Elantra XD (2001-06) :: GLS Sputters Whenever It Rains
Jun 11, 2014
My 01 Elantra GLS sputters whenever it rains. Once the car warms up it runs normal again.
View 1 RepliesMy 01 Elantra GLS sputters whenever it rains. Once the car warms up it runs normal again.
View 1 RepliesMy car is misfiring, as in acceleration 90% sputters until I lay the pedal to the ground, which obviously isn't good for my gas. What do I do? I can't find anything online and I don't want to be throwing money into things that don't work.
View 4 RepliesMy 2004 Elantra occasionally won't start. When I hold the ignition on Start, the radio loses power (but the dashboard doesn't) and nothing else happens. Sometimes, tapping the gas pedal will suddenly cause the car to start. Once, I had to stomp the pedal to the floor before it would work.
I just replaced the battery (and positive cable end since it was corroded in place) and recently replaced the spark plugs (which were badly burnt). There is a check engine code for "catalyst underperforming" which seems unrelated.
I suspect my car has fuel delivery problems. It occasionally sputters while idling and often has power loss while driving if I try to accelerate hard. It seems to have trouble shifting into 4th gear from 3rd or 5th, but that may be another issue entirely.
What I should check to diagnose this, or replace to resolve it?
The title says it all. I have no CEL.
View 4 RepliesI find if i jump in the car and turn the key quickly to start it sputters but doesn't turn over. When i try again a second time its always ok.
Happens a lot after i fill my tank, seems to never give issues if i turn the key to the on position and give it a couple seconds till i start it.
I have an injen cold air intake, and magnaflow muffler don't know if those would contribute to the problem? Should i take it to hyundai and let them take a look.
I also notice when i start my car the rpm jumps to 2000 and then drops down, i run synthetic oil and Hyundai filters.
2001Toyota Echo 1.5 Liter Automatic 213K miles
My car will start fine but when I start driving it will periodically sputter, particularly when I push on the pedal. If this was my old car I would immediately change the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. But it has electronic ignition so has no wires, cap and rotor. I just changed the plugs a year ago, less than 10k miles ago, so I doubt if it is that.
So, moving to the fuel system I thought I would change the filter, but the filter is integrated into the pump which is in the tank, and it like 125$. And it seems like to me that it is unlikely for that electronic pump and filter to need to be replaced hardly ever. I could be wrong. So, what else can I test? There are no codes, so I doubt if it would be mass airflow sensor or something in the air intake. Could it be a leak in the air intake?
I've had this 2001 toyota corolla for about 2 years now and its been sputtering ever since i got it. it usually happen when i start the car first thing in the morning, idle is usually fine but as soon as i put it in drive and give it a little gas it sputters, sometimes almost shuts downs. it has given my beautiful wife quite a few scares when pulling out on a busy street, by pretty much stopping in mid pull-out! so later on in the day it isnt as bad, usually just when we gas it to take off or pass someone.
But it ALWAYS does it when we go up the mountains here in PA, sometimes i cant go more than 35mph. Its been 2 years, im tired of this, i just had the second mechanic look at it without success. both times they said i had bad plugs. so i changed em. ive looked in forums and through that i learned that i can clean the MAF, i did, and i think its a little better, but not enough to see too much difference.
For What Its Worth: it consumes oil, almost a quart a week, and that is with an approx 500 mi per week. But no symptoms,(no blue smoke out the tail pipe and no spots on the garage floor)
In my 2003 3.5 awd I successfully got my used transmission in and running great. I made the mistake of washing the engine. Now, it runs like Cr@p. It pops and sputters. At one point the CEL came on with 7 codes mostly misfires. It ran ok prior to the bath but I am getting ready to do the timing belt and wp and plug wires. In the meantime, whats the most likely cause of misfires after a hosing down on these engines? I'm leaning towards plug wires or coils...
View 3 RepliesI have been having issues with my 2001 sports trac 4x4 v6 sohc fuel in. 132k mileage. The problem is I can jump in and it will start first try, fuel pump is heard activating, idle is rough, feels like truck is about to die, pumping on the gas usually causes it to catch and smooth out......after 10 mins. or sometimes less than that truck starts to sputter, step on throttle it dies faster, sometimes when stepping on the throttle before it dies and a truck is able to rev up and then back to idle and not die.
But most times stepping on the gas when it begins to sputter after running for 10 mins or so causes it to die once it dies it doesn't start back up and when key is turned on and off, no fuel pump activation noise. I have scantool data take off an autel 619 saved to notebook text format. Those are my numbers for the scan tool, suggestions I have gotten so far are vacuum leak, failing fuel pump, bad o2 sensors, bad MAF.......so far replaced fuel filter and cleaned MAF....no difference.
2001 escape 3.0 engine is giving me a headache. It starts and will idle no problem but as soon as I step on the gas the engine sputters and coughs but it does race up. I put in new intake seals, new sparks plugs and a tps and cleaned the maf sensor. It shows no codes so what am I missing? Can it be a fuel system problem ?? what should I be looking for??
View 2 RepliesMy Honda has a strange problem that is vexing my mechanic. While I am driving, the engine spits and sputters and sometimes dies. I try to restart and it starts right up but runs rough. Sometimes it takes a while to start back up. If I wait a few minutes, it will start again and drive fine for a while. Then it will do it again. After it is warm or when it is cold at the start, it won't do it.My mechanic cannot get it to do it long enough to diagnose. The computer is not throwing any codes. I believe it is electrical because when it does this, the speedometer goes crazy bouncing up and down. Electrical problem also may explain why the computer is not throwing any codes. I need to narrow it down because my mechanic is reluctant to start trying things as I don't have a lot of money to throw at this.
View 4 Replies2001 F350 7.3 ... Below 35 degrees, truck is hard to start. Cranks for a while, sputters, dies. Repeat a couple times, finally starts running rough, surging and loping for 10-15 seconds before it settles down and runs smoothly. Recently had all glow plugs replaced. Next cold start didn't show much improvement (not as bad as sometimes, but wasn't very cold either).
Surfing here and other forums, I see suggestions about letting glow plugs heat longer after WTS light goes out. Some suggest as long as 60 seconds. In the past, I have tried waiting a little while longer after light goes out, or turning key off/on and letting it cycle again. But I've never really timed how long I was waiting.
We're having a warm spell right now, so I can't do much testing. But yesterday morning was about 30. I timed the WTS light and it went out after 10 seconds. I waited another 20 seconds.. about 30 seconds total. Starting seemed a little better than usual, and there was about 1 second of roughness before it settled down.
I need to do more cold weather testing to be sure, but it does seem like it might be better to wait longer than I have been.
On the other end of the scale, I saw a comment that glow plug cycle is dependent on oil temp, and they don't come on at all if oil temp is above 40. Is this correct? If so, is there any good reason to wait to start in warm weather? I'm usually pretty diligent about waiting for the light regardless of weather, but the truck doesn't seem to object if I get impatient and start it sooner in warm weather. If the glow plugs aren't even on, why wait?
Should I just totally ignore the light, and wait for some interval (or not at all) based on a semi-educated guess about how much glow plug time might be necessary for the current temp?
My Saturn Ion Quad leaks bad when it rains. GM did something a couple of years ago but that didn't last.
View 2 RepliesI have two Camrys, A 1993 and 2001. Both cars have 4 cylinder and automatic transmissions. When ever it rains heavy and I am on a highway or fast moving road 45 mph or better. I hit a groove on the road that splashes water under my car. Then I get a rumble from underneath my car as I drive the rumble gets less and less as to water got wet seems to be drying out. Until I hit another groove and splash water under my car again. Both of my cars do this. Is it the cat getting wet (if not what is it then) and if so what can be done to correct this.
View 14 RepliesDo the wet boots make a clicking/rubbing type noise when turning on your car? It happen on my 2012 GTI, but only when it rains. It's really loud when I turn inside a parking garage. It's definitely not the joint itself, but rather is the rubber boot sticking to itself and releasing on the compressed side of the boot during the turn. No other car of mine has made this type of noise, even those with cheap Chinese aftermarket axles.
View 7 RepliesI have taken to mechanic- no codes, all reads well. have changed fuel filter, checked fuel pump, spark plugs, battery fairly new. after it rains, it cranks-engine shakes-wants to start but wont. Almost like gas or ignition will not kick in. if sunny, ok- This only happens after it rains..
View 3 RepliesMy 1999 passat leaks in heavy rain when sitting still. The water pools behind the drivers seat and in the trunk on the passenger side. I've had it in 2 body shops and they can't find the leak. There is no obvious signs of water anywhere else in the interior.
View 7 Replies93 k1500 350 has a water leak in the passenger footwell. Happens when it rains haven't had the truck long enough too test if a/c also causes leak. I checked the condensate drain line at the engine firewall. There was some gunk in it which I blew out but did not solve problem.
I'm able to reproduce leak by running a hose into the exterior cowl openings as if it were raining. As you can see in the pic the leak develops behind the blower motor. How to fix this leak??
The picture below shows underneath the passenger dash the two locations where I've seen leakage:
The test setup:
We bought our used 2009 Tiguan TDI 4motion AWD with electronic transmission and auto hold (whatever that is) when it was still under warranty. We are second owner of this car sold in the Dominican Republic, but it was build in Germany. Having done some research online, we know a bit more about the car, but it has a Spanish owner's manual so we are still learning......Love the car; fabulous milage and pickup especially in the mountains here. Perfect for this island of potholes and variable road conditions too.
Anyway, I didn't think it had a "car alarm" of any kind. Nothing on the key fob to turn it on or off and no "panic button". BUT it apparently has one! This one goes off when the car windows are down and it starts to rain! It's a cute little mildish squeak or chirp! We do have rain sensors for the wipers, so I assume that's related.
So i have a 2005 jetta gli that i just got a few months ago. it never came up just till recently with hurricane sandy but somewhere on the passengers side water is running into the vehicle from the a pillar past the glove box and making a pond out of the entire passengers side of the car. I've only found a few posts on here of it happening but with no good explanations of why or how to repair/fix it. all of the rubber looks good no debris or dirt is blocking anything from flowing.
View 8 RepliesHere is my problem....the cooling fan will not come on, even with the A/C turned on. The A/C fan works fine. I've changed the fan for a new one and replaced the relay, and checked all the wiring, but nothing has changed. I've read other threads that have kind of the same problem and they mentioned the coolant temperature sensor. I don't have a problem changing it, but don't know where it is located.
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