On my wife's '06 Elantra, the hand brake is very hard to pull up, barely getting one click from it. I've done some looking around and have not been able to find a solution to the problem.
View 2 Replies2001 Elantra, Hand brake stuck, is there a release button? I can not seem to release my hand brake. How can I release it so I can make adjustments?
View 2 RepliesI have to pull up really hard to get the parking brake to hold. If I'm on a hill forget it, I yank up really hard and then leave it in gear just in case. I have installed new cables and pads. I have also have the lever adjusted so it starts to catch when you pull it up about 2-3 inches. I've never driven another mk4 so I don't have any other reference to how well the parking brake should hold but I would think that I wouldn't have to pull up this hard to get it to habe any real holding power.
Any other vehicle I've driven with a hand brake I could easily lock up the rear tires. I'm lucky to get mine to lock while pulling so hard I think I'm going to break something. I've searched around and have only come up with threads about replacing cables and adjusting the lever. I couldn't find anything like the problem I'm having. Is this normal operation for a mk4 or is there something wrong with my calipers that needs to be addressed? My regular brakes work fine and the parking brake arms on the calipers allear to be functioning properly. They contract then spring back on their own
What is the cause for a clicking sound coming from Left hand side wheelwell area when I make semi tight Left hand turns from a parked/stationary position?
View 4 RepliesI recently had my Subaru Impreza (2011) brought in for repairs to replace the brake pads and rotors. Upon driving home from the repair shop, I noticed that it was a lot harder to pull up on my parking brake than before when I parked.
My question is: is this a sign of something I should go back to the mechanic about? Is there such thing as the parking brakes being on TOO tight? I just wanted to be sure.
Could my brake issue be related to my transmission problem? Neither are constant. Brake problem= sometimes the brake pedal feels hard, like there's no power brakes (I drove a car once. ..looong time ago. .. that had no power brakes or steering) but it will kick in after a short distance. Transmission prob= seemingly unrelated, is a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This has happened maybe a 1/2 dozen times, the first time and mostly when in heavy commute traffic and when going between 1st and 2nd gear because of the slow commute speed, but also at other times when not in lengthy slow commutes. When it doesn't shift, the odometer doesn't work (shows only dashes) and an engine light comes on (the sprocket/gear looking one). Usually the transmission will eventually shift and the light goes off.
I read that the brake problem might be a vacuum hose problem? Something about a booster? Is this dangerous? or is it like having a car w/ no power brakes? Going to have my transmission looked at this week. Read on another site about dropping valve seats on this year car. If there's a major transmission problem, I'm wondering if it's worth fixing? I changed, timing belt, water pump, front and rears brakes, tires. 143,000 miles.
Having issue with the hand brake? It works fine, just when I want to release it, the brake light stays on and when you drive away hand brake warning comes up and I have to play with the handle to make the brake light go away after release...
View 8 RepliesI have a 2004 Elantra GLS. My left rear brake was hanging (wheel was very hot to the touch after driving, while other wheels were not), so I had a friend check the brake pads. We decided to replace the pads and rotors. While doing so, the parking brake seemed stuck in the on position, so I opted to have him disconnect it completely until I could afford to replace it. I had used it for the first time about 2 weeks before I noticed the hot brake problem, so we figured that must have been why the brake was hanging.
My friend replaced the rotors and pads, put some penetrant/lubricant on the piston of the caliper and reassembled the brakes. He did use the special tool to spin the caliper in when putting the pads on, however he didn't know that was necessary and tried to force them in with a C-clamp first.
Now, I seem to have two problems:
1. The left rear brake still hangs sometimes. I will drive the car and when I park it I can feel the heat coming off of the left rear wheel. It is extremely hot, so I know the brake is hanging (even with the parking brake disconnected). What is the problem here? Is the caliper bad? Would replacing the caliper solve the problem? Does the parking brake have to be connected to stop the caliper from hanging up?
2. My second problem is the pulsating of the brakes. I am afraid the rotor is warped because of the heat, or maybe he didn't clean everything well enough before he put the new rotor on. How can I figure out what the problem is? Is there a way to check a rotor to see if it is warped? Could there be another reason I feel the pulsating brakes? By the way, the brake fluid is full.
If the caliper needs to be replaced and I can leave the parking brake disconnected, are there any special instructions my friend should know about before working on this? He does work on a lot of cars and rebuilds cars to sell, so he is pretty knowledgeable. I think the only thing he didn't know about was rotating the piston. I would like to provide him with detailed instructions if necessary.
I have the limited with the push start. In order to start the car, you have to push the brake in so far and then push the push button. Lately the brake pedal is really hard to push down after its been sitting for an extended period. Once its started, all is fine. Its almost like I've pumped it a few times first, but its not the case.
View 11 RepliesMy '04 Elantra experiences rough starting/running only when I fuel up. No dash indicators show up and I do not top off the tank. It feels like flooding but no gas smell and clears up in less than a minute and I experience no further start issues until next fill-up.
View 2 RepliesWanted to ask B6 owners first, from time to time I hear what I think is a backfire after doing a hard pull in 3rd but never in 2nd. Now I'm not sure its a backfire but after I shift to 4th I hear a small pop from the back of the wagon. Don't know if this will happen in 4th after a pull, have not had enough road or balls to do this. ( In Oregon you get a huge ticket and license pulled for 30 days for anything over 100.) Everything runs fine, I only have the Neuspeed intake for the autos and thats it. Any thoughts you B6 owners have B4 I go to the 2.0 fsi page would be great. Here are some pics from the big snow storm we had here in Portland back during xmas. The Thule chains worked great when I was not high centered.
View 3 RepliesWhen I try to start my wife's '06, it takes a little bit longer to start than in the past (used to take only 2 turns or so, now it takes 3 or 4). When it does finally ignite, it's a rough ignition and then it goes to normal. Why this is happening?
View 3 RepliesThe 3rd row seat in my 2006 Mazda MPV doesn't secure itself to the two clamps on either side no matter how hard I pull on the back strap. What to do?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Elantra GLS with the 4 speed auto and in the mornings or after sitting in lot at work for 9 hours, the trans shifts hard from second to third (almost as if it has a shift kit) and slips a little from third to fourth. The TPS was changed once and that seemed to eliminate problems at the 26K mark. I have 109K on it now and at around 80k took it in to the dealer with the receipt for the same complaint and what was done the first time. Dealer kept overnight and said there were no problems. I do know from having a performance TH350 built that the harder a trans shifts (up to a point) the longer it will last due to less friction on clutches and bands.
View 6 RepliesMy 04 elantra starting acting up yesterday. It has started jumping/ rocking entire car when putting in to reverse. What might cause this problem. It is hard to describe what it is doing being I know nothing about cars. It is a large jolt when going into reverse.
View 4 RepliesAll of a sudden my fuel consumption dropped from 28mpg as read from the computer display in the dash, to 21mpg. This was not a gradual drop, it was at 28mpg one day and 21mpg the next day. There is no service light on, do these cars produce codes that don't trigger the service light?
A few months ago the vehicle was getting stuck in various gears and lunging, this was from battery corrosion dripping down and eating away at the transaxle range sensor. I cleaned up the battery and replaced the range sensor and the vehicle was driveable again. It re-learned the shift timing and seemed to be ok, then about a month ago it seemed to be forgetting the learned shift positions after sitting over night, I replaced the battery, thinking it was in a marginal state where it would forget the program while sitting. The shifting is still hard sometimes but this seems to have worked but, now my mileage is horrible.
I thought I'd just change out the oxygen and air flow sensors but, then looked at how much they cost now, and realized this would be some costly trial and error. Is there a methodical way to troubleshoot this issue, any way to pull the sensors and measure them?
I am having some brake problems. They started grinding really hard suddenly one night while I was at work (delivery) on the passenger side and having recently replaced my driver's side wheel bearing I thought maybe something was wrong with the other one (seeing as how they have the same number of miles on them) that was causing my brakes to get wonky.
Drove to my Dad's to enlist his expertise. When we got it all taken apart the first thing we noticed was the rim of the rotor was all eaten up. Then we got the pads off and saw they were completely worn all the way down to the metal only on the outer edge, so they are wearing at a diagonal. Same for the back and front pad but the front pad was worse.
We thought the caliper was sticking and causing that since it was hard to move before taking it off, so we replaced and regreased the pins, and put on a new rotor and break pads.
Decided to take the other side apart to see what it was doing. Same story just not all the way through the pad yet but quickly heading that way. However the caliper pins on this side were easy to compress and quick to pop back so things were starting to stink like that wasn't our problem on the other side either.
We had a very tough time getting the caliper, although fully compressed, back on with the new brake pads. It was a struggle to make it work, but we did and then I made my drive back with less than optimal braking power which was probably not a great idea (3 hour drive.)
My dad had a sleepless night that night because nothing added up for him as to why the pads were wearing that way and having so many problems. In the morning he got online on Advanced Auto's website where we bought all our parts and then compared their brake pads to ones on OReiley's website. Well OReiley's offers two different styles of brake pad one which has a tab on the outer edge and one that doesn't. The pads that came on my car when I got it didn't have this tab and the ones Advanced auto sold us which I put on my car the time before I started having all these problems, did have a tab.
We are pretty sure this tab is causing the brake pad to sit in the caliper at an angle because the opening in the caliper is not big enough for the tab to clear it. This is why my pads are wearing at an angle, and only the outer edge of the pad is making contact with the rotor. I really only had like 20% braking power!
I still had the brake pads that came on the car when I got it so I popped those on with the old rotors before I went to work tonight (they still have a ton of pad left and its a long story why I replaced them) it's not ideal but I have WAY better braking now and its a temporary fix until I get this sorted out.
Why Advanced auto sold me these pads that don't work with my car TWICE or what I was supposed to know before going in to buy brake pads? Generally I trust that when I got in there and tell them what my car is and ask for a part they will give me the part that works with my car. And one time being wrong is fine but twice at two different stores?
I have an 01 Elantra Gls with perplexing issues. The car starts at 3000 rpms, and continues to bounce between 2k and 3.5k in both park and neutral. when I put it in reverse i get a very hard shift. It actually jerks the whole car. in drive and reverse, it idles around 1.5k it hesitates quite a bit to accelerate. All fluid levels are right and don't smell burnt. it takes me 10 mins to put 4 gallons of gas in. if i pump too fast it shoots back at me. i randomly smell gas while driving. Im hoping these problems are a couple of issue I can handle at home. i just wanted some input before i buy the manual. thinking vacuum lines maf sensor.
View 7 Replies2003 elentra. yesterday my friend went to start her car and it wouldn't start. she said it sounded like a baseball card in bike spokes. later that night they tried it again and gave it gas while starting it. it started right up. the car runs fine after they get it started. the check engine light isn't on. and there is increase scent of gas while driving it.
View 3 RepliesWhen I brake hard. My truck wants to veer right. It drives straight otherwise.
I recently had my front shock replaced and prior tp that my truck did the same thing, although it was much worse since my left front shock was leaking. Originally I thought it was pulling because of the bad shock but now that thet've been replaced I am not to sure.
Alignment issue or something else entirely? Coud bad rear shocks cause the issue?
Last night it was just below freezing and the roads were a little damp so I figured I'd see at what point ESP would kick in on a hard 2nd gear pull. Sure enough power cuts off at around 4000-4500 rpm.
Turn "off" ESP, try another hard 2nd gear pull expecting some nice tire squeal but I get nothing and obviously still no traction from 4500-6000 rpm. Was my clutch slipping? Is ESP capable of knowing when the clutch is slipping (I would think it had nothing to do with it)? Maybe it was just damp enough that the rubber was spinning in one place but it wasn't making any/limited amount of noise?
Car: GTI, Manual, Stage 1, Winter Tires.