Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Grinding Sound On Initial Acceleration From Park / Scrapping Noise During Braking
Oct 9, 2013
2001 Hyundai Elantra, with an automatic transmission.
1. I am experiencing a "grinding" sound upon my initial acceleration from park? This only occurs when the car has been sitting for a decent amount of time and the engine is relatively cold. To give you more detail: I start the car, throw it in gear and begin to accelerate. The grinding sounds is almost instant and sounds horrible. It is fairly consistent how long it lasts and generally once the car shifts to 2nd or 3rd it goes away. I do not hear it again until I park, leave the car for a while, then start it up and begin driving again.
2. I am hearing a "tension" like noise, also a little like scraping, when I brake at slow speeds coming from my driver side front wheel. I recently had my brakes replaced so I know its probably not the pads and at the time the rotors looked fine too. It is not a constant noise during the breaking either meaning, I apply the breaks, i hear it for a second, then it goes again, then it comes back, then goes away. Again it sounds like a mix between scrapping metal and tension.
What it could be, what I could look at on my own or how to get it resolved?
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I just had my front axels replaced. The Cv's were clicking. That problem was fixed.
Metal clunk at initial acceleration and hard braking (none during steering)...
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So, last week I got my transmission replaced and they also had to replace the CV axle because it was damaged beyond repair when the Transmission self-distructed. They drove it after all the repairs and said it was driving fine, just that it had a belt squeak.
On my way home (30 min drive) about 10 minutes in, still in the city, my brakes start making a grinding noise and sort of a thump thump thump when I brake which sounds like its coming from the passenger side front, it makes me really nervous. It doesn't sound like any brake grindy noise Ive ever heard before and it wasn't making any brake noises before it broke down. (On a side note: it also made a weird noise maybe the first 3 times I drove it after getting it back and I turned the wheel hard to back out of a parking space, that used to be when I heard the belt squeak but I haven't made it squeak since I got the car back.)
Everyone I talked to said it sounded like it needed new pads so tonight I bought new brake pads and rotors for the front and got everything taken apart. The rotors didn't look bad at all, just some light surface scratches, nothing deep, no warping I could see, and the brake pads look almost brand new. I did notice that the inside brake pad on the passenger side was missing its little metal plate that is usually between the caliper and the pad, so I went ahead and replaced all of the brake pads hoping this lost metal plate was the issue.
I also turned the rotor by hand on each side while the brake pads were off and the only difference I could notice was when turning the passenger side one it made a little more noise almost like it was loose.
I got everything put back together and drove around the neighborhood with my boyfriend in the car to listen, the grinding noise was gone and it seemed to brake really well (never got above 30 mph.) However, on my way to return the rotors to advanced auto (45-50 mph) it started making the thump thump thump noise but without the grinding, still on the passenger side. I can feel it in the gas pedal and now it not only happens when I'm braking, but also any time I let my foot off the gas pedal. The only time I dont feel/hear it is when I'm accelerating.
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I recently purchased a brand new 2013 Hyundai Elantra and I have noticed that I sometimes when I brake fast but not fully slamming on them from going about 60-80km I hear a loud grinding noise. When this happens the roads are dry so I know that it is not caused by slippery or wet roads.
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I bought a new 2013 Hyundai Elantra Coupe this past August and this is my first car.
My first concern was that Hyundai advertises 27mpg in city and around 37(?) for highway. I acknowledge the fact that Hyundai recently had to lower their mpg estimates for some of their cars and provide reimbursements but however, these reimbursements are for 1-2mpg difference. My car after more than 6 months is still only getting about 14-15 miles on a casual drive in the city and only about 19-20mpg combined and about 24-25 on the highway! I am only getting about half the estimate for in city! I do not drive aggressively. In fact I am a pretty safe driver since I am a new driver and cautious about everything. I am also using premium gas on my car. I called the dealership I got the car from and they were trying to tell me about the reimbursement program which I already knew of... The reimbursement based of the 1-2 mileage difference is not what I want. I want to fix it and get close to the estimated mileage as I can. What is the best way to go about doing this?
The other issue is that sometimes when I hard brake, my car makes a loud grinding noise. My dealership's service center said they could take a look at this. I was mainly wondering if there is anything I should be concerned about for this?
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I have a 2007 Elantra with 138,000 miles. I never had any slipping or jerking or reverse issues in the past. I got into the car put it in reverse just fine then put it in drive and nothing happened, I put it in park and the car kept rolling like in neutral and started making a loud grinding noise. When I put the transmission in any other gear the noise stops but will not move and acts as if in neutral.
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I have the 1.8L engine with automatic transmission and when I start my car, it has a loud grinding sound that lasts about 3-5 seconds. The Initial rpm after you start the car also idles around 1800-2200 rpm for almost 10 seconds before it goes back to 1000rpm.
The high idling also stops if you shift it into Drive (D) or Reverse (R) but in Neutral (N) it will jump back up to the high idle.
This started occuring november of last year. At first I took it to dealership but they could not diagnose it because they never heard the sound. It ONLY happened when it was cold below 30 F, but recently it has been becoming MORE and MORE frequent and now almost happens everytime I start the car. But it won't happen if the outdoor temperature is above 60 degrees or if I start the car shortly after I shut the engine off (like a 2-3 hour break in between).
I thought it might be a loose flywheel, bad torque convertor, or a faulty electronic throttle control system. I do NOT think it is the starter because it starts everytime even on the coldest of days just that the grinding sound is annoying.
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This noise sound as if an electric motor going off for a second only. It almost sounds as a CD changer changing cds but for a second only.
What is weird is that it only sounds when the car has been off, turn it on and I start accelerating to about 8-10mph. If I come to a complete stop at a stop light and accelerate again it will not sound. If i come to complete stop and put the car in park or N, it will not sound. You will only hear it on the first take off when the car has been off.
I would also like to point that I have manually shifted and this does not change a thing. The noise still comes on around 8-10mph even if I keep it in 1st gear.
Furthermore, I would also like to point out that the noise is is not loud. Chances are I will not hear if I have radio on at low levels or the A/C fan in mid to high.
Again, the sounds seems to come from the outside the cab and it sounds like an electric motor going off for about one second only.
The car is a 2012 l4 with about 60k miles on the odo.
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Trying to find a bit of information for my dad. He has a 2008 F250 with the 6.4L PS. It recently started making this horrible screech on his initial take off from park. After he let's off the gas and brakes, the truck won't make this noise again for the rest of the time it's on. He ended up replacing the turbo, and that did not resolve the issue. I believe the Y pipe was checked and it was fine. What it could be that would cause it only on the first acceleration?
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I have a 2006 Elantra 4 cylinder with only 55,000 miles put on it.
Whenever I accelerate I hear this noise that sounds like a lawn lower under my hood, usually only there until around 45 MPH, then it dies down a bit. It as been getting louder and more....... screechy..... as of late.
Also, when idle, there is a sound that almost sounds like a metal grinding chugging noise. It comes and goes with no real rhythm or timing.
Additionally, there is a metal grinding noise coming from what seems to be my front right wheel area when I make wide right turns, as well as intermittently while driving regularly.
To my knowledge, neither of the motion noises seem to be happening above 45-55 MPH, or they are too soft to hear at those speeds.
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2003 Elantra GT ... Yesterday I went out and heard a sort of grinding noise from the rear. I thought it was the brakes. This morning I took it to a mechanic and he said it was the brake pad rubbing on some rust on the rotor.
This evening my wife took the car out and, in addition to the sound, said she smelled burning rubber. So I took it out and after a while figured out it is the bottom of wheel coil (see photo) on the rear driver side rubbing against the tire! I assume the mechanic didn't spot it because it may move out of contact with the tire when the car is lifted up. What happened here?
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My car has been making this grinding noise for the last 2 months. It happens when I put the car in reverse gear and slowly release the clutch. Rarely happens also in 1st and 2nd and 3rd and is always at the beginning of the transition when I am letting the clutch go. I do not know if it is the transmission, the clutch or any other part. I drive a 2002 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed manual transmission with over 120 k miles
Here is a link to a video I posted so you can hear the noise it makes : [URL] ....
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Okay I have a 2006 Hyundai Elantra with 56,000 miles. Whenever I have been driving for a while in town and and the car is heated up, I get a clicking/popping noise coming from the front end whenever I reverse, turn the wheel, and then brake.
I've been testing it more but it won't always click or pop when i turn the wheel, but when I push the pedal down to stop it clicks and pops a lot. And then as I turn the wheel back without being on the brake pedal it'll click a little bit more.
Normally this would sound like a suspension problem but the fact that I have to push the pedal down to "activate" the sound has me baffled. And the weird thing is, is sometimes when I'm turning into a parking spot at low speeds it will click just a little bit..
It almost feels like the brake lines are getting tangled up and making sounds. I know that's not the case but I'm trying to describe the sound. It's not the normal pop you would get when a tie rod is going out. It doesn't really sound like its metal on metal. And it doesn't constantly click while reversing or turning like it would if it were the CV axle.
The car stops just fine though.. I'd even say the brakes are pretty touchy. The other issue I have with brake sounds is coming from the back. When I'm slowing down ... at around 15 mph it will click in the back every rotation. It has to be coming from the drum brakes. That doesn't concern me so much as it probably is time for new pads or something in the hardware needs tweaking.
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Having problem with my car (2001 Elantra GT) - over the last month or so it's been occasionally making a very loud (not but consistent) grinding noise coming from the front of the car when decelerating at low speeds. The noise sounds like gears slipping over each other but cuts in and out. It's pretty loud and not a nice noise to hear! Sometimes it makes the noise when I brake firmy but not until I reach lower speeds... mostly it's just when coming to a stop, but it did it once last week when I was pulling very slowly out of a parking spot and not even braking.
As it's become more frequent (going form maybe once a week to several times every car journey) I have started to feel something in the brake pedal also, like there's something kicking it from behind. I took it to a mechanic and had to pay a ton of money to get a broken front left ABS ring replaced (it also had the front right ring replaced in May), and within 2 minutes of driving away from the place the noise was back. Before I spend even more money that I don't have on taking it back for extra diagnosis.
I'm told that this is almost certainly the ABS system that has a fault even though the ABS light never shows except when I start the car, and I've taken the fuses out of the ABS in order to confirm that it is. I haven't heard the noise after a few days of driving with ABS unplugged so I think we can be reasonably sure here. Is there anything that I can check myself or test (I'm not very handy when it comes to cars) or can you tell from this information what it's likely to be? Other things that I've noticed with the car which may or may not be relevant are:
- the warning lights for brakes, ABS and TCS are all lit with the fuses for ABS1 and ABS2 taken out. I take it this is normal for all 3 to illuminate with the fuses out?
- since unplugging the ABS I've noticed a slight metallic squeal from the brakes as if the brakes are worn down. Didn't notice this before I unplugged ABS though it may have been there, not sure.
- sometimes when going over a speed bump or just a minor imperfection in the road I hear a clunk in the front of the car and feel something move in the underside of the car. Happens mostly at lower speeds also, but not if I go over the bump really slowly.
- in the fuse box when I took out the ABS fuses I noticed there was a bit of minor melting/brown burn marks on the top of the connections marked (iirc) ECO3 and ECO4 on the diagram (large white connectors). Is this anything to be concerned about?
- sometimes when I have air coming into the car through the air vents it will become significantly warmer for a few minutes, then slowly go back to normal. Can't think of any circumstance that links the times when this happens (eg. speed, weather etc).
- the oil pan has a leak which is on the list of things to fix when the car works properly.
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No codes, transmission makes a slight grinding noise when putting it into reverse only. Has a slight bump from 1st to 2nd. I flushed 16 quarts of the sp3 through it. Been researching and see a lot of talk about the output and input sensors. Not my car but my sisters. Needs axles, timing belt water pump, ps return hose, plus have champions in there and old ass hyundai wires.... thing does idle rough, motor mounts are new.
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New GTI with PP. Less than 400 miles. When I brake at low speeds, I can hear the sound of the pads and rotors rubbing, bringing the car to a stop. It's a light grind/rub sound. Nothing disturbing - just not silent. Is this normal? Perhaps just the brakes and rotors breaking in?
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I purchased (2/17/16) a 2009 Toyota Prius with roughly 73,000 miles. I have recently (the past 4-5 days, except the brake issue that occurred a couple of weeks ago) encountered a number of issues. The issues occur intermittently.
First, while braking, usually when it's raining or damp outside, I might hear a grinding sound like grains between the pad & rotor. Or, the car will be gliding to a stop then at about the 4-6 mph range the brakes will grab and the car comes to a complete and abrupt stop.
Second, while idling in 'P' the engine will engage and the car will shift forward about an 1-2" then roll back (as if bucking). My foot is off the brake pedal. I have the sensation that the car is going to drive itself.
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My 03 Jetta TDI wagon, with 210,000 miles, had a grinding sound about 10% of the time when I braked, BUT ONLY AT UNDER 5 mph...that is the last couple of seconds before completely stopping. The car braked fine, but the periodic grinding worried me. Two weeks ago, my mechanic couldn't reproduce it; today, however, we did and he identified it as the ABS (and I remembered that sound from the couple of times the ABS has kicked in during winter driving. But my question was safety, and my mechanic says the car brakes fine...he has checked them all around and driven with me...and the fault is the ABS system and not the brakes themselves. Need to verify this? The car runs fine (I am the original owner, and for the first 7 or 8 years had it solely dealer maintained) and I plan a road trip this summer, but I need a little more comfort that the ABS acting up won't result in a more serious problem.
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I have a 2003 Impala. Over the past couple of months I have had an occurance every so often, very random with my front driver side brake. In both rain and dry conditions, braking hard and just slowing to break I will hear what sounds like grinding when I brake, like you do when the pads are gone. Well, I have had the car in and the pads and rotor are fine, the place I took it to even test drove it and tried but couldn't get the sound. I posted here a while back on this issue and the view was that it might be the ABS, but when this occurs the ABS light doesn't come on and the sound is just coming from the driver side front. What my next move should be?
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I have an 08 Toyota Sienna and yesterday I started to notice a very slight grinding or rubbing sound when I apply the brakes coming from the passenger side front wheel. I can only hear the grinding or rubbing sound when I am going very slowly (like the last 20 feet when approaching a stop sign). The sound pulses slightly like two surfaces that are not parallel are rubbing. There is no pulsation or wobble felt in the brake pedal. I'm thinking it's time to get the rotors turned, but it could also be the brake pads.
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I get a rhythmic thumping sound from my right front wheel when braking. The sound gets slower as the car slows, and when very slow sounds more like a grind than a thump. I can feel the vibration through the brake pedal. I've had this problem before, and had my wheel bearings replaced -- fixed the problem, but after about a year the sound came back. Just had the car inspected and brakes are in good shape (at least those parts checked out by the state inspection). Could it just be that I need to get the wheel assembly tightened up? (It's a '99 Honda Civic with about 145K on it, if that matters)....
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