Elantra XD (2001-06) :: LIMP Mode / Sluggish Driving But No CEL
Jan 3, 2013
I have a 2001 Elantra GLS 5spd with about 175k. Recently it started driving very sluggish. Under any more than minimal throttle during acceleration or load/resistance (i.e. climbing a hill), it bogs down and will decelerate. No check engine light, no codes, etc. I have replaced the TPS, catalytic converter, Spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, fuel pump, strainer, and fuel pressure regulator. Without any codes, I am at a dead end. I also unplugged the MAP and threw the code for it so I know it is functioning.
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I got into my car about 5 minutes ago and while driving i noticed a ample amount of power loss. I would go half throttle and my rmp's would go up by my speed seemed lacking even full on it it seemed to be lagging and was a slow climb to 60. Could it be my turbo not putting out or something more serious. Its a 99 1.8t ....
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I have been having a problem where the Santa Fe will drive great for a week, sometimes only a day and the engine light will come on and the car will go into limp mode. It will drop you from 65MPH to 10 MPH, if you put it in park the RPM's will race and stomping on the pedal will not affect the RPM's. After you turn it off for a couple of minutes it will drive ok again. I have replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and the Accelerator Pedal Sensor, cleaned all connections and checked wires in them. I have also cleaned the Throttle Body. The Dealer wants to replace the Throttle Body.
Had Engine Codes:
P0123 - Throttle Position Sensor 1 Signal Circuit High Imput
P1110 - Throttle Actuator Control System Malfuntion
P0222 - Throttle Position Sensor 2 Signal Circuit Low Imput
P1175 - Electric Throttle Valve Control System (ETS) Valve #
P1196 - Throttle Actuator Control System Limp Home-Stuck
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My wife has a 2006 santa fe 3.5l limited over the winter it started acting up went into limp mode and would only go 20mph so I went and picked up a TP sensor well it went out of limp mode so I never changed the sensor well last month it started doing it again so I changed it out didn't work!!! comes up with 2 codes sometimes p2110 and p2118 but normally its p2110 2 times.
If I hit the break it kinda bogs down and pulsates.i took it to my mechanic since I couldn't figure it out and with advice from a hyundai mech. He changed APS didn't fix it so we changed throttle body with used of course didn't work I checked wires and didn't fined any open circuits what are the chances that i got a bad APS or TPS...
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I got a quick question about limp mode. I know this has prolly been covered a few times but I couldn't find anything too similar. Well, to start out my car cannot boost past 3lbs. If i turn the car off and take the terminals off the battery and let it reset for a while, it goes back to normal for a while. After a few times driving it, limp mode comes back on.
The first time this happened, the check engine light came on also. But once I reset the battery it turned off and went back to normal. But it never stays away for good, limp mode always ends up coming back...
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About a week ago my 2002 santa fe suddenly lacked performance and the check engine light came on . At the same time I noticed the speedometer stopped registering. I later discovered the poor performance was due to the fact that the vehicle was in 3rd gear "limp" mode. The code generated is 1602 "failure to communicate between the ecu and transmission control module". At this point I hoping its just a faulty speed sensor that's causing the problem and not the transmission control module.
Does it indeed sound like a bad speed sensor or does it sound like a faulty TCM or could it be a break in the wires between the ECU and TCM? Also, is it safe to drive the vehicle in limp mode until i replace the part later this week?
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I have an issue with my 2004 2.7 Santa Fe. I keep getting fault codes P0335 and P1372, the engine then goes into limp mode and is very hard to start.
So far I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor, the MAF sensor, the spark plugs, new ignition coils and leads.
I have traced the wiring and found no shorts, the only thing which does not match the service manual is that I get 5v on the CKPS sensor wire when the ignition is on, it said it should be 0V.
The car can sometimes run for 50+miles with no issues - then stalls with codes P0335 and P1372. I have a feeling its worse when the aircon is on but cant be 100% certain/
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2002 Santa Fe, 2.7 AWD
The transmission has started going into limp mode and causing the check engine light to come on.
The codes given are p0750 and.... I think p0751, for shift solenoids C and D. There is also the generic Transmission Control Module code.
Limp mode only occurs at higher speeds although shifting feels a little rough at times in lower speeds.
If operated in manual mode the vehicle can be driven normally at all speeds without going into limp mode.
Fluid levels are fine.
With limp mode occurring in automatic but not occurring in manual mode, is it more reasonable to believe the solenoids are malfunctioning or the control module itself? I'm inclined to replace the solenoids but find it odd that the vehicle operates normally in manual. Also, can the solenoids be replaced without removing the transmission? It looks like I could get the pan off but am unsure if there is room to get the work done once it is removed.
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I have a 2005 2.7L Santa Fe that was shifting poorly and getting stuck in limp mode intermittently. I read up on it and found that it was probably an issue with the input/output speed sensors. The codes confirmed my suspicions and I replaced both the input and output sensors. The codes cleared and the tranny shifted like a dream. Unfortunately after 2 days and 100+ miles the car suddenly started down shifting randomly on my way home from work. The CEL came back on and the car went into limp mode. Could the sensor have gone bad again? Or could it be the wiring harness that plugs into one of the sensors? I don't understand why the car would be fine for a few days and then all of a sudden be acting the same way.
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I have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.
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I have a 2003 Elantra, which I've had for several years, and love greatly. Recently though, she's been giving me problems.
When it first started happening, about 6 months ago, it seemed that she was simply sluggish, and wouldn't accelerate as well as normal when I pushed the gas.
It has gotten worse from there, within the past 4 months, sometimes when I turn her on, she idles very rough, and the entire car shakes. Originally when this started happening, if I turned her off and back on, she would run smoothly again. Unfortunately that's no longer the case.
If I attempt to drive anywhere when she's acting up, pushing the gas makes the RPM drop down, and she doesn't move. This has caused a lot of problems at stop where I'm turning onto a busy road. Occasionally when I'm driving around, her RPM drops far below what it should. For example, she frequently drops down to 700 RPM when I'm driving 35 mph... normally when going that speed, the RPM is about 2000.
Most troubling to me is the fact that the engine turns off on me without warning sometimes. I've had her do it when I'm at a stop waiting to turn, at stop lights, and dangerously, even when I'm slowing down through traffic or getting ready to pull into a parking spot.
I've tried multiple things, fuel injector cleaners, replacing temperature sensors, and I've checked all the valves, wires, and hoses. I've had it attached to a code reader and of course she never acts up while it's attached.
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I just changed timing belt all accessory belts and water pump on my 2001 Hyundai Elantra. Now the check engine light is on and it is sluggish in throttle response. It sounds smooth. I was quite sure I had the cam and crank marks dead on. I turned it 2 revolutions by hand and they both looked dead on before I started it. If I were off 1 or 2 teeth would that be the cause? And if so how do I fix it? Also will it hurt it to drive it that way?
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My wife has a 2003 elantra. When it is started cold the gas pedal is REALLY sluggish for a couple of seconds but after that it works fine. I thinking it may need a transmission fluid flush but I'm not sure.
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So I have heard that, it is only good to turn on the ECO mode when you are driving in the city or town. When you drive onto highway, you should turn ECO off. Any good explanation of what is the best method of using the ECO button?
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I have had my 2011 Elantra limited since April. I always have the ECO mode turned on. The light fluctuates when driving as I excepted to. I know the actual mode/light doesn't really do anything, but in the last months or so, it will light up shortly after starting the car and work normal but then decide to not light and never come back on until the car is restarted. I have checked numerous times and the ECO mode is ON.
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I have a 2006 Charger R/T. My car used to not start (even thought the battery, starter, and alternator was good). I had it fixed, and the problem seemed to be electrical. However after that, it would always start, but would go into "limp mode". I let it sit for two days, and the limp mode disappeared. However, it will only start on occasion. It won't start after about 30 mins after use. It won't start for a few hours. All electrics work fine, it just won't even attempt to crank. Try to start it later, it will work fine. Even though the check engine light was NOT on, I was able to pull three codes out of it: U0100, U0103, P0700. I did have to replace the notorious "pink thingy", but everything (should be) connected fine.
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Happened once or twice where I tried to back up a hill and the car went into limp mode. Neither the dealer nor my mechanic could replicate it.
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So I was driving kinda hard yesterday on the highway, and it was about 80 degrees outside. At some point in the drive, I got no boost from the turbo at all (my gauge also was showing no boost). I pulled over, stopped the car, and restarted it, and the car was back to normal. Is this something I should be worried about? I am running 93 program APR Stage 1+ with VWR intake and HPFP.
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My 2007 Santa Fe was acting up at one time, then stopped doing it, and recently started again. My wife is the primary driver so I'm not always in the vehicle when it happens. When the vehicle is started cold, it will run a short distance then the MIL comes on and it goes to a 5 mph limp mode. After pulling over and shutting the vehicle completely down for a couple of minutes, it will run normally with the MIL still on. However, by the time I get back home to pull the codes, the MIL goes off. I don't remember the exact codes, but when it acted up last time I believe the codes had something to do with the TPS, Pedal Pos Sensor, and one other I can't remember.
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So on cold mornings my r has been kicking on the epc light and gone to limp mode. The only codes are for the coolant temp sensor and an intermittent accelerator position sensor. Would the temp sensor really cause this? After awhile I can start it up and it runs fine.
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My 2010 Malibu has been throwing a code 0f 2135 also goes into limp mode. Code comes up as throttle pos sen. So looking I can see it is all built in one with the throttle body. Can it be changed with out any special tools?
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