past for weeks, but that may be because she is longer into an oil change, and the filter isn't a great filter.
I am trying to do some research, but the search function appears to bring up items from all the different forums on the site.
Does this engine have solid lifter or hydraulic lifters? I am going to try a few oil changes with some seafoam and a quality filter first.
If that doesn't work how involved is it to replace the valve adjusters, or remove and clean?
I need to keep this car alive for a while, it is in overall great condition, 130k miles, everything works, doesn't smoke, doesn't leak oil, transmission is solid.
All that is wrong is the noisy valve train!
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Can't run a/c rpms drop to almost 200 from 1200-1500rpms. Really bad when at at traffic light. I have to constantly press gas pedal.
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2001 elantra has been revving really high on cold starts, RPMs will stay at over 3000 till u switch it into drive or reverse, Never happens when engine is warm, had intake cleaned out, did not solve issue...
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I have a 05 Hyundai Elantra 2.0L engine(Manual) thats been acting funny. There's a couple issues im having with it.
1. Not matter how far the gas pedal pushed down RPMs wont go over 2,500
2. Car surges and jumps back and fourth sometimes.
3. Idles around 900rpm
4. Sometimes when I take off I'm able to get around 40 mph, and thats where it tops out at.
5. Shifting into 1st gear feels a little spongy
6. Also it can go all the way into 4th gear without dying and the top speed will only be at 10mph
Things I've done so far.
1. Compression test cylinders all came back fine
2. Replaced TPS
3. Checked to make sure exhaust wasn't obstructed
4. I got a stethoscope and listened for the ticking for the fuel injectors and also got some fuel injector cleaner.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS with over 215,000 miles. About a month ago, I started my car and it revved up & down from 2 to 4 rpm. I took it to my mechanic and replaced the TPS, thinking it would fix it. What to do next. My mechanic fixes cars, but doesn't do it professionally. I don't have the money to take it to a dealership.
Now, after doing a tune-up and changing out other sensors the RPMs came down to 3 and will stay at 3 rpm when I start the car. When I drive it, it pulls on it's own without touching the gas pedal and is hard to brake. What else I need to fix or replace?
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2001 hyundai elantra. Car is almost stalling randomly at stop lights. Low rpms under 500 and stops. Sometimes drops to 100 rpms then shoots up to 500 right before it might stall. Engine light came up got misfire on cylinder 2 and 4 with codes p0440 and u0d00.
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I was driving my elantra today, and hit a big pothole. Since then, sometimes when I'm driving in fourth gear (I think), I'll feel a thud, and the rpms will go up a little. Then, when I try to accelerate after a stop, the car won't accelerate normally, like it's still stuck in fourth gear. 2005 Elantra ...
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I've got an automatic transmission 2002 elantra 2.0 that I purchased in 2009. About a year after owning it a weird problem developed that I've just sort of lived with since. Between 25-40 mph my RPMs occasionally "bounce" persistently by an amount between 500 (mild) and about 1000 (severe). There's a bit of fluctuation insofar as what RPMs/speeds it happens at depending on outside temperature and how warm the engine is (higher temps correlate with this issue happening at higher RPMs and a more pronounced fluctuation), but it's a consistent issue every time I drive. It *seems* like my car is always trying to push down the revs, hits a certain low point depending on the gear/speed, then jumps up just a bit only to edge back down. Lather, rinse, repeat. It's not simply a display problem as I can feel and hear the engine revs changing.
No fluctuations at idle. Above 3000 RPMs it's ALWAYS smooth sailing. When I'm actively accelerating there's never a problem, even if my acceleration stays in the revolution problem range. The car is never in danger of dying, but if the cruise is engaged (ESPECIALLY in the 25-30 MPH range at operating temp) the car shudders uphill - I assume this is because the RPMs dip a bit too low for the gear the car is in. If I press the throttle the car responds normally. This bouncing RPM issue itself NEVER causes the car to shift gears in response, and if it's happening and the car DOES shift everything works fine until it goes back to trying to maintain RPMs in the problem range. When it happens I usually just increase speed by 5MPH and it goes away, though if the car is warm and the speed limit doesn't allow me to go fast enough to get out of the problem range it just does the same thing at the slightly higher RPMs.
When the problem started my car threw an OBD code - I didn't read it myself and brought the car to a random service shop who SAID they changed the throttle position sensor, and the code was gone, but a few days later it was doing the same thing without throwing a code. I tried changing the fuel pump thinking it was a fuel delivery problem, but that didn't solve anything. I put seafoam in the fuel system monthly so I'm fairly certain that fuel system gunk isn't an issue. The symptoms haven't changed AT ALL during the 6+ years this has been happening.
The kicker is that a few years ago I found a SUPERB mechanic - the first one I've ever actually trusted to be not only competent but also honest. Described the problem and even demonstrated it to him. When I brought in my car to have the struts and mounts replaced he spent two days trying to figure out what was causing the RPM issue too... and couldn't nail it down.
Possibly related: after starting the car - regardless of how long it's been running - there's a brief delay between pressing the gas pedal and the engine responding. Delay seems *slightly* longer the colder it is outside, but it's never more than a second and a half. No further delays unless I shut the engine off and turn it on again. Replacing the fuel pump didn't affect this matter whatsoever.
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Since I bought my car and driven it I noticed the acceleration noise and feel more and more. At slow speeds and rpms the engine sounds like its struggling to accelerate. It isn't smooth like a constant climb. Its a winding up acceleration. From a stop you can feel it shake the car up to 3000 rpms then it goes away. It idles somewhat rough and you can feel it throughout the cabin and the exhaust sounds putter in at idles instead of a steady drone. I suspect a fuel filter as of I have changed my oil, spark plugs, and air filter. Could it be a timing belt or something like that? It also has a very very small leak around the valve cover gasket bolts.
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Girlfriend just bought a used Elantra. She told me about an issue shes been having with the car and how it feels as though its towing a trailer. I drove it for a day and noticed a few things. Vehicle has 110,000 miles
1. No CEL
2. Tranny seems to NOT be slipping (Revs climb just as slow as Speed)
3. Car feels VERY heavy at times. Especially on a start up-hill
4. No sputtering/misfires
5. Shifts up and down smooth
What I've tried so far:
1. Replaced Spark Plugs
2. Sea-Foam
3. Cleaned MAF/Checked Airfilter
4. Removed and Inspected BOTH Catalytic Converters and both seem to be intact. *plan on doing a back-pressure test as soon as I get the gauge from my buddy*
5. Checked timing marks
I put 1/4 can of seafoam in crank case and plan on letting it "run-in" for 25 miles or so. I plan on doing an oil change tonight as well as make sure the brakes are not hanging up (I should have checked this first, thinking back...but hind-sight is always 20/20 ) .
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I love my 01 Elantra great gas mileage and it just zips around with no problems. Recently had an issue where i was depressing the gas pedal but it just decelerated and never was able to get above about 20mph. I pulled over, tapped on a few parts in the engine and restarted the car... the problem went away. It has some hesitaion when I accelerate. The check engine does not come on ever not even when I start the car . . . What the problem might be ? MAF, modules, ECM.... ?
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So my girlfriend has an 04 elantra 2.0... the car will be running fine but then after so long of driving(maybe 15, 20mins) itll start acting strange..
It will hesitate to accelerate and shift hard and at higher rpms. Then at cruising speed it will turn off instantly(no sputter, hesitation, almost as if you just turned the key off). Seconds later the engine will come back but the gauges die and the engine will remain on.
At that point i pulled over and as i was on the brakes the car died when I came to a complete stop. Once the car completely turned off it would not start back up. However jump starting it got it going. The car is not throwing any codes.
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I have manual shift and the clutch is worn out. when in motion if I press the pedal the rpms jump but the car does not accelerate. only way to accelerate is to press very gently.
Q: do I always need to change the flywheel, which is expensive or changing just the clutch will do??
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