Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Blinking Check Engine Light
Feb 9, 2014
My Girlfriend just got a 2003 Hyundai Elantra and everything was running great on it the first month she had it BUT the check engine light was on.. After about a month she called me up while driving and said that the check engine light was blinking and the car would hardly move. So I got to the car and looked at it and I noticed the oil filter was a little loose so I tightened it good this time and added a little bit of oil. It actually moved but it would hesitate. So we had it towed to a shop and they read the codes from the check engine light and told us it was leaking oil from the motor some where (not specific) and it also needed a new O2 sensor.
So I replaced the catalytic converter underneath the car and also a new sensor along with a new set of spark plugs. It ran alot better and I left it at that. Now about a week later she was coming home and noticed that when she turned left or right that the battery light and brake light on the dash came on. She drove it home and when she turned in the driveway the car went dead. It started right back up and we got it to the house and left it over night. I went out this morning and again it started right up. but when I lifted the hood I noticed the belts on the pulleys were all spinning very slowly. I'm not sure if it could be a timing chain or if it just needs new pulleys.
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I have a 2013 Elantra GLS with almost 200k on it. I am the original owner. I have only had a few small problems with it just replacing lights and had to replace the passengers side wheel bearing twice. the rest has just m=been replacing wear and tear parts. the check engine light is on because it needs 02 sensors. They are back ordered. The car started idling roughly and driving horribly on the way from Rhode Island to New York on Christmas day. A friend had a diagnostic machine and the code read misfire cylinder 3 p0303..I am assuming it damaged the catalytic converter and that I now need both the sensors and the convertor. I live about 7 miles from my garage. should I tow it ? or drive a t a low speed? Have to bring it in first thing in the morning. What else could be wrong?
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I have a 2011 Elantra that I purchased brand new. Has over 60,000 miles on it. Had a check engine light come about year or so ago which was fixed with a software update at the dealer.
Check engine light is back on now. Steady light; it's not blinking. Brought it to my mechanic. Ran diagnostic and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. P codes were P2096 and P2196. He ordered the sensor from the dealership and installed it. Reset my cars computer. I drove the car 26 miles and the engine light came on again.
Here are my questions:
1. Wouldn't my mechanic's diagnostic equipment tell him what the problem or all the problems were? Why would it tell him the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced when there seems to be another problem causing the engine light to come on?
2. Would the dealership have more insight into a check engine light system problem than a mechanic shop may have?
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So last Thursday I started my car up in the blistering cold and it ran fine for about a minute and started to misfire so I shut it off. It hasn't ran since. When that happened the check engine light was blinking because of the misfire. I didn't have a code reader at the time to read it. now that I got a code reader the damn thing isn't throwing any codes. it spits and sputters sometimes. I've had no previous problems with the car. Thinking It might be a weak fuel pump or bad coils and in not sure how to test them.
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I have a 2001 Ford Windstar Sports SE with 155K miles. I did a tune-up eight months ago. With the tune up I had to replace the fuel pump because it was defective. Later, I found that there were misfires occurring since I was getting slow acceleration. I had the spark plugs on the guilty cylinders replaced again and the spark plug wires.
Periodically, I have had to return to the shop to have the vehicle checked. I sometimes get a blinking check engine light while trying to accelerate, which now occurs only while it is raining or I am exiting the car wash. The shop is at a loss as to what it is (spark plugs and wires are fine, no lose connections noticed). I am wondering if I should take it to someone else. Of course, taking it somewhere else will cost me $100 to check on someone's else work.
The shop replaced the ignition coil. Distributor cap is fine. They keep saying that the engine is running fine while in the shop and do not get any codes. I had them drive it while it was raining and they discovered that cylinder 4 is misfiring. They worked on the cylinder. The vehicle runs well, until it rains or I wash it.
My questions to the group, "If everything is OK, how come it is misfiring? What are they missing? What is the connection to the moisture?"
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While I am driving the car it will start to die and skip. Happens randomly. Today I was driving up a small hill and it went quits on me started lurching with check engine light coming on and off. The car will turn over and start, but only for a few seconds before dying again.
Seems to happen when the car is running for a while. Also the ABS light flashes on then off randomly while driving sometimes although It hasn't been an issue. Will be checking tomorrow to see if it starts.
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I've replace the input and output transmission speed sensors on my 01 GLS. check engine light is on again for 2 P0501 codes. There is no abs speed sensor on the left side but there is on the right side which doesn't look like it is seated correctly. The transmission is still shifting kinda funny sometimes. Should I have abs speed sensors on both sides? And what else should I do to fix the random erratic shifting?
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I just bought a used 2004 Elantra that has 97,000 miles on it. When I took the vehicle out for a test drive it was smooth and quite. That was on Monday its now Saturday less than 300 miles later and the check engine light came on and it is having serious hesitation issues?! I am going to take it back where I purchased it from on Monday when they open but in the meantime I would like to know if its could be something simple?
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My check engine light came on in my 2005 Elantra. During the course of trying to find out why I realized that my transmission fluid was a little low. I went to Walmart and got a bottle of the multi vehicle fluid the auto counter man said it needed. I did come online to check to see if that was the right fluid before putting it in and see that evidently the specs are very specific for what type of transmission fluid to use.
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I have a 2004 standard Elantra GT. I had to get an emissions test and the CEL light will not stay off. My garage replaced two valves in the fuel tank and the neck to the tank and have done numerous "smoke tests" but can't find the leak. Now they are saying there is something wrong with the computer. They got it to stay off long enough to pass the test, but the light's on again. I see that there was a recall issued because of the cracked exhaust manifold, I think I had the catalytic converter replaced up at the cottage.
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Have an 01 elantra as a second car and it's great. Just recently tho the check engine light came on and I've got a few codes that make sense since there has been some odd issues with it in the past month or so.
02 sensor CKT bank 1 sensor 2 (slow response)
shift solenoid D malfunction
shift solenoid C malfunction
shift solenoid B malfunction
Trans range circuit malfunction (PRNDL input)
So I know the 02 sensor needs to be replaced, that's fine. I'm more concerned about the rest of the codes because when cruising around 40mph the car tries to shift to 4th gear or something like that, it will bog down because the rpm is too low (maybe its overdrive, not sure).
That's a minor issue but has been there since we got the car over the summer, the bigger issue is the last couple of days, i've noticed that when driving the car around the city, slow down - turning - and then accelerating the engine/trans will buck harshly a few good times before it smoothens out, my guess is the gear change didn't go well.
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As the title says I have plugged a code reader in and it says "cyclinder three misfire". So I pulled the plugs and good god they were nasty. Some having a gap of 80-90 thousandths of an inch. So I figured the plugs were the source of the problem, thus I replaced them but to my dimise the check engine light is still on, and still reading the same ol' "cyclinder three misfire". I have put 350 miles on it in 24 hours of changing it to allow for proper time of the circuit cycling for the light to change but not sure if it takes longer...?
I also went ahead and checked the plug wires resistance when I had the plugs pulled and they ranged from 1.5-2.5k ohms shortest to longest (cylinder 4-1). And if your curious the magic cylinder three was around 2k ohms for however long that wire is, my guess would be 18 inches. Would this be out of tolerance, I know the norm is 10k ohm for every 12 inches or so...?
My next guess would be replacing the power pack or I guess you car guys call it the "ignition coil"...? I will say that the car does run much smoother after replacing the plugs.
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I just purchased my first foreign car ever. it is a 2002 Elantra it idles very rough changed plugs using NGK and wires new fuel filter and ran 2 full tanks of high grade fuel with STP fuel injector cleaner. but had no effect on idle also have no check or service engine light. What to check next?
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I own an 04 Hyundai Elantra with around 196,000 miles on it, and have run across a problem I haven't had to deal with before. A few days ago, my check engine light came on while driving. I didn't really notice much, but when I started it again it began idling roughly. I got it home and pulled the code, which was P0341 (camshaft position sensor). This isn't the first sensor I've had go on the car (I replaced an oxygen sensor and throttle position sensor a couple years ago), however I ran into two problems:
1. How likely is it that it's the sensor that's bad as opposed to something like the timing belt or VVT adjustment?
2. Since the sensor isn't horribly expensive, I decided to try replacing it, but I can't get any socket to fit on the bolt that secures it. I've heard it's a 10mm, but nothing seems to fit snugly. Maybe there's just so much crud and corrosion that it's ruined the head. I tried using an extraction socket, but no luck.
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I just got this very nice Elantra 04 with 64k on it. Yesterday suddenly I got the check engine light on. Today I went to Auto zone and they have checked my car and it showed code P2626. But there are more than a few suggestions about what could be. I don't know what to do. See the attachment below.
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I have an 05 Elantra GLS auto transmission, ~83000 miles. Last Friday, the car was driving fine. I didn't drive it on Saturday, but when I started it up Sunday night, that's where the issue began. First, when I shift into reverse, the car makes a noise like as when you go over a pot hole. Idle RPM is around 800.
When I press the gas pedal, usually the response from the car to go forward is almost instantaneous, but now it take a second or two from the time I press down the gas pedal to when the car moves forward. The process is smooth though, no hiccups as it does that. Next, when I was driving on the highway between 70 - 80 MPH, the car's RPM was 4000 - 4500. It even sounds like the engine is "working harder" than it usually does. The 'Check Engine' light is also on with these codes: P0700 and P0885.
Another thing I noticed is that the car alternates between running fine and running with the conditions described above. If the car run with the symptoms described above, I shut off the car and restart it. Then it will run fine, but the check engine light will stay on. Then if I turn off the car and restart it, it will go back to the mode where I have the issues.
From some research, the P0700 code just means that the TCM has the actual code which is P0885. According to the tech manuals at [URL] ...., the P0885 has the following probable causes.
- Malfunction of the A/T control relay
- Malfunction of connector
- Malfunction of the PCM
The car actually ran fine today, with out any issues but the Check Engine light is stuck on. How to replace/service this PCM item? Or maybe this issue is covered under 100,000mile warranty?
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I recently had the engine light come up on my Hyundai Elantra 2003. I read the code with my cheap little code reader with the torque lite (free) app on android. It threw the P0128 code which means a faulty thermostat.
Here's the web link to all the details on the code: [URL] ....
I have checked the coolant level and its good. The strength of the coolant is good to -40 Celsius. The engine fan is not running at all. I recently changed the thermostat. I'm leaning towards faulty ECT. The car takes forever to blow hot air too. It has done weird readings in the past with the temperature gauge in the cab.
I just bought a infrared temperature reader of Amazon and want to check the temperature where the water comes out of the engine past the thermostat and compare it to the reading on the torque app readings. I'm thinking it won't match.
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I bought an 04 elantra a few weeks ago. The check engine light is now on and I get code P0420 listed twice with my code reader. I have replaced the downstream O2 sensor and reset the codes only for them to return again. It is my understanding that this is going to be a convertor problem. My question is that from the research I have done it looks as though this car has two converters. One at the exhaust manifold and then another in the tailpipe. Which one is going to be the most likely causing my Check engine light to come on. Or do I need to replace both converters.
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This issue has only happened twice to me.
I go out to start the car, it cranks and cranks and cranks. I stop turning the key. I then try again and it hesitates to starts. I give it a little gas and it starts. When it does this, the car begins running very rough and idling rough. When I give it a little gas while it's parked, the check engine light begins flashing at me.
I turned the car off and came back to it the next morning (maybe 10 hours apart). It started right up no problem, no CEL either.
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While on my 20 mile commute my check engine light turned on, attached the code reader to the car and got codes P0422 and U0D00. Looked up the P0422 code to find "Caralyst efficiency below normal (bank 1)" I have a list of possible fixes but have no luck finding out about the U0D00 code. I notice I lose and a quart of oil every month and when I start the car, the first 5 seconds or so the engine revs to 4000 rpm.
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I have a 2003 Elantra GLS. I am intermittently Check Engine light and error code is P0113 - Air Intake sensor issue. I can't locate where the sensor is. I don't see any wire coming of the tubing that connects the air filter to the engine.
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