We swapped transmissions in 01 elantras.. We installed a new clutch kit . When we go to start the clutch won't completely disengage, it only pulls it some, not enough. We replaced Tran fluid and bled it. We swapped out the throw out bearing arm and at first it worked now it doesn't..
View 3 RepliesOk santa fe 2006 (facelift) clutch was slipping. We've put new clutch kit in it (thrust bearing; friction and pressure plate). We discovered it had already had the DMF concersion to single mass. So we ordered the single mass clutch kit for it and fitted. All back together, clutch won't disengage and allow you to put it in gear!!! So took it all apart again to check the fitting as the inspection hatch it just didnt appear all fingers on the pressure plate was being pulled.. all looked correct, thrust bearing snapped in to place as it should... we got box back on (making sure the lever entered the thrust bearing correctly) and still no luck. When you press the clutch you can pull the rubber on the slave cylinder back and the piston moves all the way to the circlip. There appears to be movement on the pressure plate in the box. At a complete loss.......... what could have happened?
View 3 RepliesSanta Fe 2003 petrol manual 2.4
I had a slipping clutch so decided to change it myself.
I replaced the Dual Mass Flywheel the clutch pressure plate and clutch plate.
Re assembled and the car started first time but the clutch would not disengage.
Pressed the clutch peddle down and it went to the floor until the fluid had filled then it went solid.
I pressed it down again and the clutch did not release so pressed harder and 'pop' the master clynder went - but the clutch would not disengage.
Taken the gearbox back off now and the release bearing is in sit it just would not disengage -
My 01 GTi (12v VR6) was having some trouble shifting into, and out of, first and reverse so after a bit of research I decided to try adjusting the shift linkage as it seemed like a possible easy fix. After doing that I tried backing it up in the driveway and after a couple of shifts to different gears it ended up getting stuck in reverse. When I pushed in the clutch pedal to let it roll forward I noted that it seemed to be resisting rolling forward despite the steep incline. Once it reached a less steep incline it stopped rolling forward completely, so I'm thinking that it probably won't come out of gear because the clutch won't disengage all the way.
I've done some searching around and from what I've read so far it sounds like it could be a worn or damaged clutch fork, the hydraulic lines, master or slave cylinder, or even a broken clutch plate. What I don't want to do is pull the transmission and clutch, only to find that it was something much easier to fix.
I have a 2001 F550 flatbed tow truck with a 7.3 and the ZF 6 trans. i put a Luk clutch flywheel pressure plate new throw out bearing new clutch fork New clutch slave cylinder and master set up. When i push the clutch in it is VERY EASY compared to the way it was before. Ane when you push the clutch in and put it in gear you can hear the clutch disc rubbing on the flywheel and if you lift your foot the thickness of a hair the truck takes off. Also i can't engage my PTO because the clutch is not disengaging all the way. there is No adjustments on this set up. What Now.
View 2 RepliesI have a 95 Honda civic with a d15b block and a d16z6 head millage unknown I put a new clutch in it already had a new slave and master I installed a few weeks ago and when the car is running with out the clutch pressed in I can run through all the gears shift with ease it's like the clutch is pressed in but it's not
I've tried dropping the tranny and checking the pressure plate the clutch disc throw out bearing pilot bearing all good and installed right I rebleed the system then I removed the slave to see if it was in the hydroelectric system and still no change what am I missing.
The cooling fan clutch never seems to disengage so I was wondering where can i find a clutch that is light duty so it will disengage easy and work with gas mileage napa list two different ones, maybe off a different vehicle....
View 3 RepliesOk so I have a 97 Ford Explorer 5-speed manual transmission. When I start the truck up in first gear, with my clutch pedal fully depressed, the truck goes forward as if im not pressing the clutch pedal down at all. And if I start the truck up in neutral, with the clutch pedal fully depressed, I cannot get into any gear. There are no leaks anywhere and there is plenty of fluid in the reservoir. What the problem may be or where i might wanna start looking?
View 1 Replies2000 ranger, 4.0L 5spd 4x4
Recently my buddy's 2000 ranger's clutch stopped working, it wouldnt disengage. I checked the reservoir and it was empty, checked below and between the bellhousing and engine was soaked. I filled the reservoir up and attempted to bleed the system with my vacuum bleeder and it barely got any fluid out. Ordered a new slave cyl and just put it in today. You could see how wet the old one was when I took it out.
So today when I finished installing everything, I filled the reservoir and bled the system, lots of fluid coming through, everything seemed good, however the clutch still feels extremely light, and won't disengage. I looked at it through the inspection cover and there is maybe a 1/4" of movement total. I don't get why this thing is not working! How can you tell is the clutch master cylinder is bad?
Just noticed yesterday that the compressor clutch does not disengage while the air conditioner is on. It is 2005 V6 Sonata Elite. All the other cars I have ever owned had compressor clutches that cycle. Internet searches indicate that there might be air conditioners with only a low-pressure switch.
View 2 RepliesI picked up my Santa Fe yesterday. 7 seater Premium manual.
However the clutch does not seem to disengage until very close to the floor almost to the extent that I feel the gears crunch and r a little notchy in use because of this ???
Is this a characteristic of the manual gearbox for the new model ???
I have a 1997b Chevy S10 ZR2. When I disengage the clutch the RPMs rev out of control, I shut the truck off and restart it, sometimes this works till the next shift. It used to be only when I would come to a complete stop now it is every time I shift... I have my 1 year old granddaughter and this is unsafe to drive with her and I am at a loss... replaced complete clutch assembly just a year ago and as it is when disengaged not clutch??
View 11 RepliesI just installed a new Sachs flywheel and clutch on my 1995 Chevy 1500 4x4. Got everything back together, filled up tranny fluid and gear oil, bled the clutch till no air came out and it still won't shift while the engine is running. I can get it into reverse with a little grinding when in 4H, but that's it. The stick moves freely when the engine is not running. Checked the master cylinder and it is moving just fine. I have checked and did not install the clutch plate facing the wrong way. Any other guesses on what I can do before I have to drop the transmission again and redo the whole install?
View 19 RepliesMy clutch went out on my 98 Dodge Ram 2500 4WD the other day. I limped it home shifting like a big truck timing the shifts w/out the clutch. I replaced the slave cylinder w/ an aftermarket that had a bleeder. Bled it and got the pedal back up and it still wouldn't disengage the clutch. I replaced the master cylinder and started getting pedal back until I let the reservoir get too low and now after plenty of tries, I can't get any pressure built. I get a stream of fluid, but no air. Bench bleed the master and start over? I'm at a loss.
View 5 RepliesThis morning, I shifted into neutral and left the truck running. When I got in it put it in reverse, the shifter peddle went all the way to the floor and the clutch did not engage. I turned off the engine, and the transmission shifted easily. I put it into reverse, started the engine, and when I tried to shift back into first, the same thing happened. Pedal to the floor with no resistance, and I could not get it into gear. I finally forced it into 1st to get back into the driveway, but had to stall the engine to keep from going through the garage door. The clutch would not disengage at any time. I checked the master cylinder and it is 1/2 full. Has my clutch gone out?
View 14 RepliesI just replaced the clutch plate and throw out bearing since the clutch was bad but now its like the clutch has seized up or maybe the transmission is bad. I did start it up and a friend of mine Idk stepped on the gas or something and blew the clutch master cylinder.
2001 Hyundai Elantra ... I dont know anything about this car ....
I have a manual 98 civic with 120k miles on it that has recently developed an annoying habit of stalling. The car started fine the other morning so I backed it into the driveway to warm up, no problems there. When I went to leave for work, the car stalled and died. I got it restarted but when I tried to drive it stalled again. It happened as soon as I disengage the clutch. As I said, moving in reverse was no problem. The battery died after I attempted several times to restart it so I charged the battery overnight.
The next morning the car fired up right away with no hesitation nut as soon as I released the clutch it started sputtering so I gunned the engine to keep the RPM's up. I managed to get it into 2nd and even 3rd but as soon as I down shifted for a stop sign it died. So far I've replaced the battery and the alternator, both were on their way out anyways. Then this past weekend I got a good deal on a new fuel pressure regulator and put that on. The car started right up and ran nice and smooth. I took it out for a drive for about a half hour.
About 20 minutes into the drive I noticed that when I pressed on the gas pedal, the RPMs wouldn't move up much higher. Shortly thereafter the car started sputtering while accelerating. When I got home I turned the car off and went inside. I came out about 15 minutes later and the car wouldn't start. This has happened after every part replacement. New alternator, runs fine for 20-30 minutes,then won't start again. New battery, same thing. And tonight the gas pressure regulator. Could it be the main fuel relay, should I pull the injectors? The plugs and wires are new and the distributor is less than 2 years old and well sealed. I'm at a real loss here.
The A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1991 Ford F150 I bought. Told the transmission was shot, long story short, found out it was just a bad clutch. Pulled the transmission, replaced the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. Put everything back together, now i cant get the clutch to fully disengage. Had good pressure prior to replacement of the clutch, still has some pressure. just doesn't have enough to disengage the clutch. pulled the inspection cover, and verified the slave is moving. What is causing this issue?
View 14 RepliesI think this is just poor dealer service, but I need a sanity check.
I have 93k miles on my Corolla. My clutch creaks like an old school bus when I engage and disengage. It's done this pretty much all along and I think I had another dealer successfully lube the linkage to quiet it down -- it was miles and years ago so I may be misremembering that.
My current dealer says all they can do for it now is REPLACE THE WHOLE FREAKING CLUTCH assembly to the tune of $1,300. Clearly, I'm not doing this. As long as it works, I ain't replacin' the clutch, but, REALLY?
I went driving today and for a moment I could engage/disengage the clutch pedal with little to no effort. It goes back to the normal force after 3-4 shifts.
It's the exact opposite of what's happening in this thread. [URL] ....