Elantra XD (2001-06) :: CEL Code P0340 - Slow To Accelerate And Severe Loss Of MPG
Sep 26, 2011
I have a 2005 hyandai elantra with 176k miles. ck eng light came on with P0340 cam shaft positioning sensor. I replaced it and cleared code and ck eng light came back with same code. So as last resort took it to dealership who replaced the wire from sensor to ecu and told me i had a bad ecu. I replaced it with a used one from a semi-reputable salvage yard (i mean i have used them several times with no issues). The code came back almost instantly. Symptoms of the car starts good cold within a few minutes it is very slow to accelerate and i have noticed a severe loss of MPG. I have also checked timing because i changed the belt in this process.
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I recently took my car to the Hyundai dealer who told me that my engine light was from a bad cam sensor (Fault Code = P0340). I bought the sensor from the Hyundai parts dealer and replaced it myself. After having the code erased, the check engine light comes back on (with the same code) when I turn the car off and turn it back on, after driving it for a while (30 minutes or more).
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My '02 Elantra would have a hard time starting up in the winter right after I filled the gas to full. Usually I would have to give it some gas to startup. After that, it didn't have problems starting up until I filled it again. This was only in the winter.
About a month and a half ago, it became really slow to accelerate. Since the O2 sensor light had been on constantly for a long time I never bothered to check it. Soon the car became really slow to accelerate and would lunge forward in spurts. The error codes I got were P0133 and the O2 sensor. I replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires, and this seemed to do the trick. The check engine light went away, the car sped up nice and quick. Also at that time, I put in some fuel injector cleaner.
The a couple weeks ago, P0133 and P0420 came back. It seems like the car is using up more gas than it should. There is a very minimal sluggish response when I push the gas. I have a spare ignition coil, but trying to find what it could be more specifically before I swap out more parts willy nilly.
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This car has turned into a bad dream. When it first starts in runs well for a mile or so until it warms all the way up. Then it goes into starvation mode and won't accelerate. Maybe a cough or two then it runs fine for 10 or so seconds. And goes back to stumbling. Most times I have to pull over out of traffic and wait for it to so call catch again.
I have changed plugs, wires, coil rack & fuel pump module. Because someone else looked at it before I did, they erased stored codes. I have pulled 2 codes on 2 different occasions. The first was P0134 the second was P1166. Other times no codes were stored. I did notice that if I shut off ignition & restart it runs great for 10 or 15 seconds.
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My 2004 Elantra occasionally won't start. When I hold the ignition on Start, the radio loses power (but the dashboard doesn't) and nothing else happens. Sometimes, tapping the gas pedal will suddenly cause the car to start. Once, I had to stomp the pedal to the floor before it would work.
I just replaced the battery (and positive cable end since it was corroded in place) and recently replaced the spark plugs (which were badly burnt). There is a check engine code for "catalyst underperforming" which seems unrelated.
I suspect my car has fuel delivery problems. It occasionally sputters while idling and often has power loss while driving if I try to accelerate hard. It seems to have trouble shifting into 4th gear from 3rd or 5th, but that may be another issue entirely.
What I should check to diagnose this, or replace to resolve it?
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Today I took my AWD 2.7 Santa Fe out. All seemed fine until I made a turn... I noticed I was loosing power and came to a stop, despite pressing the gas pedal fully. The car then started to vibrate extremely hard and all of the dash lights came on. The car stalled completely. I tried to start the car again, but it took a few tries. The car shook severely in park, but when put in drive immediately became much worse and then completely stalled. I did this many times trying to get out of the street. I finally got it to work good enough to get off the road - I did however notice that it would not shift out of 1st gear. It had very high rpms, but refused to shift.
I am guessing this is the crankshaft position sensor? Could this be a MAF problem? I believe I read on this forum about high humidity making Santa Fes go crazy - it has been over 95% today, and raining. I managed to get the car down the road to a shop we trust. They are going to try and read codes later.
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I have a 01 elantra. Check engine light is on. Diags say p0133 o2 sensor slow bank 1 #1. Any way I have replaced the front sensor. Actually now I have 3 of them. The exhaust does not leak. New gaskets on the converter. New flex pipe and everything has been welded.
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2002 Santa Fe 2.4L Automatic. Driving on the freeway when it lost power. Couldn't go over 65 even with the accelerator all the way down, even slower on uphill climbs. The engine wouldn't rev higher than around 3000rpms.
I figured it sounded like a loss of power due to weak fuel pump. I replaced it as well as the fuel filter, and verified it was pumping. Put the car together, and still the same loss of power. Drove home and parked it, but next morning it won't run at all. It cranks all day long but doesn't fire.
So far, I have made the following repairs and checks:
-Verified catalytic converter was clear and not plugged
-Verified fuel pressure
-Checked spark plugs - all are good and gaped properly
-Replaced crank position sensor (With the code, I thought this would solve it)
-Verified timing belt and cam belt in time - both have also been changed recently
-Checked all relays and fuses
-Battery and alternator are good - both are new
I still have a crank no start issue, and I'm going crazy taking things apart and putting them back together only to have this car not fire.
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I have a 2005 crdi diesel santa fe that i have a strange problem with it starts up first time no problem in the mornings and can drive all day long. However if i switch it off and leave it sit for about a half hour no way will it start again until it cools off. It will start though with a push start instantly!
I got only one fault code P0340 cam shaft sensor fault, i replaces sensor and made no difference. Is this a common fault???
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So my wife was driving our 2002 santa fe 2.7L and it shutdown. I went with the scanner and saw one code, P0340. I towed it home, changed the Crank Position sensor, which really sucked. I put it all back together and still no start. Same code.
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This summer my power steering went out. I replaced the steering rack with a remanufactured rack, which failed. I got the replacement rack replaced by the remanufacturer and installed by a different shop. Same problem: SEVERE vibration when turning hard right followed by the PS error code, or just little twitchy motions when driving. I'm having the second shop take a look at it again this monday as I suspect that this is a data processing issue.
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02 Santa Fe 2.4L/ automatic/2 WD. I replaced the fuel filter (only) and have had a nightmare ever since. It takes multiple tries to start, running a little longer each time. When it will finally stay running, only the most delicate of throttle feathering will allow any RPM's to be built up. Any attempt to do otherwise will result is sputtering, bucking and other unhealthy behaviors until the throttle is closed. It also gives off the smell of running rich.
I borrowed a scan tool and got P0136 and P0141, which I expect since the O2 sensor wiring was cut in two by the heat shield shortly after my daughter bout the vehicle. It also is giving me the P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit code. I had replaced the CMPS and its connector a couple of month ago. I replaced the sensor again to no avail. I have checked the Orange/Black wire from the connector to the ECM and it reads 0 ohms. I get battery voltage at the connector on the Blue supply wire but only get 1.86 to 2.0V when I check the signal with the engine running.
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I drive a 2001 Toyota Camry LE, 2.2 4 cylinder. It has about 206k miles on it… About 2 months ago I started to feel slight hesitation when I was driving…. It was so slight I wasn’t sure if it was happening or not. Recently the hesitation has become much worse… typically it will hesitate and jerk when I try to accelerate from slow speeds… this primarily happens when the car is cold. It will also jerk and hesitate when I am cruising at a fixed speed. If I step on the gas, the jerking stops.
Here are known issues and recent work I have had done… in November I replaced my complete exhaust system myself, including the downstream oxygen sensor. The cat is now bad and it will rattle. I had a mechanic replace my water pump, timing belt and all pulleys and tensioners associated with it about 2 weeks ago. The hesitation predated this problem.
About 5 years ago I replaced my own plugs and wires… when I did this; I noticed oil on one plug. This was for the cylinder closest to the driver’s side. I never noticed any issues with the performance of my car related to the oil, and I do not burn through much… perhaps a quart every 2 months. About a week ago I replaced my plugs and noticed the oil again. I do not know if this relates to my hesitation problem or not. I also filled my tank and used a container of injector cleaner, thinking perhaps a clogged injector was causing the problem.
The problem still exists.
Now I am thinking it might be one of two problems… either a defective ignition coil or a bad throttle position sensor. Yesterday I borrowed a code reader… it told me I had “long fuel trim in bank 1”.
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I bought a 2000 jetta gls vr6 5-speed. Only had the car about 4 weeks, already I am in, ball joints, struts, brakes, core leaks and my half shaft fell off at the transmission. Now, driveabilty issue.
Severe loss of power, sputtering bad. when i shift, the car revs a bit. installed new O2 sensor due to a rich code and a out of range code. Now the EPC light is on with an implausible brake switch signal. Replaced switch still comes back on. Still running like poop. Changed the plugs also about 1k back. I just ordered a MAF.
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About 2 months ago, I needed to test my engine cooling fan motor. Was using two lead test wires with alligator clips and stupidly connected the battery ends first and then the wind blew the other connection ends together creating a spark. That may or may not have anything to do with what has happened since then. About 3 days after that, I started to notice that my lights were dimming and ac fan motor was slowing when the engine was under load as in 1st or 2nd gear or going uphill.
After about a week, the ALT/BAT light came on and I replaced my alternator. The problem with that was that getting the belt back on the new ALT nearly killed me and I got several pretty bad injuries and ended up having to get it done. The old alternator tested bad so I figured my problem was solved. But ever since then, I am still getting the same problem - a voltage drop or loss of electrical power causing the lights to dim and the fan to slow - except this time is doesn't happen under load - it happens while driving and just after I have come to a stop at a light or stop sign. I have had the battery and alternator tested several times and they always show up as being fine.
I checked all the cables and connections and changed the positive battery cable bolt. I get no codes thrown. I cant just take the alternator out and change it because of what I went through with the last one - not to mention it tests OK so I can't use the warranty as long as that is the case anyway. So I am left with this troubling, annoying problem and don't know what the cause or solution is. I am guessing the list of options has to have the alternator, battery, connections, belt (though I have no sounds or evidence there is a problem with the belt - I suppose if the tensioner was damaged with the belt fiasco that it might cause such a problem). What to do? It is the biggest problem at night because my headlights are affected.
2001 Cavalier 5-speed manual 2.2
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I've been noticing severe power loss lately . I know the 12 camry i4 has a bit of lag when acceleration but it's a bit worse now . I do have weapon r header , injen intake and magna flow muffler. I've cleaned the intake filter but sometimes the car feels as though it doesn't want to go then it does. I have to push the pedal down hard . I also have res delete.
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My brother has an 02 ford escape that he bought cheap because it needed a transmission. He just replaced the transmission in it as well as tie rod ends, front axles, axle bushings and seals. The front pads and rotors are new and the tires were just rotated. Now when you are going 15mph and up and are on the accelerator there is a severe shaking as you accelerate and a loud thumping noise. If you let off the accelerator it goes away. If you get it going fast enough it will shake so bad the mirrors will shake. He is a ford mechanic but said he is having a hard time pin pointing what it could be . He took me for a ride. He said he has had other mechanics look at it but they can't figure it out.
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I might bring up a couple issues I've been having with my 2001 elantra gls manual recently.
The big one: Recently, if I accelerate aggressively or even moderately (passing someone or merging onto the freeway), there will be no power to the wheels and the car will rev into the 4K's and will not accelerate until I let off the pedal and am in the 2500 range. Then I can accelerate ever so slowly through the gears or risk being "disconnected". If that even makes sense. Basically, I shift into gear, accelerate, if I accelerate too fast (which is not fast at all) it "goes into neutral" and revs up to 4K and above until it falls back to 2500 or so.
The other problem is that my dash lights keep going on and off. Only some of them, and if I bash my dash they'll sometimes come back on. I checked for loose wiring. Non to be found.
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My 2005 Elantra is jerking soon after I accelerate. It does not jerk at any other time. It's not a hard jerk. Sometimes it doesn't jerk at all after acceleration. When it does jerk, the rpm jumps up too, and goes back down after the jerk.
I took it to a transmission shop and they checked the fluid and used a diagnostic thing to check the electrical components, all of which were fine. Is there another possible reason for this jerking?
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Girlfriend just bought a used Elantra. She told me about an issue shes been having with the car and how it feels as though its towing a trailer. I drove it for a day and noticed a few things. Vehicle has 110,000 miles
1. No CEL
2. Tranny seems to NOT be slipping (Revs climb just as slow as Speed)
3. Car feels VERY heavy at times. Especially on a start up-hill
4. No sputtering/misfires
5. Shifts up and down smooth
What I've tried so far:
1. Replaced Spark Plugs
2. Sea-Foam
3. Cleaned MAF/Checked Airfilter
4. Removed and Inspected BOTH Catalytic Converters and both seem to be intact. *plan on doing a back-pressure test as soon as I get the gauge from my buddy*
5. Checked timing marks
I put 1/4 can of seafoam in crank case and plan on letting it "run-in" for 25 miles or so. I plan on doing an oil change tonight as well as make sure the brakes are not hanging up (I should have checked this first, thinking back...but hind-sight is always 20/20 ) .
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2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS ... I don't know what is going on with my car. When I start it, put it in gear and try to pull out, it feels like there is a loss of power. A few seconds later, the power returns . I can push my foot down, and the engine doesn't rev, but then it's like all of a sudden the engine realizes I have my foot down and takes off.
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