I've got a 2006 Elantra with 102,xxx miles. When starting the car, especially a cold start, it ignition is rough, sometimes a jolt. It runs fine after that. What might be the issue? FYI, i replaced the spark plugs in August or so.
View 4 RepliesMy 04 elantra starting acting up yesterday. It has started jumping/ rocking entire car when putting in to reverse. What might cause this problem. It is hard to describe what it is doing being I know nothing about cars. It is a large jolt when going into reverse.
View 4 RepliesWife has a 2011 Elantra 1.8L... 5 years old and only has 24,000 kms on it.
Barely uses it, mostly for short trips, keeps it parked outside in the elements.
I've noticed the fuel mileage kinda sucks and has a rough cold start and performance lags while driving.
is it worth replacing the spark plugs? Always seems to fix these kind issues with my past cars.
Even with the low kms I assume they might need replacing since its 5 years old?
When I try to start my wife's '06, it takes a little bit longer to start than in the past (used to take only 2 turns or so, now it takes 3 or 4). When it does finally ignite, it's a rough ignition and then it goes to normal. Why this is happening?
View 3 RepliesMy GF has a 2002 Elantra, and recently, she's had a remote start kit put in her car. Previously, though, we were moving something in/out of her car and broke the shift knob and the rod became bent, so we had to bend the rod back to be able to put the car back into park. (The car is an auto).
Recently, she's had a couple rough/no starts from her car. There have been a few times where she would come over to my house and the car would not restart soon after she turns off the ignition. However, the car will start rough about 3 hours later and run perfectly fine once it cranks. This doesn't happen often, but enough to be troublesome.
The problem with this though is the fact that sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't, and it runs PERFECTLY fine. The lights are not dimming, the battery is not dying, the car has not required to be jumped. While having these problems we drove the car around for about 5-6 hours and it was perfectly fine. Her dad thinks it's the alternator, but the battery hasn't been losing any charge and the battery hasn't been dying. There has been one time where her father moved the shifter up and down and put it back into park and the car started just fine. Could this be related to the shifter, and how the car isn't reading that's it's fully in park to relay ignition? Her dad said he tested the alternator and it was "bad," but like I said, if the alternator was bad, her battery would be losing charge, and that is definitely not the case.
I had a rough idle and now car wont start. 2002 elantra, 4 cylinder. replaced tps, replaced fuel filer, cleaned IAC. I can hear fuel pump car wont stay running...
View 22 Replies2001 elantra has been revving really high on cold starts, RPMs will stay at over 3000 till u switch it into drive or reverse, Never happens when engine is warm, had intake cleaned out, did not solve issue...
View 5 RepliesI'm having this cold start issue with my 2001 SF, but it doesn't seem to be fuel related like as the car starts fine but after about literally 1-2seconds the RPMs drop below 1k and the car will stall if I don't put my foot on the accelerator and keep it around 1000-2000 RPMs. But if I happen to make the revs go too high and let them drop again it seems like it wants to stall even easier. After about 30 seconds it smoothens out and drives almost perfectly except for a slight lack of power than normal going uphill (A.T drops to 2nd gear, sometimes 1st depending on the incline). We have had the coolant temp sensor and the fuel pressure sensor replaced. Could it be the MAF? We did clean it one time but it didn't seem to work much at all. Recently out of curiosity, I disconnected the MAF sensor and started the car it being started for a few days. No issue with idling whatsoever!.. ??
View 4 RepliesI just recently had a new (used) gas tank and new fuel lines (front to rear) put on the car.
On the first fill-up, I pulled out from the gas station, drove 20 seconds to the next red light. The car stalled (automatic transmission) when I came to a stop. It was hard to start and hard to keep going, and had intermittent periods of extreme power loss when I drove it down the highway.
Took it back to the shop, there was an engine code for the O2 Sensor, so the O2 was replaced, but made no difference. They checked fuel pressure and the catalytic converter, both were fine. They wanted me to keep driving it until another code came up.
As the tank neared empty, the car started driving almost perfectly. Filled it up again, and the problems started all over again. I have tried driving it with the gas cap off to make sure air can get in to replace the gas, but made no difference.
I changed the spark plugs, and all 4 of the old ones were covered in black carbon from the fuel running too rich (i assume).
Also, when the car is idling and it starts struggling, the exhaust does smell extremely strongly and is grey.
Now, engine code [P1166 O2S Controller Adaption Diagnosis Malfunction (bank 1)] is appearing (I have to check with the garage monday to see if it is the same code they had earlier).
I'm not sure why a new tank would cause this, unless somehow dirt/rust ended up where it didn't belong during the changeover.
I've been having trouble getting my 2001 toyotoa echo to start in the cold weather and STAY Idling. All I can do to keep the car going is hold my foot on the gas until it warms up, then it stays running, low idle, but running. It starts fine the rest of the day, but that first start in the morning doesn't take. The check engine light comes on and stays on, and the car seems to idle rough at stops.
At first the Mechanic I took it to (good guys) cleaned out my throttle body (physically and chemically) and this seemed to solve the problem for a couple weeks. I'm located in Toronto, Canada, and we're heading into cold weather and I just want a car that starts. It started up again recently and I'm now being told (on my second visit to the mechanic) that it's my throttle body/idle control and that this part needs to be replaced, to the tune of 627.00 + labour.
I have a 2010 euro spec GTI DSG with 140.000 km (86.000 miles)
The problems i have..
- Rough vibrations.
- The car starts quick but there is big jolt when the engine fires, shifts or turns of.
What has been done to the car
**New mechatronic 30.000 km ago (replaced with new revision on warranty)
** Oil , filter , plugs
** Carbon cleaning by myself yesterday
** DSG calibration done
** No errors codes
I am thinking its mounts to the engine or transmission? Other things I am thinking of ...
- Coils packs?
- PCV?
- MAF?
The car is little low on power as it struggle on uphills on low speed, but much better after carbon cleaning.
I purchased a 2012 Elantra Limited w/Tech last Wednesday and it has about 250 miles on it now. Downshifting is kind of hard. I've been driving with Eco mode on but have noticed the same thing w/o it on.
I'll get up to 45 mph and then let the car coast, every time the car downshifts a gear I feel it in the car. It causes me to jolt forward a little bit and is not very smooth. It shifts the same way while accelerating but then I don't really notice it b/c I'm speeding up.
It is annoying while just coasting b/c it feels like the car is braking a little every time it drops down a gear. Also, if it pushes me forward a little bit then the car probably is braking a little which seems kind of against the point of coasting...
I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra. I recently have been having issues with the transmission. When I'm in fourth gear, I will sometimes feel a sudden jolt, and then the rpms will go up, and the engine will seem to be working harder and be noisier. When I then come to a stop and then try to accelerate again, the acceleration is very slow, as if the car is still in a high gear. When I turn the car off and then on, the car accelerates fine again. Since then, I have put the car into overdrive off, and haven't had any problems. If the problem is in the fourth gear, could I just use overdrive off consistently and not fix the problem? Could that somehow cause more damage or be bad for the engine? I put about 50 highway miles on the car each day. But I only plan on doing so for the next ten months or so, then I will generally only be using it for short trips around the neighborhood.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2011 Hyundai Elantra GLS... Few months back I refueled my tank with degraded fuel (of course i did not know about it and some refueling stations in our country mix oils) and the problems started to arise with my car.. initially it all started with jerks and cracking sounds from the engine.. I then took it to the dealership and cleaned everything except the injectors but the jerking and cracking problem was solved.. but it still had a pickup problem.. whenever i tried to accelerate from 40km/h to above, the transmission seems to give a jolt make a clicking sound when downshifting.. and the acceleration compared to before has degraded.. I took it to the dealership again and their answer was drive it for 300 km more everything will b fine.. but i have driven the car for 1000 km more but the problem is not solving.. I don't know.. my warranty period is over.. in our country they only provide for 12000 km or 1 yr warranty.. now i have checked online and it seems Elantra transmission has bugged a lot of ppl..
View 19 RepliesMy moms has a 2010 Elantra with 30,000kms on the clock, and we have noticed since new when the vehicle is started cold in the morning it seems to run rough for about 30-60 seconds then stabilizes.
It's almost like it has a slight misfire, or slight fuel flooded from sitting overnight. Now if course we have taken it to the dealership twice for this issue and dropped it off overnight for a cold start, and both times they cannot re-produce the problem.......surprise.
I have a 2003 Santa Fe 3.5l FWD 155k miles. Car has been incredibly trouble free until now. When the transmission up-shifts from 2nd to 3rd there is a hard jolt. All other up-shift and down-shift points work smooth. Occasionally will shift smooth just after I start the car or if I am accelerating hard. The rough shift happens whether I am in D or use the "manual" shift control. This coincidentally(?) started just about the time I had a battery die hard and an O2 sensor fail. Both have been replaced. Changed the AT fluid and no difference. No engine codes, but I think the AT codes don't show there? What might be going on? Any chance the battery failure had anything to do with this? Seems odd that battery, O2 sensor and transmission all start acting up at the same time.
View 5 RepliesI have 2005 elantra ve and I got rough idle stop for a while.
View 12 RepliesMy car is a 2002 Hyundai Elantra with an automatic transmission. It was bought with about 79k miles on it and currently has about 94k miles. Last week I began experiencing rough shifting between gears. My CEL had been on for a few months but I wasn't having any performance problems so I ignored it. When I started having shifting problems I went to autozone to have the codes scanned. All that came up was P0441. I cleaned the purge valve and cleared the code. The CEL stayed off.
I continued driving and having shifting problems. The car slipped out of gear when it wanted to upshift. The engine revs until I release the gas. Once the rpms drop low enough the next gear would engage. This seemed to happen for every gear shift except 1-2. For my first few trips no CEL.
Finally, yesterday on my way to work I got a CEL, and it was intermittent, similar to other issues I had read about. However, the more I drove the car, the worse this problem got. It would not stay in gear while cruising down the road. I tried changing gears manually, revving the engine up and letting it drop to idle, but nothing would work. Luckily the car got me to work but it was a real jerky ride. Towards the end it didn't even want to take off from a stop. And it wasn't in third, the engine just wasn't engaging the transmission. It's like the car was in neutral. But moving the gear shifter didn't seem to work.
The car did not make it home, however. When I started it after work, it went fine for about 2 blocks and then started slipping. Within a quarter mile I couldn't even go in first. Turning off the car and waiting a few minutes, then going again would gain me some distance, but the car would start slipping again almost right away. I was able to turn around and park the car in my work's parking lot.
The problem is I have no way to pull the DTC's now because the car can't make it very far. If it's something simple like the input/output speed sensors, I'll replace those in the parking lot. I'm a DIYer and hate paying others for what I can do myself, but I may need to bite the bullet on this one.
Friend of mine has a 2001 Elantra, not sure of the mileage but it started running really rough, like it's on 3 cylinders. His mech wants to look at the head, thinks there's a broken spring or something.
I asked if the timing belts ever been changed, no it hasn't. My suggestion is it might have lost a few teeth from the belt and jumped. I can't see it being a broken valve spring or something worse because the beta engine are tough as nails.
He said the wires are fine, they probably need replacing too because my friend is the type of person who changes oil and that's it.
Below is a link to a video showing what my 2003 Hyundai Elantra is doing. It is idling very rough (Jerks at idle) and can actually be heard in the exhaust. I think it may be miss firing?? Does not do it at speeds over 60. Under 60 it can be felt at times, but only at low RPMs. [URL] ....
View 16 RepliesI have an '04 Elantra GLS with 274k on it. I've been caring for it myself with basic maintenance; that said, I changed the oil in it about 100 miles ago. Halfway through my drive home it started to idle rough under 1k rpm.
I've noticed a lot of other Hyundai's have the same issue. What would be/is the most COMMON cause of this? Timing belt? Basic tune up? I moved a state away from my local shop and I refuse to go to a Midas/Jiffy/ect.