Elantra XD (2001-06) :: CEL Won't Come On When Ignition Is First Turned On
May 15, 2014
01 Elantra, once warmed up to running temp starts to run like a pig & wont idle, has new plugs/leads.
Funny thing is there is no engine check light, in fact it doesn't even come on for the 6 seconds when the ignition is first turned on at all.
Secondly I have OBD2/ELM327 with scanpro but it doesn't connect to the ECU.
We put it into a shop & they claim they were able to connect to ecu but gave no codes which I find a bit strange.
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I have a 2004 Elantra GT, and for the past year it sometimes makes no attempt to start when the ignition key is turned. All the dashboard lights, radio, bells and whistles are fine, but once the key is turned to start nothing happens. There are no clicks or anything. Some dashboard lights stay on and I can hear the initial whirring under the hood from the electrical system.
I've replaced the battery, ignition wires, and plugs. This will happen very erratically. Then all of a sudden it will fire up like nothing was wrong. This is always over a several minute time span of trying and retrying to start. I took it to a mechanic but we can never replicate the problem while there.
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Today I came out of a store & my car started beeping the panic alarm. I don't carry the key fob with me, just a key. I unlocked the door, sat down, put the key in & turned the ignition. The lights all lit on the dashboard as normal but the car did not start. absolutely nothing. I was at a loss for what to do.
Fortunately, someone came out of the store & asked me if I needed a jump & explained what happened, and he said let me try something. He tried to start the car, then got out of it, locked the door, unlocked the door, sat back down & tried again. The car started right up.
The car is a 2014 Elantra SE with the Premium Package.
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I have a 2001 BMW 330i. The car has been a dream since the beggining but lately issues have risen to the surface. Today, when I turned off the ignition all the dashboard lights remained on. The keys in hand, lights off, nothing else on, but the dashboard was lit up light a christmas party. I recently recharged my battery, a problem, I think, caused by the cold temperatures. Other than that I have not noticed anything wrong ..
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2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 DOHC. Starting Problem. When the door is opened the interior lights come on, door dings, etc. As soon as the ignition is turned everything goes black all power is lost. Disconnect battery cable and reconnect, the open door again and the interior lights come on, door dings, insert key and turn, everything goes black, the car does not start. This cycle repeats over and over again every time the battery is disconnected and reconnected. I have replaced the battery, ignition switch. The starter was replaced last year. Why does power blackout, and car not start when the key is turned?
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Ok, so I'm working on a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, 93,000 miles. The vehicle runs great! So great that you cant get it to stop running!! The problem is intermittent and generally happens after the vehicle has been running for at least 3 minutes. I turn the key off and she keeps on running (not dieseling, but running at 340-450 rpms!) I have already removed the aftermarket remote start that was installed on the vehicle thinking that was the problem, it was not. Then I went to the ignition switch and unplugged that, also to no avail! I plugged my scan tool in and can communicate with the computer and view pids while the key is on. When I turn the key off, I should loose communication. When everything acting normal and the car actually shuts off with the key, I loose communication with the computer upon turning the key off. When I turn the key off and the veh. keeps running, I do NOT loose communication with the pcm. The only way to shut the car off is to step on the gas pedal. Otherwise it'll run at 400 or so RPM for an hour or so!!
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My wife's 2001 Gran Prix has a problem with the ignition switch, or related to the ignition switch. Intermittently (more frequently in warm weather or when the car's warm) the ignition switch can't be turned back to the 'off' position all the way, meaning the key can't be removed from the switch. We've heard from several mechanics that there are a couple problems that can cause this, and in fact had the ignition switch replaced which did not solve the problem. I understand there is a connection to the transmission or gear shift lever that may also be part of this problem in some way. There can only be so many solenoids, switches, connections, etc, related to this, I'd like to fix the problem and avoid spending money unnecessarily.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Sante Fe 2.4L that keeps blowing the ECU fuse under the hood when the ignition is turned on. We have replace the fuel pump and the inertia switch. I have tested the relay, ignition failure sensor, both coils and O2 sensor wiring.
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I noticed yesterday that my 2001 was stumbling when turning left. Later in the day, the CEL came on, and I retrieved a P0301 code. In both cases, I was driving around town, not cold but not fully warmed up, engine temp around 40-70 C.
I haven't done any further investigation, other than trying some different driving experiments. I've been able to recreate the problem several times starting out with a left turn when the car briefly runs on three cylinders. Going straight or turning right is fine.
Question: which cylinder is #1? My intent is to check the plugs and leads first, but since it's cold outside I'd like to focus my attention as much as possible on the problem area. I thought at first it might be fuel related because of the turning behavior, but on reflection, it feels more like an ignition issue.
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Here is my problem....the cooling fan will not come on, even with the A/C turned on. The A/C fan works fine. I've changed the fan for a new one and replaced the relay, and checked all the wiring, but nothing has changed. I've read other threads that have kind of the same problem and they mentioned the coolant temperature sensor. I don't have a problem changing it, but don't know where it is located.
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My 2002 Elantra GT has been turning off while driving. The radio, lights, and other accessories remain on. The car doesn't lurch but all of the dash lights come on like when you're first starting a car. I was able to restart the car after about 10 min the first time and 5 min the second time it happened. 1 week between episodes.
Brought it to the garage and they couldn't find a problem while letting it run for 30 min. Also, there are no error codes. What could be wrong?
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Just started having issues with my door chimes this morning.
Hopped in, started up, and now the door chime will not go until I take the key out of ignition. All doors are shut, seatbelt fastened. No lights on dash, no open doors.
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Engine runs very erratically and I got ignition failure codes on all cylinders plus mixture too lean code. 2 years ago I changed the gadget that sticks right into the middle of the engine and regulates the mixture and the issue disappeared. bought the part from rockauto. should I change sparks and ignition cables or order the same part again? Never changed the ignition cables and sparks.
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When I try to start my wife's '06, it takes a little bit longer to start than in the past (used to take only 2 turns or so, now it takes 3 or 4). When it does finally ignite, it's a rough ignition and then it goes to normal. Why this is happening?
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I have a 2003 Elantra that is squealing when turned on, it also does it when steering especially when turning right though much less when the car is moving.
You can check the video out to see what I'm talking about. The car had already been driven when I filmed this so no squeal when I first turn it on.
The power steering belt seem very tight, no wobbling, the alternator belt has more give but I can't tell whether it's too loose or not. The power steering fluid is dark, I don't know if that's normal or not and the reservoir has lots of dark-ish residue all over it. I'll have to look tomorrow during day light to see whether a hose may be leaking
Video is on youtube: [URL] ....
Just wondering what kind of fix the car needs, it's a clunker we drive on short distances but it's starting to squeal a lot , and the other day when one of us drove it it started to smell like burnt rubber, and there was even a bit of smoke coming out of the front hood, we haven't been able to replicate that so far. The oil is good, the oil cap is clean no gas smells.
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My main relay is chattering badly when my ignition is in the on position but not in the ACC position. All of my "dummy" lights are flashing with the chattering main relay. I have tried to replace both the Start and Main relay and I replaced the battery 3 weeks ago. I have checked the wiring and I do not see anywhere the wires could have been chewed by a mouse and everything appears to be connected. Checked all of the relays and fuses to make sure they were in tightly. Could this be the ignition?
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I'll provide as much info as possible concerning an all too common problem with these cars. The radiator (passenger side) fan will run for a few seconds when the AC is turned on, then it will shut off. It does not come on when the car is up to temperature. The AC condenser (driver's side) fan runs normally. Steps I have taken so far are as follows:
A. Replaced the radiator fan -- no joy.
B. Replaced the coolant temperature sensor -- no joy.
C. Replaced the thermostat -- no joy.
Coolant level is normal and there are no leaks in the system. The temperature gauge however, never rises above cold.
My questions are:
1. What are the next step(s) to solving the radiator fan problem?
2. Is there a separate sensor for the temp gauge, other than the one in the thermostat housing and if so, where is it located?
3. Since I live in AZ where it never gets very cold, I'd be perfectly fine with having the radiator fan run whenever the engine is running. Is there a way to wire it so it's always on with the ignition?
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My 2004 Elantra is having electrical problems. I left the keys in the ignition one night, and now systems within the car do not work. The car no longer responds to remote controls (lock/unlock). The lights in the cabin do not work. The digital clock and radio displays are blank. The gauges are also reading incorrectly when I start the car (all of them move up and freeze for a few seconds at 4000 RPMs, 70 mph, Hot Engine, then come back down to correct readings).
The car starts fine, and I have checked all fuses. I tried letting the car run to charge the battery, and also tried a jump start from another car to recharge the battery.
Remember, this all started when I left the keys in the ignition over night
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My girlfriend has a 2005 Accent and recently we went to go drive it and the battery was dead. I noticed that when we shut the car off the black LCD Odometer display was staying on the dash with the power shut off and no key in the ignition. I figured out which Fuse it was under the hood and pulled it. The odometer lcd turned off and we also lost all of the interior lights.. When I ran the car with the fuse pulled the Odometer LCD would display normally but somehow the battery is still managing to drain even with the Fuse pulled.. Any wiring diagrams for the fuse panel under the hood or if it could be a relay that is still drawing power when the car is shut off..
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I have an 02 Elantra GT. I was dropping off a friend who knows cars and went to turn around, turned the wheel to full lock to make the turn and heard a squeal. I asked my friend what it was and he said it was the P/S and I just needed to add some P/S fluid. I got some fluid and sure enough when I went to fill up the reservoir it was below to MIN line, not too much below but still below it. I filled up the fluid and didn't hear the problem for the rest of the day but this morning I heard the same noise when I was leaving for work. I figured the fluid had to work its way though but am not sure if there is something else I should check or do.
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While on my 20 mile commute my check engine light turned on, attached the code reader to the car and got codes P0422 and U0D00. Looked up the P0422 code to find "Caralyst efficiency below normal (bank 1)" I have a list of possible fixes but have no luck finding out about the U0D00 code. I notice I lose and a quart of oil every month and when I start the car, the first 5 seconds or so the engine revs to 4000 rpm.
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