2002 Elantra engine is revving up to 3000 rpms when in neutral or park. I changed the Throttle Position sensor and it went right back to revving up. Code read P0121. What might be causing this? Seems like I get one thing fixed and then another code shows up..
View 2 RepliesMy car is a 2001 honda accord v6. It sat for 3 winter months. When I go to turn it on in the morning, the car will rev while idling. Jumping between 1000 and 3000 rpms. Why this might be happening?
View 3 RepliesI own a Ford Ranger 2003, 5spd 6 cyl. My problem is when I'm driving and the engine is revving above 3000 rom's. It begins to sputter and buck as if the engine is running out of gas. It only lasts a few seconds. It ends as quickly as it starts. It does not occur each time when driving above 3000 rpms. My mechanic took the truck for a test ride and of course he could not find anything wrong. His advise was to wait until it got worse. I would rather solve the problem now. It is difficult and dangerous when trying to pass vehicles on the road.
View 2 RepliesThe car is an '05 elantra, 97,000 miles, auto., car is new to me. First time on the freeway today, 30 miles @75-85 mph, at the end of the off ramp I could feel it surging, shift to neutral rpm's went to 1500, hoss the gas and back to normal. On the return trip off ramp, went to neutral, jab the gas, everything OK. I'm going to clean the throttle blade, check things, etc.
View 3 RepliesThe title says it all. I have no CEL.
View 4 RepliesDriving car auto slips into neutral, car keeps revving until stopped lever put in neutral then into gear drive off again. Thats mothers version of what happens. This happens once a week for last six..
View 2 RepliesI've got an automatic transmission 2002 elantra 2.0 that I purchased in 2009. About a year after owning it a weird problem developed that I've just sort of lived with since. Between 25-40 mph my RPMs occasionally "bounce" persistently by an amount between 500 (mild) and about 1000 (severe). There's a bit of fluctuation insofar as what RPMs/speeds it happens at depending on outside temperature and how warm the engine is (higher temps correlate with this issue happening at higher RPMs and a more pronounced fluctuation), but it's a consistent issue every time I drive. It *seems* like my car is always trying to push down the revs, hits a certain low point depending on the gear/speed, then jumps up just a bit only to edge back down. Lather, rinse, repeat. It's not simply a display problem as I can feel and hear the engine revs changing.
No fluctuations at idle. Above 3000 RPMs it's ALWAYS smooth sailing. When I'm actively accelerating there's never a problem, even if my acceleration stays in the revolution problem range. The car is never in danger of dying, but if the cruise is engaged (ESPECIALLY in the 25-30 MPH range at operating temp) the car shudders uphill - I assume this is because the RPMs dip a bit too low for the gear the car is in. If I press the throttle the car responds normally. This bouncing RPM issue itself NEVER causes the car to shift gears in response, and if it's happening and the car DOES shift everything works fine until it goes back to trying to maintain RPMs in the problem range. When it happens I usually just increase speed by 5MPH and it goes away, though if the car is warm and the speed limit doesn't allow me to go fast enough to get out of the problem range it just does the same thing at the slightly higher RPMs.
When the problem started my car threw an OBD code - I didn't read it myself and brought the car to a random service shop who SAID they changed the throttle position sensor, and the code was gone, but a few days later it was doing the same thing without throwing a code. I tried changing the fuel pump thinking it was a fuel delivery problem, but that didn't solve anything. I put seafoam in the fuel system monthly so I'm fairly certain that fuel system gunk isn't an issue. The symptoms haven't changed AT ALL during the 6+ years this has been happening.
The kicker is that a few years ago I found a SUPERB mechanic - the first one I've ever actually trusted to be not only competent but also honest. Described the problem and even demonstrated it to him. When I brought in my car to have the struts and mounts replaced he spent two days trying to figure out what was causing the RPM issue too... and couldn't nail it down.
Possibly related: after starting the car - regardless of how long it's been running - there's a brief delay between pressing the gas pedal and the engine responding. Delay seems *slightly* longer the colder it is outside, but it's never more than a second and a half. No further delays unless I shut the engine off and turn it on again. Replacing the fuel pump didn't affect this matter whatsoever.
I recently purchased a 2013 elantra.
I have noticed that there is engine vibration and noise felt in car and pedal when accelerating at around 2500-3000 rpm's before it shifts. Is this normal behavior? It just does not seem as smooth as it should be. I have only put about 600 miles on the car.
It has been very cold, but it does not go away after warming up.
What could cause this? I have 100k and I only notice this if in park or neutral at 1500rpms. It goes away before and after and it seems to drive very smoothly. I had a bad alternator and I just replaced it but the "new" one is making a high pitching ringing so I'm having the shop change that out for a new oem. Any chance it's the alternator or could this be something else. I have sea foamed the throttle body recently and cleaned the maf recently and changed the air filter. I didn't do plugs but they are do at 120k
View 7 RepliesMy engine temp gets too hot when revving the engine but cools down at idle. The top rad hose is hot and the bottom rad hose is cool. I'm suspecting a stuck thermostat?
View 5 RepliesAt the beginning December I put my brand new winter tires (general altimax arctics) on the factory steelies and put them on the car gearing up for the snow. Not to long after the install I notice that I was getting a very strong engine vibration starting at 3,000 rpms and it stopped around 3,100 rpms no matter what gear I was in. At first I though it maybe just the cold affecting the engine. Well...
Last week I put my summer rims and tires back on for the 1,600 mile trip to MO and back, and like magic, no more heavy vibrations. Smooth acceleration throughout the normal driving rpm range. I just changed the oil and tranny fluids Tuesday after we got back and with the warmer weather the car is running smooth as silk. Still an awesome car with awesome mileage and couldn't be happier.
I have a 2001 accent with a 1.6 .... It won't rev over 3000rpm's. It does not have any codes being set. If I unplug the IAC it will rev up just like normal. I tried replacing the IAC, TPS, and swapped ECM and nothing has changed it. I tested continuity of the IAC circuit to ECM and it tests good. Tested ground circuit and it tests good. Have correct voltage at sensor. Not sure what else to look at.
View 21 Replies2006 Hyundai Elantra. RPM's go flying everytime it's fired up. RPM's will drop once it's put into gear, reverse or drive and runs just fine afterwards. If it's not affecting how it drives should we just let it be? Is there anything to be concerned about?
View 2 Replies1614 - Powertrain Control Module (PCM) harness is open or shorted - Faulty Electronic Throttle System (ETS) unit - Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
1191 - Electronic Throttle System Limp Home Valve On
Car is a 2004 santafe 3.5l automatic. symptoms are phantom revving up to 3-4k in park without me doing anything, sometimes car is hard to start, idle is very erratic/doesn't want to stay running. other times it starts and drives perfectly. from what i can gather this is some sort of malfunction in the electronic throttle system, and from searching people say "inspect ETS system", but i'm not sure what this involves. i unplugged every sensor i can locate in relation to the throttle system, cleaned them with electronic spray cleaner and put some di-electric grease. reset the ecu through battery disconnect, and problem came right back. local shop pulled the codes and said it'll be about 1200 for a new throttle body, and that the dealer has to reset it say what.
is there anything i can do with this sans bringing it to the dealer? i'm not even sure it would make it that far, driving home from the local shop it was in limp mode and i could only drive about 30 mph, and barely made it up hills. probbaly take me three hours to drive to the nearest dealer lol.
i replaced the accelerator pedal sensor about a year ago, and it also threw a code for throttle position sensor about a year ago also.
I have a 2012 Elantra with about 90,000 km. Everything was running smoothly until this week I ran into quite a few problems.
First of all, my car shakes when in park or neutral. I think this may have something to do with the idle being out of sync, but honestly I don't know enough to judge it.
Second of all, my engine was replaced twice by the manufacturer about 7-8 months ago. Now, all of a sudden, it is shaking like crazy! I'll open up the hood while the car is on and the engine looks like it wants to jump out at me.
Third of all, my window just started making a grinding noise when I bring it up and down. There's a section of the window, in the middle, where it doesn't make a noise, but for the rest of it it sounds like everything is scratching. I presume that this may be the power window and that I'll have to get this replaced.
I had my Honda Odyssey transmission replaced 2 years ago. The past few months, in the first mile that I drive the car on streets in our neighborhood, the car goes into high RPMs (about 3000) before it seems to drop into gear. It does this 2 or 3 times then works fine after that. The "Check engine" light is now on all the time. Sometimes, the car does one other weird thing--the high RPMs end with the drive/D4 light flashing on and off like a blinker (even if I change gears to D3. When this happens, if I turn the ignition off it comes back on and seems to function fine. I have had it back to the shop that did the work about 4-5 times to get it right. I like the guys but each time they return it to me, the problem remains. I took a 2000 mile trip with it and with the exception of this persistent problem, the van worked fine.
View 2 RepliesNew iac and now runs at 3000, replaced iac, input shft speed sensor,and #3 fuel inlector because of codes. Have factory shop manual. Old iac had higher than factory ohm resistance by 5 ohms on each test of terminals 1 and 2 and then on 2 and 3. new iac [wells] is 4 ohms higher on both tests . Old iac ran at 1200 rpm new at 3000 rpm. tps is smooth on resistance test so assume it is ok. Blocked off all hoses to intake manifold to check for open pcv or evap. valve but still the same. 2001 elantra gls is giving me a fit. soft reset of ecm did nothing. Pulling pigtail on iac will drop rpm's to about 1100 but runs rough.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2007 Elantra with 138,000 miles. I never had any slipping or jerking or reverse issues in the past. I got into the car put it in reverse just fine then put it in drive and nothing happened, I put it in park and the car kept rolling like in neutral and started making a loud grinding noise. When I put the transmission in any other gear the noise stops but will not move and acts as if in neutral.
View 2 RepliesI have an Elantra 2012 sedan GL and last year i tried installing HID's. It worked for a whole but then it stopped after. I learned that it wasn't getting enough power so then yesterday I bought a wiring kit to be able to wire my HID to tap to the battery to get more power. Everything was fine till I got to work but when I had to leave work., there was an issue. Whenever i switch the gear from park to drive or reverse or neutral. My car seems to jerk. And when I'm driving and it changes gears, it also jerks. Kind of the same thing how if your driving a manual car and you change gears wrong. This happens when my lights are off. But when i turn them on it then stops. And when i turn it back of it doesn't do it anymore.
View 5 RepliesMy car has been revving up to around 2-3k rpm upon startup... the mechanic says it's a faulty idle air control valve. He tried to clean it but to no avail--the car still revs up occasionally.
I can't find the IAC valce in the Hayne's Manual. Might it be called something else? The idle speed control actuator, perhaps? Is this is job for an industrious do-it-yourself?
2001 Elantra shifts to overdrive only after running 3000 rpm for a mile. Then at other times it shifts to overdrive ok. fluid is ok Sometimes putting the shifter into neutral with the car rolling and putting it back into drive will get it to upshift.
View 1 Replies