I have a 2005 5 speed manual elantra that I let my wife drive it home when I drove another vehicle and the next day when I went to drive it it started grinding going into second gear. What can be causing this? The clutch works great on the other gears.
View 1 RepliesMy car has been making this grinding noise for the last 2 months. It happens when I put the car in reverse gear and slowly release the clutch. Rarely happens also in 1st and 2nd and 3rd and is always at the beginning of the transition when I am letting the clutch go. I do not know if it is the transmission, the clutch or any other part. I drive a 2002 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed manual transmission with over 120 k miles
Here is a link to a video I posted so you can hear the noise it makes : [URL] ....
My 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
Ok, i have a 2006 elantra with traction control steering (TCS). Brake master cylinder went bad so i replaced that. Now the brakes occasionally start grinding when i'm driving slowly and turning (usually happens when turning into a parking spot). When I jam the brakes down they usually catch. Sometimes the ABS and TCS lights will come on after this happens.
Another problem i've had is that is not connected to the braking is that the ABS and TCS lights will come on and the car will not shift and this is going like 55 - 60 mph. I've found that if i throw the car in neutral, cut it off and back on that everything is fine. This is my first hyundai and first car with TCS. I bout this car used with 75000 miles and have only had it about 3 months.
I have a 2006 Elantra 4 cylinder with only 55,000 miles put on it.
Whenever I accelerate I hear this noise that sounds like a lawn lower under my hood, usually only there until around 45 MPH, then it dies down a bit. It as been getting louder and more....... screechy..... as of late.
Also, when idle, there is a sound that almost sounds like a metal grinding chugging noise. It comes and goes with no real rhythm or timing.
Additionally, there is a metal grinding noise coming from what seems to be my front right wheel area when I make wide right turns, as well as intermittently while driving regularly.
To my knowledge, neither of the motion noises seem to be happening above 45-55 MPH, or they are too soft to hear at those speeds.
2003 Elantra GT ... Yesterday I went out and heard a sort of grinding noise from the rear. I thought it was the brakes. This morning I took it to a mechanic and he said it was the brake pad rubbing on some rust on the rotor.
This evening my wife took the car out and, in addition to the sound, said she smelled burning rubber. So I took it out and after a while figured out it is the bottom of wheel coil (see photo) on the rear driver side rubbing against the tire! I assume the mechanic didn't spot it because it may move out of contact with the tire when the car is lifted up. What happened here?
I am having some brake problems. They started grinding really hard suddenly one night while I was at work (delivery) on the passenger side and having recently replaced my driver's side wheel bearing I thought maybe something was wrong with the other one (seeing as how they have the same number of miles on them) that was causing my brakes to get wonky.
Drove to my Dad's to enlist his expertise. When we got it all taken apart the first thing we noticed was the rim of the rotor was all eaten up. Then we got the pads off and saw they were completely worn all the way down to the metal only on the outer edge, so they are wearing at a diagonal. Same for the back and front pad but the front pad was worse.
We thought the caliper was sticking and causing that since it was hard to move before taking it off, so we replaced and regreased the pins, and put on a new rotor and break pads.
Decided to take the other side apart to see what it was doing. Same story just not all the way through the pad yet but quickly heading that way. However the caliper pins on this side were easy to compress and quick to pop back so things were starting to stink like that wasn't our problem on the other side either.
We had a very tough time getting the caliper, although fully compressed, back on with the new brake pads. It was a struggle to make it work, but we did and then I made my drive back with less than optimal braking power which was probably not a great idea (3 hour drive.)
My dad had a sleepless night that night because nothing added up for him as to why the pads were wearing that way and having so many problems. In the morning he got online on Advanced Auto's website where we bought all our parts and then compared their brake pads to ones on OReiley's website. Well OReiley's offers two different styles of brake pad one which has a tab on the outer edge and one that doesn't. The pads that came on my car when I got it didn't have this tab and the ones Advanced auto sold us which I put on my car the time before I started having all these problems, did have a tab.
We are pretty sure this tab is causing the brake pad to sit in the caliper at an angle because the opening in the caliper is not big enough for the tab to clear it. This is why my pads are wearing at an angle, and only the outer edge of the pad is making contact with the rotor. I really only had like 20% braking power!
I still had the brake pads that came on the car when I got it so I popped those on with the old rotors before I went to work tonight (they still have a ton of pad left and its a long story why I replaced them) it's not ideal but I have WAY better braking now and its a temporary fix until I get this sorted out.
Why Advanced auto sold me these pads that don't work with my car TWICE or what I was supposed to know before going in to buy brake pads? Generally I trust that when I got in there and tell them what my car is and ask for a part they will give me the part that works with my car. And one time being wrong is fine but twice at two different stores?
Having problem with my car (2001 Elantra GT) - over the last month or so it's been occasionally making a very loud (not but consistent) grinding noise coming from the front of the car when decelerating at low speeds. The noise sounds like gears slipping over each other but cuts in and out. It's pretty loud and not a nice noise to hear! Sometimes it makes the noise when I brake firmy but not until I reach lower speeds... mostly it's just when coming to a stop, but it did it once last week when I was pulling very slowly out of a parking spot and not even braking.
As it's become more frequent (going form maybe once a week to several times every car journey) I have started to feel something in the brake pedal also, like there's something kicking it from behind. I took it to a mechanic and had to pay a ton of money to get a broken front left ABS ring replaced (it also had the front right ring replaced in May), and within 2 minutes of driving away from the place the noise was back. Before I spend even more money that I don't have on taking it back for extra diagnosis.
I'm told that this is almost certainly the ABS system that has a fault even though the ABS light never shows except when I start the car, and I've taken the fuses out of the ABS in order to confirm that it is. I haven't heard the noise after a few days of driving with ABS unplugged so I think we can be reasonably sure here. Is there anything that I can check myself or test (I'm not very handy when it comes to cars) or can you tell from this information what it's likely to be? Other things that I've noticed with the car which may or may not be relevant are:
- the warning lights for brakes, ABS and TCS are all lit with the fuses for ABS1 and ABS2 taken out. I take it this is normal for all 3 to illuminate with the fuses out?
- since unplugging the ABS I've noticed a slight metallic squeal from the brakes as if the brakes are worn down. Didn't notice this before I unplugged ABS though it may have been there, not sure.
- sometimes when going over a speed bump or just a minor imperfection in the road I hear a clunk in the front of the car and feel something move in the underside of the car. Happens mostly at lower speeds also, but not if I go over the bump really slowly.
- in the fuse box when I took out the ABS fuses I noticed there was a bit of minor melting/brown burn marks on the top of the connections marked (iirc) ECO3 and ECO4 on the diagram (large white connectors). Is this anything to be concerned about?
- sometimes when I have air coming into the car through the air vents it will become significantly warmer for a few minutes, then slowly go back to normal. Can't think of any circumstance that links the times when this happens (eg. speed, weather etc).
- the oil pan has a leak which is on the list of things to fix when the car works properly.
I have a 2005 Elantra GLS. I've noticed that anytime it rains or I hit a puddle, my belt squeaks and sometimes it almost sounds like it's grinding and I lose power for 4-5 seconds. From the front passenger wheel well, I can clearly see the belt. I noticed there are holes drilled into the frame, and I was wondering if there is suppose to be a guard there to prevent water from getting on the belt?
View 2 RepliesNo codes, transmission makes a slight grinding noise when putting it into reverse only. Has a slight bump from 1st to 2nd. I flushed 16 quarts of the sp3 through it. Been researching and see a lot of talk about the output and input sensors. Not my car but my sisters. Needs axles, timing belt water pump, ps return hose, plus have champions in there and old ass hyundai wires.... thing does idle rough, motor mounts are new.
View 1 Replies2001 Hyundai Elantra, with an automatic transmission.
1. I am experiencing a "grinding" sound upon my initial acceleration from park? This only occurs when the car has been sitting for a decent amount of time and the engine is relatively cold. To give you more detail: I start the car, throw it in gear and begin to accelerate. The grinding sounds is almost instant and sounds horrible. It is fairly consistent how long it lasts and generally once the car shifts to 2nd or 3rd it goes away. I do not hear it again until I park, leave the car for a while, then start it up and begin driving again.
2. I am hearing a "tension" like noise, also a little like scraping, when I brake at slow speeds coming from my driver side front wheel. I recently had my brakes replaced so I know its probably not the pads and at the time the rotors looked fine too. It is not a constant noise during the breaking either meaning, I apply the breaks, i hear it for a second, then it goes again, then it comes back, then goes away. Again it sounds like a mix between scrapping metal and tension.
What it could be, what I could look at on my own or how to get it resolved?
My 2001 jeep cherokee sport had a transfer case boot replaced a few months ago where the "oil spinner?" is near the rear portion. Before that went out i had periodic noise that i narrowed down to the transfer case using a mechanics stethoscope. Now i have a cluncking noise with gear grinding sounds periodically between 15-35 mph. I have annecdotal evidence from another forum that it may be the oil pump in the transfere case related to a TSB, yet i cannot find this TSB. Am i on the right track? It appears that i can get an oil pump for $60 but i have to consider dropping the case myself and pulling it apart.
View 3 RepliesSo, last week I got my transmission replaced and they also had to replace the CV axle because it was damaged beyond repair when the Transmission self-distructed. They drove it after all the repairs and said it was driving fine, just that it had a belt squeak.
On my way home (30 min drive) about 10 minutes in, still in the city, my brakes start making a grinding noise and sort of a thump thump thump when I brake which sounds like its coming from the passenger side front, it makes me really nervous. It doesn't sound like any brake grindy noise Ive ever heard before and it wasn't making any brake noises before it broke down. (On a side note: it also made a weird noise maybe the first 3 times I drove it after getting it back and I turned the wheel hard to back out of a parking space, that used to be when I heard the belt squeak but I haven't made it squeak since I got the car back.)
Everyone I talked to said it sounded like it needed new pads so tonight I bought new brake pads and rotors for the front and got everything taken apart. The rotors didn't look bad at all, just some light surface scratches, nothing deep, no warping I could see, and the brake pads look almost brand new. I did notice that the inside brake pad on the passenger side was missing its little metal plate that is usually between the caliper and the pad, so I went ahead and replaced all of the brake pads hoping this lost metal plate was the issue.
I also turned the rotor by hand on each side while the brake pads were off and the only difference I could notice was when turning the passenger side one it made a little more noise almost like it was loose.
I got everything put back together and drove around the neighborhood with my boyfriend in the car to listen, the grinding noise was gone and it seemed to brake really well (never got above 30 mph.) However, on my way to return the rotors to advanced auto (45-50 mph) it started making the thump thump thump noise but without the grinding, still on the passenger side. I can feel it in the gas pedal and now it not only happens when I'm braking, but also any time I let my foot off the gas pedal. The only time I dont feel/hear it is when I'm accelerating.
I have a Hyundai elantra 2002 that is stuck in second gear. I was driving it, I came to a stop sign so I put it in neutral and when I shifted into first i heard a pop. I started driving and when I shifted into second I noticed the shifter was really loose, when I tried shifting into third I couldn't.. it is like there is a brick wall. I can shift from 1st to 2nd but the shifter just moves up and down. Also if I let the clutch up it stalls the car. I was told that my car is stuck in second gear.
View 1 RepliesMy 98 elantra will not shift out of 2nd gear?...
View 4 RepliesI recently started getting transmission problems with my 2001 elantra.. the car would slam into second gear and the check engine light would come on and it get stuck in 3rd gear.. The codes I am getting are P0720, P0715, P1529. I searched and i found that most people that had this problem replaced the input and the output speed sensor and the problem is fixed.. so i went and i got two new sensors and replaced them i am still have the same exact problem... the car drives good for the first 5mins and then it would slam hard into gear, check engine light comes on the it get stuck in third gear...
View 6 RepliesI bought my 2005 automatic 4 speed Elantra knowing of this problem and feeling good about being able to track it down. how ever This did not stand to be the case. Start up cold shifts through every gear smooth as silk with know slippage or harsh shifts. roughly 10 to 15 mins after the car reaches operating temp on the gauge it begins to slam into 3rd gear only. Most of the time it is a double slam. Like bam bam real fast but indeed does shift into the 3rd gear then into over drive smoothly. I can duplicate it any time i desire to by merely pulling it back into 2nd gear and manually pushing the shifter back up to 3rd. it will slam every time with out fail. The man i bought it from told me he had this trouble and changed the transmission out with a 500.00 used one and did the exact same thing...
So I felt must be electrical wiring or TCM bad but upon examination i found no codes present to date. he threw parts at it and replaced both input and output sensors based off some thing he read on the net. also he said he replaced the TPS with a TPS from a wrecked car, still same harsh shift. he however could not remember how the fluid looked upon changing it and the filter as he also did that, nor can he remember what fluid type he used. I know shot in the dark right??? What is the actually fix such a hard slam when shifting into 3rd.
Just wondering to diagnose the noise my manual 2002 is making when I engage a gear.
Generally, it'll clank every single time I put the gear in gear. I.e. clutch down (quiet), shift into gear (clank), lift clutch up (clank).
Very annoying; has been happening basically since I bought the car (but obviously not when I test drove it!)
I do not think it's a motor mount, especially since I wouldn't think that moving the gear into gear (before lifting clutch back up) would cause the motor to shift enough to make the mount clank. If at all...
Anyway, here is a link to a YouTube video I've uploaded. Every time you hear a clank, I'm simply lifting the clutch to engage the gear. I do this quite a few times going forward and backward. [URL] .....
2001 Hyundai Elantra 183 miles.
codes- p0720 output speed sensor circuit malfunction, p0500 veh speed sensor a malfunction.
Recent fixes on my 2001 Hyundai Elantra.
A few months ago i had my speed sensor cleaned, and a power steering leak. No problem after that was fixed and cleaned the sensor. Soon after that my water pump went bad and i had that replaced along with 3 new belts. Just last week i had my front driver side replaced with a new wheel bearing and axle.
My Problem then and now.
My problem months ago, my car would be shifting into different gears as it pleased; while driving or sitting at a light i would feel it jump and it felt as if it was stuck into 2nd or 3rd gear as i was driving. My engine light would soon come on after this. To accelerate i feel as if i had to floor my pedal when the shifting or engine light came on. I looked up my codes and they are the same as they are now. I read about same problem and fixed it by just cleaning the speed sensor off. My friend and i did the same thing and it fixed those issues. My problem now is that i just had my axle and wheel bearing fixed (my car moves smoother and quiet) my engine light came on again, it had not been on since, i read the codes and they are my speed sensor same as before but my car has not been shifting as it was in the past. Would this be because the sensor needs to be cleaned again or replaced, or because of my new replacements on my wheel.
Our Hyundai Elantra starts up and idols like a dream, but when you put it in gear the engine misses so bad it doesn't want to go. What could be the problem that is causing it to do this?
View 5 RepliesIn my 2005 elantra GT 5 speed, I get a weird pulsating vibration in 5th gear at 45-50mph. It's noticeable enough to have a friend ask me about it. But it's very slight. I have 124k miles, and a new clutch. I've only had the car for a couple weeks so it's still new to me. My first inclination is axles or a wheel bearing. Maybe a motor mount. But then again, only in 5th?
View 3 Replies