Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Engine Whirring At Higher Speeds / Vibration When Stopped And Braking
Nov 16, 2011
I have two simultaneous problems with my 2005 Elantra (automatic transmission). I don't know if the problems are related or not, or if they are alarming or not.
Background on the car: timing belt and water pump replaced in 2010; four tires new in 2010; oil changes every 5000 km.
The first is that my engine is making this 'whirring' sound when I approach 80km/hr. It's not high-pitched, but more of a droning noise. Having read around the forums, I see that Elantras commonly make funny engine noise, but this is fairly new to my car (145,000 kms) and definitely not there at all when idling or at low, city-street speeds.
Additionally, I have a weird vibrating noise coming from the front left of the car only when I am dead stopped and the brakes are fully depressed. It doesn't make this sound in park, and I don't hear it until the car has come to a complete stop; there is no odd noise while slowing down.
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Recently when I was on a longer distance drive (multiple hours) my car was producing an unusual vibration. It seemed to go away after some time. At the end of my drive I was turning left around a bend and there was knocking sound. One of the boots on the cv joint has been leaking grease so I went ahead and replaced both cv axels.
The knocking is still there. Here are the symptoms:
- Knocking sound when turning left when the accelerator is down.
- Knocking sound is somewhat intermittent when turning, not always continuous.
- The vibration is not always there and is only there at higher speeds, and is made worse when accelerating.
- All of this appears to get worse the longer the car is driven (heat?).
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2003 7.3 Excursion, 130k, stock suspension with newer bushings, etc.
Vibration when braking at higher speeds - not felt as pulses through brake pedal or shimmy through steering wheel - rather, a "body" vibration. Stops as soon as the TC unlocks. Being a diesel I can't tap the brake to allow it to unlock like on the gasser 4R100's - its locked until it shifts down into 3rd. Turning off OD puts it into 3rd but locks TC (no way to "single out" TC). Only felt when braking in OD (though I haven't tried running up to highway speeds with OD off/trans in 3rd) - braking is completely smooth at all other times/gears/speeds and at all braking force (light, mod, heavy).
Front and rear pads are good with even wear and sufficient material, lugs evenly torqued, tires good/balanced, no sign of a stuck caliper or rotor warping, MM manual hubs unlocked. No driveshaft carrier on the Ex's, just a regular two joint shaft with recent Neapco Gold u-joints, no slip yoke play. Trans filter replaced 4k miles ago, 6 +/- qts DexIII/Merc exchanged when I did the filter, fluid smelt and looked fine. Transfer case fluid changed about 5k miles ago. Factory LSD rear diff not serviced recently but fluid suctioned from fill hole looks acceptable.
I'm afraid that something is going on with torque converter/shudder but I don't get any shudder or slip under acceleration or at any other time and gear shifts are smooth. I know that the 4R100's can be sketchy, especially with 130k, but want to get suggestions before digging into it. I've also got a very slow hydroboost leak/weep but the power steering fluid is properly filled. Steering is smooth and proper, brake pedal movement is normal so I assume there is no air in the lines.
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My 2006 3.6 awd has developed a propensity to roughly downshift when braking at higher speeds particularly on inclines. The VW shop cannot replicate the problem, but a tech is driving the car for a few days. What might be the cause of this?
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I recently replaced the water pump, timing belt and all other belts in my 2005 Elantra. The car runs great, but there is a whirring/whining noise at idle when I have the car in park and in drive when I'm stopped at a light. You do not hear the noise when I accelerate and you do not hear the noise at any speed above idle.
At idle the whirring/whining noise can be heard whether the A/C is on or off. I have done some research and some causes for a noise like that have been a bad power steering pump, alternator, or pulleys.
The Elantra has 106,300 miles and gives me 26 MPG. I love this car. It has been the most dependable car I have ever owned. I plan to maintain it and hopefully last me for another 100,000 miles.
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I change my own pads as a good lifetime warranty with free replacement from Autozone is great!
But with the Tribeca... I changed the front rotors just like all my other cars over the years.. and now there is pretty severe pulsation when trying to brake... I've checked the rotors and pad replacement twice now and all looks perfect.
I searched this pulsation issue and saw on a Jaquar site that you can ruin the ABS on some cars when you don't drain excess fluid as you push the piston back to install then new thicker pads..
Is this an issue for B9? I don't see it anywhere... I'm ready to bring it in the shop.. the pulsation ONLY happens when braking and gets more severe when stopping from progressively higher speeds...
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I have noticed recently that I seem to be getting less regen braking force than I used to. Particularly noticeable at higher speeds at over 45MPH or 70 KMPH. The regen seems to have very little effect now until I have slowed down. I seem to have to use much more brake than I remember recently. And by the way the battery in not nearly fully charged....Regen does come on but seems to have very little slowing power....
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Ok so we all know it's usually warped rotors or possibly a caliber problem. But let's say u have new of both. And still I'm getting a wobble, not only when I brake at higher speeds, but when I'm on certain roads. Only certain roads. Say about 20% of other roads while driving I get a slight wobble. Not too bad, but a very annoying wobble. I bought this CTS at 35k and now has 45k on it. And again I bought this car for my long commute and a smooth drive. Which I'm not getting. I can't take it anymore! I've got to figure this out. Getting a wobble in the steering while on super smooth roads. And I know it's the car because I have a Chevy Cavalier and a Dodge truck in the family that don't wobble on the same roads.
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My husband and I noticed that my Hyundai Elantra (2007) sounded rough when running over 60mph. The car has 61,000 miles on it and is due for an oil change, a radiator flush, and a fuel filter replacement. My manual says that the platinum coated (versus iridium coated) spark plugs would need to be replaced at 60K miles. I was told that the car would run rough at lower speeds if it was the spark plugs.
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Today was the first day I drove my Elantra on the interstate with the sunroof open. When I was cruising at 65-70mph, I kept hearing a noise that I thought was coming from another car. It sort of sounded like a popping or thumping noise. After a few minutes, I reached my hand up and noticed the sound was coming from the metal bar that rises up a little at the front of the opening when the glass slides back. The wind was vibrating it and making it flap in the wind.
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Noticing excessive vibration when braking after 50-60 mph speeds.
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My wife has an Acura, and when braking at higher speeds, she is getting a really bad "vibration". I am assuming the rotors are warped. We had both axles (rotors/pads) done last year (about 40k ago) at Midas. After they did them, we had to take the car back about 3 times for squeaky pads, and I swear a slight vibration, but they didn't fix them. Anyway, even though they offer "lifetime pads," I refuse to go back there.
So, her pads now started squeaking again. We were dealing with the warped rotors until we had some extra money and time to take it in. At this point, I am wondering where I should take it. I have no clue if the pads are good, and I'm guessing the rotors just need to be turned since they were just put on last brake job.
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I recently purchased the rims from another member here on Club Lexus.
Ever since installation, I have been experiencing a vibration at highway speeds and while braking. The wheels are correctly balanced.
My technician has told me that I need to buy a hub ring/spacer (not too sure what that is) but nonetheless, a grommet of such that fits between the backside of the rim and the frontside of the hub. I'm not too sure where to begin from there or what to even look for.
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I have a 2007 dodge Dakota with 112K miles. At 105K I had the front brake rotors and pads replaced. The rear brakes were fine. There was a problem with one of the rotors and I returned a week or two later and one, which was warped, was replaced. Ever since that second visit I have had an intermittent vibration from the vehicle. When I brake the whole truck vibrates. And by vibrating, I mean some pretty heavy shaking. It is not the steering wheel vibrating. I took this back to the mechanic where they were unable to find any issues with the brakes. Also, we could not (of course) re-create the issue while it was in the shop. I have not been able to find the pattern. It happens when I am braking at high speeds, but not every time. It also happens at lower speed, but again, not every time.
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I replaced my tires yesterday with Bridgestone Turanza ER33 (245/45/19).
After replacing the tires, there is is an extreme vibration in the front end of the car when braking at highway speeds (60+ mph). Braking at sub 50mph speeds is completely normal. No lights, no vibration while driving. What could be the reason?
Also while removing the lug nut locks, the locks key broke apart (the black piece came out of the key). After like 45mins of trying, finally we got the locks out. I threw them away.
I searched online for regular lug nuts, but couldn't find any beside ebay. The local dealer says I need to wait for 3 weeks to get them from Japan! Where can I get a set of 4 regular lug nuts online?
I'm now running on 4 lug nuts on each wheel. Could this cause a problem? Could the vibration be caused by not having a 5th lug nut in place?
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I have a 2009 Chevy Malibu that gives through rotors every 6 months. I have replaced them 3 times now in 102,000 miles and had them turned multiple times. What happens is about 6,000 miles after I put new rotors on they warp and I get a violent vibration when braking at high speeds. I have been to 3 different dealerships and none of them can figure out why they continue to warp.
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I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX (4 cyl) with 102k miles. I bought it brand new and kept it completely in shape with regular service. For the past few months I start getting front end vibration at braking, mostly when slowing from high speeds and without any repair this vibration has now became common at all speed.... my diagnosis - I need to replace to turn disk/rotors....
While I have not remedy the rotor issue yet, I started getting this new vibration at 60 to 80 mph.... Below and above this range of speed i have no vibrations - the car will drive fine. This type of vibration in my experience for front wheel drives is mostly due to balancing or bad tires. so i took the easy way ..... and as i already needed tires well i dished out the dough and replaced all four with Michelin Primacy hoping that it will resolve the speed related vibration.... Well it did not?
I continue to drive as-is without addressing the real problem - coz I'm not sure what is causing the vibration.... now new additional vibration started on acceleration; any time I hit the gas pedal (normal acceleration or kick-down) I get vibration very similar to when a stick shift's gearbox required replacement/repair of the worn out pressure plate's (fingers/springs gets bent or weak) or the thrust bearing needs replacements/repair/grease packing. I'm from the old school stickshift transmission, my knowledge in automatic is very little - I have repaired Acura's automatic transmission before but I don't think repairing once will make me an expert in automatic.
So to summarize my issues or current state:
Issue# 1 front end vibration on braking
Issue# 2 front end vibration 60 to 80 mph speed only
Issue# 3 front end vibration on acceleration at all speed
The list above is in sequential order as I have experienced.
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It has 158,000 miles on it and you can feel the engine vibration through the steering wheel, seats, and floorboard, and especially through the gas and brake pedals! Under the hood the engine shakes in place and very badly . it stops at about 1500 rpm and got worse when I installed a intake...
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Not sure it is a problem. In fact i don't think it is, but I noticed it the other day when I felt a slight jerkiness when reversing.
The ECO quickly blinks whenever I hold the break down while not moving, but when I let off the break it doesn't flash. Normal?
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My 2003 Ford F250 V10 seems to have a vibration, sometimes at all speeds and sometimes at freeway speeds. I replaced front hub assemblies and ball joints and rear calipers last year. When braking i have a vibration in rear as well, which I think is from uneven rotor but can it be causing my vibration? Also sometimes I can smell hot brakes from the rear.
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I've got a 2004 Elantra, 4 Door Sedan. My wife drove it yesterday and parked it. She later attempted to start it, and it won't start. When she turns the key, the car makes whirring sound like it's about to start up and gets to the point just to where it should turn over, but never does. Lights come on, etc, so it appears it's not a battery issue. We're not super mechanically inclined, but sometimes things like this can be easy fixes.
On another quick note: her car had it's engine light come on a few weeks ago. Took it to the car parts store and read it as a catalytic convertor issue. It went away after she refilled up on gas, so we figured maybe it was some bad gas.
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