I just bought a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GLS, yesterday. 167k. Some faded paint on top areas, dead battery & in need of driver's front CV joint axle i believe, clicks when going around corners. Starts without hesitation, no smoke, no ticking, very clean and has only had 1 owner.
View 10 RepliesI have a '01 F250 with a frozen u-joint in the driver side front axle. My question is can I put it together without the axle and drive it?
View 2 RepliesLooking for info on changing out my left front cv joint axle.My boot is busted on the outter axle but iam going to change out the hold axle then my inner and outter are done the same time.Is there any body that attempted this on there own or a good thread that explains the steps to take on this job.My ride is a 2004 camry auto with the four bagger.
View 3 RepliesI noticed on my 03 excursion on both sides of the front axle there is a circle plastic o ring behind the u joint that is lose? Nothing is leaking and no signs of leak marks ever. Kind of looks lik a spacer ring of some sort because its at least 1/8th inch thick plastic. Also some time ago I posted about a whistling noise but never got a answer but its only there when im in 4wd there is a whistling noise from my right side and my locking hub when I turn it the hub seems lose and has a crunchy feeling to it. I just bought it a few weeks ago and now I am running into a whistling noise and noticed theres a piece of plastic that looks like a spacer....
View 14 RepliesMy 2002 Elantra Gls 1.8 got some weird sound coming from all 4 corners of the wheel... Recently I had replaced the front wheel bearing as the car goes very noisy when come into corners... But there still some knock... knock... sound after the car warming up especially from rear wheel.
I replaced all 4 absorbers 1 year ago as well as the tie-rods end... Still facing the same problems, the mechanic also don't know where to start...
What should I replace to settle the problem??? All the rubber bush??? Recently mileage on my car is 190000miles.
Just fixed the bad wheel bearing and a bad ball join on the passenger side. Now the only noise left is the clicks sound when I make sharp turn. Regular turns are normal. CV boots are good. What is wrong?
View 3 Replies'05 Santa Fe 2WD 3.5. Front end shimmy at about 70 mph. bad CV joint. I am replacing both left and right. Got everything out of the way to remove both CV's. Problem: The retaining ring at the end of the axle shaft will NOT release the axle. Pry bar not having any affect.
View 1 Replies'05 Santa Fe 2WD 3.5. Front end shimmy at about 70 mph. bad CV joint. I am replacing both left and right. Got everything out of the way to remove both CV's. Problem: The retaining ring at the end of the axle shaft will NOT release the axle. Pry bar not having any affect.
View 1 RepliesI have a right front lower ball joint very loose and wonder if that ball joint press fits into the lower "A frame". And how is it removed ? What size fork tool needed?
View 8 RepliesSo now that it is becoming colder out (40's in the morning 50's in afternoon) I have been experiencing signs that an inner joint on one of my axles is going bad. When driving while the vehicle is still cold, and even when it is just warmed up, I have bad vibrations while accelerating. I've ruled out other things and even had the car in the air and had it checked out at a stealership but of course they couldn't reproduce any of the vibrations. It was warm out the day of the appointment.
View 6 RepliesOK I need to replace just the boot, joint is fine. I have everything disassembled but cannot get the cv joint off the end of the axle. What am I missing here? All other CV Joints just come off with a few whacks of a hammer. Is there something special on these I'm missing?
View 14 RepliesI unstuck my front axles yesterday and while under the car spinning the front axles freely and enjoying my easy fix, I noticed a rubber seal (a thick squared edge round rubber seal) sitting loose and spinning freely. Its next to the axle joint, right before it disappears into the housing.
I'm guessing this is a dust seal of some kind. There is no fluid leaking out...
I'm wondering if I can just press fit this thing back into place or do I have to take the whole front wheel assembly (hub, bearing, axle, etc) to get the seal back into place.
I'm wondering if it broke off from a larger seal or if this is the whole thing? You can see how the seal isn't sitting quite straight. It actually just spins around.
why would my axle nut come loose? not once but twice. I had a funny road feel so I put it up and found the front right to be loose.... surprised and bewildered I pulled the cotter pin and retorqued the axle nut... Tightened right up. no more loose. Now a month later I get the same road wander and sure enough it is loose again.... I have already replaced the bearing about 15000 ago and there is no noise from the bearing. The assembly design pretty much locks the hub to the axle with no play in it at all.... Is it possible that I am pulling the axle apart through the outer knuckle?
View 3 RepliesJust to clarify, I've got a UK spec B5 wagon, manual, 1.8T (AEB, I believe) and it's a 2000. Last night when I was driving home, either my CV joint or axle on the driver (right) side blew out. Needless to say, I'm going to replace my axles or just the outer joints, but I've been shopping around and I'll find parts that will fit an A4 with a 5 speed and AEB but not a Passat, or parts that fit strictly AUG or ATW engine codes. How would I go about finding which axle will actually fit my car?
Here's a video so you can hear the noise : [URL] .....
Did ball joints this weekend and now have little axle fluid leaking out passenger side. was going to change axle fluid when i saw this so continued and when pulled the fill plug i would say 8oz or more came draining out. Did I mess up the seal inside the tube?
View 5 RepliesSo I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed. The driver side cv axle seal started leaking a few months ago and I finally got around to repairing it. Everything went relatively smooth until I got to replacing the seal...
The problem is, it will NOT fit over the cv axle. It just won't. When the seal is installed, not matter how much force I put on the axle it will not go in. Also, I even pulled the seal back out and tried to put it onto the axle out of the car and there is no way it is going on. This is the third seal (done the rounds to through the big name parts stores) and no go.
Now, some quick car back story, I generally do all of my own repairs, but over the winter in the midst of a family tragedy I had a friend (professional mechanic with a shop) do a bunch of work to the car. He replaced the boot and joint that goes into the transmission (he did not replace the entire cv axle assembly for some reason). What I am beginning to think is that he replaced it with the wrong part.
Now, what I am wondering, is this even possible? Is it possible that it could fit and work perfectly yet be wrong? This also appears to be what broke the original seal. The inner portion of the seal was totally blown out in a circle, but perfectly, like it was crushed or cut out, and I am wondering if this happened due to having extreme force applied to it (possibly when he reinstalled it?)
That, or is it just extremely difficult / next to impossible to get these seals on? Even with both parts out of the car, stretching and pushing down on the seal (oiled it up as well to see if that would work) with all my might yields no results.
The leak was not there for the first month or so that I got the car back and then showed up. I have put about 5k miles on the car since I got it back. With Monday quickly approaching, I am wondering if I should just blow the crap out of my budget and pick up a new cv axle? I could at least have them pull one and let me see if the seal fits, I suppose.
Picture if you will...Removed tire, caliper and rotor. Removed hub, and knuckle containing the stub shaft/spindle with it's yoke for the U joint. You are now looking at the end of the axle tube, with the axle shaft in it, one end connected to the differential carrier, the other end has the yoke for the U joint on it. Just inboard of the yoke, is a seal. Apparently it's called a "dust seal" is there a bearing behind this, or is the first bearing all the way in at the differential? When I was doing my brakes, I noticed the passenger side u-joint is shot, and the axle wiggles around in the dust seal. Figured I'd replace the seal while I was doing the U joint. Also, how do I get the axle shaft out? Just pull, or do I have to remove a C clip from the inboard end? What is the right National part number for the seal? I have a 6/2000 Excursion.
View 2 RepliesI have recently replaced the clutch, clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, Strut tower mounts and brakes on my 2002 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed. Everything is working properly but now I have a transmission fluid leak. I can not locate the exact location. It appears that it is dripping down onto the passenger side half axle where it connects at the transmission.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 b5.5 passat sedan i recently picked up for cheap. The car was on cut springs and blown struts. I just installed JOM blue Line coilovers on it to solve the suspension problem. While i was doing this i realized both the cv boots were torn and needed replacing. I replaced the axles. The passat is a 1.8t with tip tronic trans. After i did the axles when i put the car in drive and let it idle i get a fairly noticeable vibration through out the car. It does not happen while driving or while in neutral. This did not happen before i did the axles. It doesnt make much sense to me?
View 18 Replies2001 F150 SCAB with 74,000 miles. There seems to be a whistling noise coming from the front axle. It is definately a rolling noise. I can shift into neutral and put it in 4H and still have the noise. Brakes are good, tires are fair... I just rotated my tires (criss-crossed front to back) also sprayed all of my boots with silicone spray. Still has a whistling metal to metal bearing sound. When I have the front jacked up and spin the wheels, there seems to be a decent drag turning by hand. I don't remember having much of a drag before.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 f150 4x4 with the 4.6 Triton motor, the front axle is not pulling in when I switch the selector on the dash, I know the transfer case is switching so that part is ok. I know there are 2 solenoids on the fire wall, my question is which one is which ? every store I call says one has the nub at 9 o' clock and one at 6 o' clock which one of these does the front axle, don't want to order the wrong one ? I checked the vacuum and the blue line going to the axle always has vacuum and as I read the diagram the blue line is 2 wd and the red line is 4 wd so is the 2wd solenoid stuck and preventing the 4wd one from pulling in or is the 4wd one bad ?
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