Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Code P0128 Check Engine Light - Faulty Thermostat
Oct 22, 2016
I recently had the engine light come up on my Hyundai Elantra 2003. I read the code with my cheap little code reader with the torque lite (free) app on android. It threw the P0128 code which means a faulty thermostat.
Here's the web link to all the details on the code: [URL] ....
I have checked the coolant level and its good. The strength of the coolant is good to -40 Celsius. The engine fan is not running at all. I recently changed the thermostat. I'm leaning towards faulty ECT. The car takes forever to blow hot air too. It has done weird readings in the past with the temperature gauge in the cab.
I just bought a infrared temperature reader of Amazon and want to check the temperature where the water comes out of the engine past the thermostat and compare it to the reading on the torque app readings. I'm thinking it won't match.
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I keep getting the same code for the check engine light of P0128. I have replaced the thermostat twice and the ECT sensor already. I do know know what else I can do for getting this fixed. I have checked the fans and they are working correctly. I have also checked to make sure there is nothing wrong with the head gasket. My car does not over heat, but it does take forever for the temperature gauge to rise. This is for a 2006 Hyundai Elantra. What else I can do?
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I'm getting a P0128 code on my 2003 V4 Camry. Autozone diagnosis says it's either
a) coolant low level
b) sensor not working correctly
c) thermostat not working correctly.
As part of 90k mile check about 3500 miles ago, the mechanic replaced the coolant. I didn't check the coolant after he had replaced it but I just checked it today and it's about 1 inch below the full level. Is this normal coolant usage considering that it's been about 3500 miles and 3 months since it was last filled?If the coolant level is okay, then how do I figure out if it's the sensor/thermostat?
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08 RX350 with ~100K miles. Two weeks ago the Check Engine/TRAC light were on, VSC light blinks, so I tightened the gas cap, and pull the negative and cleared the code. Hoping this is just a gas cap issue.
2 weeks later all those lights are back again, so my mechanic pulled the code and came up with P0128. He told me it should be the problem with the Coolant Temperature Sensor. The water pump, thermostat was replaced last year and coolant level is OK. No issue with coolant temperature and the car drives like normal. My mechanic cleared the code and told me to drive it again until the lights come back and he will pull the code again.
08 RX350 AWD
08 Avalon Touring
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I have a 2002 v6 Camry with over 270k on it. Today the Check engine light came on while driving on the freeway. When I got home I used my scan tool and it gave me the following codes.
P0128, P0440, P0446 and P0440, P0441, P0446 pending.
I understand that the 128 has to do with coolant temp and that the other codes are evap system related.
What I'm trying to figure out is what might have caused them to all occur at the same time. I know once with my 98 Camry it threw a P0125 which had to do with coolant temp issues but it also threw several other codes for a bad 02 sensor and the 125 was just a false code (replaced the 02 sensors and they went away). If this 128 is possibly a false code or if I also have a bad thermostat/sensor on top of an evap system issue.
Also. coolant level is good and I checked the gas cap and insured it was on tight, reset the codes and am waiting to see what comes back.
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I have unfortunately inherited a 2007 Toyota Camry LE at the passing of an uncle. I recently purchased an Innova 3140 b diagnostic scanner which pulled up several codes. One of which keeps popping back.
P0128 refers to (according to innova).
Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temp Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature).
I have replaced the coolant temperature sensor but the codes came back after a few days. I cleared it once again and the code reappeared that same day. I have a thermostat on standby ready to install if the fix requires such.
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2002 Camry 4 cyclinder. P0128 code - replaced the thermostat and coolant. P0128 code is now locked in. Lifetd the battery cable, but it is still there when I start the engine - or - it comes comes back immediately when I start the engine. Coolant temperature looks normal on the dashboard gage when I drive the car. What should I do now?
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I'm getting a P0128 thermostat coolant below temp. Coolant level checks out. Temp sensor seems to work. It climbs to 160 and holds steady. I simultaneously had a thermometer in the top of the radiator. It went from 86 to 160 with with jump from 86 to 135 which corresponded to the temp sensor reading of 135.
I am assuming this is the thermostat opening. So, the level is right. The sensor is working and the thermostat appears to open and close. Why its throwing a code?
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I own an 04 Hyundai Elantra with around 196,000 miles on it, and have run across a problem I haven't had to deal with before. A few days ago, my check engine light came on while driving. I didn't really notice much, but when I started it again it began idling roughly. I got it home and pulled the code, which was P0341 (camshaft position sensor). This isn't the first sensor I've had go on the car (I replaced an oxygen sensor and throttle position sensor a couple years ago), however I ran into two problems:
1. How likely is it that it's the sensor that's bad as opposed to something like the timing belt or VVT adjustment?
2. Since the sensor isn't horribly expensive, I decided to try replacing it, but I can't get any socket to fit on the bolt that secures it. I've heard it's a 10mm, but nothing seems to fit snugly. Maybe there's just so much crud and corrosion that it's ruined the head. I tried using an extraction socket, but no luck.
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I just got this very nice Elantra 04 with 64k on it. Yesterday suddenly I got the check engine light on. Today I went to Auto zone and they have checked my car and it showed code P2626. But there are more than a few suggestions about what could be. I don't know what to do. See the attachment below.
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2009 Ford Explorer, 6 cyl, 4.0L, 74K. Read code w/scanner - "P0128 - Coolant Temp below thermostat regulating temperature". Assuming this is pretty straight forward but was wondering what the most likely culprit is (?thermostat?). Ironically, this code popped about a week ago, I cleared it and actually got my inspection sticker earlier today and then later in the day, the CEL came on again and once again, the P0128 code. The coolant level is perfect so I know there aren't any leaks.
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I bought an 04 elantra a few weeks ago. The check engine light is now on and I get code P0420 listed twice with my code reader. I have replaced the downstream O2 sensor and reset the codes only for them to return again. It is my understanding that this is going to be a convertor problem. My question is that from the research I have done it looks as though this car has two converters. One at the exhaust manifold and then another in the tailpipe. Which one is going to be the most likely causing my Check engine light to come on. Or do I need to replace both converters.
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I have a 2003 Elantra GLS. I am intermittently Check Engine light and error code is P0113 - Air Intake sensor issue. I can't locate where the sensor is. I don't see any wire coming of the tubing that connects the air filter to the engine.
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2004 Elantra AT ... 6 months ago top of the radiator cracked caused it to overheat and blow the head gasket and warp the head. Repaired that and compression is fine now. It ran great for 4 months but now it randomly stalls. at or near idle. Seems to do it more at operating temp rather then cold. Occasionally the check engine light will pop on and the code reads (random misfire). It acts just like it has been shut off. But immediately restarts.
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I recently bought elantra 2004 gls, with 107k mileage.
Few days ago the check engine light came on while I was driving it. The next day it went off. This happened today also. I didn't notice anything wrong with the car, no smell, tranny fluid is recent, oil change 2.5k ago.
The code was p0501, speed sensor.
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Got a 2002 GT with the NA 3.8 and 150,000 miles. The car has pretty much sat for the past 6 months, driven very sparingly. If it's been sitting for a while (like over night or longer) it will start no problem. If I turn the car off for a shorter period, it will crank but not fire. It will start only if I pump the gas as I'm turning the ignition.
In addition, on occasions it has died while at idle or coasting to a stoplight. After it dies it will fire back up no problem.
Fuel problem perhaps?
The "Service Engine Soon" light has been on for about a month before it started acting up. I had the codes checked at AutoZone and it came up with P0442 and P0128.
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AutoZone provided this code for my check engine light: P0010.
Definition: Intake camshaft position actuator circuit open
Explanation: ECM has detected a low voltage on the VCT circuit
Probable Cause: 1) Open or short circuit condition on the VCT circuit; 2) failed VCT solenoid
Is there a part I can replace myself that can fix this, or is this a dealer repair?
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I was wondering if this seems reasonable. I just bought a used 2008 Prius top trim package with 107,00 miles on it this last month. The first day I owned it a check engine light was triggered. The guy I bought it from hooked it up to his computer and cleared it to then try to trigger it again. This happened when I first turned on the car. I started backing and then it turned on. I didn't know what caused it as we couldn't trigger the response again. It's been a few weeks now and 1 trip to the shop for some repairs. There have been no problems what-so-ever since then and my Prius just started getting close to the 50 MPH as advertised after a tune up.
Today when I'm driving, as the seller did mention before could happen, the right headlight turned off. As he had told me before, just turning the lights off and turning them back on will get it working again. I did this and as soon as I did the check engine light came on. I go back to the night I originally had it happen and I was probably in the process of turning on my lights.
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The mechanic I use told me how he repaired a fault with the Honda Civic hybrid battery that kept the check engine light on and indicated a code for a faulty battery. It appears that if the different cells in the battery have a voltage variance between them that is outside of the parameters set, the light will come on and stay on. The customer was told by Honda service that he needed a new battery, but the car was out of the warraqnty period.
The mechanic theorized that he could remedy this if he drained the battery down and recharged it. After two cycles, the check engine light went off. I wonder if this would work for other hybrid owners?
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The check engine light on our 2005 Honda CRV (146,000 miles) came on and stayed on. After a week of driving with the light on we brought the car to the dealer to have it checked. The dealer diagosed a faulty catalytic converter given a P0402 diagnostic code and didn't think the P1078 code for the intake manifold a problem. The dealer also stated that the oxygen sensors were fine. We declined the dealers offer to replace the catalytic converter for $2,170 and the check engine light was reset. After two weeks of daily drifting and 1000 plus miles the engine light is still off. Did we actually have a problem? Why hasn't the light come on again?
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In the last month, my car has had an awful time starting on 2 different occasions. The first time it ran really rough for about 1 minute then was ok. The second time was the same but the engine light came on. Took it to an out of town dealer and he said it showed a misfire code but could never find anything else and all looked OK. Spark plugs?
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