Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Camshaft Sensor Location And Timing
Jun 8, 2016
I have a 01 Elantra and my daughter has a 02. Both cars have the camshaft sensor at the front (timing belt) end of the engine. My daughters car is a early model with a 01 engine in it. My understanding is that later 02 engines moved the camshaft sensor to the ignition coil end of the cylinder head. My question is did the timing remain the same so that if I put a 01 engine in a late 02 body and spliced the sensor in would it work correctly?
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I just had a ton of maintenance done on my 2003 Elantra. Spark plugs & wires, timing belt, drive belts, water pump, replaced coolant and replaced the transmission fluid. The spark plugs are NGK platinum as recommended in my handbook. As soon as the mechanic started the car after the tuneup, the engine light came on with a cam shaft sensor code. He said it went off on its own.
The engine light came back on when I started the car. There's also a major loss of power after coming to a stop. I have to floor it to get it to go anywhere above 20 mph after a stop.
The mechanic said that when he replaced my water pump the liquid splashed all over everything and he thinks he might have gotten something wet that shouldn't have gotten wet and that all will be fine after it dries.
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I am new to Hyundai. I just picked up a 2003 Elantra and I'm doing a couple fixes to it. When I got it, the engine light was on and the code displayed said it had a bad camshaft position sensor. Is this a common issue with the car and is it an easy fix?
Also, I just installed new brake pads and a new battery. Now the battery and brake lights are on, although I know I didn't break anything. Could installing a new battery cause the two lights to come on?
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Does my 1993 ford explorer sport 4.0 L V6 engine have a camshaft sensor and if so where is it located?
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I have been getting a P0011 error code. Changed the OCV but the code continues. I'm going to try replacing the CMPS but am not quite sure of the location on the 2007 Sonata GLS. Looking for any pics of the location or a description?
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Where the camshaft position sensor is on a Mazda Protege5 2003. I can't seem to find any information about this particular car.
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Have a 2002 Ford Explorer 4.0 6cyl. w/ around 150K
I recently started hearing a little chirping noise when starting from cold. The rate of the chirping increases with the rpms (reving in neutral or when speeding up while driving). The sound usually goes away after things warm up.
Doing some research, the most suggested cause for such chirping is something called a Camshaft Position Sensor. Information mentions that this item can either need lubrication or to be replaced.
I was going to try lubrication first....then if the problem persists...replace.
My biggest issue is locating it on a 2002 4.0 Explorer (4 door, 4wd). I've read different reports for different Year models (mostly 97-2001)...which often include pictures. But I can't find ANY pictures for the 2002 4.0
QUESTION: Where it is located on my 2002 6cyl model? I read one account of it being on top of the driver's side valve cover....and I DO see an item in that location secured by one bolt..and it does have an electrical wiring harness attached....but I'm not sure...and have not seen any photos that look like my engine.
I've attempted to upload a picture of what I think maybe be the sensor (circled on red).
I've also come across an item called a "CRANKshaft position sensor".....are these different items, and, if so, does the crankshaft p.s. also "chirp" when needing lubrication or replacing ?
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The electrical connector to the camshaft sensor on my 2003 Santa Fe 2.4 engine has disintegrated so badly (I think due to engine heat) that I need to find a replacement. I have already repaired this connector several times with superglue and it has now reached the point where it is just no longer repairable. (same thing happen to a person of this forum back in 2008)
However, this connector cannot be purchased on it's own, according to the hyundai agent, we need to replace the entire wiring harness.
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02 Santa Fe 2.4L/ automatic/2 WD. I replaced the fuel filter (only) and have had a nightmare ever since. It takes multiple tries to start, running a little longer each time. When it will finally stay running, only the most delicate of throttle feathering will allow any RPM's to be built up. Any attempt to do otherwise will result is sputtering, bucking and other unhealthy behaviors until the throttle is closed. It also gives off the smell of running rich.
I borrowed a scan tool and got P0136 and P0141, which I expect since the O2 sensor wiring was cut in two by the heat shield shortly after my daughter bout the vehicle. It also is giving me the P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit code. I had replaced the CMPS and its connector a couple of month ago. I replaced the sensor again to no avail. I have checked the Orange/Black wire from the connector to the ECM and it reads 0 ohms. I get battery voltage at the connector on the Blue supply wire but only get 1.86 to 2.0V when I check the signal with the engine running.
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Don't know the location of the MAP sensor for a 2008 Elantra 4-dr (HD)? I'm reading a DTC P1100, which indicates a manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor malfunction. The Haynes manual refers to this only being necessary for the previous model Elantra.
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My santa fe is throwing a vss code. I was trying to replace it but was not sure exactly where it was. Is it the one right under the air filter box or is that a crankshaft position sensor or some other one?
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I'm trying to locate the MAF sensor on my 2001 LC accent. I can see the air cleaner box, the tube which T's off to the surge tank, and then it goes straight into the throttle body. On the hmaservice website, it shows a MAF sensor between the air cleaner box and the surge tank (or "resonator"). I don't have that! There's concertina tube going straight from the throttle body to the air cleaner box (with T off). Am I just missing a part?? There don't *seem* to be any unused harness connectors lying idly around the place!
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I have a 04 jetta bbw model engine with timing belt failure. while trying to replace and get camshaft back in time i cannot find a timing mark on camshaft gear as usual.
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My 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe V6 is giving out a P0118 code, and the "freeze-frame" data reports a -40F for the coolant temperature. That doesn't make sense so perhaps the sensor is faulty or perhaps the sensor connector is loose?
I'd like to take a look at the coolant temperature sensor but I cannot find it. I have scoured hmaservice, hyunda-forums but all the various pics are still not clear enough for me to actually find the sensor. I have seen all the online pics from Hyundai but I can't get my head around exactly where the sensor is - the pics are either too zoomed in or so many things have been disconnected for the purposes of taking the picture I can't get my bearings.
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This is a 2000 Passat GLS 1.8 turbo that is in great shape and loaded. It recently had all new tires, brakes, belts, and tune up 98,000 miles. Now the not so good, after died while driving it was taken to the garage and the mechanic told us it needed a new camshaft and timing chain. I didn't have the money to start dumping into the car so I am stuck in limbo.
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Changed the timing belt. Used the red mark up top and the cut in the block on the lower one to get TDC. Changed everything with new parts. Double checked the marks after the belts were on (rotated by hand through two full turns and checked to see if the marks were in the same spot). I followed the write up that was posted here by U95.
Anyway, the car won't start. It tries cranking, but won't actually start. There is fuel and the battery should be good to go. There shouldn't be any Fuel/Compression/Air issues.
I guess my question is: If the timing belt is not tightened enough, would that keep it from firing?
Also, in trying to crank it by key every thing sounds normal (no knocks or pings or valves getting bent sounds) and turning by hand gives just the little bit or normal resistance but spins nicely.
I'll probably take the battery to get it load (I used my tender to try and start it as well, didn't make a difference) tested tomorrow and then try the starter (shouldn't be bad though, only 60k on the car). Otherwise I'll have to teardown and start over.
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I have a 2014 es300h with 7400 miles. Recently the check engine light came on and the dealer diagnosed an oil control valve and something to do with camshaft timing. They also said something about removing valve covers to clean? Is this a potential sludge issue? They kept he car and gave me a loaner. They also opened a TSA with Lexus. My question is this: is this not incredibly unusual to have this issue with a new car? It almost makes me want to get rid of it before something else happens.
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My Santa Fe indicated P0715 for input speed sensor problem. I purchased both sensors and based on forum input I removed the air box and battery to access senors. Output speed sensor is easy to see and access. I am having a problem locating the input sensor. I see wires going to a sensor under both the main wiring harness and shift cable. Is that the location of the input sensor? If so how do you move the wiring harness and shift cable to allow access? If not, where is the input speed sensor located? The Santa Fe is 2001 V6 2.7L.
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I've got a 2001 f150 XLT and I've checked the Haynes manual and searched Google but I'm having no luck.
I'm trying to locate the sensor for the Automatic Head Lights.
I had a small "spill" on the dash at night and immediately the lights started to blink and click. It fixed itself but sometimes it will do a weird little "click, click noise" change thing. I would like to clean the sensor or ensure it's not partially blocked.
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I have a problem with my 2005 elantra making a noise that sounded like it was coming from the cam timing chain. since it is still under the 10 year 100,000 mile warr. I brought it to my dealer. I had a P0011 code for advance timing also that keeps popping its ugly head. Dealer said that the chain would not be covered under warranty because of oil sludge and a faulty oil control valve. I went to remove the ocv from the head and when I removed the bolt the solenoid came off without the stem I tried an easy-out and managed to rotate it approx 1/8" but no luck getting it free to pull out.
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I recently replaced the timing belt, tensioner, and roller in my car. Today I became concerned that I hadn't tightened the tensioner properly so I did a quick check (it was). I also noticed the timing belt felt a bit loose, so I tightened it to what I thought was about 1/4" deflection with 5lbs pressure—not what that feels like in that tight space.
When I started the car there was a noticeable whining sound. Before I changed the belt there was a slight whining sound (but there was no whine after I changed the belt). So I loosened the belt a bit and there's now a slight whine. I feel like the whine shouldn't be there but it's hard for me to imagine that the belt should be any looser since I can move it 1/4" inch without much effort.
So, should I be tightening the belt to the point where the whining is gone, or is a slight whine ok?
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