My '04 Elantra experiences rough starting/running only when I fuel up. No dash indicators show up and I do not top off the tank. It feels like flooding but no gas smell and clears up in less than a minute and I experience no further start issues until next fill-up.
View 2 RepliesI have the limited with the push start. In order to start the car, you have to push the brake in so far and then push the push button. Lately the brake pedal is really hard to push down after its been sitting for an extended period. Once its started, all is fine. Its almost like I've pumped it a few times first, but its not the case.
View 11 Replies2007 Santa Fe, hard to start after fueling up, after that one time it cranks fine until I fuel up again.
View 1 RepliesWhen I get gas in my '04 Sante fe it can be very hard to get it restarted. It acts as though its flooded.
View 9 RepliesMy 2005 Santa Fe needs a purge valve.
View 3 RepliesJust bought myself a nice low mileage 05 Elantra. Every time I start the car with the temp control at max & the direction knob turned to windshield or windshield/cabin, the green a/c light glows & my compressor starts. I have to click the button off every time. The car came with no owners manual.
View 1 RepliesI seem to have an electrical issue on my 2004 Hyundai Elantra. When I attempt to start the car, at random times I find that all electricity is off, preventing my car from starting. My brakes and steering wheel also seem to lock up when this happens. I have no clue what might be causing the issue or how to fix it.
I had roadside assistance run a diagnostic tonight after being stranded and my battery and starter are completely fine. I thought maybe this would have been caused by my custom stereo possibly draining the battery, but that has been installed in my car since I got it and has never given me any trouble. I've double and triple checked that my subwoofer and amplifier turn off when my car does so they won't drain my battery.
As an example, tonight I unlocked my driver side door manually, then unlocked the other doors with the button on the door. Electricity was fine there since all doors unlocked. However, when I would attempt to start the car, the electricity would be turned off: no dashboard lights, headlights, car locks, etc. One time this happened when I stopped for gas and had to be towed only to find out that my car turned on without problems once it was dropped off at my house!
Very recently the brake pedal in my car has been stiff (won't depress all of the way down) after starting up the car when it's been sitting for a while. It takes a few presses of pedal for it to feel normal again.
I did some research and turned up a vacuum leak as a possible cause. I also wondered if a flush/bleed would be a possible fix for something like this.
2002 elantra gls 125k miles, Automatic
I have a very intermittent problem starting the vehicle first thing in the morning ( this has happened twice this week, but only 5-6 times in the past year or so). It will crank and sound as if it just about to start, but not quite fire. After 5-10 mins of cranking, shifting into and out of gear, rocking vehicle (not sure what actually causes it to start, if anything) the car fires and runs just fine, starting normally until the next "event".
Plugged it in and got no codes.. The only difference I can see is that every time this has happened recently the car has been parked in a parking garage at work on a minor incline for about 13 hours.
Just finished installing a new water pump on my 2002 Elantra GT when...
I went to start it, and it started for half a second and died. Further attempts to start were strained.
The battery is showing 12.58 volts on the multimeter so this was likely not the cause. I checked the fuses under the hood which all looked good. I don't know if it could be a relay or anything else electrical.
Other than the electrical side, there are two things I can think of that may be the cause.
First, being in a hurry to finish(which is probably the biggest mistake of all) I reconnected the battery too soon and wound up connecting the ground(I thought) wire to the alternator for a second causing an arc. I immediately removed the wire and followed proper procedures to reinstall it.
The only other thing I can think of is that one of the water pump bolts required removal of the idler pulley. The idler pulley demands the loosening of the timing belt tensioner in order to be reinstalled. Before removing anything I marked the position of the timing belt on the camshaft sprocket as well as the crankshaft sprocket so I'm really hoping I haven't lost timing.
Could it be something electrical? Did I over-tighten a belt or pulley? Is it timing?
My '05 Sante Fe 2.7 doesn't want to start after fueling up. I have to hold the accelerator pedal down, like we used to on the old rods when we flooded the engine, to get it to start. I replaced the gas cap thinking that was the issue, but didn't fix it. I get no check engine light and with 340k miles, it sent out several codes a while back at the dealer. Could it be the fuel filter or pump?
View 2 RepliesAlright so I've had this car for about six months now and the clutch was supposedly replaced by the dealer I got it at. The clutch usually grabs about half way up but sometimes it's higher. I replaced the master cylinder because it blew out, when changing my I take I noticed the slave was starting to leak so I replaced that about three weeks ago. Ever since then, the clutch seems to grab differently and seems to be taking longer to engage.
Now, I did the "slave mod" on the old one AND the new one so it's not that. Do you guys think the new slave is bad? I have high temp dot 3 in there (I try to only use the best fluids for my cars). It just doesn't seem to grab as hard as she used to. Like it takes a bit longer to engage. The clutch (should) only have 15k miles on it. The clutch parts are under warranty but I'd still have to pay for labor since it's a wear part. I'd like to avoid replacing it if it's that new u less it's definitely going.
2001 Ranger 2.5L
Mom was driving the truck and tried to fill it with gas, but it only took around $6 or $7 before it cut off. After that, she tried to start the car but it would not fire. It cranks but does not start.
It was towed to a mechanic where it started fine multiple times. The mechanic then took it to a nearby station where he put $10 and the same no-start happened. I don't believe he had a problem fueling it. He's trying to determine what is causing it. Later the car will start fine and will start repeatedly.
I do not know anything else about the no-start condition, fuel pressure, spark etc. It just has happened twice now right after fueling. Plugs and wires, basic maintenance is up to date. I believe the truck has around 125K.
On my wife's '06 Elantra, the hand brake is very hard to pull up, barely getting one click from it. I've done some looking around and have not been able to find a solution to the problem.
View 2 RepliesWhen I try to start my wife's '06, it takes a little bit longer to start than in the past (used to take only 2 turns or so, now it takes 3 or 4). When it does finally ignite, it's a rough ignition and then it goes to normal. Why this is happening?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Escape 3.0 l 6 cyl. She stalls or almost stalls every time I fuel up. I found if I turn key but not to start, it only severely sputters and usually doesn't stall. Replaced EVAP canister (and all but dust separator inside), fuel pump, EGR valve, pcv tube, iac, upper gaskets, valve cover gaskets, seals, spark plugs, fuel/air filter, evap purge valve, fuel filler cap, ftp sensor, all ignition coils, checked for clogged fuel filler neck, fuel/vent hoses from/to evap canister...nothing worked.
There is a hose I cant get to that ends unattached just past fuel tank and near fuel vapor(?) "tee" under car. Seems to come from fuel tank. What is it? Just an overflow vapor hose? Should it be attached to something? Anyway, I suspect fuel vent hose or valve on top of fuel tank since my options are limited now. Have it running great (except this issue) with 260,000 miles so really don't want to spend mucho $$. No codes thrown.
I have a 2002 Elantra GLS with the 4 speed auto and in the mornings or after sitting in lot at work for 9 hours, the trans shifts hard from second to third (almost as if it has a shift kit) and slips a little from third to fourth. The TPS was changed once and that seemed to eliminate problems at the 26K mark. I have 109K on it now and at around 80k took it in to the dealer with the receipt for the same complaint and what was done the first time. Dealer kept overnight and said there were no problems. I do know from having a performance TH350 built that the harder a trans shifts (up to a point) the longer it will last due to less friction on clutches and bands.
View 6 RepliesMy 04 elantra starting acting up yesterday. It has started jumping/ rocking entire car when putting in to reverse. What might cause this problem. It is hard to describe what it is doing being I know nothing about cars. It is a large jolt when going into reverse.
View 4 RepliesAll of a sudden my fuel consumption dropped from 28mpg as read from the computer display in the dash, to 21mpg. This was not a gradual drop, it was at 28mpg one day and 21mpg the next day. There is no service light on, do these cars produce codes that don't trigger the service light?
A few months ago the vehicle was getting stuck in various gears and lunging, this was from battery corrosion dripping down and eating away at the transaxle range sensor. I cleaned up the battery and replaced the range sensor and the vehicle was driveable again. It re-learned the shift timing and seemed to be ok, then about a month ago it seemed to be forgetting the learned shift positions after sitting over night, I replaced the battery, thinking it was in a marginal state where it would forget the program while sitting. The shifting is still hard sometimes but this seems to have worked but, now my mileage is horrible.
I thought I'd just change out the oxygen and air flow sensors but, then looked at how much they cost now, and realized this would be some costly trial and error. Is there a methodical way to troubleshoot this issue, any way to pull the sensors and measure them?
I am having some brake problems. They started grinding really hard suddenly one night while I was at work (delivery) on the passenger side and having recently replaced my driver's side wheel bearing I thought maybe something was wrong with the other one (seeing as how they have the same number of miles on them) that was causing my brakes to get wonky.
Drove to my Dad's to enlist his expertise. When we got it all taken apart the first thing we noticed was the rim of the rotor was all eaten up. Then we got the pads off and saw they were completely worn all the way down to the metal only on the outer edge, so they are wearing at a diagonal. Same for the back and front pad but the front pad was worse.
We thought the caliper was sticking and causing that since it was hard to move before taking it off, so we replaced and regreased the pins, and put on a new rotor and break pads.
Decided to take the other side apart to see what it was doing. Same story just not all the way through the pad yet but quickly heading that way. However the caliper pins on this side were easy to compress and quick to pop back so things were starting to stink like that wasn't our problem on the other side either.
We had a very tough time getting the caliper, although fully compressed, back on with the new brake pads. It was a struggle to make it work, but we did and then I made my drive back with less than optimal braking power which was probably not a great idea (3 hour drive.)
My dad had a sleepless night that night because nothing added up for him as to why the pads were wearing that way and having so many problems. In the morning he got online on Advanced Auto's website where we bought all our parts and then compared their brake pads to ones on OReiley's website. Well OReiley's offers two different styles of brake pad one which has a tab on the outer edge and one that doesn't. The pads that came on my car when I got it didn't have this tab and the ones Advanced auto sold us which I put on my car the time before I started having all these problems, did have a tab.
We are pretty sure this tab is causing the brake pad to sit in the caliper at an angle because the opening in the caliper is not big enough for the tab to clear it. This is why my pads are wearing at an angle, and only the outer edge of the pad is making contact with the rotor. I really only had like 20% braking power!
I still had the brake pads that came on the car when I got it so I popped those on with the old rotors before I went to work tonight (they still have a ton of pad left and its a long story why I replaced them) it's not ideal but I have WAY better braking now and its a temporary fix until I get this sorted out.
Why Advanced auto sold me these pads that don't work with my car TWICE or what I was supposed to know before going in to buy brake pads? Generally I trust that when I got in there and tell them what my car is and ask for a part they will give me the part that works with my car. And one time being wrong is fine but twice at two different stores?
I have an 01 Elantra Gls with perplexing issues. The car starts at 3000 rpms, and continues to bounce between 2k and 3.5k in both park and neutral. when I put it in reverse i get a very hard shift. It actually jerks the whole car. in drive and reverse, it idles around 1.5k it hesitates quite a bit to accelerate. All fluid levels are right and don't smell burnt. it takes me 10 mins to put 4 gallons of gas in. if i pump too fast it shoots back at me. i randomly smell gas while driving. Im hoping these problems are a couple of issue I can handle at home. i just wanted some input before i buy the manual. thinking vacuum lines maf sensor.
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