I just picked up this 2005 Elantra last month. She runs GREAT - except after filling. Then she will occasionally sputter or sometimes stall during idle. Otherwise, if tank is below 3/4 (approximately), she runs fine.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 Elantra with 170K miles. well taken care of. I've been having a rough idle issue for some time now. The car idles very rough. I checked for codes and I got the cylinder 2 misfire code (P0302)...
I started out and replaced the plugs and wires, no solution...
I replaced the coil packs, no solution...
I replaced the MAP sensor, no solution...
I figured it may be no to low compression, so I did a compression test and all cylinders came back normal, still no solution...
I figured it might be a dirty injector, so I poured some seafoam in the gas tank, and no solution...
So my next step is to switch out the injector. Is there anything I am overlooking?
Here's the big thing that is happening too... Everytime I fill up the gas tank, I turn the car on and it idles even rougher. Like if you talk while sitting in the car, you sound like Chevy Chase when he is on the vibrating bed with Beverly D'Angelo in the movie vacation! LOL. It slowly goes away after 10-15 minutes of driving. All this rough running engine ONLY happens at idle, otherwise it runs very smoothly.
My 05 Elantra 2.0, 5 speed won't idle when cold til I drive it a few hundred feet. It will stall. Only then will the idle rise to what it's supposed to be. Is there some sort of cold idle sensor/module that needs replacing?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 4.6L FX4. When I run the A/C for an extended period (say 15-20+ minutes), it will start to cough and sputter and eventually just die. It will restart but run rough and cough, sputter, die.
If I turn off A/C and let it set a while, it runs fine. No check engine light. Possible EGR problem????
2002 V10 72k, starts fine, runs fine, occasionally misfires and will stall at idle. So far.
Replace boots
Replaced Air Filter
Tested resistance in all coil packs all within value
CODE P0720 - OSS (replaced, knew it wasn't it but...)
Seafoamed truck (very anticlimatic)
Cleaned MAS
Headed to clean IAC next.
Still has the original plugs, any reason to change them yet?
Does the IAC have a function when engine is at temperature? Getting ready to bite the bullet on AE. Any first hand experience with AE? I STFF and couldn't find anything.
I'm about 90% convinced it's a bad COP, but I'm not about to buy 10 of them on I think. Also not inclined to switch each COP with a known good one. I'm hoping the AE will show misfires and pending codes.
I have an '02 Elantra GLS Manual Trans 91000 miles and every time I gas it up I have to rev the engine until I get moving or else the engine will die. It only happens when I fill up and I do not top it off. Also it has tried to keep running after I park and take the key out. What may be happening?
View 1 RepliesAt seemingly random times when I take my Elantra to the gas station it will only fill the tank about half way before clicking off. After doing some quick google searches I'm leaning towards something being wrong with CCV system. I read that over filling the tank can cause debris to clog the system and a few months back my father-in-law borrowed it he has a tendency to overfill the gas tank. But I've also read that there's an error code that tends to pop up with it and so far there's been none. Either way I'm not familiar with how the CCV and related systems work.
View 3 RepliesI have an 04 Elantra GT. My gas gauge is showing full but the car is running out of gas. I try to fill the tank and I get the annoying click and after trying for a few, gas comes up the filler and overflow tube and makes a mess. At the same time, I was getting a P0449 code. I got an evap canister from the junkyard and that seems to have gone away.
Tried diagnosis but dropping the fuel tank to access the lines. When I jack the tank back up into position, you can hear gurgling sounds and as if the gas is coming up the fill tube. I also opened the access panel under the seat to see the pump assembly and when I removed the 8mm bolts, gas came pouring out. There was definitively gas in there. Checked the float on the pump assembly and it moved?
There is also something at the fuel neck at the top. Don't know what it is and if that could also be part of the problem.
Son was unable to fill his car's gas tank, 2002 Elantra (but happens to all cars sometimes).
The vapor lock on the pump kept shutting the gas flow off.
This was caused by the tanks vapor exhaust being unable to exit while filling, so the only place to go was back up through the gas fill hole.
The charcoal filter had sprung a leak so the zillions of tiny little charcoal pellets pour from the filter into the rubber hose clogging it.
The Filter is $150 at Hyundai. Not available at AutoZone or OReilys.
Very simple to replace a couple bolts a few hose clamps.
Strange problem, thats no one at work had encoutnered before. A few Hyundai mechanics had heard of it and worked it before.
Also could be Purge Valve or Vent Valve solenoids...search EAP system too if your having this issue of not being able to fill your tank with gas, without 500000 vapor locks shutting the pump off!
My daughters 2002 HYD Elantra engines misses sporadically often every time after a fill up. What it might be. Once some of the gas is used then it stops.
View 3 RepliesI have no problems pumping gas in, but the entire car cabin smells very strongly of gas after filling up. It seems to come from the area of the charcoal canister. No dripping of gas, no puddles... Did a smoke test, no leaks showed up anywhere (according to the mechanic). I do not want to start throwing parts at this to fix it - where should I start, and in what order should I throw parts? 2003 elantra GT sedan, 70k ....
View 1 RepliesI am trying to fix the pesky hard start that I have. My car doesn't start right up anymore unless it is frozen cold. Other than that it takes 2-3 cranks sometimes 4 to turn over. That's annoying and embarrassing and I am trying to remedy it ASAP.
I have a check valve and Purge valve on hand right now. In my research it seems this is where I need to focus. I do have an engine code it was P0456 this time. I also have a gas cap.
I have a check valve because of the all too familiar cutting off early at fuel pump problem. I wanted to start there first since I am sure something needs repairing down by the fuel tank and since the problem is common. And hopefully the valve will work with the fill up and MAYBE with the start, if not that is where the purge valve comes in.
I got as far as get the 2 12mm bolts off and then couldn't make it any further.
Car: Elantra 2002 GT
5 Speed Manual
318000km
Kept all recommended service checks
Just week ago strange occurrence of the following problem started. Car is Idling No Problem, Running in any speed, accelerating no problem. Driving on Highway one day engine started stall (check Engine popup stall) but I didn't push the clutch and its restarted and run and again after while come on and stall and restarted and run and after just running no problem.
Removed Fuel pump, check the tank, nothing visible, I put water remover in the tank refuel to the full tank, car is running. Driving for two days, no problem. Today I drove on the highway and its happened again, after 3-4 stall car is running smoothly again.
I have OBD reader with me, no codes, no stored codes...nothing. No battery failure as the clock and radio didn't reset. Drove around the bumpy street for 30 minutes, nothing as I thought some bad relay.
What I should try next? (HV for spark plugs, fuel pump is running smoothly and has pressure, dirty injection?)
Every time i stop for gas..my 01 santa fe is hard to start..it would take 4 to 5 start before she goes, then i have to keep the rpm up, bring her to idle..after that shes ok, till the next fill up.. the only way around this is to keep her running while gassing up..while filling up she run rough idle, some time engine shuts off..then its hard to start..
View 5 RepliesI just started to have some idle problems with my 2013 Elantra GLS auto 1.8 that has 10k miles.
I went to the gas station to fill up the tank since the gas was very low (30 mile range). I filled up the tank, started the car and the engine began to stumble and idle poorly like it was about to stall. I put the car in drive and the engine stalled. I restarted the car and it ran normally.
The car will now briefly idle poorly when I'm at a stop light. The car will be at a stop light idling and running normally. Suddenly, the tach will go down to 200 rpm and then up to 1200 rpm, like it is about the stall. Then it will idle steadily and be back to normal. This has happened about three times over the past two weeks.
What may be causing this intermittent idle problem?
This car started to stall sputter. I replaced the ignition module and it worked for while then nothing at all but still cranks. I checked all of the fuses and every thing was working. What I have found and i think this was the whole problem. The wiring harness that goes from the ignition module to the crank sensor, the wires were twisted and frayed and most likely grounding out on the frame and making the computer to shut down. So far after replacing the wires it started right up. Have not had a chance to take it for a test run to re learn the computer because my brake line busted.
View 1 Replieswhen the temperature is above roughly 60 degrees, I can drive the car for a short while, even a few miles, and it will start to sputter and eventually stall. At that point the car won't start, it turns over fine, but sounds like it's not getting any gas. If I wait 15-20 minutes it starts fine and will repeat the same process. Is there some temperature sensor or something that prevents the engine from starting after it gets hot, or is it something else. The temperature gauge doesn't indicate the engine is hotter than normal. I've taken it to my car shop twice and they haven't found anything. 1991 mercedes e300...
View 3 RepliesOk, i have a 2006 elantra with traction control steering (TCS). Brake master cylinder went bad so i replaced that. Now the brakes occasionally start grinding when i'm driving slowly and turning (usually happens when turning into a parking spot). When I jam the brakes down they usually catch. Sometimes the ABS and TCS lights will come on after this happens.
Another problem i've had is that is not connected to the braking is that the ABS and TCS lights will come on and the car will not shift and this is going like 55 - 60 mph. I've found that if i throw the car in neutral, cut it off and back on that everything is fine. This is my first hyundai and first car with TCS. I bout this car used with 75000 miles and have only had it about 3 months.
My GF has a 2002 Elantra, and recently, she's had a remote start kit put in her car. Previously, though, we were moving something in/out of her car and broke the shift knob and the rod became bent, so we had to bend the rod back to be able to put the car back into park. (The car is an auto).
Recently, she's had a couple rough/no starts from her car. There have been a few times where she would come over to my house and the car would not restart soon after she turns off the ignition. However, the car will start rough about 3 hours later and run perfectly fine once it cranks. This doesn't happen often, but enough to be troublesome.
The problem with this though is the fact that sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't, and it runs PERFECTLY fine. The lights are not dimming, the battery is not dying, the car has not required to be jumped. While having these problems we drove the car around for about 5-6 hours and it was perfectly fine. Her dad thinks it's the alternator, but the battery hasn't been losing any charge and the battery hasn't been dying. There has been one time where her father moved the shifter up and down and put it back into park and the car started just fine. Could this be related to the shifter, and how the car isn't reading that's it's fully in park to relay ignition? Her dad said he tested the alternator and it was "bad," but like I said, if the alternator was bad, her battery would be losing charge, and that is definitely not the case.
Its a 2003 f-350 6.0 started out just stalling out throw it in N it would fire right back up then started to sputter now I have a no start doesn't even try to start no smoke on crank. all of this between -3 and 5 degrees outside. According to my scan gauge ipr is 14.8, have ficm sync, ficm main is between 47 and 48 cranking, builds 0 icp irp duty cycle doesn't go up either. Pretty sure my icp is bad leaks oil though the sensor and pig tail is covered in oil. Truck has 197000 miles hpop, injectors, and ficm changed around 165000 oil cooler and blue spring at 1800000...
View 13 RepliesOccasionally, on hot days, I go out to the car for lunch and it doesn't want to start. Crank it for like 5 seconds, let it sit, then crank it again and it will "sputter" and kick in. No CELs, no errors that I can find with VCDS.
My door switch is not the problem (the MFD shows the open door, and I am hearing the fuel pump prime).
I do seem to notice it more if my gas tank is less than half full, possibly needs to be lower than that (around a quarter).
Once it's running, it runs fine. I put in new plugs about 5k ago. Car has just over 50,000 miles on it.
It seems like lack of fuel delivery, but I'm not sure why. When the pump primes, could it just pushing vapor up the lines rather than actual fuel? (How would this even happen?) How often is the fuel filter supposed to be replaced?
One other thing to note - once or twice when it was VERY cold (sub zero F), the gas gauge got wonky like something was wrong with my sending unit. It read zero when it had read 1/2 earlier in the day. Haven't had any other issues with it that I can remember. Are the sending unit and pump one piece on this car, perhaps mine just needs to be replaced? (Don't have the Bentley handy right now to check.)