Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Code P0016 Popped Out After Timing Belt Change
Dec 21, 2013
I just changed the timing belt on my sisters car and finished yesterday and drove it today. A check engine light came on so I went to check it out and P0016 popped up. I've done some research and people say that it might be that the timing belt is misaligned or loose. I tightened the belt not too tight but not too loose. Note: I also spilled coolant on the crankshaft pulley and a bit on the belt itself. The car idles rough when driving too. I will tomorrow take off the cover and check the tension of the belt.
View 9 Replies
Advertisement
After timing belt change code P0016 with Check engine light trac off and VSC light on.
Put on the entire kit...timing belt,tensioner, idler, and water pump. When I took it apart to put the new cam crank sensor I inspected everything and all looked good.
Changed the sensor and reset code, a few hours later back on. Car seems to run fine. I didn't think the sensor was bad. Car was running great...just due for timing belt.
View 6 Replies
My mechanic (also my Brother - certified dodge mechanic) says he might have put timing belt in backwards (as in the side that is supposed to be facing left, is facing right and vice versa). I dont want him to have to do the whole job over again unnecessarily.
I do have the codes P0016, P0018 (Camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor correlation) and of course a check engine light. Otherwise the vehicle is running great, no timing issues that I can notice.
This is a 2006 GX470 4.7L V8 2UZ-FE engine.
View 2 Replies
So about six months ago I bought a used 2010 mkvi gti from a small dealer. Now here's my problem. The other day i started my car and it was a rough start. And the car ran rough. I stalled twice trying to back up. Then the car threw a light. I didnt drive it at all. Shut it off and left it. Read the code that night. P0016
Now I know the timing tensioner thing has been beaten to death. So that's my first thought. However, there was never a rattle or a noise. Nothing like that. Is it possible? All four cylinders have compression. About 210psi. I don't know if that is good or bad. Plugs are worn but look good enough. Not too much junk on them. Coil packs look "newer" and they are the "upgraded" versions. Other than the tensioner what else could cause a p0016 failt?
View 2 Replies
Changed the timing belt. Used the red mark up top and the cut in the block on the lower one to get TDC. Changed everything with new parts. Double checked the marks after the belts were on (rotated by hand through two full turns and checked to see if the marks were in the same spot). I followed the write up that was posted here by U95.
Anyway, the car won't start. It tries cranking, but won't actually start. There is fuel and the battery should be good to go. There shouldn't be any Fuel/Compression/Air issues.
I guess my question is: If the timing belt is not tightened enough, would that keep it from firing?
Also, in trying to crank it by key every thing sounds normal (no knocks or pings or valves getting bent sounds) and turning by hand gives just the little bit or normal resistance but spins nicely.
I'll probably take the battery to get it load (I used my tender to try and start it as well, didn't make a difference) tested tomorrow and then try the starter (shouldn't be bad though, only 60k on the car). Otherwise I'll have to teardown and start over.
View 13 Replies
Had the stem seals replaced on my 2004 toyota camry 4 cylinder (2az-fe engine). The job went quickly and the realigned both camshaft marks to the respective yellow link and #1 and #2 bearing marks per the manual. However, now getting a P0016 error indicating timing is a bit off. It is difficult to verify that the top camshafts are aligned correctly to the crankshaft without taking off the side cover. Doing that is a 6 hour job and requires an engine lift.
Is there any easier, surefire way to check and adjust the timing on this engine without having to take off the side cover? It is probably just a tooth off since it is running well.
The attached pictures show how it was aligned before buttoning up.
View 11 Replies
I recently replaced the timing belt, tensioner, and roller in my car. Today I became concerned that I hadn't tightened the tensioner properly so I did a quick check (it was). I also noticed the timing belt felt a bit loose, so I tightened it to what I thought was about 1/4" deflection with 5lbs pressure—not what that feels like in that tight space.
When I started the car there was a noticeable whining sound. Before I changed the belt there was a slight whining sound (but there was no whine after I changed the belt). So I loosened the belt a bit and there's now a slight whine. I feel like the whine shouldn't be there but it's hard for me to imagine that the belt should be any looser since I can move it 1/4" inch without much effort.
So, should I be tightening the belt to the point where the whining is gone, or is a slight whine ok?
View 2 Replies
P0016 - Crankshaft Position | Camshaft Position Correlation
Bank 1 Sensor A
2006 Passat - 3.6L V6
Here is my issue: I was lazy and waited a bit too long to get my oil changed. I finally did 3 days ago. I have been very busy so I decided to take it to a local mechanic to let them take care of it. They flushed the oil, ran other oil through it with a new oil filter, flushed that, then put in new synthetic oil with another new oil filter. They also replaced the air filter.
Everything was fine for 2 days.
Then, while I was driving in stop and go traffic, the "EPC" and "Engine Malfunction" lights came on. There was also a loss of power and the car seems to wait too long to shift gears.
So, I took it back to the mechanic who had it a few days prior. He pulled the code from it (posted at the top), and cleared the code from the car. That mechanic told me that I need a "cam position indicator sensor". He also claimed that what he did had nothing to do with this issue. I decided to check with the dealer. He cleared the code and I left. After clearing the code, the car drove fine for most of that day, then it returned.
I spoke with the VW dealership's shop manager and he said that he does not believe that is the issue at all and asked me to bring it in. He also mentioned a clogged oil line as being the potential culprit.
View 5 Replies
I was wondering if the timing belt on my 05 RX 330 needed to be changed due to age and not miles. The car only has 72k miles on it but it is 10 years old.
View 5 Replies
So after saying "We don't work on that model" when I asked for a timing belt / water pump change (yup, they actually said that), I went in today to try and get a second key made since the guy I bought the Phaeton from only had 1. I do not have the little code. I was told that there was nothing they could do without the code. My only hope would be to contact EVE directly.
View 2 Replies
I just changed the timing belt and everything runs great. I pushed the AC button and no light came on. I checked all the fuses and they are good I took the H and L caps of and tapped the pin and there was air blasting out. Don't know what it could be? All I did was loosen the compressor and remove the belt and put it back on.
View 2 Replies
My dad changed the timing belt on my 99 CR-V in August and he had some trouble getting it in time (he had to tear down and put it back together 3 times!). Sometime after the timing belt/water pump/spark plug change, I noticed a vibration in the steering wheel while at a stop and a loss of MPG (went from getting 24 mpg to 22.7).
It did not happen immediately after the timing belt change (or at least i dont think it did) so i thought the mpg loss might be due to the changing weather and the vibration coming from a motor mount that i knew was broken, but I got the motor mount fixed and it did not do anything. I think that the vibration has gotten worse, but it seems to be at its worst when the car is really cold. (this morning the temp. was 9 degrees and it vibrated harder than it ever has).
The vibration only happens when the car is in park or at a stop, and it goes away when i accelerate, even if I only accelerate a little bit. I have not noticed a loss in power, or any sluggishness in acceleration. I have tried to research this, and I read something about the drive belt being out of time, but I'm not savvy with cars so I just don't know.
What could be the cause, do I HAVE to get it fixed, and what do you think a reasonable cost to repair is?
View 10 Replies
2002 galant 4cly overheating! So my Galant has 120k miles and I just had the timing belt replaced and I thought I'd be good and have the water pump replaced as well. When I got it back I made a few short trips with it and it was running fine then I took a longer trip about 30 miles and I noticed it was overheating, so I took it back to the shop they thought it was air in the cooling system so they preformed a few flushes, replaced the thermostat even though it was new and then replaced the pump again and the radiator cap, the radiator it's self was replaced maybe 1-2k miles ago. I don't believe the head is leaking since I'm not losing coolant and the oil isn't milky.....I'm at a loss, could the thermostat be the problem? Do I need one from the dealer? Is there a history with replacement pumps bad?
View 12 Replies
My mechanic just did the timing bet, water pump and other belts. Also changed the tensioner.
Car runs fine and everything seems great until I get to a red light. The engine sounds louder then before. Not very loud but its louder and maybe a very slight vibration, not sure yet. No noises while driving, seems like its running the same or better then before. Runs fine though
View 4 Replies
I have a 2005 Toyota Camry with 120K miles that was bought used with 110K. The previous owner did not have the vehicle long and did not know if or when the timing belt had been replaced. I have read several blogs that recommend replacing the timing belt at 60 or 90K. To err on the conservative side I decided just to do it at 120K. Now my problem. Before the timing belt change there was a slight knocking from one of the cylinders. After the belt change the knocking is more pronounced. Q. How concerned should I be that the knocking is more noticeable? Could this be a by-product of the new belt and as it loosens the knocking will subside somewhat? OR, am I looking at valve job or worse?
View 8 Replies
We just had our timing belt changed today as well as the waterpump and fanbelts. It has a loud whining noise now and I don't know if it is even safe to drive back to the mechanic...
View 3 Replies
1987 Acura Integra AT with 158k... Water pump broke after 75k miles (in 18yr period)....
I am wondering what else should I have it done:
- thermostat
- oxygen sensor (is there one?)
- vacuum tubes (I hear that these fail due to age)
- anything else?
Are these near where they will be working on? Any other tips?
View 6 Replies
I have 2004 Chrysler Sebring base model 4 cylinder with 90,000 miles. Paid off long ago. The schedule says its time to change the timing belt but no symptoms. No other issues and have kept up the maintenance. The cost is around $1000. I need the car to last 2 more years until our new car is paid off. Should I do the repair or play the odds that it won't break down?
View 19 Replies
I purchased a 2005 Opel Corsa C 1.8l with around 70k miles. The car is in a fantastic shape, I've had it for around 6 months, having driven around 6k miles. The first maintenance I did was changing all oils and filters, and changing the accesory belt (the one that powers the alternator, that one is not dented). I was told back then at the workshop that the timing belt (not sure if that is the correct name for the belt with dents that syncs valves, etc.) was in a good shape. I don't know if the previous owner/s ever changed it. I understand that the damage done when that belt breaks could get pretty serious, with bent valves, mainly. The question is, should I change the belt now? How long do those last?
View 13 Replies
What is the recommended interval for the timing belt change? I have a '96 B2300 with ~85K on it and he original timing belt. I wanted to change the serpentine belt and my mechanic said he'll take a look at the timing belt. It's not cracked or anything but he says that after 8 years it should be changed.
View 14 Replies
I have a 98 Honda Accord 4 cylinder with 110k miles on it. It used to be very quite and drives smoothly. I recently had my timing belt and water pump replaced. Right after i got my car back from my mechanic, the driving felt differently. Two main problems, first, every time I stop at red lights or traffic, the car vibrates and you can feel it from the steering wheel. Second, when I start to accelerate and when engine is over 2100 rpm, the engine becomes much louder than before, I feel like I am driving a race car. Other than these two problems, the can seems to drive fine. I took it back and they told me this is normal and takes time to settle down. Is this normal after the time belt change or what might have gone wrong?
View 14 Replies
