Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Check Engine Light Is On For 2 P0501 Codes
Mar 22, 2015
I've replace the input and output transmission speed sensors on my 01 GLS. check engine light is on again for 2 P0501 codes. There is no abs speed sensor on the left side but there is on the right side which doesn't look like it is seated correctly. The transmission is still shifting kinda funny sometimes. Should I have abs speed sensors on both sides? And what else should I do to fix the random erratic shifting?
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I have a 2002 SF GLS/LX (?) with 2.7 L V6 2WD (60,000 miles) and it started to apply the ABS brakes in a random manner. Found out it was caused by a broken front wheel tone ring. So, I pulled the ABS fuse under the dash and it stopped the brake problem. Drove it today to pick up some wood and now the check engine light has come on.
My neighbor has an OBD scanner and he plugged it in and said I have a P0501 code and a P1529 code, but he didn't know what they meant. What they mean and are they related to me pulling the fuse under the dash? Did I pull the wrong fuse? Is there another fuse somewhere that I should have pulled?
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I recently bought elantra 2004 gls, with 107k mileage.
Few days ago the check engine light came on while I was driving it. The next day it went off. This happened today also. I didn't notice anything wrong with the car, no smell, tranny fluid is recent, oil change 2.5k ago.
The code was p0501, speed sensor.
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Have an 01 elantra as a second car and it's great. Just recently tho the check engine light came on and I've got a few codes that make sense since there has been some odd issues with it in the past month or so.
02 sensor CKT bank 1 sensor 2 (slow response)
shift solenoid D malfunction
shift solenoid C malfunction
shift solenoid B malfunction
Trans range circuit malfunction (PRNDL input)
So I know the 02 sensor needs to be replaced, that's fine. I'm more concerned about the rest of the codes because when cruising around 40mph the car tries to shift to 4th gear or something like that, it will bog down because the rpm is too low (maybe its overdrive, not sure).
That's a minor issue but has been there since we got the car over the summer, the bigger issue is the last couple of days, i've noticed that when driving the car around the city, slow down - turning - and then accelerating the engine/trans will buck harshly a few good times before it smoothens out, my guess is the gear change didn't go well.
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I have an 05 Elantra GLS auto transmission, ~83000 miles. Last Friday, the car was driving fine. I didn't drive it on Saturday, but when I started it up Sunday night, that's where the issue began. First, when I shift into reverse, the car makes a noise like as when you go over a pot hole. Idle RPM is around 800.
When I press the gas pedal, usually the response from the car to go forward is almost instantaneous, but now it take a second or two from the time I press down the gas pedal to when the car moves forward. The process is smooth though, no hiccups as it does that. Next, when I was driving on the highway between 70 - 80 MPH, the car's RPM was 4000 - 4500. It even sounds like the engine is "working harder" than it usually does. The 'Check Engine' light is also on with these codes: P0700 and P0885.
Another thing I noticed is that the car alternates between running fine and running with the conditions described above. If the car run with the symptoms described above, I shut off the car and restart it. Then it will run fine, but the check engine light will stay on. Then if I turn off the car and restart it, it will go back to the mode where I have the issues.
From some research, the P0700 code just means that the TCM has the actual code which is P0885. According to the tech manuals at [URL] ...., the P0885 has the following probable causes.
- Malfunction of the A/T control relay
- Malfunction of connector
- Malfunction of the PCM
The car actually ran fine today, with out any issues but the Check Engine light is stuck on. How to replace/service this PCM item? Or maybe this issue is covered under 100,000mile warranty?
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While on my 20 mile commute my check engine light turned on, attached the code reader to the car and got codes P0422 and U0D00. Looked up the P0422 code to find "Caralyst efficiency below normal (bank 1)" I have a list of possible fixes but have no luck finding out about the U0D00 code. I notice I lose and a quart of oil every month and when I start the car, the first 5 seconds or so the engine revs to 4000 rpm.
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I just purchased a 2005 elantra with 133k on it and she runs fine other than a slight erratic idle. And by slight I mean it will jump about 50-100 rpm idling and every blue moon it will jump up to 250 rpm sitting there. After idling for a while my CEL came on with the following codes.
P0507 idle air control rpm high
P0506 idle air control rpm low
P0170 fuel trim malfunction bank 1
P0121 throttle position sensor
What could be causing this? I took the iac off and cleaned it with maf cleaner but it didn't work.
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My check engine light popped up the other day and when ran, 3 codes popped up: p2414, p2195, and p0170. From what I could gather it looks to be the O2 sensor is bad. This would be the one on the exhaust manifold, correct?
Also, what would cause the o2 sensor to go bad in the first place? My 09' has roughly 65k miles.
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We have Elantra - 4 Door sedan 2006 model. We have not driven much; about 23000 miles. All of a sudden we got Check Engine Light ON. I took the car and got it tested at Pep Boys to get codes. It came out as PO700 and PO885.
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I have a 2011 Elantra that I purchased brand new. Has over 60,000 miles on it. Had a check engine light come about year or so ago which was fixed with a software update at the dealer.
Check engine light is back on now. Steady light; it's not blinking. Brought it to my mechanic. Ran diagnostic and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. P codes were P2096 and P2196. He ordered the sensor from the dealership and installed it. Reset my cars computer. I drove the car 26 miles and the engine light came on again.
Here are my questions:
1. Wouldn't my mechanic's diagnostic equipment tell him what the problem or all the problems were? Why would it tell him the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced when there seems to be another problem causing the engine light to come on?
2. Would the dealership have more insight into a check engine light system problem than a mechanic shop may have?
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My '04 santa fe 3.5 v6 gls/lx, 79k miles, gas, auto, check light has just come on while I was driving a less than 10 mile journey. How can I check what is wrong. Do I need some sort of diagnostic code checker. Do any national outlets check it for free (Pep Boys or Auto Zone, etc).
Just 5 days ago (about 50 miles only) I had timing belt, water pump, plugs and leads replaced, brakes checked and lubes flushed; BUT not at above dealers. I would rather know what the code is saying before I go back to the shop who carried out the work.
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I am getting a p0501 code (off my code reader) on my 2001 Elantra. I have already replaced the Speed sensor on top of the transaxle under the air filter. Driving into work today check engine light came back on and took to AutoZone. They are getting a P0501 code Sensor "A". They had no idea which sensor, sensor "A" was. I know there are 4 sensors on this car and have searched for other posts with no luck, all say replace speed sensor. Need to get this done to pass emissions.
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I have had a check engine light go on and off with P0700 and P0741 but since the flush day 3 it hasnt come back on and it was chucking with rpm doing small jumps... but now it does it in the mornings after sitting all night after a few chucks its fine for the rest of the day til the next day no check engine light so far, but transmission flush has worked a lot not as bad as before the flush.. So what else could be causing it? Its a 2006 hyundai santa fe with 274,000 kms.
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So I am getting a CEL and p0501 (Vehicle Speed Sensor) code and don't quite know how to approach it.
Other forums/posts suggest that I check or replace the input and ouput sensors on the transmission, but from what I understand those are each a unique code, and the p0501 is for a sensor located on the transaxle. Is this the case?
I was under the impression that because my car did not have ABS that I did not have the latter sensor on the transaxle, only the input/output on the transmission. If that is the case, will replacing both eliminate the CEL/p0501?
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My check engine light came on the other day, with no symptoms or problems. Today I stopped at the Auto Parts store and had the codes read. They were P0440, P0441, P0446, and P0301. They are for the EVAP system and misfire.
I had read here that one of the codes could be for the gas cap so I tightened it and then, also as read on here, disconnected the negative 12 V battery cable to perhaps clear the check engine light. I was curious.
When I started the car again, I now have not only the check engine light, but the red triangle exclamation point. How would you proceed? The 12 volt battery is around 5 years old. The entire exhaust system was replaced last year.(not O2 sensors though)
The hybrid battery was replaced at 70,000 miles and I now have 110,000 miles on it. I really wonder why disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it caused more error lights to appear? Also, the Auto parts guy said his code reader was fine for my car but I seem to remember here that there may be a special Prius one.
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I have a 2001 Chevrolet Prizm with check engine light showing PO420 and PO446 codes, what could be the problem?
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My Girlfriend just got a 2003 Hyundai Elantra and everything was running great on it the first month she had it BUT the check engine light was on.. After about a month she called me up while driving and said that the check engine light was blinking and the car would hardly move. So I got to the car and looked at it and I noticed the oil filter was a little loose so I tightened it good this time and added a little bit of oil. It actually moved but it would hesitate. So we had it towed to a shop and they read the codes from the check engine light and told us it was leaking oil from the motor some where (not specific) and it also needed a new O2 sensor.
So I replaced the catalytic converter underneath the car and also a new sensor along with a new set of spark plugs. It ran alot better and I left it at that. Now about a week later she was coming home and noticed that when she turned left or right that the battery light and brake light on the dash came on. She drove it home and when she turned in the driveway the car went dead. It started right back up and we got it to the house and left it over night. I went out this morning and again it started right up. but when I lifted the hood I noticed the belts on the pulleys were all spinning very slowly. I'm not sure if it could be a timing chain or if it just needs new pulleys.
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While I am driving the car it will start to die and skip. Happens randomly. Today I was driving up a small hill and it went quits on me started lurching with check engine light coming on and off. The car will turn over and start, but only for a few seconds before dying again.
Seems to happen when the car is running for a while. Also the ABS light flashes on then off randomly while driving sometimes although It hasn't been an issue. Will be checking tomorrow to see if it starts.
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My 04 Elantra GT hatch is my lifetime favorite car. Especially like the rear seats that fold flat. It has 104k miles, but I want to keep it going.
Day before yesterday the blower started making loud noises. I took car back to Pepboys who replaced the cabin air filter they put in a month ago. They had installed it incorrectly, and it shredded with a 6 inch hole in the middle, and paper everywhere. When I left, the fan was not making any unusual noises.
Yesterday I drove 20 minutes on freeway, stopped to shop, started driving, and turned on fan. Immediately the check light went on. Back to Pepboys, service manager said check was P0501 and was a transmission speed sensor that couldn't be related to the filter mess.
Last night I found the Hyundai forum and I read in a post that this is a wheel speed sensor that would be located in the right front wheel and well not far from the cabin filter. Is it possible that the debris from the fan/filter collision has affected this speed sensor? Or is this just a very untimely coincidence?
I know nothing about automobiles. What I should do next and thereafter? Is it safe to drive this car as usual until the problem is fixed?
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I just bought a used 2004 Elantra that has 97,000 miles on it. When I took the vehicle out for a test drive it was smooth and quite. That was on Monday its now Saturday less than 300 miles later and the check engine light came on and it is having serious hesitation issues?! I am going to take it back where I purchased it from on Monday when they open but in the meantime I would like to know if its could be something simple?
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My check engine light came on in my 2005 Elantra. During the course of trying to find out why I realized that my transmission fluid was a little low. I went to Walmart and got a bottle of the multi vehicle fluid the auto counter man said it needed. I did come online to check to see if that was the right fluid before putting it in and see that evidently the specs are very specific for what type of transmission fluid to use.
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