Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Clicking Sound When Making Turns - Driver Side CV Boot Broken
Aug 19, 2016
Last year, when the passenger's side CV boot ripped and all that grease few around, it started to make that familiar clicking sound when making turns. I had a heck of a time replacing it. Did not like to doing the work.
Now, the driver's side boot is ripped. Grease everywhere. The clicking sound is just starting to be noticeable. Can I just wash out the CV joint and repack it with grease and a new boot? Or, should I just replace the CV joint?
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What is the cause for a clicking sound coming from Left hand side wheelwell area when I make semi tight Left hand turns from a parked/stationary position?
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So, last week I got my transmission replaced and they also had to replace the CV axle because it was damaged beyond repair when the Transmission self-distructed. They drove it after all the repairs and said it was driving fine, just that it had a belt squeak.
On my way home (30 min drive) about 10 minutes in, still in the city, my brakes start making a grinding noise and sort of a thump thump thump when I brake which sounds like its coming from the passenger side front, it makes me really nervous. It doesn't sound like any brake grindy noise Ive ever heard before and it wasn't making any brake noises before it broke down. (On a side note: it also made a weird noise maybe the first 3 times I drove it after getting it back and I turned the wheel hard to back out of a parking space, that used to be when I heard the belt squeak but I haven't made it squeak since I got the car back.)
Everyone I talked to said it sounded like it needed new pads so tonight I bought new brake pads and rotors for the front and got everything taken apart. The rotors didn't look bad at all, just some light surface scratches, nothing deep, no warping I could see, and the brake pads look almost brand new. I did notice that the inside brake pad on the passenger side was missing its little metal plate that is usually between the caliper and the pad, so I went ahead and replaced all of the brake pads hoping this lost metal plate was the issue.
I also turned the rotor by hand on each side while the brake pads were off and the only difference I could notice was when turning the passenger side one it made a little more noise almost like it was loose.
I got everything put back together and drove around the neighborhood with my boyfriend in the car to listen, the grinding noise was gone and it seemed to brake really well (never got above 30 mph.) However, on my way to return the rotors to advanced auto (45-50 mph) it started making the thump thump thump noise but without the grinding, still on the passenger side. I can feel it in the gas pedal and now it not only happens when I'm braking, but also any time I let my foot off the gas pedal. The only time I dont feel/hear it is when I'm accelerating.
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In the summer months when the air conditioning is in use, there is a back up of water. i can hear the water sloshing sound when the air is on and when making sharp turns it actually drains out on the front floor, both driver and passenger sides. it has also overflowed out the backseat air vents. my mechanic has told me the drain on this vehicle is tiny and becomes clogged easily. the car is parked in my garage, not left out in the elements so i disagree.
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The driver's side coil spring broke, but here's the story.
When I found out there was a recall on my 2004, I called the dealership. They told me that they were not replacing the coils springs, they were only going to attach a brace or bracket in case the coil springs would fail.
Well, last night the coil broke and it was in the parking lot and not at 50mph on the road.
What about bracket fix? It was told to me that it would only prevent the coil from cutting into the tire, not fix it.
I am going to call Hyundai HQ this morning, but what should I expect? Is it unreasonable to expect to get a set of springs and have someone local do the work?
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I've got a 2004 Elantra, 4 Door Sedan. My wife drove it yesterday and parked it. She later attempted to start it, and it won't start. When she turns the key, the car makes whirring sound like it's about to start up and gets to the point just to where it should turn over, but never does. Lights come on, etc, so it appears it's not a battery issue. We're not super mechanically inclined, but sometimes things like this can be easy fixes.
On another quick note: her car had it's engine light come on a few weeks ago. Took it to the car parts store and read it as a catalytic convertor issue. It went away after she refilled up on gas, so we figured maybe it was some bad gas.
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My front driver side brake line broke. It had a typical double flare fitting at the caliper but at the distribution block on the other end it had a flared fitting that would be used on a industrial hydraulic unit. I took it to the NAPA store and they told me to cut the nut off the old line and put it new line and double flare it. I did and it leaks. Do I need a special fitting on the end that goes the distribution block?
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Just installed raxle on my driver side. All clicking sounds are fixed but I noticed if I take right turns sometimes you can hear a constant clunking sound coming from the driver side wheel. It doesn't happen all the time, you kinda have to turn and hit a certain angle of the steering wheel. Also, only happens when driving low, if I raise the car just a little bit its gone. Never had issues with my oem axle binding so Im not sure how exactly does the binding sound?
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I am the original owner of a 2008 Prius, and am familiar with the various noises that the car likes to make. However, a new clicking noise has started recently, and need to identify the source/cause, so I can (hopefully) repair it myself, or have it repaired cost effectively.
I have attached a pic of what I think is the source of the noise.
This pic is looking upwards under the dash, above the brake pedal. In the center of the pic is a white thingamajig. This thing is attached to a motor on the right side (to the right of what I think is a yellow bearing or washer), and the other end is attached to a darker gray arm. When the climate control makes an adjustment, the motor turns, the white plastic piece turns, and the arm moves. What appears to happen is that sometimes, the motor continues to operate when it shouldn't, and these plastic pieces all kind of move around, clicking.
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My 2003 F-250 5.4l gas started making a recurring clicking sound from under the dash on the left side. It started last summer and would repeat numerous times each time I had the truck out. It's the kind of sound the turn signal makes. Always 5 clicks. It stopped happening when the weather got cold here in Canada, but started again this week (maybe because of the the warm weather we're having). How do I troubleshoot what the issue is? If the headlights are off it also flashes the lights in the instrument cluster five times.
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I have a clicking sound on the driver side front tire. It only makes the noise when I am in motion and have the wheel turned. It does it reverse and forward. The CV axle is not turning, and it does it with 4x4 engaged and the cv axle turning. I had the front end apart not to long ago replacing the IWE Integrated wheel hub, and the bearing isn't to terrible old, and its a timken.
It didn't wobble when the wheel was up in the air, and seemed solid. All the other front end pieces have also been replaced. I also hear a rubbing noise when I am driving on that side. For awhile before I replaced my IWE Hub I thought it was the cv axle just turning ( I had the lined unplugged so it was engaged to prevent damage), well after fixing the IWE Hub it still makes the sound and the cv axle is not turning as it was before.
Wondering if the bearing is maybe on its way out? One thing I did notice is tie rod end I just replaced along with all my new front end parts (upper control arms, and lower ball joints) the boot is severed completely all the way around. However the tie rod appeared to be in good shape, just the boot has been cut or split some how. Which I plan to fix, but I don't see how that would cause a clicking sound. I have inspected to make sure no lines or vac hoses are rubbing, and they are not.
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I noticed that the driver side front wheel makes a metallic scraping noise while the car is turning right. It sounds like something scraping the rotor or shield behind the rotor ( a rotational/moving kind of scraping noise)
This only happens on a relatively sharp turn (wheel is turned 70~80% to the right). I don't suspect the power steering as there is no noise if the car is not moving even when wheel is turned to extremes. The scraping noise happens at any speed, as long as the car is moving. does not happen when car is turning left.
Note that I am 90% certain it is from the front... my ears may be playing a trick on me (kind of hard to listen precisely while driving). Where to start looking?
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Due to the rain this weekend I decided to clean out my interior and do some maintenance. Lately my driver-side door has been making a squeaking sound. As such, I decided to lube up all the doors just in case. Upon inspecting all the doors/hinges I found that both the driver-side rear door and passenger-side rear door hinge bolts are rusted real bad. These are the bolts that connect the hinge to the door rather than the hinge to the door frame.
I inspected the door for any sign of water intrusion, but could not see anything out of ordinary. Also, nothing else was rusted or appeared to be water damaged. I inspected all the other hinge bolts around the car for comparison and they were fine. It is strange that both rear passenger doors have this issue. I bought the vehicle used and the Carfax comes back clean with no accidents or damage reported.
The only other time I have seen this is when the door has been worked on, and a socket was used which stripped the protective paint off the bolt. Even then only the rough edges of the bolt rusted, and not the entire thing. While I could foresee one door being worked on, I do find it strange that both would have needed work. However, this assumption does not rule out the possibility.
My only other issue of concern which may play into this is the surprising amount of sand I find on the exterior. As good as one can clean a car there are always some places that will never get fully clean. With that said, while the exterior is clean I have found sand residue in little crevices (weep holes) and corners throughout. I am sure that sand and moisture would play a part in causing rust to accumulate, except that no other parts show any sign of rust. This is certainly bizarre to me. I plan on replacing the bolts, but would like to remedy the problem before hand if possible.
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2007 3GS 350 awd.
While I'm driving my car ( at a rolling speed 5mph-20mph) I get a clicking sound from front driver side when I hit a small bump, stop, and stop and go at a traffic light. Mainly clicking noise when I hit bumps, but when traveling at highway speeds and I hit a bump I do not hear the clicking noise. ITS VERY ANNOYING, and I have never heard this noise after the brutal snow we just got here in MA. Also I should add, I am currently on BC Racing BR type coil overs which I bought brand new and installed in October. Its not clunking like ball joints, or banging like a blown strut mount.
My question; Where to start? Something needs lubrication?
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I know this has been covered before and I did search but got no where. It's covered in the FAQ sticky but the link is no good. Where can I get an axle assembly that's not going to cost me 550 bones like on ECS?
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I have had this slight rattle sound in roof driver side rear which comes randomly if road is bad or bumpy.. It doesnt bother me but would be nice if it wasnt there. I don't know what it is but seems like some wire or something inside in corner which shakes...
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Just tore through my second driver side outer boot it's frustrating. I'm thinking about buying an axle but are the boots not going to rip on them. Thing is I don't really get why the are ripping since I'm not super low or anything I know people that are lower and haven't had any issues
I put this new OEM axle in just a couple months ago. Could my Coilover be sitting to low in the strut housing and rubbing on the boot or what. I don't know if that is the mechanical terms but I did my best but how would I go about fixing this.
When I was looking around for the axle last time and I tried to go through smaller shops but none of the axles they had matched up, so I had to go to the dealership and my wallet took a beating. This time thinking about the cv boot kit for urotuning.
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I just bought my first car: a 2007 Toyota Yaris. It has a torn CV boot on the driver's side (don't worry, I was aware of this when I bought it). I've done my homework, and I understand that if I do nothing, at some point I will start to hear a clicking or clunking sound when turning the wheel, that will gradually grow louder over time. Eventually, I'll be driving along, and the CV joint will break for good, resulting in either:
a) the gas pedal won't propel the car, I will slam on the breaks and be stuck on the side of the road, or
b) (in rare cases) the driver's side wheel will fly off, leaving me stuck in the ditch, and possibly dead.
I don't want
a) to happen, but I really don't want
b)! I've also learned that replacing the whole CV axle is probably the best fix for this, and that the a cheap way to do it is to order the part myself and bring it to a mechanic.
So here's my question: Should I absolutely be fixing this before I drive to Michigan? In other words, if I don't fix, and then get 50 miles into driving to Michigan, and start hearing that click-click-click sound, am I screwed? Once the clicking starts, do you think the joint would fail before 1500 miles, or do I have a grace period?
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I recently bought a 2005 Elantra. At about 45 mph I start noticing air noise from the Driver side window. It peaks at about 70 mph. Not super loud but sounds almost like the window is very slightly cracked open. There is no air intrusion or water during rains.
I had the dealer check it and they test drove and said that it was normal and probably caused by the mirrors.
I have had mirrors like this before on other cars and never had air noise.
My question to you all is; Is this normal or should I pursue it further.
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My car was driving fine earlier today. I have been hearing a knocking that sounds like it's coming from the front drivers side for awhile now. I have an appointment to get that checked out tomorrow. However, today I washed my car. I washed it by hand and didn't was the engine or spray the under carriage. About an hour after I washed it I got out on the road and it started violently shaking at about 45mph. Other than that it seems to be running fine. It's not missing or making any strange noises. Why it would start shaking like this? I also need to know if I should be able to drive 100 miles to the shop where it is under warranty?
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On our 2016, it's got this weird scratching sound.. It is so faint, but definitely noticeable. It SOUNDS like it's coming from the driver wheel area; or perhaps under driver dash/footwell. I've looked at the brake rotor/suspension and everything looks good.
It isn't solid either; it'll do it SOMETIMES with the brakes, on starts/stops, and SOMETIMES it does it going over a speed bump... It literally sounds like someone scratching their finger across the rough part of the dash...
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