Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Each Gear Catches On Something And Stalls After MTX Replaced
Aug 7, 2016
I replaced the MTX transmission, and while cleaning off the rotors of oil, I let the one side spin while in first gear. I put the wheels back on and started to back out of the driveway. It seemed as if I was rolling into something as it wanted to stop moving backwards. I then put the front of the car back on jackstands and tried to move through the gears. While in 1st or reverse, the car begins to engage and then acts as if it is grabbing gears and will stall. The car does not want to move. I then went outside with the car off and tried to spin the wheels in neutral. One wheel spins one way, the other spins another. I tried to put the car in reverse and it starts to move the tires, then catches on something and stalls. Then, the shifter is stuck in reverse and I have to work to get it out.
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Passat B6, 2009 TDI CR, 140 bhp, DSG.
Having an issue that's bugging me. all cold starts are fine. However, if I drive a short distance then try to restart the engine cranks, sounds like it catches but stalls.
It takes 2-4 retries to get it going, i'm not releasing the key too early as this happens even when I hold the key in.
I've not been able to get a VAG-COM on it yet but would like to know whether this is likely to be something simple or, if it's time to sell the car?
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Sometimes while cruising at moderate to highway speed I'll go full throttle (to pass, merge, etc.), but the car just revs for about three seconds then catches a gear. It has happened in D and S mode. I've taken it in to the dealer and they checked for any codes, but there weren't any.
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I have a 07 Elantra with 68,000 miles. I am having a cold start issue. When the car sits overnight and I attempt to start/place the car into gear (auto), the car will stall. This occurs whether the car is placed in forward/reverse and with the a/c on/off. The vehicle will start fine the rest of the day with no issues.
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Changed the timing belt. Used the red mark up top and the cut in the block on the lower one to get TDC. Changed everything with new parts. Double checked the marks after the belts were on (rotated by hand through two full turns and checked to see if the marks were in the same spot). I followed the write up that was posted here by U95.
Anyway, the car won't start. It tries cranking, but won't actually start. There is fuel and the battery should be good to go. There shouldn't be any Fuel/Compression/Air issues.
I guess my question is: If the timing belt is not tightened enough, would that keep it from firing?
Also, in trying to crank it by key every thing sounds normal (no knocks or pings or valves getting bent sounds) and turning by hand gives just the little bit or normal resistance but spins nicely.
I'll probably take the battery to get it load (I used my tender to try and start it as well, didn't make a difference) tested tomorrow and then try the starter (shouldn't be bad though, only 60k on the car). Otherwise I'll have to teardown and start over.
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Replaced fuel filter. Got all 4 washers plus cap from old filter. Engine won't start. Saw there is a fifth rubber washer that nobody mentions anywhere and transferred that to the new pump. still won't run.
When I turn the key to On, I can hear the pump turn on for 2 secs and stop. if I do this 5-6 times and then try to start, engine will start and then die immediately. seems the pump is not pumping when the engine tries to run. it pumps only for two secs when the key goes from Off to On position.
There are two lines going to the pump. which one feeds the engine. if I disconnect that line, should I see fuel coming out when I turn the key and try to start the engine?? or is there a better place to disconnect closer to the engine??
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I have a Prius 1st gen and I just started having this problem yesterday. I started the car and the warning lights came on but the engine started. Then I put it into gear and the car stalled, engine shut down completely. Then I put it back into park and the engine started up again. So I put it into drive again and the engine shut down again, put it back into park and the engine started up. So I turned off the car and waited several minutes, started the car and put it into drive gear and was able to drive it to a mechanic. He said they couldn't get a code reading on it.
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2002 elantra hesitates and sometimes stalls staring from rest. Worse when cold but still sluggish after warm up. Where do I start?
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My 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
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After over filling my fuel my car stalls (sometimes) on going back to idle. Not sure what to checks, check engine light is not on.
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I didn't need to replace the rear shoes. I just did it because the front brake pads were worn and I thought the rear shoes might be worn also. The front brakes were super easy to replace. The rear brakes not so easy. I ended up using a breaker bar and a 32mm axle socket wrench just to loosen the spindle/hub nut so I could remove the brake drum.
I re-assembled the brakes shoes and springs exactly like it shows in my Haynes manual. The new shoes are shaped identical to the ones I replaced. Now I can't get the shoes to seat tight when I apply the brakes and my parking brake isn't working at all, although I can see the parking brake lever move on the trailing shoe when the lever on the console in the car is raised and lowered.
I did as the manual directed. After putting the wheels back on, I applied the brakes "forcefully" a number of times while I was driving forward and backward. This was supposed to auto adjust the brakes. There is no adjuster slot. (The front brakes are stopping fine.)
The old shoes weren't that worn when I replaced them, so the parking brake shouldn't be totally out of adjustment. I don't want to remove the console and start messing with the parking brake cable adjustment until I can figure out what I must have done wrong when I worked on the rear brakes. It seems like the adjuster lever pawl is not working?
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I just recently had a new (used) gas tank and new fuel lines (front to rear) put on the car.
On the first fill-up, I pulled out from the gas station, drove 20 seconds to the next red light. The car stalled (automatic transmission) when I came to a stop. It was hard to start and hard to keep going, and had intermittent periods of extreme power loss when I drove it down the highway.
Took it back to the shop, there was an engine code for the O2 Sensor, so the O2 was replaced, but made no difference. They checked fuel pressure and the catalytic converter, both were fine. They wanted me to keep driving it until another code came up.
As the tank neared empty, the car started driving almost perfectly. Filled it up again, and the problems started all over again. I have tried driving it with the gas cap off to make sure air can get in to replace the gas, but made no difference.
I changed the spark plugs, and all 4 of the old ones were covered in black carbon from the fuel running too rich (i assume).
Also, when the car is idling and it starts struggling, the exhaust does smell extremely strongly and is grey.
Now, engine code [P1166 O2S Controller Adaption Diagnosis Malfunction (bank 1)] is appearing (I have to check with the garage monday to see if it is the same code they had earlier).
I'm not sure why a new tank would cause this, unless somehow dirt/rust ended up where it didn't belong during the changeover.
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06 Elantra Limited, 96,xxx miles. When I'm idling at a light or something, the Rpms drop for a split second, almost to the point of stalling, but recovers. Happens in a split second. Does the same thing even when driving, but does it more frequently when idling. It even does that when I first put my foot on the throttle to accelerate from a red light.
I've cleaned the throttle body but it still does it. I've taken it to 3auto parts stores. One said that battery was bad. The other said the battery is fine but alternator is producing low. The last said both are fine.
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In less than 30,000 miles, I've replace the clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate three times. Dealer adjuster clutch at 12,500. First replacement at 15,000 miles. I do not ride the clutch
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Have a 2001 CRV that is running really bad. It almost stalls when I put it in gear or even when the RPM's fall to idle. It is now throwing a p0172 code. I have a simple scan tool and verified the MAP reading and primary O2 voltages as suggested by the manual, both appeared to be normal. It seems all the symptoms point to valve clearance, however the valve were adjusted not 2000 miles ago by the dealer during the 150K service, and this issue has existed before and after that adjustment. I also cleaned the IAC screen with no changes.
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I have an '01 Focus Wagon. I've had this problem with the latching mechanism for a while, but it's gotten worse as time progresses. The latch catches and closes the door. The trunk isn't going to open, but it does not close fully. As a result, the door ajar light is always on my console. I used to fix it by manually closing the latch with by hand and then re-opening the latch. It closed almost every time after I did that. But now, even that is not working.
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I have a Hyundai elantra 2002 that is stuck in second gear. I was driving it, I came to a stop sign so I put it in neutral and when I shifted into first i heard a pop. I started driving and when I shifted into second I noticed the shifter was really loose, when I tried shifting into third I couldn't.. it is like there is a brick wall. I can shift from 1st to 2nd but the shifter just moves up and down. Also if I let the clutch up it stalls the car. I was told that my car is stuck in second gear.
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I have a 2005 5 speed manual elantra that I let my wife drive it home when I drove another vehicle and the next day when I went to drive it it started grinding going into second gear. What can be causing this? The clutch works great on the other gears.
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My 98 elantra will not shift out of 2nd gear?...
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I recently started getting transmission problems with my 2001 elantra.. the car would slam into second gear and the check engine light would come on and it get stuck in 3rd gear.. The codes I am getting are P0720, P0715, P1529. I searched and i found that most people that had this problem replaced the input and the output speed sensor and the problem is fixed.. so i went and i got two new sensors and replaced them i am still have the same exact problem... the car drives good for the first 5mins and then it would slam hard into gear, check engine light comes on the it get stuck in third gear...
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I bought my 2005 automatic 4 speed Elantra knowing of this problem and feeling good about being able to track it down. how ever This did not stand to be the case. Start up cold shifts through every gear smooth as silk with know slippage or harsh shifts. roughly 10 to 15 mins after the car reaches operating temp on the gauge it begins to slam into 3rd gear only. Most of the time it is a double slam. Like bam bam real fast but indeed does shift into the 3rd gear then into over drive smoothly. I can duplicate it any time i desire to by merely pulling it back into 2nd gear and manually pushing the shifter back up to 3rd. it will slam every time with out fail. The man i bought it from told me he had this trouble and changed the transmission out with a 500.00 used one and did the exact same thing...
So I felt must be electrical wiring or TCM bad but upon examination i found no codes present to date. he threw parts at it and replaced both input and output sensors based off some thing he read on the net. also he said he replaced the TPS with a TPS from a wrecked car, still same harsh shift. he however could not remember how the fluid looked upon changing it and the filter as he also did that, nor can he remember what fluid type he used. I know shot in the dark right??? What is the actually fix such a hard slam when shifting into 3rd.
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