Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Car Died After Replacing The Battery
Feb 20, 2016
I have a used 2002 hyundai Elantra gt that I've owned since the 4th. I bought this car and everything was fine but I had to put a new battery in it because the previous owner was taking hers. A week after replacing the battery the car died, I thought maybe it was a bad battery so I replaced that one also and the car ran for about 2 days and then died again. I replaced the alternator last Monday and again the car ran until this past Thursday. I took the alternator back and had it tested and it failed. So I went to a different shop and had an alternator tested before purchasing it and it passed. Put the alternator in but the car won't stay on longer than 30 min.
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I wanna know if I can take a regular car battery 500-600 cca to replace the old aux battery.
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I bought a new battery for my passat 2001 1.8t, installed it last night car turned on fine. Today turned on fine again I took a ride to the store when I came back the car did not turn on. I go a jump nothing, but the battery had plenty of juice. Lights, radio everything turns on. When I turn the key it doesn't crank at all, and all the dash lights come on. I noticed the alarm does not sound when I manually lock the door. I bought a battery for my keyless remote and noticed the alarm doesn't turn on that way either, nor do the locks function with the remote. Could it possibly have to do with the alarm being deactivated?
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I pulled the traction battery...remanned it with great success computer very happy with results... drove it for a week. Took it to Walmart to have oil changed... Got in car , started fine...new oil made motor even smoother....then in 200 yards at traffic light , motor died with unusual sound... pulled over and restarted...but would die. Lights all over dash on.
made it back to oil bay...engine would not restart.
pushed inside and would start and then die... then was rattling when dying
checked aux battery with testers , both indicated dead cell 10.25 volts
tried to substitute a new battery via heavy jumpers... got it to start then die..,..then no try at all
I have read forums ,,,that indicate after 3 tries on a dead aux battery , computer will immobilize it
Have tried replacing with a new lawn tractor battery .but seems the car is immobized . Read codes with Mini VCI, and was able to clear all codes but the immobilizer code.
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Our 02 Elantra GT died and would not restart. When we tried jumping the battery, the car would not even attempt to turn over. What we did get was a noise from this part, which I cannot find labeled in any diagram that I've found, both in my owner manual and online.
02 elantra gt.jpg
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So my 2005 elantra gls has been having overheating problems. A few weeks ago, it overheated one day driving around town for about 30 minutes. I kicked on the heater and made it home. I went out the next day and didn't see any problems. Everything went fine for two weeks, then yesterday the problem happened again. I read about the thermostat often failing, so I did some research on that and replaced it today.
For replacing the thermostat, I followed the lower hose and found the housing, removed it and took out the old thermostat. Removed the old gasket, cleaned around the connection, dried it off. Then I put the new thermostat in , put some gasket sealer down and putthe new gasket on. Finally, put some more sealer on the outside of the gasket and put the housing back on.
After replacing it and immediately turning on the car, I got a High Oil Temp code. I cleared the code and let the car idle for while. After about 15 minutes I went for a drive around the neighborhood and then took it out on the highway for about 10 minutes. It started overheating by the time I got home. I turned it off and when starting it again I get the High Oil Temp code.
Is it possible that I didn't do something correctly with the thermostat. If not, what else could I look for and could I have bumped/damaged the oil temp sensor?
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra 2.0 5spd manual GT with 90k miles. I just bought the car 2 weeks ago. The previous owner claims he did regular maintenance on it. He said the timing belt and water pump were done around 65k miles but didn't have paperwork on it. Has brand new tires. Battery is a year and a half old. I just replaced the spark plugs and plug wires a few days ago just because I don't know when the last time the previous owner changed them. 3/4 showed normal wear and were probably needing to be replaced. One of them (the one all the way to the drivers side) had a decent amount of corrosion built up in the wall leading down to the spark plug and then around the fitting for the 5/8 socket had quite a bit of corrosion around it to. The end of the plug looked like the rest of the plugs however. Before I installed the new plug I cleaned it up. As far as I know there isn't any other mechanical issues. He said he had the clutched replaced too. Which I find a little odd because it doesn't even have 100k miles on it yet and if it wasn't driven like a race car, that clutch should last a lot longer I would think.
My girlfriend was driving it home from work today and it died on her when she stopped at the off ramp of a freeway. I showed up and pushed the clutch pedal down as hard as I could and it fired right up. However, I walked away then she called me back because she couldn't get it to accelerate after that. Unfortunately I didn't actually try to drive it at that point which was stupid so it's possible she just didn't have it in gear all the way however it appeared that she did. It then shortly after died and hasn't started since. I'm getting power to everything else in the car including headlights and some lights and everything else I can think of. It won't even attempt to crank. It just does nothing when I try to turn it over.
I believe a few people recommended changing the crankshaft sensor. I have read that if the crankshaft sensor goes bad it will have the problem I am currently facing. At this point I'm assuming my girlfriend just didn't have it in gear and that's why it couldn't accelerate because if that wasn't the case, then that sounds to me like it's slipping and the clutch needs to be replaced. Anyways, other than the crankshaft sensor, I am thinking possibly the starter or alternator. I know it has a MAP instead of a MAF sensor and I know where it is but I'm not sure if that would cause this issue because I figured it would at least turn over. If it was the alternator if the batteries were dead I would charge them and if it died again that would be a strong indicator it was the alternator. But the batteries didn't really read low and I threw them on the charger anyways and it said it was fully charged shortly after I did that, and then I tried starting it again and still nothing. So right now I'm leaning towards the starter or this crankshaft sensor. My buddy said to take a screwdriver to the starter and try to jump it but how exactly to do that to test it. I have read multiple things online for other vehicles that the crankshaft sensor being bad will cause the car to not start.
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I have a 2001 Echo sedan that was given to me. It has sat unused for several months. The radio and Acc lights worked, but the car wouldn't start and the battery would drain very quickly when not in use. It sat for a few more weeks, and then I replaced the battery, now the radio will not turn on at all (everything else is fine).
I checked all the fuses, and they are good (though, not the ones on the radio itself). I will be replacing this with an aftermarket stereo anyway, I just want to make sure it is the radio that's the problem, and not something else in the car. From reading, it seems that it could be an anti-theft function, for which a code would need to be entered to unlock the stereo, but nothing is displayed on the screen at all when the car is on, not "SAFE" nor "SEC". There may be a certain button combo I need to hold in order to bring up the code prompt, but what those are, and the ones I have tried haven't worked. The radio is just an AM/FM Model #: A51408 (image attached).
So do you think I only need the code, something else might be wrong, or the radio just coincidentally died? No mention of a code is made in the manual.
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I bought my 2002 prius with 120000 miles. Last night it died with the main battery light and triangle of death on. I haven't taken it to a dealer to have the codes checked out you, but will do it soon. My daughter was driving it when it happened and said the car started shuttering and died. She was able to drive it a few feet at a time before it would die again. Does this sound like a HV battery problem? I will be digging into it tonight.
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Had an issue with the negative cable n had to replace the bolt n nut. Since then its been making weird noises under the dash n under the hood even when the key is off. Sounds like something moving around under there almost but i know there is nothing. Also making buzzing noise every 30 minutes or so for a few then stops. Separate noises n 2 separate issues tho
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I have replaced the alternator and battery has good clean connections and cables. I have pulled the fuses for the interior lights and radio and alarm and it still keeps dying. The battery will be dead randomly could be overnight could be a few days...
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2001 Elantra, Going good now apart from the fact its draining the battery slowly overnight when powered off, I've hooked up an amp meter with everything powered off and still its drawing around half an amp, Is there any known faults that could cause this or any tricks for finding this kind of fault or do i have a hunt on my hands?? Not sure if this is related or not but when driving an intermittent clicking sound can be heard from inside the driver door.
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I replaced the front brake pads the same method as a traditional car. (Popped out caliper. Pushed piston in. Put new pads in). I did not pump the brakes after installation (forgot to do so).
I drove off to test drive. A block later as I approached a stop sign, I smelled something similar to burning brakes (this might have been some of the oil I spilled when I added oil just before I left). Went to the next stop sign 100 yards away and was able to stop. Made a slow left turn and MFD displayed a warning and ABS (and maybe other ones too) light came on. I pulled over. I don't remember if the car shut itself or if I turned it off.
Now, I can not get the car started. Had car towed home with wheel lift tow truck.
Tried the following:
- Press brake, push Start: Car appears to power up then shuts down immediately. Lights appear on dash, then go out. The squares around P,N,D,R,B are the last ones to go out.
- Press start to go into ACC mode: Radio and clock power up without problems. Pressing start again results in same symptom above.
- Tried to read code with ODBII scanner: all I get is "ERROR". Appears that it's not linking.
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I am having a mysterious electrical problem with my 2004 Elantra. The radio and clock light come on over night running the battery down. It started last winter. I replaced the radio in the spring and the problem went away, so I thought the problem was solved.
This past week the temperature got very cold at night for the first time since I replaced the radio, and the problem happened again. The next morning I drove the car for a few miles, came home, turned the car off, and the radio and clock light turned off as they should. I drove the car several times during the day and everything worked ok. I checked the car at midnight, and everything was still ok. The next morning the radio and the clock light were on again. This has occurred again each day for the last 2 days.
So it appears the electrical problem has something to do with the car being cold over night. How to resolve this problem - besides moving to a warmer climate.
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I tried to jump my phaeton and it would click but not completely turn over and i absolutely cant get it to start. the radio, lights, windows, and things of that nature are still working. So i need to know how to replace the battery i.e. (disconnecting it and can i replace it with a battery from an auto store?) If not, how much should i expect to spend and what else could it possibly be??
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Searched and found you tube video to get battery out but doesn't work on my fob. Mine slides open and once opened can't find battery, Vw shop if closed, can't lock or unlock doors?
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I have replaced the battery, the alternator is good. I turn the key ignition on and NOTHING. All lights turn on and go off after a few seconds. No clicking noise. It turns om quickly when it is jumped.
I can re enter car a few times, but after a day or so the same problem. What can I check to solve this problem.
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I have recently purchased a 1973 dodge sportsman motorhome. I went to change the battery because the one in it was too small. After replacing the battery I have no power to anything at all and it wont even try to crank. When I put the new battery in I noticed a smaller red wire with a flat plug on one end hanging loose. Where does this go and what is it for? the new battery has full juice but I have no power to anything. No lights no radio....nothing!
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2011 Toyota Prius Two, not II,smart key device (FOB) is not funational (can not open doors, etc) after replacing battery, and now how to fix, re-sync, etc?
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Codes indicate bad battery block 10. One of the cells in block 10 had lower voltage than any other cell in the battery. Ordered new cell and replaced it. The 12V battery was never disconnected, but the battery ECU was disconnected to allow it to be moved out of the way for bolt access.
After reassembling the battery with the replaced cell, the no-load voltage of the battery is 215V. The car powers up with the alarm indicators still on (as expected) but putting the car in drive and pressing the accelerator has no effect. I double checked my connections. The HV relays are not being energized. Do the codes need to be reset before the car will move?
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I left the lights on last night in our Santa Fe, and drained the battery.
Took the battery out and up to O'Reilly and they recharged it for me on their charger. When re-installing the battery the car alarm goes off as soon as I attach both battery cables. Turning the key in the ignition doesn't kill the alarm.
How do I reset the alarm and shut it up?
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