02 Hyundai Elantra I'm having issues with the lights for some reason or another when I turn the headlights on the blinker don't blink it stays on constant and when there off it blinks but it looks like the flashers are Going off but the left turn signal works with no issues. The dash lights blink to when the right turn signal is on.
View 2 Repliesmy front driver side blinker light is giving me some trouble. The side marker & rear blink fine, but the front does not blink. The bulb does work though when I turn my lights on, but just won't blink.
View 2 RepliesMy Jeep blinker will sometime blink quickly (double or triple the normal)and will not blink in the front left marker. Is this a socket problem or a dust/dirt issue?
View 1 RepliesWhat is the VAG-COM code for changing the blinker so that it would blink 4 times instead of 3 when you just tap it. I tried searching for it and can't find it in the archives. What the code is, or where the message it?
View 7 RepliesOk, I admit this isn't on a Ford, it's my old man's 1970 AMX, but it's an odd electrical problem we can't figure out. The front right blinker works fine when the headlights are OFF but when the headlights are on it doesn't blink. The other three work as they should. He has tried new bulbs, ohmed and voltage tested the sockets. Ohm reading was around 1-2ohms and voltage was 9v.
The voltage also fluctuated when the blinker was on but when you put a bulb in it didn't blink. He has noted the bulb on the passenger side is brighter than the other side. He's trying to get it ready to take to Pigeon Forge next weekend for a car show and I 4.5 hours away. What could be going on??? Could a bad headlight switch cause this? Bad socket?
2003 Elantra GT 5-speed:
In driveway with constant pressure on accelerator (stick wedged between pedal and seat) a static rpm can be maintained for only a short time(< 2 min) time before rpm drops rapidly to idle rpm. Accelerator pedal never moves (still depressed to high rpm position) but engine is just idling away.
Note: New fuel filter and fuel pump recently installed as engine intermittently chugged/hesitated (acted like out of fuel for a fraction of a sec) especially with warmer air temperatures. Still does this but now unable to maintain driving rpm for any length of time.
I own a 2002 Elantra with 75000 miles.
This just happened recently this winter. After a cold startup I hear a constant hissing noise (for lack of better word) coming from under the hood for about 5 minutes .
This is NOT the kind of sharp noise that you would hear from a loose power steering belt but it is definitely coming from that area (towards the passenger side close to power steering belt/alternator), though I could not pinpoint the exact location.
Everything seems to be working fine and after about 5 minutes it goes away. I am not missing any fluids and don't experience any other symptoms.
I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS, and it has a constant airbag light on in the dash. I have zip-tied the connectors underneath the driver and passenger side to ensure they are not loose. I took apart the center console and unplugged, replugged the airbag module, and the connector close to the gear shift. The two fuses in the fuse panel beneath the storage compartment to the left are good. I am at a block. I can't think of anything else to check, and the shop wants $90 to diagnose the problem. I've also left the battery off overnight to see if that would kwor. Still nothing.
View 7 RepliesI have an 04 Elantra GT and have been noticing a jerkiness when driving at a constant speed on the highway. I haven't noticed it around town or while accelerating. I also have noticed that when I disengage the clutch on the highway, the engine sometimes doesn't respond right away, or it even may surge. This has happened when exiting the highway when I disengage the clutch. The engine will slow, then speed up close to 3000 rpms.
I also had a check engine light come on and couple months ago. The code indicated that the upstream O2 sensor was bad. I took it out and cleaned it, but didn't replace it. Is this a likely culprit for this set of symptoms? If so, how can I test the sensor to be sure? I heard that I could disconnect it and run the car and see if the surging lessens, but wasn't sure if that was a good thing to do.
I noticed this morning that since last night the passengers side red interior door light stays on after the door is shut. The dome light shuts off once the door is closed however the red light does not. I've checked all four door light sensors that actuates the interior lighting but they all function correctly without any resistance or stickiness. The drivers side red interior light functions as it should but the passengers side stays on all the time.
I'm worried the battery will be drained if the light continues to stay on. I'd light to figure out why this is happening. If I choose to remove the bulb will there will be a draw on the battery? And do I have to remove the entire door panel in order to remove the bulb?
After spilling coffee down emergency brake lever the airbag light intermittently stays on. OBD showed no codes.
Found a couple of recalls that deal with airbag problems. One messed with the wiring harness under neath both front seats. The old wires hung down to low. The 2nd added a cover to not allow liquid to get on the connector/airbag electronics. The airbag electronics connector is directly below the emergency handbrake lever.
My nephews 2002 had the carpet extended over the connector/airbag electronics and that was suppose to protect the connector from getting wet.
Found sticky coffee on connector/airbag electronics.
Used screw driver to pry up on console tray. Then removed 3 screws on both side of console. Disconnected battery then used contact cleaner on connector and electronic module. Took plastic lid from 42oz round container of oatmeal and used double side tape to secure over connector/electronic module.
Airbag light is off and connector/airbag electronics has better protection from spills.
My 02 elantra gls 5 speed clutch has gotten stuck engaged for about the third time now. First time was right after I bought the car i noticed the clutch would slip randomly for no reason. At first i thought the clutch must need replaced, but then other times I couldn't make it slip if i tried by going up steep hills with car full of people and shifting too soon on purpose and punching gas....no slip. So anyways i replaced the slave cylinder, and all was good till one day my wife calls me up stranded and says clutch pedal is rock hard and none of the gears will engage. so i tow the car home and fiddle around and realized the slave cylinder (brand new one) was stuck out. I opened the bleeder and it returned without me having to push on it or anything. i then bled the system thoroughly. So months have gone by and the slave cylinder got stuck out again, and again it was a simple turn of the bleeder valve and it went back and works fine. just curious as to how i can fix this problem permanently since its irritating and seems to be reoccurring. do i need to replace the master cylinder as well or did i buy a bad slave cylinder?
View 6 RepliesI bought a used 2005 Elantra a couple years ago for my teenagers. The airbag light came on, so I took it to the dealer. The code they found is B1448. They said they need to replace the passenger side seat cushion module. (I think the value of the whole car can't be much more than that!).
View 2 RepliesWhat the code "32" means for the airbag? Lately my airbag light on the dash will blink 3-2 for several cycles then stays on solid til I shut down the truck.
View 12 RepliesOk so the fuel gauge says empty and the low fuel light stays on even though the tank is full. I'm assuming its either the gauges or the sending unit. If it is the sending unit where is it located on this car?
View 4 RepliesI have this annoying vibration that starts at 85-90 mph and stays relatively constant above that, but doesn't get super intense or feel like the car is going to fall apart. Its a light vibration that I can feel at 9 and 3 on the steering wheel.
Background: So about 6 months ago I realized my CV boot was torn. I tried to replace CV joint, but they sent wrong joint(Meyle) so we ended up trying to force it onto the CV shaft for like an hour before giving up. I remember one of my BMW Technician buddies literally smashing the joint onto the shaft with a plastic mallet but it just wouldn't go over the circlip.
We ended up just replacing the boot and putting the old CV joint back on, but we didn't have any extra grease to put in it because we had already put it into the new joint that wouldn't fit. Since then I've basically tried everything I can think of, including:
-Balanced and Road Forced
-Laser Alignment
-Replaced all 4 tires
-Fixed bent rims
-Refreshed suspension/steering:
-All new F+R LCA bushings
-New inner/outer tie rods
-New ball joints
-New sway bar bushings
-New strut top mounts
So what the hell is keeping her from being smooth as butter over 90? Did we screw up the shaft by beating on it? Or is it just vibrating from the lack of grease/damage from torn boot? Was I supposed to align the shaft when putting it back on or something?
Truck is a 2008 F150 5.4 4x4. I changed the spark plugs the other night for the second time. Everything went smoothly. Got the truck put back together and cranked it up afterwards to let it run. Truck ran great, but as the engine temp got up around 150 degrees, I started hearing a very loud ringing sound. I shut off the engine, double checked all connections, removed the belt to rule out accessory drive noise. No luck. The noise stays constant regardless of engine RPM, so I decided to drive it. I found the noise fades away under load, then returns as soon as I let off the throttle. I attached a GoPro to a cross member near the transmission after narrowing the noise down to the bell housing area.
Attached is a link to the video I made : 2008 F150 5.4 Noise - YouTube...
I have a 2001 Chevy S10 4.3L. The CHECK GAUGES light stays on, and the oil pressure gauge stays at 0. The oil is full, and the engine runs and sounds fine. I drove it about 5 miles with no change. Up until now, the gauge has worked normally. Could it be the sending unit?
View 2 RepliesI also have a problem with my left blinker and my break lights. My right blinker works just fine, but my left blinker and break lights will not come on unless I pull the blinker switch forward a bit- as if I'm going to turn my brights on.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 Passat and the blinker is stuck on. It doesn't flash it just stays on when the car is on or off. This has been running down the battery. Also it seems the radio is staying on. I'm not sure if there is something in the car that tells these things to turn off when the car is off and this is broken.
View 6 RepliesThe green lights work on the AC and Max AC buttons. However, when I attempt the ignition on, fan off, press AC button 3x, fan to auto - nothing happens. No light blinking at all.
View 1 Replies