Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Belt Squeaks And Sometimes Sounds Like Grinding And Lose Power For 4 - 5 Seconds
Jun 30, 2015
I have a 2005 Elantra GLS. I've noticed that anytime it rains or I hit a puddle, my belt squeaks and sometimes it almost sounds like it's grinding and I lose power for 4-5 seconds. From the front passenger wheel well, I can clearly see the belt. I noticed there are holes drilled into the frame, and I was wondering if there is suppose to be a guard there to prevent water from getting on the belt?
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My vr6 some times loses its power but it's weird because the check engine light does not appear. It does for like 30 seconds then it goes back to driving normally.
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2 questions regarding my 2005 Mariner 3.0L, as follows:
1. After a cold start (in the garage, so not freezing cold) the water pump belt - not the serpentine belt - squeaks for 15 - 20 seconds; ambient temperature doesn't matter. I had put a new belt on about a year ago, then this began 6 or so months later. Thinking I may have a defective belt, I replaced it again about 3 months ago, but the squeaking has continued - starting immediately after the replacement. My analysis is that the water pump bearing is going south. I've noticed that it is taking a little longer for the squeak to go away in the past few weeks, so it's probably getting worse, altho no leaks at this point. So the question is, so any other reason this is happening?
2. Assuming I do need to replace the WP, I bought a new one from the local parts house. I have a shop manual for the car, which tells me to remove the thermostat housing, hose connection to the WP, etc., and then remove the WP by removing just 3 bolts. However, the replacement part is just the front of the housing with the impeller and pulley included, so there are a half-dozen or so bolts that hold this new part onto the WP housing. So, doing this change-out? Will the front of the WP housing come off by itself without disconnecting the hose, etc., or do I first have to remove the whole WP and then take it apart to replace the impeller and front cover? I can't really tell from the pic in the shop manual, and it doesn't address dis-assembly of the WP.
Also, I'd like to just remove the belt w/o cutting it and having to buy a new one. Can I do this by just loosening the WP bolts? (I know how to re-install, obviously.)
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One of my belts squeaks. I've tightened one of them as far as it goes I think. The other one is the one with the alternator. Do I tighten the pulley bolt on the alternator to add tension to that one?
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Well, two years after I replaced the pump bearing and the power steering is acting up like the belt is slipping. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes the steering gets jerky and hard.
The fluid level was fine, but I changed out the old stuff anyway, the belt is fine and not loose. I also pulled the pump apart to inspect it and it still looks as good as new.
When it acts up at a stop, it will squeal, but like I said, the belt is not loose. It's almost as if the rack is bottoming out against the bump stop (it's not) or the valve that lets excess pressure is dumping pressure randomly.
I took the valve apart with the pump and it looks fine, no scratches. Do the rack or valve go bad? If so, what was that like and could my rack have a seal leaking inside?
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2008 Hyundai Elantra, 2.0 it. We replaced a bad water pump, and timing belt while we were there. I followed directions found on multiple websites. We spun the crank shaft to the top dead center mark on the crank sprocket/engine block, and the cam sprocket / assignment mark. Then removed tensioner, and belt. Installed new belt and ensured alignment marks had not moved. Applied pressure to tensioner and tightened. Reassembled everything else. Car started with no problems, drive for about twenty minutes started making clicking sound from under the hood, we turned around to come back home and the car still making clicking sounds gradually started to loose power and speed until the engine stalled and would not restart. Trying to find out what could have happened.
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My Elantra has been doing this for a while: While running (idle, driving slow, driving fast, doesn't matter) the car will lose power and will not respond to the throttle. It does this a few times in a row usually and then starts running normally. When running normally it runs perfectly fine, nice smooth low idle and good acceleration.
I started by doing a basic tune up: plugs, wires, oil change, air filter. No change. I then swapped the throttle position sensor. No change. You can see the symptom on youtube here: [URL] ....
What could be causing this?
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2002 Sante Fe, 2.7L Belt squeals for about 10 seconds when the vehicle is first started up (engine cold) in the morning. Doesn't do it any other time until next morning. I had this problem 6 months ago and replaced the belt (OEM) and Dayco Tensioner. Now I have same issue again! What gives?
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First, while driving, my radio dies, my lights start to dim, and I lose my power steering. The first local shop I took it to installed a new alternator and I drove it home. Died again while I was driving. They then replaced three alternators with same results thinking they were bad. Ended up refunding my $400 and putting my original alternator back in and I had my car towed to the Hyundai dealer.
They had car for four days while testing it after charging the battery. They could find nothing wrong with it(again, no charge). Picked it up and drove it home(with someone following me). Two day latter, dead again. What is draining my battery? Do I have a short or something?
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My 2001 jeep cherokee sport had a transfer case boot replaced a few months ago where the "oil spinner?" is near the rear portion. Before that went out i had periodic noise that i narrowed down to the transfer case using a mechanics stethoscope. Now i have a cluncking noise with gear grinding sounds periodically between 15-35 mph. I have annecdotal evidence from another forum that it may be the oil pump in the transfere case related to a TSB, yet i cannot find this TSB. Am i on the right track? It appears that i can get an oil pump for $60 but i have to consider dropping the case myself and pulling it apart.
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My 2004 Elantra has a rough idle when it starts up cold and sounds like it has a miss. When it warms up it smooths out. What could be the cause of this?
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My car sounds like an airplane when I'm on the highway. It started a week ago. I don't have new tires or anything and it only starts when I'm going above 80 km/hr.
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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I had this problem before on my 2009 RX350 and took it to the dealer - they were stumped at first but eventually figured out it was the spare tire making noise every time I made a turn into a driveway or went over a little hill/bump.
They did something to adjust it or tighten it and the jack etc. and it went away. Now the sound is back, big time. How to adjust the spare to get rid of this. Also if there's a hack to pad or insulate the spare that would be great.
I also found another thread on a similar thing but it's talking about struts, shocks and trailing arms on 3rd generations. [URL] ....
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I have an 02 2.4 gas SF. After a good while, the car will run rough, lose power and will not take any throttle. As if it is starving for fuel. But it will idle fine and if it does stall, will restart. On a hill, I have to drop into first and keep it at 1000 RPM (yikes!)
If I keep going with very little throttle, it may resolve itself. It is always fine after a complete cool down. I checked for vacuum in the tank by opening the filler while it was misbehaving. I have a new CPS, new coil packs, new filters. I've have enough gas fill ups to eliminate water in the gas.
It has thrown no codes. I went ahead and ordered a MAF sensor and a cam position sensor...just guessing. (it had failed emissions which I resolved by cleaning the MAF.)
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I have a 2004 F250 Superduty with the 2003 6.0 Powerstroke inside of it. In the morning i can go out and start the truck perfectly fine starts up and runs like a champ, it will drive to any destination perfectly fine with no issues, ALTHOUGH .... once i reach where im going if i turn the truck off it will not start correctly. it cranks over and will start but sounds as if it is hydrolocking and in a matter of seconds kills itself. once it does this i have to let the truck sit for a minimum of 4-5 hours with the hood popped to allow motor to cool... as soon as its cooled completely i can start it and once again it runs perfectly fine until i turn it off again. if i leave it running at an idle it will sit and idle all day long and i can jump in and drive it fine. It just happens when it gets turned off.
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I am having a really tough month with finances, and life in general... and now my car's engine has died on me. I drive a Mazda Protege 2000 ES with 197,000 miles on it.
The problem started with the water pump failing; I decided not to drive the car that much, if at all until I could get it fixed. I always kept an eye for the water and the temp gauge, and I thought it could last a couple of short trips at least. Well today was my appointment with the mechanic, and the belt broke off... The water pump went all lose, and I suddenly felt the steering was starting to fail too. So I decided to pull over... before even reaching the side of the road, the battery indicator was lit, then all the other lights came in, and fumes were coming out from the front.
In the shop my mechanic tried starting the car and said that the compression was lost and that the engine was dead. I actually don't want to see the car go... And everyone think it is stupid, but what I am thinking is... All I can afford right now is another $2000 car, which will mean that I might need to fix a bunch of stuff again anyways. So why not just replace the engine? The engine is what basically makes a car... a car. The rest of the car seems fine, and I never thought it would die all suddenly .
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I replaced my GF's water pump, timing belt, tensioner and roller on her 05 Elantra. WHen I started the car up I can hear a loud whine from the belt.
Everwhere I searched I read that it's too tight.
But in this video: [URL] ....
At around 9:11, when the guy starts the car it's the same exact whine? Is this normal or something with a brand new belt? Or did he tighten it too much? Or is it because her timing belt covers are missing the rubber grommets, and there is a HOLE in the side of one of them. So am i getting the full brunt force of the timing belt?
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Changed the timing belt. Used the red mark up top and the cut in the block on the lower one to get TDC. Changed everything with new parts. Double checked the marks after the belts were on (rotated by hand through two full turns and checked to see if the marks were in the same spot). I followed the write up that was posted here by U95.
Anyway, the car won't start. It tries cranking, but won't actually start. There is fuel and the battery should be good to go. There shouldn't be any Fuel/Compression/Air issues.
I guess my question is: If the timing belt is not tightened enough, would that keep it from firing?
Also, in trying to crank it by key every thing sounds normal (no knocks or pings or valves getting bent sounds) and turning by hand gives just the little bit or normal resistance but spins nicely.
I'll probably take the battery to get it load (I used my tender to try and start it as well, didn't make a difference) tested tomorrow and then try the starter (shouldn't be bad though, only 60k on the car). Otherwise I'll have to teardown and start over.
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2003 elantra when I start the car the belts squeal for about a minute, then whatever I do they start squealing again- turn on headlights, roll down windows, steer the car, turn on ac, anything starts the squealing again. I have had all new belts including timing belt, water pump, etc and it is only getting worse by the day.
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Today, the air conditioning stopped working in my 2003 Elantra. Just stopped blowing cold air. Then the engine thermometer kept on climbing. When I pulled over home, I lifted the hood and heard a lot of bubbling and gurgling sounds, and coolant fluid leaked out underneath the car.
What could be the cause of this? When I let the car stay for a while, the AC did kick back on, but only for a few moments and the thermometer kept on climbing again until I turned the car off. The fan is blowing, I can hear it, but it is obviously not cooling the engine off appropriately.
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