My MIL is on!!!! I went to Autozone, they told me the error code is P0121. The car is running funny, with uneven idle, and bucking/not shifting.
View 6 Replies2001 1.5L 5-speed Accent
I did a search on this problem and found several people posted the same P0121 code. Strangely many people wrote that replacing TPS did NOT fix it. The code came back in 30 miles or so. Most of them didn't follow up what finally fixed it and only 2 people did by saying they got the code cleared by fixing/replacing:
1. Leak in the intake manifold, bad plug wires, etc.
2. New Head & ECM.
Is there any known fix for the P0121 on Accent 1.5L other than above?
I have a 2002 Accent 1.6L 72K miles, idle surging between 1500 - 2500 rpm after stopping from 50 mph, (with Code P0121) replaced TPS - No Luck . I reset the DTS error codes, ran it with a new TPS and same exact problem, Code P0121 came back, and surging continued, this happens when I decelerate from high speed- 50 mph or so and it will not go to normal idle, surges between 1500 and 2500 rpm when in park.
If I give the throttle pedal a good kick, the problem goes away, and it idles fine, nice and smooth and at normal rpm, the DTS code will clear, and stays cleared, mil light goes out. It almost seems like something is sticking, I know its not the throttle itself because when I do a live data, the TPS shows "0", if I manually push the throttle shaft closed at the throttle body, it is fully seated shut, so I know its not a sticking cable or anything. Can a sticking MAF sensor cause this? Maybe what I'll try tomorrow is rapping the throttle body with a rubber mallet while its surging, maybe something is not returning to its normal position in there.
I just had a ton of maintenance done on my 2003 Elantra. Spark plugs & wires, timing belt, drive belts, water pump, replaced coolant and replaced the transmission fluid. The spark plugs are NGK platinum as recommended in my handbook. As soon as the mechanic started the car after the tuneup, the engine light came on with a cam shaft sensor code. He said it went off on its own.
The engine light came back on when I started the car. There's also a major loss of power after coming to a stop. I have to floor it to get it to go anywhere above 20 mph after a stop.
The mechanic said that when he replaced my water pump the liquid splashed all over everything and he thinks he might have gotten something wet that shouldn't have gotten wet and that all will be fine after it dries.
I am currently about 1700 miles into what is a, planned, 11,000 mile road trip up to Alaska and back to SC. The first three days of driving everything was fine and I was getting 33 MPG. Today my MPG dropped down to 28 and in the evening my check engine light came on. The folks at PepBoys told me it was P0139 which I understand has to do with oxygen sensors and would affect my vehicle gas consumption.
If I drive about 21 hrs (Denver to Portland OR) to get to a place where I have a trusted mechanic and more free time, will it be bad for the car/engine?
Driving: Elantra GLS, 2003. Around 53k miles on it. Just replaced the tires last week as well as all belts (including timing). A few years ago I recall a similar error and my mechanic had me take the car to a muffler shop to cut something out and reweld it. yeah, I have forgotten the details.
I have a 2005 hyundia elantra, i just recently noticed mainly while I was driving on the freeway or at higher speeds when I let my foot off the pedal my vehicle would slightly jerk and quickly decrease speed for a second, I then noticed my engine light was on. I stopped at a free computer test auto shop (o' reiley's ) and the test stated trouble code p1505 code definition - idle charge actuator signal - low of coil 1.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Elantra GLS. I am intermittently Check Engine light and error code is P0113 - Air Intake sensor issue. I can't locate where the sensor is. I don't see any wire coming of the tubing that connects the air filter to the engine.
View 18 Replieswould a tps sensor be the reason? Is the speedometer also hopping?
View 3 RepliesI got an 2009 toyota prius I was driving home one day and car shut off and check engine light came on after 10 mins of the car being off I try to turn it on, it started with the check engine light still on main battery light came off, I ran to AutoZone and got my car scan for codes and P0121 was my code tps my car has 120k miles what should I do clean the throttle body? Replace the sensor? How would I test the sensor if it's bad?
View 4 RepliesSo I replaced my battery about 20k miles ago, so I know that's fine. I always throw a P0420, but I'm told that's fine too. So I was driving, and I lose power suddenly. The red triangle comes on, and I plug my scangauge II in, which tells me it's P0121, or the throttle body sensor. I reset the codes to make it home - my battery DID charge just fine on the way home, making it up to a 63.5 state of charge. Now when I start it, and press the gas, it tends to rev up, rev down, and repeat. I haven't gotten the red triangle again yet but I also haven't driven it since then.
View 2 RepliesSo of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
My sister was driving her 01 Prius and the engine shut off and all the dash lights came on. I was worried it was the hybrid battery since it is still original. I started the car and it started fine, drove home without any issues. Went to the store, everything seems normal. Read the codes and found P0121 and P3190, I just have a basic reader so I don't have any sub-codes or anything like that.
View 8 RepliesWhat that means? The check engine light is NOT on but I looked for a code because my truck is idling rough, and when driving, when the overdrive kicks in, it vibrates really bad. As if a bad U-joint on your drive shaft. The truck has been in a field for about 5 months broke down so any clue? Haynes manual says nothing about P1000.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2001 Elantra GLS. The tranny shifts smooth. At around 40mph, it wants to shift into what I guess is overdrive. At that speed it is like it can't figure out where it wants to be and will down and upshift. Aside from that the tranny has no other problems.
View 5 Replies2001 vw cabrio 2.0 .. The car starts and stalls BUT only if you give it gas. I replaced the throttle body and did the throttle body alignment using vas-pc , no problems at idle but as soon as i give i gas it dies, and it seems to die quicker at higher temperatures. When it dies i get codes P0121 and P1570 i clear the code , do the alignment , and same thing happens over again. I also replaced distributor , crank sensor, maf sensor , spark plugs, wires , rotor, tried different pcm reprogrammed, no vacuum leaks, the only thing i can think of now is the ecm relay? but its missing so is it using the fuel pump relay ?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Ford Ranger with the 3.0L v6. The check engine light came on and the code it is blowing is a P0171. It runs rough at idle or when I let off the accelerator and "fine" at speed.
The code told me to check/clean the MAF which I have done. Next on the list that I saw was the PCV valve. I disconnected the electrical to it and then disconnected the hose. Some oil poured out of it... not a lot but some... The valve still seems free, it clicks when I rotate/shake it and I can blow through it (I know, highly scientific). I can replace this (if I can find it, Napa and Advanced Auto don't have a part that looks like it...) but I'm wondering what else could be wrong.
My '02 Elantra would have a hard time starting up in the winter right after I filled the gas to full. Usually I would have to give it some gas to startup. After that, it didn't have problems starting up until I filled it again. This was only in the winter.
About a month and a half ago, it became really slow to accelerate. Since the O2 sensor light had been on constantly for a long time I never bothered to check it. Soon the car became really slow to accelerate and would lunge forward in spurts. The error codes I got were P0133 and the O2 sensor. I replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires, and this seemed to do the trick. The check engine light went away, the car sped up nice and quick. Also at that time, I put in some fuel injector cleaner.
The a couple weeks ago, P0133 and P0420 came back. It seems like the car is using up more gas than it should. There is a very minimal sluggish response when I push the gas. I have a spare ignition coil, but trying to find what it could be more specifically before I swap out more parts willy nilly.
My car is a 2002 Hyundai Elantra with an automatic transmission. It was bought with about 79k miles on it and currently has about 94k miles. Last week I began experiencing rough shifting between gears. My CEL had been on for a few months but I wasn't having any performance problems so I ignored it. When I started having shifting problems I went to autozone to have the codes scanned. All that came up was P0441. I cleaned the purge valve and cleared the code. The CEL stayed off.
I continued driving and having shifting problems. The car slipped out of gear when it wanted to upshift. The engine revs until I release the gas. Once the rpms drop low enough the next gear would engage. This seemed to happen for every gear shift except 1-2. For my first few trips no CEL.
Finally, yesterday on my way to work I got a CEL, and it was intermittent, similar to other issues I had read about. However, the more I drove the car, the worse this problem got. It would not stay in gear while cruising down the road. I tried changing gears manually, revving the engine up and letting it drop to idle, but nothing would work. Luckily the car got me to work but it was a real jerky ride. Towards the end it didn't even want to take off from a stop. And it wasn't in third, the engine just wasn't engaging the transmission. It's like the car was in neutral. But moving the gear shifter didn't seem to work.
The car did not make it home, however. When I started it after work, it went fine for about 2 blocks and then started slipping. Within a quarter mile I couldn't even go in first. Turning off the car and waiting a few minutes, then going again would gain me some distance, but the car would start slipping again almost right away. I was able to turn around and park the car in my work's parking lot.
The problem is I have no way to pull the DTC's now because the car can't make it very far. If it's something simple like the input/output speed sensors, I'll replace those in the parking lot. I'm a DIYer and hate paying others for what I can do myself, but I may need to bite the bullet on this one.
I bought my 2005 automatic 4 speed Elantra knowing of this problem and feeling good about being able to track it down. how ever This did not stand to be the case. Start up cold shifts through every gear smooth as silk with know slippage or harsh shifts. roughly 10 to 15 mins after the car reaches operating temp on the gauge it begins to slam into 3rd gear only. Most of the time it is a double slam. Like bam bam real fast but indeed does shift into the 3rd gear then into over drive smoothly. I can duplicate it any time i desire to by merely pulling it back into 2nd gear and manually pushing the shifter back up to 3rd. it will slam every time with out fail. The man i bought it from told me he had this trouble and changed the transmission out with a 500.00 used one and did the exact same thing...
So I felt must be electrical wiring or TCM bad but upon examination i found no codes present to date. he threw parts at it and replaced both input and output sensors based off some thing he read on the net. also he said he replaced the TPS with a TPS from a wrecked car, still same harsh shift. he however could not remember how the fluid looked upon changing it and the filter as he also did that, nor can he remember what fluid type he used. I know shot in the dark right??? What is the actually fix such a hard slam when shifting into 3rd.
My car literally started doing this thing where it sounds like a vibration or humm when putting my Elantra into reverse.
View 2 RepliesI have read the common problems and went ahead and replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, TPS. Also had a complete tranny flush done. The shifting problem persists, when I drive around 25-40 mph, the car will constantly upshift or downshift on its own even. Sorta like I get to 30 mph and it suddenly decides to downshift, like it has become ultra sensitive to minor increases in torgue(?) or can't decide if it wants to be in 3rd or 4th gear. Did check with Jiffy Lube to make sure they replaced it with SP3 fluid and they did. What else this might be? Check engine light comes on now and then and currently is off.
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