I recently bought elantra 2004 gls, with 107k mileage.
Few days ago the check engine light came on while I was driving it. The next day it went off. This happened today also. I didn't notice anything wrong with the car, no smell, tranny fluid is recent, oil change 2.5k ago.
The code was p0501, speed sensor.
I've replace the input and output transmission speed sensors on my 01 GLS. check engine light is on again for 2 P0501 codes. There is no abs speed sensor on the left side but there is on the right side which doesn't look like it is seated correctly. The transmission is still shifting kinda funny sometimes. Should I have abs speed sensors on both sides? And what else should I do to fix the random erratic shifting?
View 3 RepliesI am getting a p0501 code (off my code reader) on my 2001 Elantra. I have already replaced the Speed sensor on top of the transaxle under the air filter. Driving into work today check engine light came back on and took to AutoZone. They are getting a P0501 code Sensor "A". They had no idea which sensor, sensor "A" was. I know there are 4 sensors on this car and have searched for other posts with no luck, all say replace speed sensor. Need to get this done to pass emissions.
View 2 RepliesSo I am getting a CEL and p0501 (Vehicle Speed Sensor) code and don't quite know how to approach it.
Other forums/posts suggest that I check or replace the input and ouput sensors on the transmission, but from what I understand those are each a unique code, and the p0501 is for a sensor located on the transaxle. Is this the case?
I was under the impression that because my car did not have ABS that I did not have the latter sensor on the transaxle, only the input/output on the transmission. If that is the case, will replacing both eliminate the CEL/p0501?
My 04 Elantra GT hatch is my lifetime favorite car. Especially like the rear seats that fold flat. It has 104k miles, but I want to keep it going.
Day before yesterday the blower started making loud noises. I took car back to Pepboys who replaced the cabin air filter they put in a month ago. They had installed it incorrectly, and it shredded with a 6 inch hole in the middle, and paper everywhere. When I left, the fan was not making any unusual noises.
Yesterday I drove 20 minutes on freeway, stopped to shop, started driving, and turned on fan. Immediately the check light went on. Back to Pepboys, service manager said check was P0501 and was a transmission speed sensor that couldn't be related to the filter mess.
Last night I found the Hyundai forum and I read in a post that this is a wheel speed sensor that would be located in the right front wheel and well not far from the cabin filter. Is it possible that the debris from the fan/filter collision has affected this speed sensor? Or is this just a very untimely coincidence?
I know nothing about automobiles. What I should do next and thereafter? Is it safe to drive this car as usual until the problem is fixed?
I have a 2002 SF GLS/LX (?) with 2.7 L V6 2WD (60,000 miles) and it started to apply the ABS brakes in a random manner. Found out it was caused by a broken front wheel tone ring. So, I pulled the ABS fuse under the dash and it stopped the brake problem. Drove it today to pick up some wood and now the check engine light has come on.
My neighbor has an OBD scanner and he plugged it in and said I have a P0501 code and a P1529 code, but he didn't know what they meant. What they mean and are they related to me pulling the fuse under the dash? Did I pull the wrong fuse? Is there another fuse somewhere that I should have pulled?
I keep getting the same code for the check engine light of P0128. I have replaced the thermostat twice and the ECT sensor already. I do know know what else I can do for getting this fixed. I have checked the fans and they are working correctly. I have also checked to make sure there is nothing wrong with the head gasket. My car does not over heat, but it does take forever for the temperature gauge to rise. This is for a 2006 Hyundai Elantra. What else I can do?
View 2 RepliesI own an 04 Hyundai Elantra with around 196,000 miles on it, and have run across a problem I haven't had to deal with before. A few days ago, my check engine light came on while driving. I didn't really notice much, but when I started it again it began idling roughly. I got it home and pulled the code, which was P0341 (camshaft position sensor). This isn't the first sensor I've had go on the car (I replaced an oxygen sensor and throttle position sensor a couple years ago), however I ran into two problems:
1. How likely is it that it's the sensor that's bad as opposed to something like the timing belt or VVT adjustment?
2. Since the sensor isn't horribly expensive, I decided to try replacing it, but I can't get any socket to fit on the bolt that secures it. I've heard it's a 10mm, but nothing seems to fit snugly. Maybe there's just so much crud and corrosion that it's ruined the head. I tried using an extraction socket, but no luck.
I just got this very nice Elantra 04 with 64k on it. Yesterday suddenly I got the check engine light on. Today I went to Auto zone and they have checked my car and it showed code P2626. But there are more than a few suggestions about what could be. I don't know what to do. See the attachment below.
View 1 RepliesI recently had the engine light come up on my Hyundai Elantra 2003. I read the code with my cheap little code reader with the torque lite (free) app on android. It threw the P0128 code which means a faulty thermostat.
Here's the web link to all the details on the code: [URL] ....
I have checked the coolant level and its good. The strength of the coolant is good to -40 Celsius. The engine fan is not running at all. I recently changed the thermostat. I'm leaning towards faulty ECT. The car takes forever to blow hot air too. It has done weird readings in the past with the temperature gauge in the cab.
I just bought a infrared temperature reader of Amazon and want to check the temperature where the water comes out of the engine past the thermostat and compare it to the reading on the torque app readings. I'm thinking it won't match.
I bought an 04 elantra a few weeks ago. The check engine light is now on and I get code P0420 listed twice with my code reader. I have replaced the downstream O2 sensor and reset the codes only for them to return again. It is my understanding that this is going to be a convertor problem. My question is that from the research I have done it looks as though this car has two converters. One at the exhaust manifold and then another in the tailpipe. Which one is going to be the most likely causing my Check engine light to come on. Or do I need to replace both converters.
View 5 RepliesAutoZone provided this code for my check engine light: P0010.
Definition: Intake camshaft position actuator circuit open
Explanation: ECM has detected a low voltage on the VCT circuit
Probable Cause: 1) Open or short circuit condition on the VCT circuit; 2) failed VCT solenoid
Is there a part I can replace myself that can fix this, or is this a dealer repair?
I have a 2003 Elantra GLS. I am intermittently Check Engine light and error code is P0113 - Air Intake sensor issue. I can't locate where the sensor is. I don't see any wire coming of the tubing that connects the air filter to the engine.
View 18 Replies2004 Elantra AT ... 6 months ago top of the radiator cracked caused it to overheat and blow the head gasket and warp the head. Repaired that and compression is fine now. It ran great for 4 months but now it randomly stalls. at or near idle. Seems to do it more at operating temp rather then cold. Occasionally the check engine light will pop on and the code reads (random misfire). It acts just like it has been shut off. But immediately restarts.
View 3 RepliesIn the last month, my car has had an awful time starting on 2 different occasions. The first time it ran really rough for about 1 minute then was ok. The second time was the same but the engine light came on. Took it to an out of town dealer and he said it showed a misfire code but could never find anything else and all looked OK. Spark plugs?
View 4 RepliesMy Girlfriend just got a 2003 Hyundai Elantra and everything was running great on it the first month she had it BUT the check engine light was on.. After about a month she called me up while driving and said that the check engine light was blinking and the car would hardly move. So I got to the car and looked at it and I noticed the oil filter was a little loose so I tightened it good this time and added a little bit of oil. It actually moved but it would hesitate. So we had it towed to a shop and they read the codes from the check engine light and told us it was leaking oil from the motor some where (not specific) and it also needed a new O2 sensor.
So I replaced the catalytic converter underneath the car and also a new sensor along with a new set of spark plugs. It ran alot better and I left it at that. Now about a week later she was coming home and noticed that when she turned left or right that the battery light and brake light on the dash came on. She drove it home and when she turned in the driveway the car went dead. It started right back up and we got it to the house and left it over night. I went out this morning and again it started right up. but when I lifted the hood I noticed the belts on the pulleys were all spinning very slowly. I'm not sure if it could be a timing chain or if it just needs new pulleys.
Elantra GT 2003 ... I had engine check light on and OBD 2 code reader showed DTC P1529 and P0705. I erased the codes to see if they comes back and one month later I have same codes back. P0705 indicates Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction, so probably I should check range sensor. How the range sensor looks alike and where to find it. Where can I find it?
View 1 RepliesI just bought a used 2004 Elantra that has 97,000 miles on it. When I took the vehicle out for a test drive it was smooth and quite. That was on Monday its now Saturday less than 300 miles later and the check engine light came on and it is having serious hesitation issues?! I am going to take it back where I purchased it from on Monday when they open but in the meantime I would like to know if its could be something simple?
View 14 RepliesMy check engine light came on in my 2005 Elantra. During the course of trying to find out why I realized that my transmission fluid was a little low. I went to Walmart and got a bottle of the multi vehicle fluid the auto counter man said it needed. I did come online to check to see if that was the right fluid before putting it in and see that evidently the specs are very specific for what type of transmission fluid to use.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 standard Elantra GT. I had to get an emissions test and the CEL light will not stay off. My garage replaced two valves in the fuel tank and the neck to the tank and have done numerous "smoke tests" but can't find the leak. Now they are saying there is something wrong with the computer. They got it to stay off long enough to pass the test, but the light's on again. I see that there was a recall issued because of the cracked exhaust manifold, I think I had the catalytic converter replaced up at the cottage.
View 4 RepliesHave an 01 elantra as a second car and it's great. Just recently tho the check engine light came on and I've got a few codes that make sense since there has been some odd issues with it in the past month or so.
02 sensor CKT bank 1 sensor 2 (slow response)
shift solenoid D malfunction
shift solenoid C malfunction
shift solenoid B malfunction
Trans range circuit malfunction (PRNDL input)
So I know the 02 sensor needs to be replaced, that's fine. I'm more concerned about the rest of the codes because when cruising around 40mph the car tries to shift to 4th gear or something like that, it will bog down because the rpm is too low (maybe its overdrive, not sure).
That's a minor issue but has been there since we got the car over the summer, the bigger issue is the last couple of days, i've noticed that when driving the car around the city, slow down - turning - and then accelerating the engine/trans will buck harshly a few good times before it smoothens out, my guess is the gear change didn't go well.