Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Caliper Pistons Would Not Retract To Fit Over The Pads
Oct 7, 2013
I changed the rear brake pads on my 2002 Elantra and the caliper pistons would not retract to fit over the pads. After 11 years of weather exposure the pistons were frozen. I removed the calipers, soaked the pistons with WD-40 and penetrating oil and heated the housing with a hair dryer. Doing this periodically for a day I got the pistons to break free. I removed the pistons for inspection and they were severely corroded. I ordered two rebuilding kits on line which included all seals and pistons.
The pistons are threaded and screw into a threaded rod inside the housing. Should I thread the pistons in until they bottom out, or should I turn them out until they touch the inner brake pad?
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I need to do a brake job on the front of my 04 Elantra, how to reset the caliper piston. I've tried the traditional c-clamp method but can't get the clamp to grip well on the non-pad side because of the caliper shape.
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One of the pistons in my driver side (UK) front brake caliper is sticking, so I've bought a second hand caliper just to fix the problem until I come to sell my pri in a month or so.
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2001 F250 SD diesel. Brakes have been working fine with no pulling. They just started to squeal recently so I knew it was time for some new pads.
I'm having a problem that seems to plague me often when I try to replace disc brake pads. I can't get the twin pistons to go back in to allow room to get the new, thicker pads in.
I unscrewed the cap to the master cylinder and used a spreading tool (that came in a brake kit from Advance Auto Parts) to compress the pistons. No movement.
I put a lot of force on it. No piston movement.
I unscrewed the bleeder screw and tried again. No movement.
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I have a 2005 chevy malibu maxx. The front driver side brake caliper does not retract unless i open the bleeder screw. if I leave it overnight it will retract until i have to use it a couple times then ill have to open the bleeder screw. I've been told if the piston retracts when i open the bleeder then the caliper is OK. What i should look for? (It does have ABS).
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I pulled into my driveway after a 30 minute drive and smelled burning brakes. The right front was the culprit so I took a garden hose and cooled it down. The next day I remove the caliper and one of the pistons fell apart. So I need a new caliper and trying to decide if I buy after market or go with Motorcraft? I think the rotor, caliper, and pads are original since I the rotor is stamped Ford and the caliper bracket has TRW and Ford markings.
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What is the proper procedure in changing the brake pads without unbolting the caliper?
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I read here somewhere you should NOT use caliper pin grease or any other grease for that matter on the pad sliders; either on the bad or the cup itself. I think it was Smoke. I have been doing this for quite a while and need to know why it should not be done?
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I need to replace the rotors and calipers on my 04 accent gl. I noticed there are 5 bolts on the back of the caliper. I know one is for the flex hose connection. Then there are 2 big hex bolts closest to the dust plate. Are those for the caliper mounting bracket? and if so will they need to be removed? Then the final two are on the outer edge, however the top one is rounded and rusted, is this normal? The one on the bottom is a hex. So what needs to be removed to change the rotors and pads? I also notice that there are two screw holes in the rotor, that I guess snug it in place against the hub, however the screws are missing. Is this bad? are they needed? and if so can I get new ones?
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Replacing remaining three calipers on my 2006 F-350 2wd as a preventative measure after I had a drag on the left front. Passenger side front being difficult. Caliper won't slide off pads. I believe pins are stuck but it doesn't seem they've got the caliper stuck - appears that I can't get pistons to stay compressed enough to clear pads. Caliper has some wiggle on pads - just not enough.
I tried multiple C-clamp iterations but can't get there just yet. I'd rather not fool with the bracket and removal won't fix my problem, just allow me to work it on the bench. I do have a replacement caliper, so damaging it to get it off is an option. I have sprayed Kroil into the piston seals in a Hail Mary when I pick this up tomorrow.
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03 f350 4x4. New front calipers and pads.
Wondering if there's a 'trick' to getting the front brake pads into the caliper . Those damn springs kept popping out. I'd get three of the four ends into place in the pad holes then one would pop out while I'm trying to get the fourth in.
After about a hour of trying every different way that I could think of, another set of hands came by and with four hands holding things in place, it finally did the trick.
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I am a few DAYS into a project changing my ball joints on my 2001 F250SD 4wd.
Latest issue is I can't get the brakes back on. One of the pistons was pressed out making replacing the calipers onto the rotor impossible. Fiddling with things has only made it worse.
The higher piston is stuck extended, and the other piston doesn't even budge.
The truck is our only vehicle, and I have been working on it since Tuesday night. It looked like it was going to be done today, but I can't put it all back together now.
That piston will not move. I've tried opening the bleeder and taking a clamp to it but all I get it a few more drops of fluid, no visible movement.
A while ago it looked like this. I got it to move in a little, but it is firmly stuck.
I'm wondering if I can pull it all the way out and clean/sand polish it. Can I use a quick-clamp on the rubber section of brake line to isolate the calipers so I can pull the piston out without draining all the brake fluid from higher in the system? And what do I do about the other piston that doesn't seem to be moving at all? Grab with big pliers and twist/pull?
Some of us just have a knack for finding layer upon layer of problems on projects...
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Last week I replaced my stock 2016 Elantra's brake pad's with Wagner Thermoquiet another forum user recommended, came with new hardware (seats), however not new 'plates' (that are on the side of the pads), so I had to reuse the old ones which were quite dirty/ old looking. Anyway, I understand due to the old rotors being on there, I'm going to hear some unusual noise when letting off the brakes until broken in, however, squealing when I press the brakes? (Only happens at low speeds, like drive through window.) I greased all the metal components that make contact with the caliper. I NEVER experienced squealing with the old pads, & these are "supposed to be quiet & more efficient". I'm going to take the wheels off & look at them tomorrow. What I can do?
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Brought my car for an oil change at 42000 km (26000 mi) and asked the dealership to check my brakes since I've been hearing a noise for the last 2 weeks. Ended up having to replace both rear disks and pads. Dealer said everything was seized up and that they were able to rescue my front brakes by doing brakes service on them.
Next day, the exact same thing on my girlfriend's 2012 Accent..! Dealer told me that brakes need to be serviced every single year to avoid this...! Really??? I never heard of that before and needless to say, I didn't expect to get a 500$ + bill on a new car...
I checked with my mechanic and he did inspect my brakes at 24000 km (14900 mi) as I asked him and that everything was working perfectly.
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My front right caliper does not work. was changed ( both sides) also hose from right side because it still did not work. Found that fluid gets from reservoir to abs but does not come out to front right wheel. Place air pressure from hose to abs, and runs fine, from reservoir to abs and runs fine from abs to out from abs to front right and air does not go in.
But when pressure goes from out of abs to in abs from reservoir air flows fine also. What is going on...
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ok, here's the story about my brake change on a 2012 elantra GLS. I changed my pads and rotors myself, he has done many brake jobs with little to no problems over he years. anyway, changed them on all four wheels and now on the drivers side there is a slight noise that happens sometimes. The noise happens once very rotation of the tire/rotor, not a constant noise. it sounds almost like the pads are hitting the rotor at a certain point and making a grind noise. the brakes seems to function properly and the noise happens only when rolling at slow speeds or when accelerating from a stop.
I have done everything properly, even used some caliper glue to hold the pads against the caliper. what my question is, is there anyway that the rotor is warped from the manufacturer? it sounds like it is warped and the pads hit it once every rotation. I have opened them up 3 times now to make sure everything is proper, even put it in drive jacked up with no wheel on it to see if its running smooth, of course it wont make the noise when jacked up.
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2001 Explorer sport trac. I had a shop install new front pads because I couldn't brake the caliper bolts loose. I noticed they didn't use any grease on the pads from what I can see, and there has been a quiet rubbing/squeaking sound coming from the wheels (mainly when pressing the brakes). I assume it's the brake pads/caliper parts that still need to be greased. I have the right kind of grease and I'm about to do it, but what parts of the pads/caliper assembly need to be greased?
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I am getting an occasional (though increasingly frequent) 'brake pad' noise from one or more of the rear brakes on my NHW11. Initially it would only manifest for half a minute or so per trip (and would disappear after some braking) but it is now more or less constant. It is a light 'rubbing' noise which you would expect from worn brake pads.
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I am going to have to change my brake pads (I am probably going to do the rear shoes as well). I was wondering if I should get my Toyota dealer to change the fluid as well. I have 116,000 miles on her. Lots of highway driving, and this is only the first replacement set, these pads last forever. The fluid has never been changed before.
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This is my second time posting for the same issue on a 2003 3.5L with 120,000+ miles. Rear driver side brake caliper is stuck again. I have replaced both rear calipers after the driver side stuck a few months back. So most likely the first time was caused by something else.
What else could be causing this? Brake line, master cylinder, or other? I did not replace any brake lines the last time this happened. Just calipers and pads.
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I have for the 4th time in a little over a year developed another issue with a rear caliper hanging up last year i ended up replacing both rear calipers with reman. from NAPA. 3 months ago i had to replace the right rear again. Now currently i am having the left rear starting to hang up again. I've done a fluid flush and everything. I'm kind of at a loss. I don't normally have this much trouble with brakes. Some of the symptoms that go along with this are a spongy pedal and inconsistent brake feel just like when you have air in a line.
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