Elantra XD (2001-06) :: CEL With Different Codes P2195 And P2414 For O2 Sensor
Feb 15, 2016
Its been cold here in CT for the past three days. It's been in the negatives... My engine light came on last night with a p2414 so I ran it, looks like front o2 sensor (could be a couple of things), so I cleared it and waited. Today it came back with p2195 and p2414. A different code for the same sensor. But my question is this. Before I replace the o2 sensor. Is there anything common for this car that would throw this code?
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Check engine light came on while driving home from work. The car seems to be running fine but I got the following codes p2195, p0420, p2096. I have a 2006 elantra with 184000 miles. Should I just replace the upstream oxygen sensor or is there a more likely problem? I rather not spend the money if this combination of codes is likely has a different cause but replacing the sensor appears to be the quickest and easiest solution.
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Both the P2195 (Oxygen sensor or A/F sensor stuck lean - bank 1 sensor 1) and P0031 (Oxygen sensor heater control circuit low - bank 1 sensor 1) were pulled on my 2009 LE (77K miles). Is it safe to assume that the upstream b1s1 sensor is the culprit?
I believe I've found the OE Denso part 234-9056 - is this the right one?
General question about O2 sensors - is it recommended to replace both the upstream and downstream at the same time, or is it not necessary to do that?
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So I just replace my Cat. Converter with all new sensors in them. I just replaced my spark plugs. (I'm knocking out these check engine light problems) and I think I'm getting close to the root as to why these other parts went bad. Why my o2 sensor would be stuck on "lean" ....
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2007 camry xle 4 cylinder engine, 2.4 liter I'm getting a P2195 code, which is the A/F sensor B1 S1. I have a few questions:
1. Any diagram of the location?
2. I've been trying to figure out the correct part number, so I can search for a replacement. I've found 4 or 5 different numbers already. What is the correct part number?
3. Should I only by the OEM part? Or do the aftermarket brands like Denso work?
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I have a 2006 Ranger 2.3l 4 cylinder that is have emissions problems the code the tech gave me was P2195 an I bought the o2 sensor just where it is, and the auto stores didn't have a manual for the year of my truck.
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Any resource that I can use to find the part number of the O2 sensor on my wife's 03 v6 Camry.
I have a check engine light, scanned by code scanner to reveal P2195. This OBD code is supposedly sensor 1, bank 1 "stuck lean" which is the upper O2 sensor on the left side of the engine (closest to radiator with transverse mounting).
So it should be easy to change if this is the issue but I'm having a hell of a time finding the right part number. Too many choices.
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I have a p2195 trouble code with my 2007 Toyota Sienna CE. This is O2 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Lean Bank 1 Sensor 1. I am assuming I'll need to replace this sensor. It's a little confusing but if I am reading my Haynes manual correctly, the repair goes as follows:
The sensor for 2007 and later models will be in the exhaust pipe after the catalytic converter. To remove it, it's necessary to remove the passenger seat, disconnect and snake the pigtail through the grommet in the car floor. Then, disconnect the O2 sensor from underneath the van and replace.
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I have a P2195 and P0171 ... 2006 Ranger 2.3 ... Drives fine but at idle..idle gets slower till it lopes. Changed O2 sensor,Cleaned air flow sensor,changed PCV valve, Can't find any leaks, could it be EGR...how do I check it ?
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Had my friends shop replace my passenger side exhaust manifold on my 2004 FX4. Two studs at the front broke flush and one other broke but was sticking out of the head. To get room they did the trick of unbolting the trans mount and the passenger side engine mount and moved the engine over. All is back together but started throwing the 53,132, 2195 and 2196 codes, engine seamed to run fine though. Before bringing it back in I decided to check for any simple things, vacuum leaks or connectors that might have been knocked loose. At first I thought this was a good candidate for a vacuum leak but it turned out to be a vent for the front hubs.
My next thought was that maybe the pass side upstream oxygen sensor got knocked during the work and was now shorting out. It is very tight on that passenger side! Truck has 102,000 miles so they were at the end of their lives. I decided to just replace all 4 with OEM units. I used one of the oxygen/mapp gas torches from the hardware store and a 7/8 in wrench. The drivers side was easy and I did not have to remove the drive-shaft like some write-ups discussed.
Although doing that would give plenty of room. Pass side downstream is fairly easy, upstream was a bit tougher. I took out the inner fender skirt and loosened the trans dipstick tube. That gave just enough room for my large hands to reach in and turn the connector so the sensor side of the plug faced out. I used a pick and fashioned a hook out of a coat hanger to pull the connector apart. That ended up being the hardest part. Putting a good amount of heat into the sensor bung quickly made all the difference in getting them out.
Here is what the upstream pass side sensor looked like. Could not see it from below or from the wheel well.
The codes are all gone now (were coming back after one drive before) so I think the sensor was the issue.
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I bought a 2001 golf gls 1.8T (AWW) about a month ago and it was running pretty bad, was throwing some codes, cylinder 1 misfire and some o2 sensor codes, I replaced the coil packs and spark plugs and then cleaned the MAF. It was still running bad ,rough idle and power loss. I figured it had to be some kind of vacuum leak, I replaced the PCV valve, cleaned the intercooler and put on a silicon TIP. Still had some rough idle and power loss, checked for vacuum leaks, using the good ole starter fluid method and found my intake manifold was leaking so I replaced that gasket. STILL rough idle and power loss, now I'm pulling codes for o2 sensor and a misfire in cylinder 3. My question is, should I replace my pre-cat o2 sensor or replace my MAF sensor? Or are there other things that should also be checked/replace.
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Still having problems with my 2.4l 2002 santa fe. At stand still the MAF readings are within range. At 2000rpm it reads 9.3 gm/s. the info I have says it should be between 7.89-9.83.
When driving along at 50mph, 5th gear, engine speed 2000rpm it reads approx. 25.0 gm/s. at 3000rpm it reads 48 gm/s. Is the MAF sensor faulty?
It is now not running very well with fault codes P0171(fuel system to lean) That code comes up whilst driving at speed. I also get P0172(fuel system to rich). I got that one whilst driving slowly in a car park.
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So my girlfriends's 2001 2.0 Golf (engine code AVH, 153k miles) began throwing codes for misfire on cylinder 4 and for the o2 sensor (post-cat) recently. I went ahead and replaced the spark plugs, wireset, and the coil pack. They were way overdue. The CEL went away for like 30 miles, and then came back. Now it's reading misfire on cylinder 3 and the same thing for the o2 sensor. What else it could be? Search is coming up blank, most people replaced the coil pack and the CEL went away.
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I am having a problem with my 2003 Santa Fe I have taken it to have the check engine light codes read and I have a code for the crankshaft position sensor, random misfires, something with gear 2 and 3 (not sure what it was exactly) it makes a loud noise when in 1st and 2nd gear when I shift out of 2nd the noise gets less and less until its gone and then does not come back until the car sits for a little while and cools down. Its running rough and does not have any power when accelerating. I had the timing belt changed a few weeks ago and it started running funny shortly after. I don't think the guy that did the timing belt knew what he was doing because I had to have someone go behind him and tighten the pulley.
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I replaced the purge valve a while back, i just replaced the ccv and gas cap. The light is still on. Could a bad Ftps cause both those codes? Do i possibly have cracked/bad lines?
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I am a new member and have a question regarding PO138 Bank 1 sensor2.
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I am getting a p0501 code (off my code reader) on my 2001 Elantra. I have already replaced the Speed sensor on top of the transaxle under the air filter. Driving into work today check engine light came back on and took to AutoZone. They are getting a P0501 code Sensor "A". They had no idea which sensor, sensor "A" was. I know there are 4 sensors on this car and have searched for other posts with no luck, all say replace speed sensor. Need to get this done to pass emissions.
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Engine runs very erratically and I got ignition failure codes on all cylinders plus mixture too lean code. 2 years ago I changed the gadget that sticks right into the middle of the engine and regulates the mixture and the issue disappeared. bought the part from rockauto. should I change sparks and ignition cables or order the same part again? Never changed the ignition cables and sparks.
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My 2005 Elantra GlS Hatch's CEL light has been coming on and off. Mostly on now, because of course it is 1 month away from needing emissions checked. I am getting 2 codes------ P2626 and P0139 . The first one is the upper O2 sensor and the second was is for the lower O2 sensor.
The problem is that I replaced the upper sensor a year ago because of the same CEL code. The lower sensor was replaced in 2009 ish under warranty. Why these O2 sensors are going bad so quick?
One of my guesses is that my wife only drives the car about 6 miles round trip to work and the car never reaches proper temperature. She never drives on the hwy but lately I've been driving it to work on the hwy and she drives our new 2013 Elantra. The 2005 only has 51,000 miles.
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Connected my obd2 to my car and found 3 fault codes 1 which repeated itself twice.. the codes are P0453 that repeated itself a couple times and the 3rd one is P0133.. I looked them up and see that one can be either bad grounding and also a bad oxygen sensor? and then the other mentions something about fuel and says something about fuel pressure sensor?
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I have a 01 Elantra and my daughter has a 02. Both cars have the camshaft sensor at the front (timing belt) end of the engine. My daughters car is a early model with a 01 engine in it. My understanding is that later 02 engines moved the camshaft sensor to the ignition coil end of the cylinder head. My question is did the timing remain the same so that if I put a 01 engine in a late 02 body and spliced the sensor in would it work correctly?
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