Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Loud Whine From Belt On Startup
May 24, 2015
I replaced my GF's water pump, timing belt, tensioner and roller on her 05 Elantra. WHen I started the car up I can hear a loud whine from the belt.
Everwhere I searched I read that it's too tight.
But in this video: [URL] ....
At around 9:11, when the guy starts the car it's the same exact whine? Is this normal or something with a brand new belt? Or did he tighten it too much? Or is it because her timing belt covers are missing the rubber grommets, and there is a HOLE in the side of one of them. So am i getting the full brunt force of the timing belt?
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2003 elantra when I start the car the belts squeal for about a minute, then whatever I do they start squealing again- turn on headlights, roll down windows, steer the car, turn on ac, anything starts the squealing again. I have had all new belts including timing belt, water pump, etc and it is only getting worse by the day.
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Steps to reproduce:
1) Start Car (reproduceable with A/C on & off)
2) Wait for wind-up whine (starts out low, then speeds up, then stops) -
I attached MP3 and Wav files in .zip attached so you can hear the noise - recorded on my phone). posted on Youtube ....
Listen to first six seconds. My sound file has the noise for a slightly longer period.
My car started doing this about a week after purchase. It's been consistently doing this every morning. In high elevation, colder climate the sound is louder and longer. Car's been to service 4 times. Service Trip summary:
1) Returned as cannot reproduce
2) Replaced Starter (even though sound happens After start)
3) Replace belt tensioner
4) Service stop, tech said he would contact his rep - rep said no fix "it's normal- related to component in timing chain". (Huh?)
Service tech said he's heard a few of the 2012 Elantra's with this noise.
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So I had my first oil change this past weekend at the dealer. I just noticed that the engine whine during my AM start-up is gone. They must have done something else to my car besides the oil change.
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Okay so let me start off my saying I purchased this car salvaged 5 yrs ago and have been doing extensive repairs on the car, new engine, suspension the works. But started having this knocking sound near my timing belt/water pump. I went into a shop and they said it was the ac compressor and it was going to cost 800 to fix, I said no because it seemed to high for a job like that and I called up my mechanic from back home (NY, I'm working down in NC). He said if the sound gets louder cut the ac/power steering belt since I don't really need it because winters coming up. I cut the belt, the sound is still there. The sound is really loud when I first start it but dies down when the engine is warm and unnoticeable on the highway. Just a side note, the ac belt has been squealing if the ac is turned on/if it's raining out also I am do for a timing belt/water pump change. I have done regular maintenance on this car, every 3500 miles with synthetic oil (spoiling the engine). I really hope I can drive it back up to NY to get it fixed by my mechanic.
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I hear a loud screeching noise (like a loose belt) when the 2009 Corolla starts cold. It disappears, and when the car gets a little warmer, it's gone. I had the belt replaced, made no difference. Car runs fine, otherwise.
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I hear a loud screeching noise (like a loose belt) when the 2009 Corolla starts cold. It disappears and when the car gets a little warmer, it's gone. I had the belt replaced, made no difference. Car runs fine, otherwise.
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This hot blond was stranded at the store's parking lot. Her VW had a dead battery I jump started it for her. When I connected the cables, my alternator was whining very loud.
Did I damage my alternator or did I put too much load on it? When I heard the whine, I pressed the accelerator then told her to start her car. Success but I am worried I shortened the life of the alternator.
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MY 2003 Santa Fe is fwd with the 3.5 v6. While under normal conditions, the engine lost power and began "chugging" and "bucking". There was also a belt slipping "whine" associated with this problem. The problem continued for about two minutes, then corrected itself, and I was able to drive normally.
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I just bought a 2012 Hyundai Elantra GLS (Canadian model) with 44k km. When I first test drove the car, the dealer (Honda) had the car warmed up and ready to go. As a result, I didn't notice the loud engine or anything. All I noticed is the engine was louder on acceleration versus my 2008 accord. I already bought the car but today I asked to test drive the car again (I'm excited) and noticed a loud ticking on startup? I asked the Honda dealer what was wrong and they simply said Hyundais are louder than Hondas. My 2008 accord has a ticking engine already but Honda is rebuilding the engine. This car is ticking louder than my 2008 accord. However, the car does quiet down when the engine is warm.
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When I start my car I hear this very loud noise. I think it is coming from the exhaust but not sure. This only happens when the car is cold(not weather) and after a few minutes the noise is gone. I have aftermarket lowering springs on the car, do you think that caused the problem?(I'm thinking no)...
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I have the 3.5 LX AWD 2004 Santa Fe 102,000 miles purchased new. My power steering fluid reservoir was leaking from the top a lot. I read here that the screen in it could be clogged. I went to the garage the manager never heard of such a thing he said, and never heard of a PS reservoir having a screen (I gave him the TS. He said if I got the part and wanted it changed they would change it. I did that. It was done 2 weeks ago and now it all dry under there. But, now.. there is a low whine on the passenger side under the hood toward the back, but when I put the A/C on or the heater on defrost (Not when heater is on, only in defrost) there is a loud rumble/hum from the same area. Shut A/C or defroster it goes back to a low buzz/hum again.
I had the power steering pump replaced at the dealer about 2 years ago, its not old. The noise is NOT any louder when I crank the steering wheel all the way to either side. The fluid since replacing the Power steering fluid reservoir is staying at the same level, full, no leaking. When I put everything on, lights heat only (No defroster), radio, lights the noise doesn't get any louder either, I tested that. The other night after driving about a half hour to and from a place I went to u-turn in a parking lot and that whine was louder for a minute and while driving forward slowly out of the parking lot getting up to speed.
When I asked about the PS fluid reservoir, I had also, asked the repair shop manager his opinion, of that loud hum/rumble when I put the A/C on (At the time I thought it only happened with the A/C when the compress popped on). He listened said "That's the A/C compressor it's going and its going and cost more to replace it then its worth on your 2004." So, that's the background.
Questions: 1. Just wondering if you think it is the A/C compressor that is the loud noise when on, would the A/C compressor even go on when the defroster is on, the A/C is off, and the heat on and there for still make that loud rumble??? Or does that defroster fact kind of mean its not the A/C compressor??
2. What is your opinion of the low buzz/whine noise now (When heat/AC off)? I can't pin point it totally in park when listening, its very low (Except that one point where it was loud for a few minutes driving out of the parking lot.) (The motor sounds a bit louder in it in front too just side observation)
I almost worried if the low buzz was the Transmission as its fluid hasn't been changed in a few years (Because the mechanic said sometimes changing the fluid when its been a lot of miles between can actually cause problems to the transmission) It was done at the dealer around 45,000 miles and now my Santa Fe has 102,000 miles.
Could the power steering pump be going bad in only 2 years from what I've described? Or could the PS fluid reservoir having been spitting PS fluid from the top for a couple of weeks have caused damage to the PS pump now?
The fluid never got lower then full when it was coming out of the top and only when driving, I kept checking it. The mechanic who put the PS fluid reservoir in said he had no idea if it leaked from the top due to the screen as he felt the screen had only minor debris that was not blocking a lot of the screen since its a big screen (He didn't look too hard though), and it was possible even a small crack in the reservoir could cause that same fluid coming out at the top. He said it could be either he didn't notice a crack either.
Or are these two noises possibly not related even though possibly from the same area on the passenger side under hood.
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I have a 2002 Prius that is running fine except for a loud noise when I started it up---like the one the exha fan in my bathroom makes, but the car runs well and there are no lights or any other indicator that anything is wrong. I am taking it to a local mechanic today, since I don't trust my local dealer. My car has about 95, 000 miles on it.
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My car has been revving up to around 2-3k rpm upon startup... the mechanic says it's a faulty idle air control valve. He tried to clean it but to no avail--the car still revs up occasionally.
I can't find the IAC valce in the Hayne's Manual. Might it be called something else? The idle speed control actuator, perhaps? Is this is job for an industrious do-it-yourself?
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My 05 beta 2 (CVVT) lifters are a bit noisy. On startup its a bit loud but quiets down after it warms up, but its still there. Kinda sounds like it needs a valve adjustment. Not sure if there is another way around the noise. Like a full synthetic or a heavier weight oil?
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When starting my car first thing in the morning, for the first few minutes there is a loud roaring seems like. The sound subsides and the car sounds normally after a little bit. The next issue is when I start the car after it is already warm. It starts very strange...It is a little hard to describe. As soon as you hit the starter it just turns over instantly, seems almost prematurely. And when you go to shut the car off, it just seems like it makes a loud noise and the motor abruptly shuts off. I am not too educated with vehicles, and I am just looking for some input. I just purchased this car a week ago with 82,200 miles on it I have never driven a Buick before so these things may be normal.
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Changed the timing belt. Used the red mark up top and the cut in the block on the lower one to get TDC. Changed everything with new parts. Double checked the marks after the belts were on (rotated by hand through two full turns and checked to see if the marks were in the same spot). I followed the write up that was posted here by U95.
Anyway, the car won't start. It tries cranking, but won't actually start. There is fuel and the battery should be good to go. There shouldn't be any Fuel/Compression/Air issues.
I guess my question is: If the timing belt is not tightened enough, would that keep it from firing?
Also, in trying to crank it by key every thing sounds normal (no knocks or pings or valves getting bent sounds) and turning by hand gives just the little bit or normal resistance but spins nicely.
I'll probably take the battery to get it load (I used my tender to try and start it as well, didn't make a difference) tested tomorrow and then try the starter (shouldn't be bad though, only 60k on the car). Otherwise I'll have to teardown and start over.
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I own a 2002 Elantra with 75000 miles.
This just happened recently this winter. After a cold startup I hear a constant hissing noise (for lack of better word) coming from under the hood for about 5 minutes .
This is NOT the kind of sharp noise that you would hear from a loose power steering belt but it is definitely coming from that area (towards the passenger side close to power steering belt/alternator), though I could not pinpoint the exact location.
Everything seems to be working fine and after about 5 minutes it goes away. I am not missing any fluids and don't experience any other symptoms.
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Well, two years after I replaced the pump bearing and the power steering is acting up like the belt is slipping. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes the steering gets jerky and hard.
The fluid level was fine, but I changed out the old stuff anyway, the belt is fine and not loose. I also pulled the pump apart to inspect it and it still looks as good as new.
When it acts up at a stop, it will squeal, but like I said, the belt is not loose. It's almost as if the rack is bottoming out against the bump stop (it's not) or the valve that lets excess pressure is dumping pressure randomly.
I took the valve apart with the pump and it looks fine, no scratches. Do the rack or valve go bad? If so, what was that like and could my rack have a seal leaking inside?
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I recently replaced the timing belt, tensioner, and roller in my car. Today I became concerned that I hadn't tightened the tensioner properly so I did a quick check (it was). I also noticed the timing belt felt a bit loose, so I tightened it to what I thought was about 1/4" deflection with 5lbs pressure—not what that feels like in that tight space.
When I started the car there was a noticeable whining sound. Before I changed the belt there was a slight whining sound (but there was no whine after I changed the belt). So I loosened the belt a bit and there's now a slight whine. I feel like the whine shouldn't be there but it's hard for me to imagine that the belt should be any looser since I can move it 1/4" inch without much effort.
So, should I be tightening the belt to the point where the whining is gone, or is a slight whine ok?
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I just changed the timing belt on my sisters car and finished yesterday and drove it today. A check engine light came on so I went to check it out and P0016 popped up. I've done some research and people say that it might be that the timing belt is misaligned or loose. I tightened the belt not too tight but not too loose. Note: I also spilled coolant on the crankshaft pulley and a bit on the belt itself. The car idles rough when driving too. I will tomorrow take off the cover and check the tension of the belt.
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